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London, friblijktd by Samutl Leigh, id Strand. 



THE 

BELGIAN TRAVELLER, 

OR 

Compute (Kuttte 

THROUGH 

THE UNITED NETHERLANDS, 

CONTAINING 

A FULL DESCRIPTION OF EVERY TOWN; ITS OBJECTS OF 
CURIOSITY, MANUFACTURES, COMMERCE, AND INNS J THE MODE 
OF CONVEYANCE FROM PLACE TO PLACE; AND A COMPLETE 
ITINERARY OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY. 

To which is prefixed, 
A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE 

HISTORY, CONSTITUTION, AND RELIGION, OF THE NETHERLANDS; 
THE GENERAL APPEARANCE, PRODUCTIONS, AND 
COMMERCE OF THE COUNTRY ; 

AND 

THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS. 



BY EDMUND BOYCE. 



Jfourtf) BJtu'on : 

Considerably enlarged and improved ; tvith an accurate Map 
of the Netherlands. 



LONDON : 
PRINTED FOR SAMUEL LEIGH, 18, STRAND; 

By W. Clctves, Northumberland-court. 



1819. 



15 -2938 



k 

% PREFACE 

TO THE FIRST EDITION. 



If the kingdom of the United Netherlands 
does not boast so many natural beauties as some 
other countries, it nevertheless will not yield 
to any in the interest which its early history and 
present character inspire. When the rest of 
Europe groaned under an iron despotism, and 
was involved in comparative ignorance and 
barbarism, the court of the Counts of Flanders 
was the chosen residence of liberty, civili- 
zation, and literature ; and when the barks of 
other nations scarcely dared to venture beyond 
the sight of land, the ships of the Flemish 
merchants traversed every sea, and Antwerp 
and Bruges monopolized the commerce and 
the wealth of Northern Europe. 

The noble and the successful struggle which 
the Dutch maintained against their Spanish 
oppressors, and the prominent part which so 
small a republic bore for many ages in the 
politics of Europe, will give to Holland a sacred 
a 2 



IT 



PREFACE. 



and venerable character in the estimation of 
the literary and patriotic traveller. 

In no country will the tourist be presented 
with so complete and wonderful a triumph of 
human industry over the apparently insuper- 
able obstacles of nature. Holland is fairly 
wrested from the empire of the sea. The 
power which can truly, and in its full extent, 
be attributed to divinity alone, has been here 
exerted by mortal energy ; and the inhabitants 
of the northern provinces have dared to say, 
and have said with effect to the raging ocean, 
u Hitherto shalt thou go and no farther, and 
" here shall thy proud waves be stayed." A 
strangely mingled feeling of admiration, plea- 
sure, and fear pervades the mind of the spec- 
tator, when he walks at the foot of some of 
the immense dykes, and hears on the other 
side, and only a few feet from him, the surges 
dashing above his head ; and thinks that on 
the stability of this embankment, depends the 
existence of many a flourishing town and some 
hundred thousand souls. 

In the southern provinces the traveller will 
witness the triumphs of human industry in a 
less imposing but not less pleasing point 01 
view. He will here be presented with the 
absolute perfection of agriculture. The fer- 
tility of a soil naturally poor, the luxuriance, 
the productiveness, the uninterrupted sue- 



PREFACE. 



cession of crops, are unparalleled in the agri- 
cultural history of the world. 

The kingdom of the Netherlands is not 
however, destitute of the real beauties of 
nature. The voyage up the Meuse, from 
Maestricht to Namur,is only excelled by some 
parts of the scenery of the Rhine ; and the 
hills of Luxemburg exhibit all the wild and 
romantic views of Switzerland on a smaller 
scale. 

The author will not dwell on the tempta- 
tions which many parts of Belgium, and es- 
pecially the vicinity of Brussels, offer to in- 
duce families possesed of a moderate com- 
petence to take up their temporary or constant 
residence there. He will not insist on the 
salubrity of the air, the beauty of the scenery, 
the pleasantness of the society, and the cheap- 
ness of the provisions, because he is too much 
an Englishman not to feel that, except in the 
last particular, no country can vie with his own 
native land. He laments the mania for emi- 
gration which now seems to rage ; and he is 
thoroughly convinced that if an Englishman is 
dissatisfied with the constitution and the 
society of Britain, he will in vain seek for 
happiness in any other region. 

The author has nevertheless laboured to 
do justice to the real merits of a country which 
he has traversed with pleasure, and which he 
a 3 



vi 



PREFACE. 



now endeavours to describe ; and he is con- 
strained to acknowledge that it possesses every 
requisite to interest and delight the tourist, and 
sometimes to tempt him to loiter awhile from 
the land of his nativity. 

Recent events have given to the Nether- 
lands a deeper and a warmer interest in the 
estimation of the English traveller. The un- 
rivalled skill of the British general, and the 
unconquerable valour of the British soldier, 
were eminently displayed in the battle of 
Waterloo. That engagement, whether we 
consider the sanguinary obstinacy with which 
it was contested, the utter rout of the enemy, 
or its glorious and decisive results, is un- 
equalled in the military annals of Europe. 
The fields of Waterloo will in every future age 
be reckoned a kind of classic ground by the 
British tourist. 

The reader w ill find an accurate description 
of the scene of this memorable conflict, and the 
work is enriched by a correct and valuable map. 

It has been the earnest wish of the author 
to render the present volume what it professes 
to be, — -a complete guide through the kingdom 
of the United Netherlands. 

In addition to extensive and careful personal 
observation, he as availed himself of every 
authentic source of intelligence, and grate- 
fully acknowledges considerable obligation to 



PREFACE. 



vii 



Mr. Syphorien's " Voyage Historique et Pit- 
toresque dans les Pays Bas," and the " Itine- 
raire Complet deTEmpire Frangois." 

On the real merits of his work he leaves, 
with some anxiety, the liberal and discerning 
to decide ; but he does flatter himself, that, 
it will not add another to the numerous 
and flagrant instances of book-making, by 
which the public is so often deluded, and the 
literary character of the age so much disgraced. 

The author has first given a concise history 
of the Netherlands, their constitution, religion^ 
commerce, productions, character, and man- 
ners, that the tourist may be enabled to form 
some general and correct idea of the people 
and country which he intends to visit. He 
then conducts his reader, by the most prac- 
ticable and pleasant routes, through the various 
provinces of the kingdom, noticing every ob- 
ject of curiosity, and even the most inconsider- 
able towns. 

If sometimes, and especially in his progress 
through Belgium, he seems to be too minute, 
and even tedious in his enumeration of the 
places through and near which the road passes, 
his apology is this, that he wished to accom- 
pany and to guide the traveller through almost 
every step of his tour, and to render his book 
a constant and necessary compagnon du voyage. 

Every traveller has experienced how much 



Vlll 



PREFACE. 



more pleasantly he pursues his course, when 
he is acquainted with even the names of the 
villages through which he passes, or which 
are seen on either side. His attention is then 
continual!}* kept alive, he knows what objects 
he is to expect, and he feels himself no longer 
a stranger in a foreign country. No map 
could supply the information which is here 
given. No map extant contains one-fourth of 
the names. 

The author had two classes of readers to 
please. In his history of the country, and the 
manners and customs of the inhabitants, and 
his description of the principal towns, he hopes 
that he may interest the general reader ; and 
for the minuteness of his Itinerary, however 
dull it may appear to others, he expects the 
cordial thanks of the actual traveller. 

The account of the various modes of tra- 
velling, the necessary cautions on the road, 
the principal inns at each town, the time at 
which the different stages and vessels start, 
the productions, manufactures, and commerce, 
of every place, and the complete table of coins, 
are important features of the work. 

Some inaccuracies will doubtless be found. 
The author does not profess to have visited 
every town ; and where his own observation 
failed, he had to compare the different, and 
sometimes contradictory accounts of other 



PREFACE. 



m 



travellers. But on the general correctness of 
the work, the reader may place the most im- 
plicit reliance. The notice of any omission 
or mis-statement will be thankfully received, 
addressed to the publisher. No. 18, Strand, 



ADVERTISEMENT 



TO 

THE THIRD EDITION. 

Grateful for the very kind reception which 
the first edition of the " Belgian Traveller" 
has experienced, the author felt it to be his 
duty again to visit the country which he de- 
scribed. His former routes have all been re- 
traced; fresh scenes have been explored; and 
new and interesting and accurate sources of 
information have been opened to him. The 
work has, therefore, undergone a complete re- 
vision. It has been considerably augmented, 
and almost re-written ; and the author flatters 
himself that it will be found a complete guide 
through the kingdom of the United Nether- 
lands. 

March, 1818. 



CONTENTS. 

Page.. 

Boundaries, Extent, and Climate of the Netherlands . . 1 

History of the Netherlands 2 

Religion of the Netherlands 26 

Constitution and Government of the Netherlands .... 30 

Manners and Customs 39 

Natural Productions and Agriculture 60 

Commerce . . 67 

Dykes, Canals, and Rivers 72 

Coins of Belgium and France . . . 81, 82, 83 

Directions to the Traveller • 84 

Voyage to the Netherlands. ....... 87 

Arrival at Helvoetsluys 89 

Dutch Inns 92 

Route from Helvoetsluys to Amsterdam. 94 

Mode of Travelling in Holland 101 

Islands of Zealand .110 

Rotterdam to Amsterdam 115 

Route from Rotterdam to Amsterdam through Gouda. 157 

• from Amsterdam to the Helder 159 

Voyage from the Helder to Amsterdam. 163 

Visit to Naarden . ... 167 

Route from Amsterdam to Utrecht » • » . . 168 



CONTENTS. 



Route from Utrecht to Groningen 171 

m .i from Groningen to Arnheim. . 183 

Voyage down the Rhine and Leek from Arnheim to Rot- 
terdam 190 

Voyage np the Waal from Rotterdam to Nimeguen. ... 193 

Route from Nimeguen to Brussels 199 

from Brussels to Maestricht 233 

i i from Maestricht to Ruremonde 243 

from Maestricht through Aix-la-Chapelle to Liege 245 

from Liege to Mons 260 

■ - from Liege to Luxemburg. . . < 272 

■ ■ ■ ■ from Luxemburg to Namur. 280 

from Mons to Brussels. 285 

from Brussels to Ostend 287 

— — from Mons to Ostend 308 

— — from Paris to Brussels. 3l£ 



PART L 

GENERAL DESCRIPTION of the NETHERLANDS. 



CHAP. I, 

The Boundaries, Extent, and Climate of the 
Netherlands. 

THE kingdom of the Netherlands, containing 
" the Old United Provinces, and the former 
u Belgic Provinces, together with the Grand 
* Duchy of Luxemburg/' extends from 49* 20' 
to 53° 30' north latitude, and from 2° 30' to 7° 0' 
east longitude. It is about 270 miles in length, 
and 180 in breadth, containing 17,200 square 
miles, and 4,600,000 inhabitants. 

Belgium contains 252 inhabitants on every 
square mile, and Holland no less than 274. 

The Netherlands are bounded on the north and 
west by the north sea, and the German ocean ; 
on the south by France, and on the east by 
Prussia and Hanover. 

Holland may be considered as little more than 
a large marsh drained by human industry. This, 
with its proximity to the sea, renders its' climate 
cold and damp. The climate of the Netherlands 
is more genial, yet too chilly and humid. 

B 



3 



HISTORY OF 



Holland presents a perfectly level plain, inter- 
sected by innumerable rivers and canals. Not a 
mountain is to be seen in the whole of the northern 
provinces, and the only inequalities of the ground 
consist of the diminutive sand-hills on the coast, 
and some gentle undulations of hillock and dale, 
in the province of Utrecht, and on the borders of 
Prussia. 

The surface of Belgium is likewise generally 
level, except towards the east, and particularly 
in the duchy of Luxemburgh, where are some 
inequalities which perhaps deserve the name of 
hills, but can seldom be considered as mountains. 
In picturesque and romantic scenery, however, 
these districts will scarcely yield to the wildest 
and most mountainous region of Europe. 

The soil of Holland, rich with alluvial remains, 
is admirably suited for pasturage. The soil of 
the Netherlands is a rich sandy loam, sometimes 
interspersed with clay, but oftener with unmixed 
sand. 



CHAP. II. 

History of the Netherlands. 

The early history of the Netherlands is enve- 
loped in complete obscurity, and we can trace 
little with certainty before the time of Julius 
Cresar. When that conqueror invaded Gaul, 
this country was inhabited by various warlike tribes. 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



s- 



The Menapii, the Tungri, the Nervii, and the 
Morini, possessed Belgium. Holland and the 
northern provinces were peopled by the Batavi. 
The original population was doubtless Celtic, but 
the Scythians or Goths, from the inhospitable 
regions of northern Asia, had gradually expelled 
the Celts towards the west, and ' had seized on 
almost the whole of Germany and Gaul. The 
tribes, which on the arrival of Caesar inhabited 
the provinces of the Netherlands, were different 
families of the Belgae. 

In the course of ; two campaigns, the Romans 
had overrun the whole of Gaul to the frontiers of 
Belgium. Caesar had profited by the weakness 
and dissensions of the various tribes, and, attack- 
ing them separately, had found them an easy 
conquest. But the Belgae, learning wisdom from 
the misfortunes of others, formed a solemn and 
powerful confederacy to defend themselves from 
the wanton and unprovoked attack of lawless am- 
bition. 

On the borders of the Sambre, not far from 
Namur, they made their last stand for the inde- 
pendence of their country. The Roman ap- 
proached with an army more numerous than 
he had commanded in any former period of 
the campaign, and strengthened by those who 
should have fought in a better cause. He en- 
camped on the banks of the river. The Belgae, 
eager to chase the invader from their land, passed 
the Sambre in the dead of the night, unexpectedly 
attacked the intrenchments of Caesar, and pene- 
trated into the very heart of his camp. The 
b 2 



4 



HISTORY OF 



Romans were thrown into momentary confusion, 
and the auxiliary horse fled to Treves, bearing the 
report that their army had been defeated and cut 
to pieces. But the Belgae had to contend with the 
star of Caesar, and the best disciplined troops in 
the world. The irresistible phalanxes of the 
legions were soon formed, and led against them. 
In vain they opposed their osier shields to the im- 
penetrable armour of the invaders. In vain they 
fought with all the courage which patriotism could 
inspire, and all the fury of despair. The fortune 
of the Romans prevailed, and, out of more than 
60,000 warriors who rushed on to the attack, only 
500 survived. 

The Batavi, who had not joined the confede- 
racy, were alarmed, and adopted a prudent, if 
not a patriotic plan. They immediately despatched 
ambassadors to Caesar, tendering, not exactly 
their submission, but their alliance, and offering 
to assist him with a considerable body of troops 
in the prosecution of his conquests. The proposal 
was gladly accepted, and this tribe alone became 
the ally of the Romans, without a previous strug- 
gle for their liberty. 

The services which they rendered Caesar, and 
the honourable mention that for some centuries 
is made of them by the Roman historians, prove 
that they were not actuated by cowardice, though 
we should have been better pleased to have seen 
them joining the ranks of the brave and virtuous, 
though unsuccessful defenders of their country. 

Tacitus gives a long account of them, and of 
their peculiar manners and customs, which the 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



limits of my work will not permit me to quote. 
He relates one circumstance at which the modem 
traveller will smile, that the head-dress of the 
Batavian women was so becoming, that it was uni- 
versally imitated by the polished and fastidious 
dames of Rome. The tourist of the present day, 
will scarcely expect the costume of the descend- 
ants of the Batavians to be fashionable either at 
London or at Paris. 

The assistance of the Batavi was of such emi- 
nent use to Caesar in his contest with Pompey, 
and so soon did they rival their masters in disci- 
pline and bravery that Augustus chose them for 
his bodyguard. On the other hand, the inha- 
bitants of Holland were under considerable obliga- 
tions to the Romans. Claudius Drusus, in the 
year A. C. 10, began the noble canal from Zut- 
phen to the Yssel, which yet bears his name. It 
is likewise said, that he elevated the first bank 
against the encroachment of the sea, and thus may 
be considered as the founder of those immense 
dykes which are justly the pride of the Nether- 
lands, and the admiration of the world. 

The History of the Low Countries now affords, 
for many centuries, little worthy of notice. Under 
the reign of Vitellius, the Batavi attempted to throw 
off the Roman yoke. Their first efforts were 
crowned with success. They defeated and sunk 
the Roman fleet on the Rhine, and repulsed the 
land-forces which were sent against them: but 
they were unable long to withstand the overwhelm- 
ing power of an empire then almost universal. 
, B 3 



I 



HISTORY OF 



Animated by the energy of despair, they burned 
their principal city (Nimeguen) and broke down 
the dyke of Drusus ; but at length, finding all 
resistance useless, they once more submitted to 
wear the chain. 

About the end of the second century, nume- 
rous hordes of Saxons broke in upon them, and 
expelled or destroyed most of the Batavi, and the 
other Belgas. In the 7th century, the Frisians, 
the next adjacent people in the north, overran 
the Netherlands, and extended themselves as far 
as the Scheldt. These were in their turn subdued 
by the Franks under Charles M artel, in the 8th 
century, so that the present Belgians may be con- 
sidered as the mingled descendants of the Belgae, 
the Frisians, and the Franks. 

The Netherlands had long been divided into 
various provinces, belonging to different families* 
and governed by different constitutions. These 
petty sovereigns began now to be known by the 
names of Dukes, Marquises, and Counts. Pepin, 
the first duke of Brabant, and founder of the 
Carlovingian race of kings, held his court at 
Landen, and died in 647. The ruins of his pa- 
lace are yet to be traced. 

The earldoms of Flanders, Hainault, and Hol- 
land were successively established, and often 
exercised considerable influence on the affairs of 
Europe. Under the counts of Flanders, the 
southern provinces attained an eminence of splen- 
dour and power, of which few traces now remain. 
Philip the Good, Count of Flanders, displayed at 



I 



THE NETHERLANDS. 7 

Bruges a magnificence which not many sovereigns 
could rival, and possessed a power which none of 
them dared to provoke. 

The princes among whom the Low Countries 
were divided, were engaged in perpetual wars with 
the neighbouring potentates, and with each other. 
In these contests their personal and hereditary 
revenues were frequently exhausted, and they were 
compelled to have recourse to the benevolence of 
their subjects. The people, feeling their power, 
judiciously refused the requisite supplies, except 
on certain conditions favourable to their liberty ; 
and they gradually extorted from the monarch so 
many concessions, that the provinces partook 
more of the nature of republics, than of regal 
governments. 

The supreme authority was nominally lodged 
in the person of the magistrate, but actually in 
the assembly of the representatives of the people. 
This assembly met whenever the members deemed 
it expedient, independent of, or even contrary to 
the pleasure of the sovereign. Without the con- 
currence of this assembly no war could be under- 
taken, no taxes could be imposed, no new laws 
enacted; and no prince, although the government 
was hereditary, was allowed to assume the sceptre 
until he had solemnly sworn to observe and main- 
tain the fundamental laws of the country. 

In this situation the provinces of the Netherlands 
long remained ; yet notwithstanding they gradually 
increased in power, in commerce, and in civiliza- 
tion, nothing occurs for many ages sufficiently 
distinct and important to be related in the slight 



s 



HISTORY OF 



sketch to which I am now limited, At length, 
by intermarriages, by conquest, arid by the 
failure of the male line in some of the reigning 
families, they all fell under the dominion of the 
house of Burgundy, about the middle of the 15th 
century. After this event, the provinces con- 
tinued to enjoy their ancient privileges, and to be 
governed according to their own laws. 

Under the administration of the princes of Bur- 
gundy, and even long before, trade and manu- 
factures flourished in the Netherlands more than 
in any other European state. No city, except 
Venice, possessed such extensive traffic as Ant- 
werp. It was the great mart of the commerce of 
the world. It contained 200,000 inhabitants, 
Bruges nearly as many, and Ghent boasted a more 
numerous population than the metropolis of France. 
More than 100,000 artificers were employed there 
in the woollen manufacture, long before the art 
was known to the English. 

It is interesting and important to inquire into 
the cause of this unequalled prosperity. The 
Netherlands were undoubtedly much indebted to 
their situation, and the nature of the country. 
They lay in the centre of Europe, commanding 
the entrance and navigation of several of the great 
rivers of Germany, and they were almost every 
where intersected by these rivers, or by canals, 
or branches of the sea, admirably fitting them 
for foreign and inland trade. But these advan- 
tages would never have enabled the Flemings to 
leave the other European nations so far behind 
them, if the form of their government had not 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



9 



been peculiarly favourable to their exertions. The 
greatest advantages which nature affords for im- 
provement in commerce or in the arts of life* will 
be rendered useless by an injudicious or tyrannical 
exercise of the civil power. When the person is 
insecure, or the fruits of many a long year's 
economy and industry may be seized by the ra<- 
pacious hands of a despotic prince, it is folly 
to expect that men will apply themselves 
with vigour to commercial pursuits. Happily 
for the inhabitants of the Low Countries, the 
small extent of the different principalities, and the 
constant necessities of their princes, rendered it 
both impolitic and impossible for the sovereign to 
execute any plan of tyranny against the people. 
The princes were perfectly aware of this> and, 
with a good grace, sanctioned those fundamental 
laws, which indeed somewhat abridged their pre- 
rogative, but greatly augmented their power and 
resources, by means of the prosperity which their 
moderate government enabled their subjects to 
attain. In no country in the world were the; sove- 
reigns so powerful in proportion to the extent of 
their territory : in no country in the world did 
the people exhibit such ardent attachment to the 
prince, or cheerfully submit to greater sacrifices. 

At the death of Charles the Bold, in 1477, the 
government of the Netherlands descended to his 
daughter Mary, while the duchy of Burgundy 
became united to the crown of France. Mary, 
or rather her evil counsellors who took advan- 
tage of her youth and inexperience, shewed too 
evident a disposition to encroach on the liberties 



10 



HISTORY OF 



of the Flemings ; and being detected in a corres- 
pondence with her father to effect this purpose, 
two of her ministers were impeached by the 
States-General, convicted of treason against their 
country, and condemned to die. In vain the 
princess resorted to entreaties and threatenings to 
save them from death : in vain, she even rushed 
upon the scaffold, and, dissolved in tears, suppli- 
cated their pardon : — the executioner inflicted the 
fatal blow in her very presence. 

In the autumn of the same year she married 
Maximilian, son of Frederick III. emperor of 
Germany, and, by this union, the Netherlands 
passed under tlie dominion of Austria. 
. Under this new dynasty, the Flemings shewed their 
invariable determination to preserve the privileges 
which they had so long enjoyed. Maximilian 
had been educated in the belief of the divine right 
of kings, and soon shewed no equivocal symptoms 
of a wish to reduce the Belgians to the degraded 
state of his other subjects. Finding that remon- 
strances were of no avail, that foreign troops were 
fast pouring in upon them, and that Ghent had 
been pillaged and almost destroyed, they resolved 
to make one desperate effort to maintain their 
freedom. As Maximilian entered the city of Bruges 
with a numerous train of attendants, the populace 
surrounded him in the market-place, seized upon 
his person, hurried him to the castle, and kept 
him prisoner for many months. The intercession 
and the menaces of the Pope and the Emperor were 
unavailing, nor could he obtain his release, until he 
had submitted to the humiliating condition of taking 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



11 



a solemn oath, that he would respect the privileges 
and the liberties of the Belgians. 

Many years now passed with the marked 
desire of despotic power, and the frequent artful 
attempt at encroachment on one side, and watchful 
jealousy and steady resistance on the other, until 
Charles V., the grandson of Maximilian, assumed 
the reins of administration. He perhaps might 
easily have subdued them had he been inclined to 
use his power ungenerously, and his arbitrary 
temper had sufficiently appeared in his govern- 
ment of Spain and Germany; in both of which 
countries he had trampled on the dearest and 
most valuable rights of the people. But he 
was born in the Netherlands, and had passed there 
his happiest days. He loved the people, for their 
manners, less reserved and stately than those of 
the Spaniards, accorded with his habits and taste. 
He therefore restrained his love of despotic rule, 
and permitted them to enjoy unmolested the 
freedom which they so highly prized. The Flem- 
ings were grateful for his kindness. They liberally 
assisted him in the wars in which he was almost 
continually engaged, and, except the insurrection 
of the people of Ghent, no considerable disturb- 
ance happened in the Netherlands during his reign. 
The eloquent historian of Charles V. scarcely 
found one opportunity of mentioning them in all 
the busy period of that monarch's administration. 

Charles would gladly have transmitted to his 
son Philip the affection which he bore towards 
the Netherlands, and the warm attachment and 
unvaried Joyalty which they had displayed towards 



12 



HISTORY OF 



him. For this purpose, he caused him to spend 
some time in Flanders ; and when he formed the 
romantic resolution of retiring from the world, this 
constituted a prominent feature in the pathetic 
and admirable exhortation which he addressed to 
him. But Philip could not enter into his father's 
views, nor love a people whose manners were so 
different from his own. 

The protestant religion had lately been widely 
and rapidly diffused through Belgium. It had 
been imported by the French and German and 
English refugees, who had escaped from the per- 
secutions carried on against them in their native 
countries. Charles had endeavoured to extirpate 
this growing heresy. He had had recourse to the 
faggot and the sword. But when numbers of the 
most industrious and valuable of his subjects fled 
from his power ; when he saw his noblest pro- 
vinces beginning to be depopulated ; when the 
trade and commerce which distinguished his be- 
loved country were enriching other lands, he 
wisely recalled his cruel orders, and permitted 
the Flemings to worship their God as their con- 
sciences dictated. 

Philip was the child of superstition and bigotry. 
He had scarcely seated himself on the throne, ere 
he revived every inhuman edict, and commanded 
the magistrates to carry them into rigorous exe- 
cution. He was even heard to declare, that 
if executioners were wanted to give full effect to the 
bloody decrees of the inquisition, he would himself 
become one : and that he would rather be without 
subjects than reign over heretics. Every man who 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



13 



taught heretical doctrines, every man who was 
even present at a meeting of heretics, was ordered 
to be put to death by the sword, and every woman 
buried alive. A peculiar tribunal was established 
for the suppression of heresy. Persons were com- 
mitted to prison on bare suspicion. They were 
tortured on the slightest evidence. The accused 
were not confronted with their accusers. They 
were not even made acquainted with the crimes 
for which they suffered. Their possessions were 
confiscated, and their families reduced to beggary. 

To enforce this diabolical persecution, the 
country was inundated with Spanish soldiers. 
These lived at free quarters on the inhabitants, 
and committed with impunity every kind of out- 
rage. The Flemings at first offered no resistance, 
but they refused to work at the dykes, saying that 
they had rather be swallowed up by the ocean, 
than remain a prey to the terrors of the Inquisi- 
tion,and the licentiousness of the soldiery. TheStates- 
general remonstrated against these oppressive pro- 
ceedings ; but Philip, who was naturally haughty 
and unyielding,— who considered the liberties 
claimed by the Protestants in religious matters, as 
utterly incompatible with his thirst for despotic 
power, and who had taken a solemn oath to 
devote his reign to the defence of the Popish faith, 
and the extirpation of heresy, was immoveable. 

Driven to absolute despair, the people rose 
tumultuously against their oppressors in many 
places ; but being undisciplined and unarmed, they 
were easily subdued. These insurrections afforded 
Philip new pretexts to give free licence to his 
c 



14 



HISTORY OF 



bigotry and revenge. The duke of Alva was despatch- 
ed to the Netherlands with unlimited power to torture 
and destroy. He was an agent well calculated to 
execute the savage designs of his master ; and he 
entered on his execrable office with a demoniacal 
zeal. No age, sex, or condition, was spared. Many, 
who had only once been present at a protestant 
assembly, even though they declared their faith in 
the catholic religion to be firm and unshaken, were 
hanged or drowned : while those who professed 
themselves protestants were put to the rack, to 
force them to discover their associates ; they were 
then dragged by horses to the place of execution, 
their bodies committed to the flames, and their 
sufferings prolonged with ingenious cruelty. 

Many of these noble martyrs bore unshaken 
testimonies to the truth in the very extremity of 
their tortures. To prevent the effect of this good con- 
fession on the surrounding spectators, the tongues 
of some were torn out ; others had them burned 
with a glowing iron; and others were screwed 
into a machine contrived to produce the most 
excruciating pain. Wives were put to death for 
affording shelter to their husbands ; children for 
performing the like kind offices to their parents ; 
and a father was executed for allowing his son, 
who had returned from banishment, to lodge under 
his roof for a single night. During the admini- 
stration of this monster in human shape, eighteen 
thousand persons suffered by the hands of the public 
executioner. 

Resistance was ineffectual, and seldom attempted, 
for the partial insurrections which took place were 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



15 



easily suppressed, and furnished an excuse for 
more aggravated cruelty. Their only safety con- 
sisted in flight, and thousands of refugees carried 
toother countries the industry and the skill for 
which the Netherlands had, during so many ages, 
been distinguished. It is said that more than 
100,000 houses were abandoned. The population 
of the principal cities was evidently thinner, 
while many of the smaller towns were almost 
desolate. A great proportion of those who fled 
from persecution sought refuge in England, where 
they were kindly received by Elizabeth. That 
princess was well rewarded by the introduction 
into her kingdom of many branches of manufac- 
ture with which her people had before been un- 
acquainted. From this period we may date the 
origin and rapid progress of English manufacture. 

Many of these exiles could not, however, forget 
the land which gave them birth, and which was 
endeared to them by a thousand ties. Under the 
Prince of Orange, and assisted by some auxiliary 
troops from the German protestant princes, they 
determined on one noble effort to deliver their 
country; but they were soon defeated and dis- 
persed by the duke of Alva. 

The cause of freedom and humanity now seemed 
desperate. All attempt at insurrection had ceased. 
They who were best capable of defending their 
country's liberties had either perished on the scaf- 
fold, or submitted to voluntary banishment ; and 
those who remained, brooded over their miseries 
in silent despair : when Alva, adding absurdity 
and folly to oppression and tyranny, roused the 
c 2 



16 



HISTORY OF 



dormant spirit of resistance, and excited a universal 
rebellion, which gave employment to the arms of 
Spain during half a century, exhausted the vigour, 
and ruined the reputation of that monarchy, and 
terminated in the acknowledged freedom and 
independence of the United Provinces. 

The people of the Low Countries had never 
been accustomed to be taxed by their princes. 
The power of imposing taxes belonged to the 
assembly of the states ; and when the prince had 
occasion for money, he had, from the earliest 
times, petitioned the states for a supply ; which 
they either granted or refused as they were satis- 
fied or displeased with the reasons for demanding 
it. But Alva, without any previous application 
to the assembly, and of his own simple authority, 
now proceeded to levy taxes more oppressive than 
the people could have borne in their most flourish- 
ing condition ; and he enforced the payment of 
them with a rigour absolutely unexampled. This 
caused general discontent, spirited remonstrances, 
and at length universal insurrection. 

It may appear surprising that the imposition of 
taxes, however burdensome, should have wrought 
more powerfully on their minds than the cruel 
persecutions which had been exercised with such 
unrelenting fury on account of religion. But 
the reason is obvious. The persecutions extended 
only to a certain number of individuals, whereas 
the taxes affected all alike, and must have 
proved the source of universal and perpetual op- 
pression ; and perhaps the peculiar love of money, 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



17 



for which the Dutch have, with some truth, been 
characterized, was not without its influence. 

It is not my intention, nor will the limits of the 
present chapter permit me to enter into the details 
of the sanguinary and ferocious war which now 
commenced. The Flemings again called to their 
assistance, William, Prince of Orange, known 
afterwards by the name of William I. He was the 
representative of the ancient and illustrious family 
of Nassau,, in Germany, and inherited several rich 
possessions in the Netherlands. Never was any 
person better qualified for the arduous task of 
delivering an injured people from the yoke of 
their oppressors. To vigilance, application, and 
sagacity, he united a peculiar dexterity in govern- 
ing the inclinations of men, and conciliating and 
preserving their affections. He proved himself, 
■what the Hollanders even of the present day fondly 
call him, the father of his country, and the guar- 
dian of its liberty and laws. He generously sacrificed 
his interest, his ease, and his safety, to the public 
good ; and, after an arduous contest, in which he 
experienced alternate reverses and success, and in 
which he did more than was ever done before in 
such unfavourable circumstances by any patriot, 
he fixed on firm foundations the independence and 
the prosperity of Holland. 

In 1579? he accomplished the union of Utrecht. 
The provinces of Holland ; Zealand,Utrecht,Guelder- 
land, Friesland, Brabant, and Flanders, entered into 
a solemn confederacy to support each other in the 
assertion of their civil and religious liberties. 
Brabant and Flanders, overrun by the Spanish 
c 3 



18 



HISTORY OF 



troops, torn by religious feuds, and weakened by 
their inveterate bigotry, again submitted to wear * 
their chains. The northern provinces obstinately 
maintained the struggle, and in 1609 compelled 
the Spaniards to acknowledge their independence. 

From this time the country was known by the 
two grand divisions of Belgium, or the Netherlands, 
and Holland. Belgium remained under the go- 
vernment of Spain, and pitiable indeed was the 
situation of those ill-fated provinces. By emigra- 
tion, by the hand of the executioner, and by the 
sword, a great part of the country was nearly depo- 
pulated : and only a few of those who remained 
had either seed to sow, or horses and cattle to cul- 
tivate their grounds. Multitudes innumerable died 
of want, and of those pestilential diseases which 
want and unwholesome nourishment produce. 
In Antwerp, Brussels, and other places, many 
persons of the better ranks in life, after selling all 
their furniture and effects to purchase food, were 
reduced to beg openly in the streets. In Brabant 
and in Flanders, several villages were entirely 
deserted, and from the solitude and desolation 
which prevailed, wolves and other beasts of prey 
so rapidly multiplied, that more than 100 persons 
were devoured by these ferocious animals within 
two miles of Ghent, in the best and most cultivated 
region of the Netherlands. 

The ten provinces under the milder administra- 
tion that succeeded, gradually recruited their 
population, and their wealth ; but the principal 
part of their trade was irrecoverably fled. Am- 
4lerdam had monopolized all the trade of Antwerp 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



19 



and Bruges \ and although these countries are in- 
teresting to the traveller, and have again, to a 
great degree, become the abode of commerce, 
literature and the arts, they are but the shadow 
ofwhatfthey were. 

The Netherlands remained under the govern- 
ment of Spain, until the memorable victory of 
Kamillies, in 1706, when Brussels, and a great 
part of the provinces, acknowledged Charles VI., 
afterwards Emperor of Germany, for their sove- 
reign. The Austrians retained possession of them 
until the war of 1741, when the French overran 
and reduced them ; but, at the interference of Hol- 
land and England, restored the greater part in the 
year 1748. 

The house of Austria remained in undisturbed 
possession until 1788, when the Emperor assumed 
prerogatives more extensive than his subjects were 
disposed to allow, and the Flemings rebelled against 
his authority. The rigorous, or rather the bar- 
barous measures to which Joseph had recourse 
in order to quell the insurrection, shocked and 
exasperated even the most moderate. The whole 
population flew to arms, and ere the close of the 
year, the patriots were masters of every place in 
the Netherlands, except Antwerp and Luxemburg. 
Had the Emperor lived a few months longer, the 
Low Countries would have been for ever lost to 
the House of Austria. At this critical period he 
died : and Leopold, whose disposition was known 
to be mild and benevolent, succeeding, and 
judiciously commencing his reign with the most 
gentle and conciliatory measures, the Flemings 
c 



20 



HISTORY OF 



were again induced to submit to the Austrian 
government, at the close of the year 1790. 

In 1792, the French invaded Belgium, under 
General Dumourier, and overran it with an incre- 
dible rapidity. In 1793, it was almost entirely 
re-conquered by the Austrians, but retaken by the 
French in 1794. It was then incorporated with 
the French Republic, and in 1797 the Emperor 
formally renounced all claim to it. In this situa- 
tion it remained until.the glorious campaign of 1813, 
when it was again separated from France, and, by 
the congress of Vienna^ annexed to Holland, and 
designated by the title of the Kingdom of the 
Netherlands. 

The northern states, which after the Union at 
Utrecht assumed the name of the United Provinces, 
or were better known by the title of Holland, 
had no sooner thrown off the yoke, than they 
increased more rapidly than their southern neigh- 
bours declined in commerce, wealth, and popu- 
lation. Every house was occupied ; new streets 
and new towns were built ; and the people grew 
richer every day, notwithstanding the perpetual 
burden of an expensive war. A multitude of mer- 
chants flocked from Brabant and Flanders, to Hol- 
land and Zealand. The calamities of the ten sub- 
jugated states increased the emigration, until Hol- 
land became the seat of the greatest part of that in- 
dustry and prosperity which for ages pasf had distin- 
guished the Netherlands above the rest of Europe, 

Notwithstanding the contracted limits of the ter- 
ritories of the Dutch, they began to bear a promi- 
nent part in the politics of the continent. Their 



THE NETHERLANDS. 21 



land-forces were sufficient to repress the insults of 
their neighbours, and their navy rivalled that of 
England. They despatched many adventurers to 
the east, and took possession of several tracts of 
country in the Indies, which excited the displea- 
sure of the English, and gave them just cause of 
fear. 

The faithful historian is compelled to narrate, 
that in their eagerness to establish foreign colonies, 
and to make the most of their commercial advan- 
tages, they were guilty of atrocities disgraceful to 
human nature. The man whose bosom, while he 
remained in Europe, appeared to glow with an 
unextinguishable love of freedom, was, when 
abroad, the tyrant and the scourge of those who 
fell under his power. 

For some years the Hollanders retained a grateful 
recollection of the assistance afforded them by Eng- 
land in their struggle for independence. But interest 
and gratitude were soon opposed. The English 
and the Dutch divided the commerce of the world. 
They became jealous of each other ; and each 
seemed to think that the greatness of the one was 
incompatible with the prosperity of his rival. 

The ambassadors of Cromwell had received 
some trifling or pretended insult at the Hague. 
Both nations were too proud, or rather too disposed 
to quarrel, to make the slightest concession. The 
war of 1651 commenced) and so rapid had been 
the increase of the power of the Dutch, and so 
nearly balanced was the strength of the belligerents, 
that in the course of one year seven great battles 
were fought, with variable and almost equal sue- 



22 



HISTORY OF 



cess. The genius of Britain ultimately prevail- 
ed, and the Dutch, routed in repeated engage- 
ments, and crippled in their commerce, sued for 
peace. 

These commercial rivals were, however, far from 
being sincerely reconciled, and 12 years afterwards 
a second war commenced on grounds as frivolous 
as the former. At one period of this contest, Ad- 
miral de Ruyter, with a broom at his mast-head, 
swept the Channel; and advancing up the Thames 
as far as Chatham, destroyed every thing that fell 
in his way : but the English soon regained their 
wonted superiority, and peace was concluded on 
equitable terms. 

The power of the Dutch continued to increase, 
and from 1702 to 1712, they were principals in 
the grand confederacy against the insatiable 
ambition of Louis XIV. 

Many years may now be passed over, as they 
afford little that will be interesting to my readers. 
When Great Britain was engaged in the contest 
with America, the Stadtholder was favourable to 
the royal cause ; but he could not restrain the 
avidity of many of the merchants, who clandestinely 
supplied the Americans with prohibited warlike 
stores. This contraband trade at length became so 
notorious, that England was compelled to repress 
it by force; which led to a new war between Great 
Britain and Holland. This war was most disastrous 
to the United Provinces. Their navy was de- 
stroyed, their colonies taken, and their trade com- 
pletely ruined. 

Holland had lately been distracted by contend- 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



23 



ing factions. The Orange or government party 
was friendly to the cause of England ; but the 
pqpulace, and most of the merchants had been 
misled by the intrigues of French emissaries, 
and espoused the cause of liberty. A succession 
of disgraceful defeats excited the animosity of the 
two factions to the highest degree. The patriots 
attributed these disasters to the treachery of the 
Stadtholder ; and he reproached them with having, 
by their avarice and dishonesty, plunged their 
country into a war for which it was unprepared. 
Both parties flew to arms; and the provinces would 
have been deluged with blood, had not the King of 
Prussia suddenly marched a considerable body 
of troops into Holland, and, overawing both par- 
ties, effected an apparent reconciliation. The seeds 
of discord however yet remained. The Stadtholder, 
whose notions of government were somewhat too 
arbitrary for the people over whom he presided, was 
engaged in continual quarrels with the States. The 
Dutch were ripe for revolt ; and when the French 
revolution burst out, and spread its baneful influ- 
ence over every neighbouring country, they eagerly 
offered themselves to the fraternal embrace, and 
compelled their unfortunate sovereign to seek for 
shelter on the hospitable shores of Britain. Hol- 
land was now united to France, and formed a part 
of her enormous empire. 

The pretended patriots were much and deserv- 
edly disappointed in the benefits which they ex- 
pected to reap from a union with France. Their 
commerce, crippled before, was now reduced to 
the lowest ebb \ their children were torn from them 



24 



HISTORY OF 



by arbitrary and unceasing conscriptions, and the 
wild and unprincipled schemes of Napoleon to 
shut the continent against British manufactures, 
drove them to absolute despair. A faint gleam of 
hope dawned upon them, when (May 24, 1806,) 
Holland was declared a separate kingdom, and 
given to Louis Buonaparte, the brother of Napoleon. 
He, however, possessed the mere shadow of royalty, 
without any of its privileges. He was the mere 
slave of his brother's caprice. It is said that he 
pitied and loved his people, that he would fain 
have devoted himself to the promotion of their 
interests, and that he actually connived at many 
things inconsistent with Napoleon's views : but when 
he found that he must sanction measures which 
his soul abhorred, and which would impoverish 
and ruin, rather than benefit the people whom he 
had sworn to protect, he resigned a crown which 
he could no longer wear without dishonour (June 
30, 1810). 

Holland was now once more incorporated with 
the empire of France, and the Dutch experienced 
their full share of oppression and injury. They 
therefore hailed with joy the overthrow of the 
scourge of the world. For awhile they seemed to 
forget their characteristic apathy. The cry of 
" Orange Boven" was enthusiastically spread from 
town to town. With one simultaneous movement 
(Nov. 13, 1813,) they every where expelled the 
oppressors of their country ; while, with a dignity 
and moderation worthy of freemen, they disdained 
to wreak their vengeance on a fallen foe. The 
Stadtholder was invited to reassume his former go- 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



25 



vernment, and Holland once more looked forward 
to days of prosperity and happiness. 

Succeeding events placed the whole of Belgium 
at the disposal of the Allies, who, in the congress of 
Vienna, determined to annex it to Holland, and 
thus form a sufficient barrier against the power of 
France on that side. The 66th Article of the act 
of the congress of Vienna declares, that " the old 
United Provinces, and the former Belgic provinces, 
together with the Grand Duchy of Luxemburg, 
shall form, under the Prince of Orange-Nassau, 
the kingdom of the Netherlands." 

The Belgians, who were at first reported to be 
unfriendly to the union, and disaffected to their 
new sovereign, have shewn, by the noble share 
which they bore in the battle of Waterloo, that they 
valued the privileges conferred upon them ; while 
the heir-apparent of the reigning prince has proved 
himself worthy to rule over his newly -acquired 
territories, by shedding his blood in their defence. 
If the King of the Netherlands has the address to 
conciliate both his old and his new subjects, so 
opposite in character, in pursuits, in habits, and 
in religion, the country may regain, if not its 
wonted superiority in commerce and wealth, yet a 
very high degree of prosperity and influence ; 
unless, indeed, that power which so generously 
fostered the infant kingdom, should become jealous 
of its growing energies, and wantonly subvert 
the edifice which it has principally contributed to 
raise. 

The situation of the Netherlands is most happy. 
It is placed in the very centre of Europe. By the 

D 



26 



RELIGION OF 



sea it communicates with every distant country. 
By its numerous canals it affords every facility for 
domestic trade ; and by its rivers it commands the 
principal commerce of Germany. .Its soil is pro-_ 
ductive almost beyond belief. It is defended by the 
sea, and by rapid rivers on every side but one, 
where it is protected by an iron chain of fortresses ; 
and if the monarch be firm, yet conciliatory and. 
patriotic, and the people loyal and industrious, it 
will speedily recover from its present degradation, 
and again become the admiration of the world. 



CHAP. III. 

Religion of the Netherlands,. 

The new constitution of the Netherlands " se- 
cures to all forms of worship equal favour and 
protection/' As the reigning family is Protestant, 
it is very prudently added, " In particular, we 
guarantee to the Catholic church, its establish- 
ment, and its liberties ; and we shall not lose sight 
of the examples of wisdom and moderation which 
have been left us by our predecessors." 

The inhabitants of Holland and of Belgium dif- 
fered no less in their religious opinions, than in 
their manners and their dress. In Holland the 
tenets of Calvin principally prevailed, and the 
higher offices of the state could be filled only by 
Calvinists ; but, with this exception, every religion 
was permitted and cherished, if it did not oppose 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



£7 



the fundamental laws of the constitution. The 
liberality, the truly Christian charity which pre- 
vailed among the different sects, were delightful to 
behold ; and, to the disgrace of the Christian world 
be it spoken, were peculiar to the little territory of 
Holland. A quarrel, or even an unpleasant feel- 
ing on subjects of religious controversy, was un- 
heard, unknown. " We are citizens of Holland, 
let us agree to differ/' was the unanswerable argu- 
ment which closed every religious dispute. In no 
country were the various places of worship more 
respectably filled — in none was the appearance of 
the worshippers more becoming. This apparent 
liberality was not the consequence of religious 
indifference. It was the child of circumstances. 
Although the cruelties of the reign of Philip com- 
menced with a murderous persecution against the 
Protestants, this was not the can se of that insur- 
rection which terminated in the freedom of the 
United Provinces. The immediate cause of their 
resistance, as I have already stated, was the arbi- 
trary levying and rigorous exaction of oppressive 
taxes. This equally affected every citizen and 
all united in defence of their liberties. Protestants 
and Catholics fought side by side, and endured 
together calamities of which the annals of the 
world scarcely afford a parallel. A thousand 
opportunities occurred, to shew that the principles 
of either religion could inspire a patriotism that 
no bribes could seduce, and a fidelity that no 
sufferings could shake. The remembrance of the 
glorious contest to the successful termination of 

D 2 



28 



RELIGION OF 



which they had equally contributed, and the bene- 
fits which they had procured for each other, taught 
them mutual esteem. All their former religious 
feuds and prejudices were consigned to oblivion, 
and universal toleration, or rather unbounded 
liberty of conscience, became the Hollander's 
creed. In some remote and happier period, every 
nation will emulate their conduct. Bigotry and 
persecution will be known no more, and all 
party distinctions will be lost in the comprehensive 
and endearing name of Christian. 

The Calvinists were formerly exclusively sup- 
ported by government in the provinces of Holland. 
The ministers of every religion now receive a 
fixed salary, but the Calvinists retain the parish- 
churches, and their pastors receive a larger 
stipend than those of other sects. The presenta- 
tion of every living throughout the kingdom is in 
the gift of the king. It is true that the recom- 
mendation of the principal parishioners is usually 
attended to, but this is a mere matter of favour, 
and depends on the royal pleasure for its continu- 
ance. The higher offices of state are no longer in 
the exclusive possession of the Calvinists, but 
persons of every sect are equally eligible to 
offices of honour or emolument, whether civil or 
military. The only test required is an oath of 
allegiance to the sovereign and the state. 

The following is a tolerably accurate statement 
of the numbers of the different sects in the ancient 
provinces of Holland : — The Reformists or Cal- 
vinists have 1,260 congregations; the Catholics, 



THE NETHERLANDS. 



29 



600 ; the Jews, 103 ; the Lutherans, 46 ; the 
Remonstrants, 28 ; with an inconsiderable number 
of inferior denominations of Christians. 

In Belgium the Catholic religion prevails, and 
other sects were, until lately, almost wholly un- 
known. The liberality of the Dutch was a stranger 
even to a country so near. The Belgians were 
proverbially superstitious and bigoted. The cause 
of this is not difficult to be assigned. A spirit of 
civil and religious liberty every where prevails 
most, and burns with the purest and brightest 
flame, in the bosoms of the middle and com- 
mercial ranks of society. These have lately formed 
only a small part of the population of Belgium, or 
rather were almost annihilated. The merchants 
and manufacturers fled to the northern provinces, 
and few remained but the nobles, the ecclesiastics, 
and the poor. It requires but a slight acquaint- 
ance with history to be convinced, that ignorance 
and bigotry must form the characteristic features 
of such a people. 

It must be acknowledged that since the French 
revolution a considerable change has taken place. 
Other sects are no longer insulted and persecuted ; 
but in the unceasing processions which parade the 
Streets, and which it would be dangerous for the 
traveller, by the slightest gesture, to ridicule, and 
in the whole conduct of the Belgians, it is evi- 
dent, that bigotry and superstition yet form a 
principal part of the religion of the common 
people. 

Protestant chapels have for some years been 
tolerated in Brussels ; and it will be the pleasing 
d 3 



30 CONSTITUTION, 

duty of the new sovereign of the Netherlands, 
while he prudently takes care not to shock the 
prejudices of his southern subjects, gradually to 
inspire them with some portion of the liberality of 
their northern neighbours. 



CHAP. IV. 

The Constitution and Government of the Nether- 
lands. 

The government of the different provinces of 
the Netherlands had for many centuries, and 
through the influence of the causes which I have 
already stated (page 7)> been favourable to the 
liberty of the subject, without diminishing the 
security and splendour of the sovereign. The 
Belgians had been uniformly jealous of their rights 
and privileges, and they had strenuously main- 
tained them amidst all their vicissitudes, and 
against the most powerful monarchs. 

In 1679? the Prince of Orange formed a con- 
federacy of the states of Flanders against the tyran- 
nical oppression of Philip. This alliance was 
called the Union of Utrecht, because it was con- 
summated there. It was the origin of the present 
constitution of the Netherlands, and contained its 
fundamental laws. When the Hollanders were 
permitted to enjoy some respite from the attacks 
of the Spaniards, they resumed this act as the 



GOVERNMENT, &€• 



31 



ground-work of their plan, and digested the con- 
stitution by which their government was sa long 
administered, and the leading principles of which 
are yet retained. 

The name alone of the chief magistrate is 
changed. The Stadtholder is no longer known, 
but, agreeably to the fashion of the day, a Kino-, 
with nearly the same prerogatives, now sways the 
sceptre of government. 

The following is a sketch of the present consti- 
tution of the Netherlands. The Englishman will 
observe with pleasure how closely it is formed on 
the model of the British constitution ; and if the 
resemblance is in many respects more apparent 
than real, and the government of Belgium be not 
so favourable to the liberty of the subject, as that 
which is the Briton's proudest boast, it is at least 
as liberal as the spirit of the times could permit us 
to expect, and far 7 superior to that of most of the 
continental states. 

The northern provinces retain their former 
names and limits ; and the southern provinces are 
divided into the several districts by which they were 
anciently known. 

In every considerable town or district an electoral 
college is appointed, or certain persons are delegated 
to elect others to fill the provincial offices of state. 
The members of these colleges were originally 
selected by the king, and perhaps were fairly 
chosen from among the most opulent and best 
informed inhabitants of the town or district, although 
it cannot be denied that there was too much room 



82 



CONSTITUTION, 



for the exercise of courtly favour and undue 
preference. 

When a vacancy occurs in the college, no pub- 
lic meeting is convened to elect a new member, but 
an officer goes from house to house, and collects 
from every person who pays a sufficient quota of 
taxes, a paper signed and sealed, and containing 
the name of the candidate on whom his choice 
falls. These billets are opened by persons who 
are sworn not to divulge the names or the choice 
of the individual voters, and the candidate, whom 
they affirm to have the majority of votes, is declared 
to be the new member of the electoral college. The 
members of the college retain their situation during 
life. 

The electoral college nominates certain deputies, 
who are called " The States of the Province/' 
They are charged with the execution of the laws 
relative to religious worship, public instruction, 
and the encouragement of agriculture, commerce, 
and manufactures. They control the expenditure 
of the local administrations, and are charged with 
every thing that belongs to the interior economy of 
their province. They likewise hold their situation 
during life. 

The States of the province elect other deputies 
who form the second chamber of the " States- 
Generai.'' They are supposed to represent the 
interests of the people, and they exercise many 
of the important functions of the British House of 
Commons : but, not springing immediately from 
the people, nor being dependent on public 



GOVERNMENT, &C. 



33 



opinion, nor even dependent on those who must 
look to the favour and suffrage of the people for 
the continuance of their honours and emoluments, 
they cannot be expected really and substantially 
to represent the interests, or at all times to speak 
the wishes of the majority of the citizens. 

No new law can emanate from the second cham- 
ber. It can only deliberate on the projects of 
laws, which have been presented to it by the 
king or the council of state ; but it possesses the 
right of petitioning the council to propose any law. 
With the second chamber resides the right of levy- 
ing all taxes and imposts, but with this diminution 
of its salutary power and influence, that the 
financial budget is submitted to its consideration, 
once only in ten years. For ten years, therefore, 
the sovereign enjoys a revenue completely inde- 
pendent of the consent or control of the representa- 
tives of the people. It is easy to see what fatal use 
a monarch despotically disposed might make of 
this privilege. 

Another circumstance relating to the second 
chamber, and unfavourable to the liberty of the 
subject, is, that all the members are not elected at 
once, like the commons of England, but one third 
of the chamber is renewed every year. The whole 
number consists of only 110 deputies, and it is not 
difficult for government, with all its influence and 
patronage, annually to re-elect 36 members de- 
voted to its interests. 

Another chamber, resembling the British House 
of Lords, stands between the prince and the peo- 
ple, and professes to restrain the encroachments of 



34 



CONSTITUTION, 



either. No new law can emanate from it, and 
it has simply the power of approving or rejecting 
the project submitted to its consideration. 

The construction of this chamber is radically 
faulty, and destructive of its independence and poli- 
tical weight. The members are very properly ap- 
pointed by the king, but their number is indefinite. 
They must not be fewer than 40, nor more than 
60. An artful and wicked prince may neglect to 
rill up the vacancies, and suffer them to dwindle to 
the lowest number that the constitution will per- 
mit, that he may pour in an overwhelming force 
of sycophants to carry any despotic or hateful 
measure. 

Those whom he does appoint must not be 
young men, whose political characters may not 
have been completely developed, or in whose 
bosoms the glow 7 of patriotism may not be quite 
extinct, but persons of more than 40 years of age ; 
persons whose principles are perfectly known, and 
by whom the expectations of the prince will not be 
disappointed. 

The peerage is not hereditary, and it is only by 
a compliance w ith the wishes of the court, and a 
subserviency to all its views, that a member of 
the upper chamber of the States-general can hope 
that his honours may descend to his family. 

In another particular, and that of vast import- 
ance, the inferiority of the Belgic constitution is 
apparent. The right of petition is one of the 
greatest importance in every state that boasts of 
freedom. Judiciously, extensively, and ener- 
getically exercised, it is the terror of corruption 



GOVERNMENT, &C. 



35 



and despotism, and the safeguard of liberty. No 
minister, and no prince will dare to oppose the 
voice of the people unanimously and strongly ex- 
pressed. In the constitution of the Netherlands, 
the right of petition is recognised, but it can only 
be exercised by the individual, and in his own 
name. It cannot convey the sentiments and 
wishes of any number or body of people. This 
restriction renders the existence of the right null 
and void ; or rather, so far as it regards any gene- 
ral political purpose, it becomes a vain and de- 
lusive mockery. 

The members of each chamber are distin- 
guished by the title of " Noble and Puissant 
Seignors." The regular sitting of each chamber 
commences on the third Monday in October, and 
is held alternately in the northern and southern 
provinces; but the sovereign is empowered to call 
an extraordinary sitting whenever he may deem it 
expedient. 

With the king resides the power of making war 
or peace, appointing ambassadors, ministers, and 
judges ; convoking, proroguing, or dissolving the 
States-general, approving or rejecting the projects 
of laws, and every function of the executive. 

The person of the monarch is inviolable, and 
his ministers are responsible for every act of mal- 
administration. 

Every arbitrary arrest is forbidden. If, on 
urgent occasions, the government causes an indi- 
vidual to be arrested, he must be brought within 
three days before the judge to whom the law as- 
signs him. ^ 



56 



CONSTITUTION, 



The unjust penalty of confiscation is abolished. 

The judges are independent, and appointed for 
life by the king, on the presentation of the Pro- 
vincial States or the States-General. 

All judicial sentences must be pronounced in 
public, with the^ reasons on which they are 
founded. The trial by jury is however abolished, 
even in criminal cases. 

The abode of every citizen is inviolable. 

No classes are exempt from the payment of 
taxes. 

Every subject of the king is eligible to all em- 
ployments, without distinction of birth or religious 
belief. 

The liberty of the press has no other restraint 
than the responsibility of him who writes, prints, 
or distributes. 

The most precious of all rights, liberty of con* 
science, is guaranteed in the most formal manner. 
Every religion is equally protected by the laws of 
the state. 

No imprisonment for debt is allowed, except on 
5iIIs ; and the creditor is then compelled to afford 
the debtor a comfortable subsistence while in pri- 
son: but attachments against the property of a 
debtor are readily procured, and promptly exe- 
cuted. 

The crown of the Netherlands is declared he- 
reditary in the house of Orange-Nassau, which 
professes to trace its descent from a Roman family 
that accompanied Julius Caesar in his expedition 
to Gaul, and which enumerates among its ancestors 
some of the Emperors of Germany . 



GOVERNMENT, &C. 



37 



The present king was born August 24, 1772; 
and married Fredcrica Louisa Wilhelmina of 
Prussia, in October, 179L 

From this union sprung William-Frederick- 
George-Louis, hereditary Prince of Orange, born 
December 6,1792; William-Frederick-Charles, 
born February 24, 1797; and Wilhelmina-Fre- 
derica-Louisa-Charlotte-Marianne, born May 9, 
1810. 

The Prince of Orange, after an Unsuccessful 
suit to the justly-beloved, and universally-lamented 
Charlotte-Augusta of Wales, married, February 21, 
181 6, Anne-Paulowna, Grand Duchess of Russia, 
and sister of the Emperor Alexander. She was 
born January 18, 1795. The fruit of this mar- 
riage is a son, born February 19, 1817, and 
named William- Alexander-Paul-Frederic-Louis. 

The whole of the civil list of the Netherlands 
docs not exceed 220,000/. The Prince of Orange, 
as heir-apparent, has only 18,000/. per annum. 
Each member of the second chamber has a salary of 
220/., and each member of the first chamber 270/. 
per annum. It augurs not well of their inde- 
pendence, when they submit to receive stipends 
so insignificant. 

The taxes for the support of the state are not 
materially different from those in England, with 
the exception of two particulars. The window- 
tax is not estimated according to the number or 
extent of the windows, but the rent of the house. 
This is a principle which the British government 
would do well to imitate. No circumstance strikes 
a traveller so forcibly as the light and airy an 

E 



38 



GOVERNMENT, 8CC. 



pearance of the houses on the continent, compared 
with the blank and dead aspect of the noblest pri- 
vate edifices in the British islands. 

If, however, the Belgians have the advantage of 
Englishmen in one tax, they suffer more materi- 
ally from that which I shall next mention. A 
very considerable part of the revenue of the Ne- 
therlands is derived from a tax on patents, and it 
is enacted that no person shall exercise any pro- 
fession or trade without a patent. All this would 
be fair were the sum required for the patent fixed 
and determinate. But this sum varies according 
to the supposed gain of each individual. To 
appreciate this, every person is compelled to make 
a return of the profits of his business or profession. 
The inquisitorial and justly-detested income-tax is 
thus established in Belgium, with all its train of 
inconvenience and degradation. To the return of 
each individual, however, the agents of govern- 
ment are not bound to adhere, nor do they always 
or often adhere ; but they assess every person as 
they think fit. 

The citizens are -arranged into seven classes, 
according to their respective professions or com- 
puted gains, and a merchant or professional 
man may be put into either of these classes, as 
the caprice of the assessor may dictate ; therefore, 
separately from the inquisitorial nature of this tax, 
it becomes a fruitful source of political influence 
and oppression. 



CHAP. V. 

Manners and Customs. 

The manners and customs of the inhabitants ot 
the United Netherlands constitute an interesting 
part of our work. The character of the Dutch is 
perfectly unique, and not difficult to be described. 
The Flemings partake of the gravity of the Dutch, 
mingled with the gaiety of their French neighbours. 

From the situation and employment of the people 
of Holland originated the peculiar character by 
which they are distinguished. The greater part ot 
their country is below the level of the sea. Mounds 
and dykes of enormous magnitude preserve it from 
being overwhelmed by the surge, which may often 
be heard roaring above the heads of the inhabitants. 
To erect these vast buttresses required the exertions 
of persevering industry, while, to keep them incon- 
stant repair, and to maintain the innumerable arti- 
ficial drains which intersect the country in every di-^ 
rection, demand incessant attention and labour. The 
first striking characteristic of the Dutchman, there- 
fore, is industry ; an industry, however, peculiarly 
his own ; an industry which would scarcely de- 
serve the name in other countries, though its 
effects in Holland are truly astonishing. The 
strenuous exertion, and actual hard work* by 
which the peasants of other kinds are too often 
prematurely destroyed, are here absolutely un- 
known. No porter is met tottering under a load 
that every moment threatens to crush him ? but 
e 2 



40 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



even in Amsterdam, the centre of commerce, the 
very abode of industry, a cask or a chest of half a 
hundred weight, is not removed without a horse 
a id sledge to draw it. But if the Hollander docs 
not work hard, and if he often indulges in repose, 
yet he soon returns to the business which he has 
undertaken ; no fickleness, no ennui, causes him 
to abandon it ; and by perseverance he accom- 
plishes objects which his more active neighbours 
would never effect. 

Connected with steady application is strict fru- 
gality. It is a kind of settled rule with the 
Dutchman to live considerably within his income. 
It is reckoned almost as disgraceful in the Hol- 
lander to have lived a year without adding some- 
thing to his stock, as it would in the inhabi- 
bitant of another country to dissipate the whole 
of his property. Before the late wars, the Dutch 
were the proprietors of the spices of India, and 
the silks of China ; but the use of these luxuries 
was almost unknown among them. The food of 
the common people was chiefly vegetables and 
fish, and their clothing the plainest woollen stuff. 
They have even been known to purchase the 
coarsest English cloth for their own wear, and to 
export their fine Leyden cloths to other countries. 
They have bought the cheapest butter and cheese 
from Ireland, and the north of England, for their 
own consumption, and sent the excellent produc- 
tions of Holland to foreign markets. 

The following anecdote is authentic, and will 
exhibit the frugality and parsimoniousness of the 
national character. As the Spanish ambassadors 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



41 



were travelling to the Hague in lfjOS, to negotiate 
a truce with the Dutch, they saw several persons 
step out of a little boat, and seating themselves on 
the grass, each took from a wallet which he car- 
ried behind him, some bread, and cheese, and 
beer. Accidentally inquiring who these peasants 
were, they were told that they were the deputies of 
the states, the sovereign lords and masters of 
Holland. 

This industry and frugality are kept in con- 
stant activity by a love of money which absorbs 
every other propensity. The delineations of na- 
tional character are too often monuments of 
prejudice and injustice ; but candour itself is 
compelled to acknowledge that the ruling passion 
of the Dutch is avarice. The love of money, not 
as a means, but as an end, is paramount in the 
mind of almost every Dutchman, whatever may 
be his other dispositions and qualities. The 
addiction to it is fervent, inveterate, invincible, 
and universal, from youth to the feeblest old age 
It is a love of money altogether peculiar to the 
soil. It leads to no hazardous speculations, how- 
ever flattering ; — it commits nothing to the power 
of chance. The most advantageous commerce 
is neglected, or abandoned, if it does not carry 
with it the certainty of profit. The gains of the 
Hollander are sure. He can calculate them to the 
nicest fraction. His expenditure, which is also 
most scrupulously calculated, rarely exceeds the 
half of his profits. Thus every year finds him 
richer ; and the silent progress of accumulation 
and interest , at length swells his property to an 



42- 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



amount frequently almost incredible. It is an 
essential part of the creed of a Dutch merchant, 
that more fortunes are raised by prudence and 
economy, with small gains and little risk, than by 
bold expensive speculations, however flattering 
they may appear. Consequently he never out- 
trades himself; he never extends his scheme beyond 
his capital, and a failure or bankruptcy is a rare 
occurrence. 

A Hollander never loses an opportunity of gain. 
History furnishes us with some remarkable and 
ludicrous illustrations of this. In the last war, 
when the importation of English manufactures was 
rigorously prohibited, the very government itself 
contrived to supply the requisition for the clothing 
of the French army, by a clandestine importation of 
English cloth ; and accordingly the looms of 
Yorkshire clothed ten thousand French soldiers. 
It is likewise related, that in an obstinate engage- 
ment between the fleets of the Republic and Great 
Britain, and during a cessation of the fight, for the 
mutual accommodation of repairing, the officers 
of the Dutch ships actually offered their opponents 
supplies of gunpowder at an advanced price, un- 
derstanding that two or three of their ships had 
nearly exhausted their ammunition. 

It is not, however, meant to afrix any stigma 
of dishonesty on the commercial character of the 
Dutch. While they yield not to any people in the 
art of enriching themselves, they yield not to any 
in fair and honourable dealine. The credit of the 
merchants of Amsterdam used to be unlimited, and 
threc-iourths of the money remitted from one slat? 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



43 



of Europe to another, formerly passed through 
their hands. 

The natural result of this characteristic perse- 
verance and frugality is, that no country can vie 
with Holland in the number of those inhabitants 
who possess a handsome competence ; and it 
should likewise be stated that their riches rarely 
generate pride. A Hollander, in the pursuit of his 
favourite object, will seldom step one inch out of 
his way, or surrender one moment of his time to 
save his neighbours from inconvenience ; but when 
that object is attained, and he has amassed all the 
wealth which even a Dutchman can desire, he never 
gratifies the little pride, nor assumes the little 
triumphs, which fill so much of life with unneces- 
sary miseries. It remains to be determined, whether 
this proceeds from elevation of mind, or natural 
phlegm and want of feeling. If the question be 
decided by the opinion of the majority of travellers, 
the art of getting money has supplanted every 
noble thought. 

While this is given as the prevailing character, 
numqrous amiable and splendid exceptions will 
occur. It is likewise undeniable that the events of 
late years have effected no inconsiderable change in 
the manners of the people. Their commerce was 
sadly crippled, and almost destroyed ; their inter- 
course with the French increased ; they formed a 
part of the French empire, and they imbibed no 
little portion of the French character. A spirit of 
frugality has gradually declined among many 
classes. The merchants, and even the mechanics 



44 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



have begun to approximate to the luxury of their 
neighbours ; and some of the magistrates, and the 
nobility rival those of any other part of Europe in 
their table, their buildings, their furniture, and 
their equipage. The change has been rapid, but it 
has not been total. The features of the old Dutch 
character still predominate, and the traveller will 
recognize the accuracy of the picture which the 
author has drawn. 

The stranger will be struck with the peculiar 
neatness and cleanliness of the Dutch houses. The 
outside of every habitation, however old and 
humble, is as clean as water and paint can make 
it. The window-shutters are usually painted green, 
the houses are white. In order to preserve 
on them the gloss of newness, mops, pails, and 
scrubbing-brushes, are in active use every hour of 
the day, and a little hand-engine for the windows 
is in perpetual requisition. The inside of the 
house is equally purified, and every article of fur- 
niture is kept in a state of nicety, of which few 
other nations have any conception. In some parts 
of Hulland, this anxious attention to cleanliness is 
carried to a most ridiculous length. In the little 
village of Brock, which resembles more a Lilli- 
putian city in a toy-shop, or racher a fairy -town, 
than a place of human habitation, the streets are 
kept in such exquisite order, that some travellers 
have asserted, that a cat or a dog never trespasses 
upon them. It is said, but with how much truth 
I will not pretend to determine, that a man was 
once reprimanded for sneezing in the streets, and 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



45 



that a new clergyman was treated with great 
coolness by his congregation, because he did not 
pull off his shoes when he ascended the pulpit. 

The servants often form a strange contrast to 
the cleanliness which surrounds them, and which 
, they so industriously preserve. While they anxi- 
ously keep the highest polish on the meanest 
utensils, the dirt accumulates undisturbed on them- 
selves. Females of the middle and higher classes 
are, however, by no means deficient in scrupulous 
attention to personal cleanliness. 

One part of their domestic economy deserves 
severe reprobation — the practice of giving vails to 
servants. This is so universal, and the expectations 
of these menials are so exorbitant, that it is not 
uncommon, where much company is kept, for 
servants to "purchase their places of their masters. 
The stranger should therefore provide himself with 
a few florins when asked to dine with a friend, 
lest, on a second invitation, he should be reminded 
of his forgetfulness, by a little gravy or custard 
being spilled on his coat. The common present 
which the servants expect is a florin for a dinner 
or supper, and two florins a day, as long as the 
lodger or visitor remains in the house. \ 

The Dutch are not celebrated for their hospi- 
tality to strangers. If a foreigner has a letter of 
recommendation to a merchant, he is received 
with politeness; but the countenance of the Dutch- 
man is soon clouded, if the visit be prolonged 
more than a few minutes. Perhaps the traveller 
is invited to dinner on the morrow. He goes 
after the hour of exchange : he is treated with much 



46 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



cordiality ; he is presented with a handsome, if not a 
luxurious repast ; but at four o'clock the merchant 
rises from the table without ceremony, and re- 
treats to his counting-house, the wife retires to 
her nursery, and the stranger amuses himself as 
he pleases. 

A regard to truth obliges me nevertheless to 
state, that a foreigner well recommended no where 
meets with more real civility than among some of 
the first merchants of Amsterdam. He receives 
an immediate invitation, and if his manners be 
not extraordinarily rude or repulsive, a place at 
table is always reserved for him afterwards. 

The man, at the close of his daily avocations, 
either repairs to the coffee-room, where he 
passes the evening enveloped in an impenetrable 
cloud of smoke ; or he goes to the Societe, where 
he muses over the publications of the day, or 
listens to some debate often as dull and as sluggish 
as the canal which flows under the window ; or he 
betakes himself to the Spielhouse. where, unconscious 
either of passion or disgust, and with an apathy 
which even there does not always forsake him, he 
gazes on the meretricious allurements and forced 
gaiety of the wretched prostitutes who crowd the 
place : or, if he retires with his family to one of 
the many pleasant gardens and summer-houses 
that surround every Dutch town, he betaikes 
himself to his constant companion the pipe, and 
the females sip their tea, or diligently employ 
themselves in needle-work, not indeed in unbroken 
silence, but that pretty, pleasing, unruly member 
the tongue, is not employed with quite so much 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



47 



activity as in the female society of most other 
countries. 

The summer-houses of these gardens generally 
look out on some road, or place of public resort ; 
and the Hollander seems to derive much pleasure 
from gazing on the rapid succession of passengers. 
So fond, indeed, is he of this tranquil enjoyment, 
that, projecting from the apartments fronting the 
street, are often placed two mirrors, which reflect, 
in a pleasing manner, every passing object. 

To the pleasures of the robuster field-sports the 
Hollander is insensible. The very nature of the 
greater part of his country precludes the possibility 
of hunting; and his shooting is confined to the wild- 
fowl and snipes that plentifully inhabit the banks 
of the canals. To a milder and more contempla- 
tive sport he is exceedingly attached. The canals 
and lakes of Holland abound with fish ; and the 
Dutchman has often some little detached building, 
or some apartment of his house, where he can sit 
at his ease, and insnare the finny inhabitants of the 
waters. 

It must, however, be confessed that the 
accounts which travellers have been accustomed 
to give of the insensibility and phlegm of the 
Dutch have been abundantly overcharged. The 
characters of men, their employments, and their 
amusements, are not very dissimilar in all the 
large cities of Europe. The Hollander is, perhaps, 
somewhat more phlegmatic than his neighbours. 
He is more industrious than they are, and his 
time is more constantly employed in the affairs of 
commerce; but when the hours of business are 



48 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



past, he will often enter into the amusements 02" 
life with the keenest relish. 

When the Dutchman is roused from his apathy, 
his . passions are restrained within no bounds. The 
violence of the reformers previous to the com- 
mencement of the noble struggle for independence ; 
the murder of the Grand Pensionary De Witt, 
whose remains were outraged by an infuriate mob 
for many successive hours ; and the frequency 
with which the common people have, recourse to 
the knife on the most trifling quarrel, are proofs 
of this. 

The passion of the Dutch for tobacco is pro- 
verbial. This herb constitutes their principal amuse- 
ment, and is regarded as a panacea. It is curious 
to observe how naturally a pipe depends from a 
Dutchman's mouth. He usually smokes without 
the assistance of either hand, he rides on horseback 
with a pipe, he drives in a carriage, and even 
dances with it. He often goes to an astonishing 
expense in this favourite implement. It is formed 
of the most costly materials, and moulded into a 
thousand fantastic shapes. The lowest orders of 
society invariably have in their pockets a pipe, a 
picker, a piece of dried fungus, a steel and flint, 
and an enormous tobacco-box ; and even the 
higher classes are rarely without these necessary 
appendages. 

Almost every twentieth shop professes to sell 
tobacco. On the counter of each is a fire-pan or 
a light, with plenty of matches, for the use of the 
customer ; and in many private houses the fire-pan 
is the usual ornament of the table or sideboard. 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 49 

A horribly beastly custom formerly prevailed in 
Holland, but is now almost confined to the lower 
ranks of society : a large spitting-pot is introduced 
immediately after dinner, which is handed round 
the table as regularly as the bottle, and into which 
each guest in his turn discharges his -saliva. 

A very different and more amiable propensity of 
the Dutch is their passion for flowers. Every 
house has its garden, which, though small, is 
filled with the most beautiful and valuable plants. 
Four hundred and seventy-five guineas have been 
offered and refused for a single hyacinth, and tulips 
are sometimes valued at 100 or 150/. a root. 

The ancient and national dress of the Hol- 
landers is nearly confined to the fishermen-, and 
part of the peasantry. In the little villages which 
so thickly line the sea-coast, the traveller yet sees 
that mighty mass of breeches caricatured in every 
English print-shop, and which gives to the Dutch 
form its apparent and peculiar bulk and solidity. 
The women wear close jackets with long flaps, and 
short plaited coloured petticoats, sometimes con- 
sisting of more than a score yards of flannel, and 
giving a strange and ludicrous rotundity to a cer- 
tain part of the female form. The petticoat 
reaches but a little below the knee, and usually 
displays a neat and well-turned leg, covered with 
a 'blue stocking. A yellow slipper without quar- 
ters defends the foot, with large round silver 
buckles projecting over each side ; and the Dutch 
females of every class are generally remarkably 
neat about the feet and ancles. The cap exactly 
fits the, head, and carefully conceals every particle 



50 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



of hair, except two curious ringlets on the temple, 
where it is ornamented by gold fillagree clasps ; 
and on this is a hat almost large enough for an 
umbrella, and gaudily lined, forming a ridiculous 
contrast with the cropped Hapless hats of the men. 
These dresses are, among the lower orders, fre- 
quently hereditary ; and the grandfather, the 
father, and the son, have in regular succession 
proceeded to the altar in the same nuptial breeches. 
Luxury and refinement have made considerable 
changes in this particular. This singular costume 
is now found only in the sea-ports, and a few of 
the villages, while in the larger towns the inha- 
bitants differ but little from Englishmen in their 
appearance, except by wearing coarser clothes. 
In Flaarding, a little town on theMeuse, the ancient 
habit is preserved with superstitious fidelity. 

In every part of Holland an orange cockade, 
or riband, or flower, forms a necessary part of 
the male, and generally of the female dress. This 
custom was revived, and rendered universal, when, 
after the disastrous campaign of Leipsig, the Dutch 
threw off their subjection to the French. So far 
as patriotism can glow in the bosom of a modern 
Hollander, this party-badge truly speaks his hatred 
of the French, and his attachment to the house of 
Orange-Nassau. 

It may not be uninteresting to the traveller to 
mention some trifling and characteristic customs, 
and domestic arrangements. He will seldom w r alk 
far in any Dutch town, without meeting a man 
with a black gown, and a low cocked hat 
with a long crape depending behind. This 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 51 



public officer, peculiar to Holland, is called an 
aanspreeker, and his office is, on the death of any 
individual, to inform all the friends and acquaint- 
ance of the melancholy event. The funerals of 
the Dutch are not pompous, but the relatives are 
supposed to shew their regard for the deceased by 
the time of the day at which he is interred. The 
funeral is expensive according to the lateness of 
the hour. If the deceased be interred after two 
o'clock, the charge is 25 florins ; 50, if after half- 
past two ; 100, if after three o'clock ; and 200, 
if later than half-past three ; and so on in this pro- 
gression. 

A singular custom likewise prevails among the 
country people, and the lower ranks in the cities. 
Every person who could claim the slightest ac- 
quaintance or intercourse with the defunct, follows 
him to the grave. On their return they all, often 
to the amount of 60 or 100, pay their compliments 
to the widow, or the nearest relative, who provides 
liquor for them, and the glass circulates three or 
four times. All then depart, except the particular 
friends of the deceased and those who are especially 
invited, when a feast, as sumptuous as the circum- 
stances of the family will admit, takes place. At 
this the nearest relative presides. The glass passes 
briskly round ; bumper after bumper is drunk to 
the repose and welfare of the deceased, and the 
prosperity of those whom he has left behind him, 
until their grief is completely drowned in wine. 
Songs, at first decent, but afterwards boisterous 
and ludicrous, succeed. The musician is then called 
in ; the widow leads off the first dance, and the 
F 2 



52 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



amusement continues until the dawn of day sepa- 
rates the merry mourners. These strange festivi- 
ties were carried to such an excess, that they were 
expressly forbidden, in the province of Overyssels. 

In Belgium the case is far different, and the 
remains of the nearest relative are treated with an 
indifference and brutality that outrage every feel- 
ing of propriety and humanity. In less than 48 
hours the body is hurried to its last home. A car or 
caravan, in which perhaps several corpses have been 
already deposited, calls at the house in the dead of 
night ; and the body, generally without a shroud, 
and enclosed in the meanest coffin, is conveyed to 
the burial-ground, unattended by a single mourner. 
It is there hurled into a pit with the other inha- 
bitants of the caravan, and some imperfect and 
maimed rites are performed over the whole. 

A singular custom is observed when any one is 
ill. A small board is placed before the door con- 
taining a daily bulletin of the invalid's health. On 
a lying-in, the board is tastefully decorated with 
lace. By this admirable expedient the anxious 
inquiries of the friends of the family are satisfied, 
while the sick person is not disturbed, nor the 
domestics harassed by the continual racket of the 
knocker. 

On the celebration of a marriage, instead of the 
bride-cake which is frequently distributed in Eng- 
land, it is customary for the newly-married couple 
to send to each acquaintance two bottles of wine, 
generally the finest hock, spiced and sugared, and 
decorated with a profusion of ribands. 

Marriage is regarded in the Old United Pro- 



MAN NEKS AND CUSTOMS. 53 

vinces as purely a civil contract. The magistrate 
publishes the banns, and performs the ceremony ; 
previous to which a notice of the intended marriage 
is affixed on the Hotel de Ville for public inspection. 
After this the parties generally repeat the cere- 
mony in their respective parish churches, but this 
is not compulsory on them. After the marriage 
a register is produced, divided into several co- 
lumns, entitled the nobles, the rich, those who 
possess a competency, and the poor. The bride- 
groom enters his name in whatever column he 
pleases, and according to the rank w r hich he 
assumes, is the fee demanded of him. 

The marriages of British protestants are cele- 
brated by a clergyman of the church of England 
in the house of the British ambassador. 

The wedding-ring is worn in Belgium on the 
third finger of the right hand, and the ladies take 
great pleasure in covering almost every finger of 
both hands with enormous and expensive rings. 

Our housewives will smile at the Dutch method 
of airing linen. A basket called trokenherb, con- 
tains within it a pan filled with burning turf, and 
the linen is spread over the top of the basket. To 
air the bed, no warming-pan is used, but the whole 
of the cumbrous machine just described is put 
between the sheets. 

A more abominable method of increasing the 
animal heat prevails among the females of every 
class. A woman cannot go to church in the winter 
season, or even sit in her own apartment, without 
a chanffepiedy or little pot with burning turf under 
her petticoats. It is often ludicrous to observe 
f 3 



54 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



how eagerly the domestic animals shelter them- 
selves in this warm and mysterious sanctuary. 
The natural result of this pernicious custom is, that 
the complexions of the most beautiful women soon 
become sallow, and the appearance of old age 
steals on them long before its time. 

In many parts of Holland, and in almost the 
whole of Belgium, the method of warming their 
rooms is extremely unpleasant to the stranger. 
There are either no chimneys, or they are gene- 
rally closed, while an iron stove projects into the 
room, in which wood or charcoal is burned, and 
from which a long tube proceeds either into the 
chimney, or into another apartment. The conse- 
quence of this is, that the atmosphere of the 
Dutch rooms is peculiarly suffocating and unwhole- 
some to the traveller. 

In most of the towns of Holland the tower con- 
tains fifty or a hundred small bells, accurately 
tuned, called Carillons. They are struck by ham- 
mers connected with a set of keys, like those of a 
piano-forte or organ, while pedals communicate 
with the great bells. On these the player or 
Carilloneur strikes with violence, having the edge 
of his hand guarded with thick leather, and thus i$ 
enabled to execute the most difficult pieces of 
music. In large towns, it is his sole employment 
to amuse the inhabitants an hour or two every 
day; and the exertion is so great, that he is 
obliged to take frequent respites, and generally to 
go to bed as soon as his time is expired. At a 
distance, and the sound passing over water, this 
music seems like the notes of a very sweet organ. 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



55 



One improvement is wanted, a muffler adapted to 
each bell, to stop the vibration, and to prevent 
the notes from running into each other. 

The Dutchmen are generally short and stout. The 
women comparatively are taller than the men, and not 
destitute of personal grace and beauty. They possess 
a transparent delicacy of countenance, but their 
features are often void of expression. The white 
and fishy face, as some ill-natured travellers have 
unjustly called it, is perhaps the necessary con- 
sequence of their preposterous treatment of infants. 
For the first two or three months the windows are 
never opened to receive one breeze of refreshing 
air. To wash the child with cold water would be 
deemed certain murder ; and the miserable little 
creatures are swathed round with rollers until they 
are as motionless as a mummy, and afterwards 
invested with flannel upon flannel, until the mass 
of clothing is of enormous bulk. Every infant is 
thus necessarily pale and squalid. A healthy 
child is seldom seen, and the foundation is laid for 
diseases which no skill can afterwards remove. 

Whatever displeasure or disgust the traveller 
may feel at the too frequent mercenary spirit and 
rude behaviour of the men, he will allow the 
women the just praise of neatness, cleanliness, 
modesty, civility, and humanity. He will not 
find the vivacity of the French, or even of the 
Belgians. He will possibly complain of a reserve 
which the attentions of a stranger cannot easily 
subdue ; but if he has the opportunity of beholding 
the female in her domestic circle, he will bear a 



56 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



willing testimony to her pleasing qualities, and 
sterling virtues. 

The careless and hasty traveller has no oppor- 
tunity of justly appreciating the characters of the 
women. When they know and esteem their visitor, 
they exhibit none of that phlegm which often makes 
the society of Dutchmen dull and fatiguing : 
their art and timidity disappear, and their lively 
and amiable disposition shews itself without dis- 
guise, and to their honour and advantage. 

In Holland, more perhaps than in any other 
country, the female finds her truest pleasure as 
well as her truest dignity, in the arrangement of 
her household concerns, and in the society of her 
husband and her children. — Within the precincts 
of her house, she is absolute. The husband inter- 
feres not either with the regulations of the family, 
or even the early education of the children ; and, 
with a few exceptions in the management of the 
infant, at the most glaring of which I have hinted, 
the internal economy of a Dutch house is ad- 
mirable. 

Having treated so diffusely on the character of 
the Dutch, I shall be very brief in my description 
of the Belgians ; and for this reason, that they 
have little that is marked and prominent; little 
to arrest the attention of the traveller, or demand 
his particular study. The phlegm of the Dutch 
is mingled with the vivacity of the French, and 
yet the mixture is not pleasing. The different 
provinces exhibit some different shades of character. 
On the borders of Holland the natives are 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



57 



heavy, blunt, honest like their neighbours, and 
adopt their customs, amusements, and even their 
dress. But in the south they are scarcely to be 
distinguished from the French, either in appear- 
ance, habits, costume, or language. The different 
governments, under which they have passed, have 
prevented their assuming any fixed and national 
character, and indeed have rendered them strangely 
indifferent to their form of government, and to 
every political event. The Belgian rarely talks 
of politics, or if he does, he betrays an ignorance 
and carelessness equally surprising and disgusting 
to the English traveller. 

The most obvious peculiarity by which the Bel- 
gians are distinguished is their extravagant fond- 
ness for religious ceremonies and exhibitions. — 
Many times every day, the long and splendid pro- 
cession parades the streets of the principal cities. 
Every native salutes the consecrated host with the 
profoundest and the sincerest reverence, and woe 
be to the traveller who dares to ridicule their 
devotion. 

Every pious Belgian esteems it his sacred duty 
to appear in the temple of his God once at least in 
every day. As a later season would materially 
interfere with the calls of business or pleasure, the 
churches are frequented at what would be esteemed 
an unusually early hour in England. At five and 
six o'clock in the morning the principal churches 
are opened, and thronged with worshippers. 

This act of homage being paid, the Belgian 
eagerly engages in the avocations of pleasure or 
commerce, and even the afternoon of the Sunday 



58 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



is devoted to the theatre, or the ball, or some other 
species of recreation. 

A very favourite pastime of the middle and 
superior classes of Belgians is shooting with the 
cross-bow. A tall pole is erected without the walls 
of almost every Flemish town, resembling the 
may-pole in many villages in the west of England. 
On the top of this is placed a wooden bird nearly 
as large as a pigeon. The respectable inhabitants 
assemble on days of more than usual festivity, and, 
in some towns, on every Sunday, and amuse 
themselves with shooting at this mark. The per- 
son who first brings it to the ground receives a cer- 
tain prize, and, if the contest be held only a few 
times in the year, the evening closes with an enter- 
tainment and ball, at which the trophies are pub- 
licly bestowed on the victors. 

Music and dancing are favourite amusements of 
the Belgians, and especially of the middle and 
lower ranks. On every fine summer-evening, balls 
are given at most of the cabarets and gardens in 
the neighbourhood of the principal towns. The 
price of admission varies from two-pence to one 
shilling. In the depth of winter the wealthier 
inhabitants take great pleasure in parading the 
streets in sledges most fancifully and expensively 
ornamented, and drawn by one horse. A long 
train of them exhibiting every kind of fantastic 
decoration is a singular and amusing spectacle. 

In most of the towns of the Netherlands, the 
traveller must take care that he is not incommoded 
or half-drowned by the filth, which, in all, except 
the principal streets, and sometimes in them, the 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



59 



Belgic housewives throw without ceremony from 
their windows. This nuisance is extremely in- 
convenient and disgusting, and too often pro- 
ceeds from houses of the most respectable appear- 
ance. The stranger will likewise be occasionally 
surprised and disgusted by certain acts of inde- 
licacy which females of the lower classes will 
commit without scruple in the most crow T ded 
streets. 

In general information, especially among the 
lower ranks, it must be acknowledged that the 
Belgians are far inferior to the Hollanders. In 
every part of Holland there is a regular establish- 
ment of parochial schools, but in Belgium they 
are seldom found. The majority of the popula- 
tion of the Belgk provinces is catholic ; and the 
author, with the utmost reluctance, affirms, thai 
the clergy of Belgium are not too well disposed to 
the diffusion of knowledge among their flocks. 
The circulation of the Bible, the poor man's first 
and most important book, is systematically im- 
peded. 

The character of the Belgic peasantry is, how- 
ever, gradually improving, Private schools are 
established in almost every village, and the time 
will probably soon arrive, when every Belgian will 
be able to read his duty to God and man, and be 
instructed in the humbler but more useful branches 
of knowledge. 

The superior classes in the large towns have 
generally adopted the French fashions and cus- 
toms. What change their new government, and 
their close connexion with the Hollanders may 
effect, time will discover. 



CHAP. VI. 

Natural Productions and Agriculture. 

The northern provinces of the United Nether- 
lands are said to be the lowest land in the known 
world. The average level of the country is seve- 
ral feet below the surface of the ocean at high- 
water, " This land/' says a popular writer, f is 
not, properly speaking, a land. It is so thoroughly 
penetrated with water, that not only do those parts 
that are manifestly marshy yield to the slightest 
pressure of the foot, but even the very roads 
which ought to be most firm tremble at every 
step." This account is certainly much exagge- 
rated, but conveys a sufficiently accurate idea of 
the nature of the soil. 

It may therefore be supposed that sufficient 
corn cannot be grow r n for the consumption of the 
inhabitants, but the pasturage, consisting of bogs 
recovered from the sea, with a deep black rich 
soil, is most excellent. It fattens, with a rapidity 
almost incredible, the lean cattle which are brought 
from Germany and Denmark. The native horses 
and cattle shew, by their immense size, the luxuri- 
ance of the soil from which they are fed. The 
quantity of butter and cheese produced hs pro- 
digious, and the quality is superior to any other 
in Europe. The traveller will probably smile at 
the curious appearance of the cows, clothed with 
the greatest care, and often in the most ridiculous 
manner. 



NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, &C. 61 

In the country on the border of the Meuse, from 
Maestricht to Charleroy, are many valuable strata 
of coal, which only require a little industry to be 
rendered exceedingly productive. For many ages 
the Belgians seemed to be ignorant of the treasures 
which are concealed in these provinces, but 
lately much attention has been paid to the coal- 
mines. 

The principal fossil production of the province 
of Holland is turf. It constitutes the ordinary fuel 
of the Dutch. - 

Near Namur, in Hainault, and in the greater 
part of Luxemburg, are invaluable mines of iron. 
Namur likewise affords lead and copper : and 
near Limburg are inexhaustible mines of calamine 
and zinc. 

Several districts of Guelderland and Drenthe 
produce this valuable metal in smaller quantities. 

The hills on the borders of the Meuse likewise 
afford stone for building, and an abundance of the 
finest marble, which is in great request, and is 
sent as far as Italy for purposes of sculpture. 

A species of bituminous earth for fuel is dug 
near Namur, and the rocks yield a considerable 
quantity of fossil nitre. 

To the east of Bois-le-duc and Eyndhoven is a 
morass of 30 miles which almost defies cultivation. 
Overyssel is nearly barren, and the marshy heath 
of Bourtang occupies a considerable proportion of 
Groningen ; yet the industry of the Dutch has 
caused even the swampy morass and the barren 
sand to contribute to the subsistence of man. 

It is to Belgium that the traveller must look for 

G 



62 



NATURAL PRODUCTIONS 



the perfection of agriculture. Flanders has long 
been considered as the most productive and the 
best cultivated country in Europe. 

Pliny describes the excellence of the fruits of 
Belgium, and Guicciardini expatiates on the abun- 
dance and superiority of its vegetable productions. 
England is indebted to Belgium for some of her 
most pleasing flowers. The tulip, the july- flower, 
and the carnation are of Belgic origin ; and from 
the same country were imported the cabbage, the 
lettuce, and the goose-berry. 

With regard to agricultural machinery, and 
live-stock, the superiority is certainly on the side 
of Great Britain, but the immense quantity of 
corn raised in the Netherlands, and furnished to 
England before the present corn-bill at so low a 
rate, proves some superiority either in industry or 
skill. The climate and the soil arc not very 
different. 

The following circumstances will naturally ac- 
count for the difference in price : greater expense 
of cultivation in England ; higher rents and taxes ; 
greater consumption of wheat among the English, 
and a smaller proportionate consumption of other 
grains ; paper circulation, and difference of system. 

Merely observing with regard to the first, that 
wages are extremely low, — that a common labourer 
can earn only five shillings per week and his vic- 
tuals, — that the wages of a mason seldom exceed 
twelve shillings, — that the most industrious and 
skilful mechanic will find it difficult to gain 18 or 
20 shillings per week, and that there are no poor- 
rates in Flanders to oppress and beggar the farmer. 



AND AGRICULTURE. 63 



and encourage the idle and dissolute, I shall con- 
fine myself to the last, because it will fall under 
the travellers daily observation. 

The tourist will be surprised to see the uni- 
formly fine crops which the land produces. In 
England he will meet with many fields that 
rival or excel the most productive farms of the 
Netherlands, but iiere a field with an inferior 
crop is rarely or never seen. The mildew, that 
fatal disease in Britain, which renders the straw 
blackish, and the grain lean and meagre, is almost 
unknown in the Netherlands. This partly arises 
from the extreme care which the Flemish farmer 
takes in selecting the best corn for seed. Some 
farmers carefully pick out the best ears; while 
others strike an entire sheaf against a piece of 
wood, and take only the grains which first drop 
out. The seed is changed frequently, some- 
times as often as every second year. The seed 
is likewise prepared in a peculiar manner, which 
is said to afford an effectual security against the 
mildew. This method is as follows : — 

Dissolve four ounces of copperas or blue vitriol 
(sulphate of copper) in four gallons of water for 
every three bushels of grain that is to be prepared. 
Put the wheat into another vessel, and pour the 
liquid on it till it rises five or six inches above the 
corn. Stir it thoroughly, and carefully remove 
all the light grains that swim on the surface. 
After it has remained half an hour in the solution, 
throw the wheat into a basket, which will allow 
the liquid to escape. Immediately wash the grain 
in pure water, dry it, and it is ready to sow. It 
G 2 



64 



NATURAL PRODUCTIONS 



may be preserved several months before it is sown, 
but it is better to prepare it when it is wanted. 
This method has been practised for ages in the 
Pays de Waes (the country between Antwerp and 
Ghent), and there the crops are never infected 
with the mildew, and seldom with the smut. 

Another cause of the superiority of the Flemish 
crops is manuring the clover with Dutch ashes, 
i. e. ashes from the peat dug in the marshes of 
Holland. The agriculturist well knows how de- 
ficient the crops of clover have lately become in 
England, and how uncertain is the crop of wheat 
which follows. In Flanders about sixteen bushels 
of Dutch ashes are sown upon each acre of clover, 
and the consequenco is, that two great crops are 
always procured, and pasturage afterwards, while 
the crop of wheat that succeeds never fails. 
These ashes may be imported into England at 
the rate of one shilling per bushel, if none of 
our English peat should produce ashes equally 
valuable. 

Another difference in the system of husbandry 
in a considerable part of the Netherlands, and 
particularly in the plains of Fleurus, is the abo- 
lition of fallows. A constant succession of crops 
is raised. The principal use of a fallow is to clear 
the ground of root-weeds, which the Flemings 
effect by elevating the land into small ridges, and 
using a particular instrument called the binot. It 
is a maxim with the Flemish farmers that if the 
land be fully manured every ninth year fallows 
are perfectly unnecessary. The productiveness of 
the crops is a sufficient proof that the land does 



AND AGRICULTURE. 



65 



not suffer, while the crop of every sixth year is 
gained. The usual produce of wheat is twelve or 
thirteen for one, and never less than six or seven. 

Another peculiarity in the husbandry of the 
Netherlands, is the peculiar neatness that pre- 
vails. The whole country affords but few instances 
of the slovenly management which is so frequently 
seen in England. It is almost impossible to believe 
what attention is paid to weeding, and how great 
expense the farmer incurs to keep his land clean. 

The Flemish farmers are likewise distinguished 
for their attention to manure. It is another maxim 
with them, that the fertility of the soil depends on 
the riches which are given it, and their allowance 
of manure is exceedingly liberal, but the dung is 
used too fresh and green, and the compost heap is 
scarcely known in Belgium. 

The culture of rape-seed, and the winter-barley, 
the flax husbandry and the double crops, are like- 
wise peculiar features in their agriculture. 

The usual course of crops in the Pays de Waes 
is as follows :— 

1. After the land is trenched and well manured, 
potatoes are planted the first year. 

2. Wheat, with manure, sown in October or 
November, and carrots in February for a second 
crop the same year. 

3. Flax, manured, and likewise sown w T ith 
clover-seed for the next crop. 

4. Clover. 

5. Rye or wheat, with carrots for the second 
crop. 

6. Oats. 

0 3 



66 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, &C, 



7. Buck-wheat ; after which the ground is re- 
trenched. 

The usual times for sowing and reaping are 
these : — 

Wheat is sown in October or November, and 
reaped at the end of July or beginning of August. 

Rye is sown in October, November, or De- 
cember, and reaped in July. 

Winter-barley is sown in October, and reaped in 
July. 

Oats are sown in March or April, and reaped at 
the end of August. 

The crops of clover are remarkably fine, and 
sometimes grow to a height that would be scarcely 
credited, but the turnips do not usually attain any 
great size. 

The sheep are small, and the wool coarse. 
The draught-horses are good, although perhaps 
the connoisseur would complain of their hollow 
backs. The cattle are small, and seldom pre- 
posterously fat, but they are free from disease, 
and please the traveller by their delicate head and 
neck. 

The wheel-plow is not known in Belgium, and 
so little are the implements of husbandry improved, 
that even the harrows have wooden teeth. It may 
however be said, that the light soil of the Nether- 
lands scarcely requires the strong harrow of the 
British farmer. 



67 



CHAP. VII, 
Commerce* 

this subject, it is impossible to say much. 
It would be useless to speak of what has been, but 
of which scarcely a vestige now remains ; and it 
would be folly to pretend to foretell, what, in the 
new order of things, a few years may produce. 
The Netherlands were once the emporium of the 
commerce of the world. The absurd measures 
of Philip drove the greater part of the traffic 
of the south, to the northern and independent pro- 
vinces, and for many a year their industry and 
their economy rendered them wealthy and power- 
ful ; but their impolitic wars with England dimi- 
nished their trade, and crippled their marine, and 
the preposterous and tyrannical decrees of Buona- 
parte almost completed their ruin. 

Of some branches of commerce, it was, how- 
ever, impossible to deprive them. The herring- 
fishery is almost peculiar to Holland ; at least 
other nations have never been able to discover or 
to rival their method of curing them. This simple 
branch of commerce, formerly afforded subsist- 
ence to 450,000 persons. At present it scarcely 
occupies a tenth part of the number. 

The herrings appear on the coasts of Scotland 
and England about midsummer,, and are taken in 
great abundance until the end of November. They 
then migrate to the Irish seas, and return to the 
southern ocean. The Dutch fishermen are pro- 



68 



COMMERCE. 



hibited from casting their nets before the 24th of 
June. Their busses (the name of the ship em- 
ployed in this fishery) are of 50 or 60 tons 
burden, and carry about 14 men. The herrings 
are salted the first time on board the ship, and again 
when they arrive in Holland. The principal 
ports occupied in this fishery are Dort, Rotter- 
dam, Schiedam, Maaslandsluys, Vlaardingen, the 
Brill, Amsterdam, Hoorn, Enkhuysen, Middle- 
bourg, and Zieriksee. The town of Enkhuysen 
is celebrated for drying the fish in a superior 
manner. 

The productiveness of this fishery has inspired 
the Dutch with an almost superstitious idea of the 
excellence of the herring. It is regarded as a 
sovereign and universal panacea. A fresh her- 
ring, on the first appearance of that fish, will 
cure every disease to which the human frame is 
subject. They are, consequently, for some days 
most eagerly sought after, and fetch an enormous 
price. 

The Greenland fishery was another source of 
wealth to the Dutch. The ports of Rotterdam and 
Amsterdam alone used to send at least 250 vessels 
of two or 300 tons, each of them manned by 40 or 
50 sailors. This trade is nearly annihilated. 

The advantageous situation of the Netherlands 
at the mouths of so many noble rivers, has pre- 
served a considerable internal commerce, and a 
profitable intercourse with Germany. Immense 
rafts of timber float down the Rhine, and in return, 
the greater part of Germany is supplied with 
sugar, spice, tea? coffee, arms, earthenware, slates, 



COMMERCE, 



09 



woollen cloths, and linen. The balance of this 
trade is always in favour of the Dutch, and is 
secure from the destructive inroads of maritime 
war. 

The manufactures of the different towns will be 
described in the account of each town in our 
Itinerary, and the best markets for every kind of 
merchandise will be pointed out. The most 
esteemed articles are the woollen cloths of Leyden 
and Utrecht, the silk of Utrecht, Haarlem and 
Amsterdam, the black silk of Antwerp, the vel- 
vets of Amsterdam, the camlets and baize of Ley- 
den, the fustian of Amersfoort, the linen of Gro- 
ningen, Friesland, and Overyssel, the bleacheries 
of Ghent, Haarlem, Utrecht, and Enkhuysen, 
the printed cottons of Amsterdam, the ribands and 
galloon of Haarlem, the black dye of Antwerp, 
the fine lace of Antwerp and Brussels, the stronger 
lace of Mechlin and Bruges, the fire-arms of 
Liege, the cutlery of Namur, the toys of Spa, 
the iron of Namur, the beer of Louvain, the 
horses of Groningen and East Friesland, the 
refined sugar of Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and 
Utrecht, the tiles and bricks of Utrecht and Ley- 
den, and the tobacco of Amsterdam, Amersfoort, 
and Wageningen. 

The merchants of the Netherlands begin again 
to export to Russia, bullion, silks, cotton, spice, 
pewter, cutlery, diamonds, wine, and fruit; and 
receive tallow, hemp, pitch, whale-oil, masts, 
timber, hides, furs, and canvass. 

To the ports of the Baltic they send the fore^ 
going articles, and tobacco, paper, beer, and 



70 



COMMERCE. 



cheese ; and import, beside the same articles as 
from Russia, wheat, rye, and flax-seed. 

To Sweden and Norway they export spice, 
almonds, dried figs, prunes, tobacco, salt, woollen- 
stuffs, silks, bullion, wine and brandy ; and import 
timber, iron, copper, cannon, bullets, fire-arms, 
pitch, and tar. 

They furnish Germany, through Hamburgh 
and Bremen, with spice, coffee, and sugar, and 
receive linen, wrought iron, wool, and quills. By 
the Rhine, they send every kind of merchandise, 
and receive timber, books, the Rhine and Moselle 
wines, iron, and cement. 

They furnish England with flax, geneva, hides, 
diamonds, eels, beer, butter, and cheese; and 
import books, engravings, cutlery, and coal. 

The Flemings are beginning to rival the English 
in their cotton-manufactories, and the cloths of 
Liege are equal, if not superior, to any that Bri- 
tain can produce. 

With France the trade of Belgium has 
much decreased. No manufacture of the Low 
Countries is now permitted to be publicly im- 
ported into France. Whether the measure be dic- 
tated by true policy, or mean revenge, a triple 
line of custom-house officers, (douaniers) renders 
it almost impossible to smuggle the most trifling 
article. In his tour from Brussels to Paris, tho 
portmanteau of the traveller will be repeatedly and 
strictly examined. The merchants of Belgium 
severely feel this, and the manufactories of several 
of the towns are crippled, and nearly destroyed. 

The present government of the Netherlands, 



COMMERCE. 



71 



seems disposed to act on the principle of excluding 
every thing that can rival their own manufactures. 
Accordingly many foreign articles, raw and un- 
manufactured, are admitted on payment of the most 
trilling duty, while a duty amounting to a very 
considerable part of the actual value is imposed on 
every production natural to Belgium, and every 
article that can be manufactured there. Belgium 
produces much barley, and brews most excellent 
beer; therefore a duty amounting to two shillings 
per gallon is laid on all foreign malt-liquor im- 
ported; but the country produces little wine, 
therefore the duty on that article does not amount 
to a twentieth part of the duty on beer. Coals 
are abundantly found in the province of Liege, 
and near the frontiers of France ; therefore the 
coals of Great Britain, although far superior in 
quality to those of Belgium, are perfectly ex- 
cluded by an enormous impost. Many cotton and 
'woollen manufactories are established in various 
parts of the Netherlands, and employ a consider- 
able portion of the population. Raw wool and 
cotton are therefore imported almost duty-free, 
but the importation of cotton-thread, printed cottons, 
and all woollen cloths is almost prohibited by an 
enormous duty. The staple commerce of the 
northern provinces is fish, consequently the im- 
portation of fish, salted or fresh, is strictly pro- 
hibited. In a late report of the Dutch Minister 
of Customs (January 29, 1818) the principle of 
exclusion is formally recognised and more strictly 
enforced. It is made to extend even to the transit 
trade ; and the duties on refined-sugars, cottons. 



72 



DYKES, CANALS, 



threads, calicoes, woollens, lace, tin plates ; 
and some other articles, have been considerably 
increased. 

Into the policy of this system it is not my 
intention to inquire. It unfortunately is the sys- 
tem which England has long adopted, which she 
taught to the nations of the continent, and which 
they are now practising to her extreme loss and 
impoverishment* England refuses to receive those 
articles from foreign states, which would appa- 
rently interfere with her own manufactures. That 
extraordinary person who lately governed the des- 
tinies of Europe, extended this principle, and esta- 
blished it throughout the continent, he even shut 
the ports against all British goods. With the 
downfall of his empire the vigour of this principle 
subsided, but the system of exclusion which Eng- 
land first practised, and which she forced on other 
nations, is still followed, and no where more 
rigorously than, in the Netherlands. 



CHAP. VIII. 

Dykes, Canals, and Rivers* 

It has been observed, that in few parts of the 
world does the ocean long retain precisely its 
original limits. It either encroaches with more 
or less rapidity on the land, or it yields its own 
bed to the operations of human industry. On the 
whole coast of the Netherlands it has for many 



AND RIVERS. 



7S 



ages been making the most alarming encroach* 
ments. 

On consulting the ancient maps, it will be found 
that the river Yssel ran into an inland lake called 
Flevo, and from that lake a river pursued its 
course for a distance of 50 miles before it reached 
the sea. But at present, this very lake forms part 
of the sea. All the intervening country has been 
swallowed up; a broad expanse of water, more 
than 70 miles in length and 40 in breadth, covers 
it; and the islands of the Texel, Viieland, Schel- 
ling, and Ameland are the only remains of the 
old continent. History is silent as to the period of 
this dreadful desolation, but it is subsequent to 
the time of the Romans. 

The Scheldt originally formed a mere delta at 
its mouth, divided by four or five moderate 
streams ; but these are now widened into very con- 
siderable arms and creeks of the sea, and the con- 
tinent is separated into the distant islands of Beve- 
land, Walcheren, and Schouwen. This occurred 
in the 10th century ; and as lately as the 15th cen- 
tury a vast lake was suddenly formed to the s. E« 
of Dort, overwhelming 72 large villages, with 
100,000 inhabitants, who perished in the deluge. 

This constant encroachment of the sea, and 
these sudden and horrible devastations threatened, 
perhaps at no very distant period, the inundation 
and destruction of the whole country. To 
avert this calamity the inhabitants commenced, 
and brought to perfection an undertaking which 
has filled Europe and the world with astonish- 
ment. They began to raise banks or mounds 

H 



74 



DYKES, CANALS, 



against the sea, and although the work of many a 
year was often swept away in an hour, they per- 
severed with all the characteristic steadiness and 
obstinacy which have been justly attributed to 
them. Their banks slowly grew into enormous 
mounds. They became consolidated by time. 
The sea covered them with sand, and thus fur- 
nished them with a defence against its own fury ; 
and the Dutch can now truly say to the raging 
ocean in its wildest commotion, " Hitherto shalt 
thou come, and no further." 

These dykes are of various height and thickness 
according to their situation, and the urgency of 
the case. They are formed sloping on each side, 
the breadth of the base being very considerable, 
and many of them sufficiently wide on the top for 
two carriages to go abreast. Although the sea 
has still continued to rise upon their coast, and 
some of their land is 40 feet below the high water 
mark, they consider themselves in perfect secu- 
rity. The traveller experiences a sensation of 
mingled pleasure, astonishment, and apprehension, 
when he walks at the foot of some of the dykes, 
and hears the surges dash far above his head. 

In the same manner they have built numerous 
dykes on the banks of their livers, and seem to 
have brought into complete subjection the vast 
body of water which runs through or surrounds 
their country. These dykes are properly consi- 
dered to be national works, and are maintained at 
incredible labour and expense. 

The following lines of the interesting poet 
Goldsmith give so lively a picture of these extra- 



AND RIVERS. 



75 



ordinary monuments of human industry, that I 
cannot resist the temptation to quote them : — - 

Methinks her patient sons before me stand, 
Where the broad ocean leans against the land, 
And, sedulous to stop the coming tide, 
Lift the tall rampire's artificial pride. 
Onward, methinks, and diligently slow 
The firm connected bulwark seems to go ; 
Spread its long arms against the watery roar, 
Scoops out an empire and usurps the shore : 
While the pent ocean, rising o'er the pile, 
Sees an amphibious world beneath him smile ; 
The slow canal, the yellow-blossom'd vale, 
The willow- tufted bank, the gliding sail ; 
The crowded mart, the cultivated plain, 
A new creation rescued from his reign. 
Thus, while around the wave-subjected soil 
Impels the native to repeated toil, 
Industrious habits in each bosom reign, 
And industry begets a love of gain. 

There is usually a second dyke within, and near 
to the first ; so that should the water burst or over- 
flow the outer embankment, the second may pre- 
vent it from inundating the neighbouring country, 
while the hollow between the dykes serves as a 
canal or aqueduct to carry off any occasional 
flood. 

The side of the mound towards the sea is orna- 
mented and strengthened by a species of reed 
(Arundo arenosa), which the Hollanders carefully 
plant in the spring and autumn. This catching 
the sand which the tide drives against the dyke, 
it rapidly accumulates, and soon affords a thick 
covering for the original mound, and defies the 
ravages of the most violent storm. 

h 2 



/ 

/ 

/6 DYKES, CANALS, 

Many of the towns of Holland derive their name 
from these dykes. Rotterdam is so called from 
the dyke or dam on the. banks of the river Rotter, 
which flows through that city ; and Amsterdam is 
so denominated from the dyke or dam on the 
Amstel. 

At convenient distances are vast sluices, by 
means of which the whole country may be inun- 
dated to a considerable depth at the shortest 
notice. In desperate cases this would prove a suffi- 
cient security against the attack of an enemy ; but 
only in desperate cases could it be resorted to, for 
while the enemy would be checked or destroyed, 
the country likewise would be laid waste. 

Having raised these immense bulwarks against 
the ravages of the ocean, the inhabitants next dili- 
gently employed themselves in draining the mo- 
rasses with which the Netherlands abounded. 
They even attacked, and succeeded in recovering 
many immense tracts of land which the sea had 
entirely covered. The canals that formed a high, 
road from one town to another, and with which 
they intersected every part of the country, contri- 
buted to effect this object, and to secure its per- 
manence. 

To enumerate the canals of the Netherlands, 
would occupy half our volume. In the whole of 
the ancient United Provinces, and in the greater 
part of Belgium, they form a communication, 
even between the most inconsiderable towns. The 
tourist crosses them at almost every mile. The 
natives oftener travel by them, than by the high 
road ; and if the stranger can accommodate him- 



AND RIVERS. 



77 



self to the slow progress which he makes, he will 
find this mode of travelling both cheap and plea- 
sant. I shall enlarge on this topic, in a subse- 
quent part of my work. 

The proximity of the northern provinces to the 
sea, and the numerous rivers, lakes, and canals 
that intersect the country, render the atmosphere 
damp and foggy, This seems not to affect the 
health of the natives. Their countenances, except 
in a few districts, exhibit no traces of sickness or 
disease ; and instances of longevity, especially in 
the provinces of Utrecht and Guelderland, are not 
uncommon. The traveller, however, if he be 
not unusually prudent and cautious, will fre- 
quently suffer, and unnecessary delay in some of 
the marshy districts is too often fatal. 

The three principal rivers of the Netherlands are 
the Rhine, the Meuse, and the Scheldt. 

The Rhine has its source in Switzerland, in the 
country of the Grisons, from a glacier upon the sum- 
mit of mount Badur, at the head of a valley called 
the Rhinewald. This valley is little visited even 
by the natives, and presents frightful deserts of ice 
and snow through which the stream descends, 
sometimes visible, and sometimes working its 
hidden track beneath the frozen mass. Hence it 
pervades or borders Switzerland for the space of 
200 miles to the lake of Constance, where it 
bends west to Basel, and commences its long north- 
ern course. But it does not begin to assume the 
romantic grandeur of which tourists have given such 
seducing accounts, until it arrives at Mentz, within 
60 miles from the frontiers of the Netherlands. From 
H 3 



78 



DYKES, CANALS, 



that town, as far as Coblentz, Bonn, and Cologne, 
its shores abound with beautiful and striking ob- 
jects, and every winding of the river presents some 
new prospect, rich, variegated, and grand. 

It enters the Netherlands a little beyond Cleves, 
where it divides, and that branch which contains 
the greater proportion of water and commerce, 
assumes the name of the Waal. It now loses nearly 
all its peculiar and interesting scenery. Before it 
arrives at Arnheim it again divides ; and a part, 
called the Yssel, takes a northern direction, by 
Zutphen, Deventer, and Zwoll, and falls into the 
Zuyder Zee. The Rhine thence proceeds east to 
Wyk, w>here it once more forms two streams. The 
larger taking the name of the Lech, continues its 
progress to the £., joins the Waal and the Meuse, 
and laves the walls of Rotterdam ; while the Rhine, 
dwindled into a comparatively insignificant stream, 
proceeds by Utrecht and Ley den to the sea. 

The Rhine is not interesting to the Belgian tra- 
veller for any very beautiful and commanding 
scenery, but it is important as the source of that 
internal commerce which has survived the desola- 
tions of war, and contributed to the ease and com- 
fort that are so observable among the greater part 
of the Dutch people. This has already been 
mentioned in the chapter on the commerce of the 
Netherlands. A description of the immense rafts 
of timber which are floated down this river will be 
found in our account of Dort in the Itinerary, as 
they are principally consigned to this port. 

The Meuse rises in France between Void and 
Toul, and passing by Verdun, Sedan, and Me- N 



AND RIVERS. 



79 



zieres, enters the Netherlands near Fumay. It 
then waters Charlemont, Namur, Huy, Liege, 
Maestricht, and Ruremonde ; joins the Waal near 
Worcum, and proceeds to the sea, by Gorcum, 
Dordrecht, Rotterdam, Maasluis, and the Brill. 

In some parts of its course this river exhibits, 
on a smaller scale, all the wildness, the variety, 
and the delicacy of the scenery of the Rhine. 
The passage from Namur to Maestricht, will well 
repay the traveller. It is, indeed, the favourite 
resort of the Belgian painters, and of all those who 
wish to study nature in her most majestic and 
interesting forms. The whole course of the river 
from Sedan to Groningen is extremely beautiful, 
but this is the choicest part. The river is usually 
close shut in by immense rocks on each side, 
sometimes beautifully covered with wood to their 
very summits, at others, naked and abrupt, and 
of every varied colour. Some of the clefts are 
whimsically fringed with box and ivy ; other 
larger openings present a deep and romantic val- 
ley, either suddenly closed by some gigantic rock, 
or terminating in a pleasing view of the surround- 
ing country. 

Near Liege are numerous country-houses de- 
lightfully situated, with their gardens extending to 
the brink of the river, and which , artfully heightening, 
and giving variety to the romantic character of the 
scenery, add much to the pleasure of the voyage. 
One of these chateaux is built on the summit of an 
immense isolated rock, and seems suspended in 
the air by a kind of enchantment. The hop- 
gardens which immediately surround Liege, appear 



80 DYKES, CANALS, &C. 



like an immense camp, occupying all the inequa- 
lities of the bank ; but the effect is not pleasing. 

The Meuse gradually loses much of its beauty 
before it arrives at Groningen, and afterwards de- 
generates into a mere Dutch river, with its end- 
less line of uncouth and formal dykes. 

By means of the Meuse and the canals con- 
nected with it, the internal commerce of the Ne- 
therlands is much benefited, and a profitable 
communication was formerly established with 
the north of France. 

The Scheldt rises behind the gardens of the 
ancient abbey of Mont- Saint-Martin, near Cataiet, 
about 10 miles north of St. Quentin. This ma- 
jestic river, whose navigation has often embroiled 
the greater part of Europe, flows from an arch 
12 feet deep, dug in the side of a hill. On one 
of the stones of the arch is the following appro- 
priate inscription: 

Felix sorte tua Scaldis ! 

Fons limpidissime 1 
Qui a sacro scaturiens agro, 
Alluis et ditas nobile Belgicum. 
Totque claras urbes lambens, 

Gravius Thetidem intras. 

Happy is thy fate, oh Scheldt ! beautiful river ! 
who, springing from sacred ground, toaterest and 
enrichest the noble country of Belgium ; and after 
having visited so many celebrated cities, rollest ma- 
jestically into the ocean. 

The Scheldt flows by Cambray,- Bouchain, 
Valenciennes, and Conde, after which it enters 
the Netherlands, and proceeding by Tournay, 



COINS. 



81 



Oudenarde, Ghent, Dendermond, and Antwerp, 
-divides into two principal branches, called the 
eastern and western Scheldt, which form the 
islands of Zealand. 

The long disputed question of the navigation of 
the Scheldt is laid at rest by the late " Act of the 
Congress of Vienna." The 109th Article declares, 
" that the navigation of every river from its 
source to its mouth shall be perfectly free, subject i 
only to certain duties which have hitherto been 
paid, and these dependent on the tonnage r and 
not on the nature of the cargo. 



CHAP IX. 
Coins. 

The following is a table of the Coins, real and 
imaginary. Both the Flemings and Dutch have 
several imaginary pieces of money, like the English 
Pound Sterling. The fractions are suppressed, as 
rendering the table unnecessarily perplexed for com- 
mon use. The value in English Coin is expressed 
as nearly as possible. 

BELGIUM. 

ENGLISH. 

Jj. s. do 

A Peking, imaginary, is equal to ,.. 0 0 O-fc 

4 Penings an Unche, or Doight . . 0 0 oj 

2 Doights a Groot, imaginary ..0 0 0* 

2 Groots a Petard 0 Q 1 



8<E 



COINS. 



Silver. 

ENGLISH. 



3 Petards ...... a Plaquette 

4| Petards ...... a Piece of 5 Sous 

Brabant 

6 Petards ........ an Escelin, or Schilling 1 

2 Escelins a double Escelin . . 



40 Groots a Florin, imaginary 



Gold. 

A Ducat 

A Sovereign 

A Double Sovereign • . „ 1 



L. 


s. 


d. 


. 0 


0 






0 


3 


s 


o 




0 


0 


6 


0 


1 


0 


0 


1 


3 


0 


1 


6 


0 


1 


2 


u 




A 


o 


A 
*i 


g 


Q 


o 




0 


1 


4 


0 


2 




0 


5 


3 


0 


9 


3 


0 


14 


1 


1 


8 


2 



HOLLAND. 

A Pening, imaginary 0 0 0 T ^ 

4 Penings a Doight 0 0 0± 

2 Doights a Groot, imaginary . . 0 0 0| 

2 Groots a Stiver 0 0 1 

6 Stivers a Schilling 0 0 6J 

20 Stivers a Guilder, or Florin 0 1 9J 

% Guilders a Rix Dollar 0 4 4-J 

60 Stivers a Dry Guilder 0 5 4| 

3 Guilders, 3 Stivers . . a Silver Ducatoon 0 5 8 

6 Guilders a Pound, imaginary 0 10 6 

A Ducat ..... 0 9 4 



coins. 83 

ENGLISH. 

L. s» d. 

A Half-Ryder, or 7 Florins 0 12 h 

A Rider, or 14 Florins 1 4 10 

A Ducatoon 1 16 0 

A Double Ryder . 2 10 3 



The Doight is the only Copper money. 

The Coins of France are equally current with 
those of Holland and Belgium ; the traveller will 
therefore be thankful for a list of French coins 
with their English value. 

Copper, 



A Liard is equal to. 0 0 0| 

The Piece of two Liards 0 0 Of 

The Sou 0 0 0§ 

The piece of 6 Liards (Bell-metal) 0 0 0| 

The double Sou, or Ten Centime Piece. ... 0 0 1 

Silver. 

The Six Sou Piece 0 0 3 

The Demi Franc 0 0 5 

The Twelve Sou Piece 0 0 6 

The Fifteen Sou Piece 0 0 .7J 

The Franc, or Livre . . 0 0 10 

The 24 Sou 0 1 0 

The 30 Sou 0 1 3 

The piece of 2 Francs 0 1 8 

3 Francs O 2 6 

5 Francs 0 4 2 

6 Francs 0 5 0 

Gold. 

The Napoleon 0 16 8 

The New Louis 0 16 8 

The Old Louis 10 0 

The Double Napoleon „ 1 13 4 

The New Double Louis 113 4 

The Old Double Louig . . , 2 0 0 



84 



PART II. 

DIRECTIONS TO THE TRAVELLER. — VARIOUS 
ROUTES.— DESCRIPTION OF THE PRINCIPAL 
TOWNS, &c. 



SECT. I. Directions to the Traveller. 

THE traveller on the continent will find it of 
much, advantage previously to digest a plan of his 
route. He should consult some authentic account 
of Belgium, and determine on the places which he 
means to visit, and the objects to which he will 
give his principal attention. This will not only 
relieve him from much unpleasant uncertainty 
and indecision in the course of his journey, but 
will likewise save him considerable time and ex- 
pense ; for few things are often so erroneous as 
the directions and advice which he will receive 
from landlords, waiters, and even tolerably in- 
formed natives. 

Having determined on his route, he next pro- 
vides a sufficient fund for his expenses. It will 
not be adviseable that he should take with him 
much more cash than will carry him to the con- 
tinent, or the first principal town that he mean* 
to visit ; but he should furnish himself with letters 
of credit on some banker or merchant at Amster- 
dam, Antwerp, Rotterdam, or Brussels. These 



DIRECTIONS TO THE TRAVELLER. 85 

will probably afford him a pleasant introduction 
to respectable and useful individuals, and may 
easily be procured at Hammersley's, Coutts's, or 
most other bankers. 

As this affair is attended with some trouble, and 
no advantage to the London banker, a stranger can 
scarcely expect, and will not receive this accom- 
modation, unless he is well recommended by some 
friend who has a cash account at thehouse. With 
this recommendation, the matter will be readily 
accomplished. The traveller will deposit with the 
London banker the sum which he designs to ex- 
pend, and will receive orders on some bankers in 
Brussels, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, or the other 
principal towns, amounting to the same sum and 
payable at sight. 

As a measure of precaution, he will be required 
to give his signature in his usual mode of writing. 
This is transmitted to the foreign bankers. When 
he presents the order to them, he will again be re- 
quested to write his name. The two signatures 
will be compared, and the money immediately paid 
to him, without any deduction for brokerage. 

The traveller, especially if he, has business of 
importance to transact, should next arrange the 
places at which letters may be directed to him, 
and as nearly as possible the time when he shall 
arrive at these places. The common address of 
" Poste-restante" i. e. " to be left at the Post-office 
until called for " is very insecure. If it be not con- 
venient to arrange the precise time for the despatch 
or arrival of letters, they should be directed to the 
care of some merchant or banker. 



86 DIRECTIONS TO THE TRAVELLER. 



The baggage of the traveller should be as light 
and portable as possible, and should contain no 
contraband goods, for the smallest portion of them 
may bring on him an infinitude of trouble. It will 
be useless to carry much more than a bare change 
of apparel, since at almost every town through 
which he passes, he will be able to supply himself 
with whatever is necessary, at very little additional 
expense. The traveller's portmanteau should be 
short and deep, as it will then be more likely to 
fit the different carriages, than one which is long 
and shallow. 

When his luggage is examined at the custom- 
houses, it will be prudent for him to treat the 
officers with civility, and offer them a trifling per- 
quisite. To assume airs of importance and anger, 
is absurd and impolitic. The officers are discharg- 
ing a necessary duty, and have it in their power to 
be very troublesome if offended. The traveller 
should never suffer more than one trunk to be 
examined at once. It will be impossible for his 
eyes to be every where, and valuable articles have 
sometimes been purloined, and even contraband 
goods clandestinely introduced. 

Passports may be obtained by addressing a letter 
to his Excellency Baron Fagel, at his office, No. 14, 
Buckingham-street, Strand, signed by a respect- 
able house-keeper to whom he is known. The 
passport will be granted on the following day free 
of expense. 

A passport is as necessary in a tour through the 
Netherlands, asthrough France; and when indorsed 
in France will be admitted in Belgium, It will be 



VOYAGE TO THE NETHERLANDS, 87 



demanded at some of the fortified towns, and the 
ready production of it may save the traveller 
much trouble and some expense. 



SECT. II. Voyage to the Netherlands. 

If the traveller proposes to visit the northern 
provinces, he may embark at Harwich. A coach 
goes from the Spread Eagle, in Grace-Church- 
street, every evening at 7? and on Monday, Wed- 
nesday, and Friday mornings at 9* Packets sail 
from Harwich to Helvoetsluys at least twice in the 
week, and the charge including provisions is 21. 
14s. 6d. The passage rarely exceeds twenty or 
twenty-four hours. 

The freight of a carriage is 6 guineas and 2 
shillings per ton, for tonnage. 

The waggon for Harwich goes from the Bull and 
the King's arms in Grace-Church-street, and the 
Ipswich Arms in Cullum-street. 

A vessel sails for Harwich every week from 
Wheeler's and Harrison's wharfs. 

Packets sail from the Custom House quay to 
Rotterdam, on the 10th, 20ih, and 30th of every 
month. The passage is 3 guineas for each person, 
includingboard, and 2 cwt. of luggage. The cabins 
are very comfortably fitted up, and each packet 
has a state cabin, which may be hired by a family. 
By this conveyance the expense of land-travelling 
from London to Harwich, and from Helveotsluys 
to Rotterdam will be saved. Every necessary in- 
formation may be obtained, and a passage secured 
i2 



88 VOYAGE TO THE NETHERLANDS, 

by application to the captains of the packet*, off 
the Custom-house, or- at the General Packet-office, 
No. 357, Strand. 

On approaching the coast of Holland, the first 
object that is seen is the tower of Goree, a little 
island between Voorn and Schowen ; next appears 
the low and barren coast of that island, and soon 
afterwards the town of Helvoetsluys. 

If the traveller intends to visit Brussels, and the 
southern provinces first, he will go to Ostend. 
Packet-boats sail every Sunday morning from 
Gravesend to Ostend. A Packet likewise sails 
every Sunday and Thursday from Botolph wharf 
near London Bridge; the fare is 1/. lis. 6d* for 
every grown person, and 18s. for children. The 
tourist may ensure a conveyance to Ghent for 
1/. 1 8s., and to Brussels for 2 guineas. Passengers 
are booked for these packets either at the General 
Packet-office, 357? Strand, or at Botolph wharf. 
All baggage should be sent the day previous to 
sailing, that it may be cleared at the Custom- 
house. If the traveller sails by either of these 
packets, it will be necessary for him to lay in a 
small stock of provisions, as the voyage may last 
from 16 or 20 hours to two or three days, accord- 
ing to the state of the wind. 

Regular packets sail to Ostend from Harwich, 
Dover, Hastings, and Brighton, but I would cer- 
tainly advise the traveller who starts from London, 
to go either by the Gravesend or Botolph wharf 
Packets. 

Some coach proprietors advertise to convey pas- 
sengers the whole way from London to Brussels or 



ARRIVAL AT HELVOETSLTJ YS. 89 



Amsterdam, for a certain sum. By adopting this 
mode of conveyance, the traveller is relieved from 
all uncertainty and anxiety respecting his passage 
from the English port to the Flemish coast; but 
he is subject to one great inconvenience in being 
compelled to wait at the port until the packet 
connected with the London coach proprietor ar- 
rives, and is ready to sail again. Some persons 
have been detained nearly 36 hours on this ac- 
count. 

Should the traveller have more baggage, than he 
wishes to take under his own charge, Mr. Bray of 
the packet-office, 357, Strand, will convey it to 
any part of the continent on reasonable terms. 

The best English inn at Ostend is the Rose, 
kept by Mr. Nicholson, From Ostend, the tour- 
ist may proceed to Bruges and Ghent by the 
canal, which is the most economical and plea- 
sant mode of conveyance; but from Ghent to 
Brussels he must take the diligence, or travel 
post. Every particular respecting this, and con- 
nected with the comfort of the traveller will be 
mentioned in Section VI. 



SECT. III. Arrival at Helvoetsluys. 

I will suppose the tourist safely landed at 
Helvoetsluys. 

Helvoetsluys is a strong sea-port in the 
island of Voorn, and is the principal port for the 
English packets from Harwich. It is a neat town 
built on the banks of the great sluice whence it 
derives its name, and the harbour is large enough 
i 3 



90 



ARRIVAL AT 



to contain the whole navy of Holland. It rum 
through the middle of the town, and is carried, 
hy means of piers, fifty yards into the sea. The 
dock-yard and arsenal are in the centre of the 
fortifications. 

Helvoetsluys contains a flourishing naval school, 
supported by government. The houses of Hel- 
voetsluys have a whimsical appearance, and 
afford a fair specimen of the usual style of build- 
ing in the Dutch towns. The gable end is gene- 
rally presented to the street. This runs up to a 
sharp point, like some of the old English farm- 
houses, and a painted bench is a necessary ap- 
pendage to every door. The uncouthness of this 
scene is, however, much relieved by a profusion 
of yellow, green, and white paint, with which 
every edifice is covered. 

Hobson's is the inn most frequented by English- 
men ; and the Packet-boat, kept by Madame Nor- 
mand, and principally resorted to by the French, 
is not inferior to it. 

The packet is soon surrounded by a crowd of 
spectators ; and in the immense trowsers of the 
sailors, and the close jackets, the short many- 
folded petticoats, the mob-caps, and the umbrella- 
sized hat of the women, the traveller will recog- 
nize the accuracy of the account which I have 
given of the costume of the Dutch. Numerous 
porters now present themselves, eagerly contend- 
ing which shall carry the luggage. It will be 
necessary to agree with them beforehand what he 
is to pay, or he will be subjected to the grossest 
impositions. The most exorbitant demands will 



HELVOETSLUYS. 



91 



be urged in language not remarkable for its civility $ 
and, after the traveller has remonstrated and 
stormed until he is tired, he will be compelled to 
pay every doight. This remark should not be 
forgotten whatever part of Holland the tourist may 
visit, and especially in the great cities. At Am- 
sterdam particularly he cannot be too much on 
his guard. He must likewise be careful not to 
lose sight of his portmanteau, or possibly he may 
never see it again. 

In almost every town of Holland or Belgium, 
he may trust himself to the boys who surround 
the doors of the hotels, or accost him in the 
streets, and who, for a trifling gratuity, will safely 
conduct him to any part of the town, and to 
every object of curiosity. It should, however, be 
added, that they will fully as readily conduct him 
to the abodes of prostitution and vice which every 
populous town contains, an<i that they will fre- 
quently not only volunteer, but eagerly press 
their services for this purpose. 

The traveller will find it more pleasant to look 
out for one of these boys, than to hire a guide at 
the inn, or to trust to any person who may be 
recommended by the master of the hotel. On 
the accounts given by the guides hired at the inns, 
no dependence can be placed. They uniformly 
delight to astound and gull the stranger by the 
marvellous stories which they relate ; and they 
are skilful only in showing him as few places as 
possible in each excursion, and leading him 
through the most circuitous ways. 



92 



DUTCH INNS. 



If the traveller purposes to remain sufficiently 
long in any place to examine all the objects of 
curiosity that it presents, he will find it of much 
advantage, ere he commences his round, to ascend 
the tower of the principal church, or the town- 
hall. Throughout the whole of Holland, and the 
greater part of Belgium, the full extent of the 
town will appear before him ; and he will obtain a 
tolerably adequate idea of the relative situations 
and bearings of the objects which he purposes to 
visit. He will thus be enabled to correct many 
careless or wilful errors of his guide, and fre- 
quently the assistance of a guide will be rendered 
unnecessary. 

Previous to the arrival of the traveller at any of 
the great sea-ports, it will be prudent for him 
to determine at what inn he means to lodge, and 
not to leave himself at the disposal of either the 
postilion or the porter. This publication will 
furnish him with the names of the best inns, or 
he may pretty safely trust to the recommendation 
of the captain of the packet. 



SECT. IV. Dutch Inns. 

I will suppose the tourist now arrived at 
his inn. The room into which he is ushered, 
whether on the ground-floor, or up stairs, will 
certainly have a bed in ir. It is cither contained 
in a small press, or very neatly concealed in a 
sliding partition in the wainscot. It is usually 



DUTCH INNS. 



93 



sufficiently large for one person, but would ill 
accommodate two. 

The Dutch inn-keepers are said to be inte- 
rested and imposing. In the inferior inns, and 
on the roads little frequented, the traveller will 
sometimes find this too true, but in the best 
hotels he will have no reason to complain of his 
accommodation or his charges. It behoves him, 
however, to be civil, for the Dutch landlords and 
waiters often display wonderful ingenuity in teasing 
the petulant or assuming traveller. 

On cleanliness the tourist may generally de- 
pend. A beautifully white table-cloth with a 
silver fork and spoon will be put before him, and 
his sheets will rival the snow. 

The expense of living at the Dutch and Fle- 
mish inns is very moderate. At almost every re- 
spectable inn is an ordinary, at which all strangers 
usually assemble, and where many of the in- 
habitants of the town make their appearance. 
The charge will seldom exceed twenty-pence or 
two shillings, except at some of the fashionable 
hotels, and in this, fish, soup, roast and boiled 
meat, and desert are included. A bottle of ordi- 
nary Burgundy wine (which the traveller will 
find no contemptible beverage) will cost twenty- 
five pence more, and the host will be perfectly 
satisfied should his guest order but half a bot- 
tle. The expense of a comfortable and indeed a 
sumptuous supper, consisting likewise of fish, 
poultry, and meat, will not exceed eighteen-pence. 
In some parts of Holland, the traveller may pos- 
sibly be charged somewhat exorbitantly for this 



94 



THE BRILL. 



latter meal, because the Hollanders rarely eat sup- 
pers, and the stranger will be expected to pay for 
what he requires out of the usual way ; but in 
Belgium this meal will be comfortably provided at 
a moderate expense. 

Coffee is the favourite evening beverage of the 
Dutch, but it is generally water very slightly 
tinged, and drunk without sugar. With half an 
ounce they make no less than fifteen cups. The 
inn-keepers are perfectly sensible that foreigners 
drink their coffee much stronger, and ask 
whether the traveller prefers it made in the 
German way. He must then be careful to specify 
the exact number of cups which he wishes to be 
made with the favourite quantity of half an ounce, 
or he will have it brought to him much weaker 
than he has been accustomed to drink it in his. 
native country. 



SECT. V. Route from Helvoetsluys to Rotterdam. 

From Helvoetsluys the usual route to Rotter- 
dam is by the Brill, a fortified sea-port, and 
capita] of the island of Voorn at the mouth of the 
Meuse. The harbour can contain 300 vessels, 
and the number of inhabitants, most of whom are 
fishermen or pilots, is 3,100. It was taken from 
the Spaniards by the Dutch in 15T2, and the 
foundation of the Batavian republic was then laid 
here. It gave birth to the celebrated Admiral 



MAASLANDSLUYS. 



95 



Tromp, and the Vice-Admiral de Witt. Near it 
is the village of Rokange, famous for its petrefac- 
tions. A coach and a boat start every day for 
Rotterdam, and once a week for Amsterdam, the 
Hague, and Schiedam. The principal inn is 
the Golden Lion (Gov.de Leeuw). 

The road from Helvoetsluys to the Brill lies 
through a country resembling the fens of Lincoln- 
shire, planted with lofty trees, and interspersed 
with substantial farm-houses. The crops of corn 
and oats are here most abundant, but they are 
subject to be flooded ; and the intercourse between 
the different farm-houses is often rendered very 
circuitous or entirely cut off, by the rise of the 
water. The roads are, as may be expected, mi- 
serably bad. 

The distance from Helvoetsluys to the Brill is 
six miles. The usual mode of conveyance is by 
what the Dutch would dignify by the name of 
coach, but which more resembles a slight Eng- 
lish cart with a gaudy cover painted with different 
colours. 

From the Brill to Rotterdam is twelve miles, 
and the journey may be performed either by land 
or water. To travel by land it is necessary pre- 
viously to cross the ferry to Maaslandsluys. A 
boat constantly plies which will carry the passenger 
and his carriage, and which conveys the regular 
coach that runs from the Brill to Rotterdam. 

Maaslandsluys is a beautiful village, as 
populous as an English town, and enriched by 
the cod and herring fisheries. 

From Maaslandsluys to Rotterdam the road 



96 



FLAAKDING. 



leads through meadows and corn-fields, and the 
country presents a perfect and unbroken level. 
The traveller may here begin to form some idea 
of the general character of the northern provinces. 
They appear like an immense marsh or bog 
drained at certain intervals by canals and ditches. 
The canals, and even the rivers are discoloured 
with mud, and the former are dreadfully offensive 
in the summer. Yet even among these marshes, 
and notwithstanding the tedious and endless flat, 
the eye is relieved by innumerable trees, mea- 
dows, and gardens. The farm-houses, and the 
gardens and orchards immediately belonging to 
them, are usually surrounded by a green fence ; 
but in the meadows a hedge is almost unknown. 
The fields are divided by deep ditches filled with 
water, over which small bridges are laid, which 
open in the middle by a kind of trap-door that is 
raised and locked to a post. 

By far the most pleasant way from the Brill to 
Rotterdam, is to sail up the river. Schuyts or 
passage-boats sail every tide at low water, and 
reach Rotterdam in about three hours. The fare 
is exceedingly moderate. The river crowded with 
ships presents at every winding the most interest- 
ing views. 

On the left the traveller passes the little town 
of Flaardtng. It is the metropolis of the her- 
ring-fishers, and inhabited solely by them. Not- 
withstanding the intolerable smell of herrings, it is 
not inferior in neatness and cleanliness to any 
town in Holland. The inhabitants are remarkable 
for adhering strictly to the ancient national dress 



SCHIEDAM. 



97 



of two centuries ago. Their appearance is exactly 
such as is delineated in pictures of that date. 

Some storks are usually seen parading the 
streets of Flaarding, and waiting for the refuse of 
the fish. The Dutch are extremely partial to 
this bird, and would esteem it a heinous crime to 
destroy or injure one of them. They frequently 
place some wooden frames on the top of their 
houses, to entice the storks to build their nests 
there ; and the habitation that is crowned with 
<>ne or two of these nests is supposed to be protected 
from witchcraft, and various other perils. 

Further on, and more to the left, is Schiedam 
on a canal called the Schie. It is celebrated for 
its^ distilleries of Geneva. Before the Revolution 
300 houses were employed in this trade. 200 
houses are now constantly at work. Although the 
Geneva of Schiedam is so much and so deservedly 
praised, the process by which it is procured is 
extremely simple. It is nothing more than three 
successive distillations. The principal cause of 
its superiority probably is, that it is distilled 
entirely from wheat. The English distilleries 
chiefly use oats and barley. Schiedam contains 
9,000 inhabitants. 

The inns are, the Doelen, the Dutch Garden 
(Hollandse Tuyn), and the Stork fOyevaanJ . 
Boats set out every day for Delft and Rotterdam, 
and every week for Amsterdam, Bois-le-duc, 
Breda, Dort, the Hague, Haarlem, Leyden, Mid- 
dlebourg, and Utrecht. 

Nearer Rotterdam, and on the left, is Delfts- 
haven, greatly enriched by the herring fishery. 

K 



98 



ROTTERDAM. 



It contains a commodious port, and 2,700 inha- 
bitants. 

Two miles higher up the river is Rotterdam, 
at the influx of the Rotte with the Meuse. In its 
size, the beauty of its buildings, and its commerce 
and riches, it is second only to Amsterdam. The 
streets are intersected with canals bordered with 
trees, and sufficiently deep for the largest ships to 
unload at the very doors of the warehouses. The 
canals are deeper and cleaner than in any other 
town in Holland. 

In Rotterdam the peculiar style of Dutch build- 
ing is more than usually prevalent. The houses 
are composed of very small bricks. They are 
exceedingly lofty, and perfectly destitute of Gothic 
ornament, but sometimes present a confused and 
motley and clumsy mixture of several of the 
Grecian orders. They project forward as they 
ascend, so that many of them are two or three 
yards out of the perpendicular. The windows are 
enormously large, and most of the streets are so 
similar, that a stranger has much difficulty in 
finding his way. Many of the houses have look- 
ing-glasses projecting from both sides of the win- 
dows, that the inhabitants may see every thing 
which passes up and down the street. The noblest 
street is the Boom-quay, extending a mile and a 
half along the river. This street is the residence 
of the most opulent families, and the prospect from 
it over the river is highly delightful. The critic 
Bayle resided here. 

The Exchange is a plain handsome building in 
the form of an oblong square, with a covered walk 



ROTTERDAM- 



99 



on each side. The Stadt-house is an old brick 
edifice with a peaked roof, and much fantastic 
ornament. 

The cathedral of St. Lawrence is the only 
church worthy of notice ; but the walls are sad- 
dened by numerous ill-executed sable escutcheons, 
and the floor is covered with unpainted rush- 
bottom or deal benches. A magnificent brass 
balustrade of exquisite workmanship separates the 
choir from the nave. The organ was intended to 
rival that at Haariem, and is universally acknow- 
ledged to be a noble instrument. The monuments 
of Admirals De Witt, Brakel, De Liefde, and 
Kortenaar, are not ill-executed. The view from 
the tower includes almost the whole of South 
Holland. 

Rotterdam contains no good public collection 
of paintings, but a few private individuals possess 
some valuable cabinets, principally, however, con- 
fined to the works of the Dutch and Flemish 
masters. The most valuable are those of Messrs. 
Vanderput# Vanderpal, Lockhorst, and Severs. 
In the museum of the latter gentleman are found 
the original designs of those paintings of Rubens 
that enrich the galleries of the Luxemburg. A 
stranger who has been introduced to any respect- 
able inhabitant of Rotterdam, will easily procure 
admission to these collections* 

The great number of immense draw-bridges over 
the canals, contribute much to the pleasing appear- 
ance of the city, but when they are raised, the 
obstruction of the passage occasions crowds on 
each side. In the most frequented parts, the 
K 2 



100 



ROTTERDAM. 



bridges are entire and permanent, except for the 
breadth of three feet in the centre, where there is 
a plank opening on hinges. Through this opening 
the masts of small vessels are easily conducted. 

The number of inhabitants is about 53,000 ; 
and the peculiar commerce of Rotterdam is mad- 
der, geneva, and refined sugar. 

Amsterdam monopolizes the greater part of the 
commerce of those districts of Germany which are 
situated on the Rhine ; and Rotterdam of the 
countries bordering on the Meuse : but the trade 
in madder and geneva belongs almost exclusively 
to Rotterdam. 

The suburbs are very pleasant, and most of the 
wealthy merchants have country-houses near the 
city. The gardens are uniformly neat and lux- 
uriant ; but they appear as if they had been laid 
out by a mathematician. On most of the gates 
are mottos indicative of the character of the place, 
or the mind of the owner, as " Hope and Repose," 
" Very Content/' " Peaceful is my Garden/' 

The learned Erasmus was a native of Rotter- 
dam. His statue in bronze stands on an arch 
crossing one of the canals, and the house in which 
he was born is still shewn. 

In the port of Rotterdam, the ice breaks up 
sooner than at Amsterdam, and the tide will carry 
a ship into the open sea in two or three hours. 
The principal inns are the Boor's Head (Zwi/?i- 
shoqfd), the Marshal de Turenne, the Great and 
Little Schippershuis, the Doelen, and the Peacock. 
(Pawto). The Marshal de Turenne is kept by an 
Englishman of the name of Crabb, from whom his 



MODE OF TRAVELLING, 101 

countrymen will experience much civility and 
attention. 

A diligence sets out every day for Dort and 
Antwerp, and every two hours for Gouda. The 
fare to Antwerp is 9 florins 12 sous. It is neces- 
sary to take a place at the coach-office before nine 
o'clock on the preceding evening. A passage- 
boat goes every hour to Delft. A vessel sails once 
a week to almost every port in Holland. 



SECT. VL Mode of Travelling in 
Holland. 

Before the traveller quits Rotterdam on his 
tour of business or of pleasure, it will be ne- 
cessary to give him some information with 
regard to the mode of conveyance. He may pro- 
ceed by land in post-chaises; or he will find 
coaches established between all the principal 
towns. In some of the northern provinces, how- 
ever, the roads are execrable, and in many places 
almost impassable in the spring and autumn, when 
the rain and the fogs have increased the moisture 
of a soil naturally boggy and marshy, 

Voitur.es and Cabriolets. 

Neither the voiture (post-chaise), nor the 
cabriolet, (a chaise on two wheels), is remarkable 
for its beauty. The voiture has no shafts, but a 
piece of wood in the form of a bow or arch is 
placed between the wheels in front ; on this the 
postilion presses his feet, and by that pressure 
K 3 



10£ MODE OF TRAVELLING. 

gives the carriage the requisite direction. The 
horses are attached to the chaise by ropes, and 
are frequently driven three a-breast. On descend- 
ing any hill, few of which indeed occur, the pos- 
tilion places his foot on the croup of one of the 
horses, presses his back against the vehicle, and 
thus produces the effect of the breeching in the 
common English harness. 

When the Netherlands formed a part of the 
French empire, the rate of posting was hxed by 
the government ; and the traveller, by consulting 
a book, entitled ik Etat des Postes generaux," 
might calculate with great exactness the expense 
of his journey in any part of the country. These 
regulations are no longer in force, but the post- 
master demands what he pleases, and this demand 
is now understood to include all tolls and barriers. 
The usual charge is about a shilling per mile for a 
cabriolet, which will comfortably accommodate 
two persons, and in which three may travel with 
no great inconvenience. The price of a voiture 
varies from eighteen pence to one shilling and nine- 
pence per mile. The postilion will expect some 
compliment. Thirty sous, or two francs, for 
each post, will be quite sufficient. 

The traveller cannot be too careful that his 
luggage is properly fastened to the carriage, for 
the carelessness of the ostlers and postilions often 
exceeds all bounds. 

In Belgium the post-chaises are rather better 
constructed, and they are better adapted to Bel- 
gium than to Holland, where the canals serve the 
purpose of high-roads. 



MODE OF TRAVELLING. 10S 



The cabriolet, which is the more usual and 
convenient mode of travelling, is an uncouth but 
pleasant vehicle, running on two wheels. It is 
surrounded on the inside with numerous pockets, 
and on each side is a comfortable pillow. It is 
drawn by one or two horses. It opens in front, 
and has a window on each side. 

Whether the traveller proceeds in a voiture or 
cabriolet, he is subject to a regulation, which, if 
he has no feeling for the poor animals that draw 
him, he will deem a material inconvenience. At 
the distance of every six or seven miles a large 
building, like a barn, is erected on the road-side, 
with folding-doors at each end. The driver will 
halt here in defiance of threats or entreaties, and 
feed his horses with huge slices of bread from an 
enormous loaf, which the cabriolet always con- 
tains. If the weather be bad, the postilion drives 
into this barn, which affords no uncomfortable 
shelter for himself and his cattle. 

The Diligence. 

A diligence, or coach, or, as it is usually 
called, a post-waggon, is established between the 
principal towns of the Netherlands. To the lat- 
ter name it is best entitled, for it is built with all 
the strength of a waggon, and exhibits much of its 
clumsiness. It cannot fail of exciting many risible 
ideas in the mind of the traveller when he first 
sees it. It is not always suspended on springs, 
and is made very low and narrow ; yet the pas- 
senger will generally find sufficient room, and a 
tolerably comfortable seat. 



104 MODE OF TRAVELLING. 



The" diligence usually carries six or eight per- 
sons. Each place has its number, and the name 
of every passenger is registered. When he pays his 
fare, he obtains a ticket, on which is a number 
indicating where hers to sit. 

If more than the stated number of passengers 
apply for places for the whole of the journey, 
another vehicle is immediately procured, the fare, 
and the regulations of which are the same : so that 
the traveller need fear no disappointment in the 
prosecution of his tour. Persons, however, who 
wish to engage places for only part of the journey, 
are not thus accommodated, but must wait for the 
next conveyance. 

The diligence starts precisely at the stroke of 
the nearest clock. No entreaties will induce the 
coach to stay one moment for either passenger or 
freight. The traveller who has often complained 
of, and sometimes benefited by the irregularity of 
many English vehicles, will recollect the punctua- 
lity of the Dutch, and be careful that he does not 
forfeit his fare, which is always paid beforehand, 
and never returned. 

One caution is perhaps necessary with respect 
to the clocks in almost the whole of Belgium, and 
in part of Holland ; the hour is always struck 
twice, once at the proper time, and half an hour 
before it. This sometimes occasions inconve- 
nience, and uncertainty even with the natives, and 
the stranger may be easily misled by it. Most 
of the clocks likewise strike the half-hour, the 
quarter, and the half-quarter. 

If the diligence be so extremely punctual to its 



MODE OF TRAVELLING. 105 



time of departure, it is no less exact in the period 
of its arrival. Should the time appointed for the jour- 
ney be exceeded only five minutes, a fine is levied 
on the proprietor of the coach, and given to 
some public charity, unless he can prove that 
an accident, or unforeseen occurrence rendered 
it impossible for him to have arrived sooner. 

The passenger in the diligence was formerly in dan- 
ger of being suffocated by the smoke of his compa- 
nions, who, 'if they were Dutchmen, lighted their 
pipes as soon as they entered the vehicle. This 
nuisance is now much abated. No one is permitted 
to smoke, or even to take his dog in the diligence, 
without the full consent of his fellow-travellers. 
It is always in the power of a single person to 
forbid any practice unpleasant to himself or his 
companions ; and should any one offend after this 
remonstrance, he is fined six guilders, which are de- 
voted to the benefit of the charities of the town to 
which the coach belongs. 

The traveller should look carefully after his 
trunks, or they will be fastened in such an awk- 
ward and negligent manner, that they will be fre- 
quently cut to pieces by the shaking, or dropped 
or stolen on the road. He is allowed twenty 
pounds of luggage, and must pay four stivers for 
every additional five pounds. 

The expense bears about the same proportion 
to that of posting which it does in England. The 
slowness of the diligence is very tiresome to those 
who have been accustomed to travel in England. 
Its greatest rate, including stoppages, is seldom 
more jhan 3| or 4 miles an hour ; and almost 



106 MODE OF TRAVELLING. 



every hour or league the driver halts to re- 
fresh his horses and himself. 

In some of the great towns, and in the principal 
part of the southern provinces, the vehicles better 
deserve the name of coaches ; but they are no 
where celebrated for elegance, convenience, or 
expedition. 

The most pleasant part of the diligence, when 
the weather is not too cold, is the seat in the front 
of the outside, called the cabriolet. A projecting 
roof over it, and a leathern apron which may be 
raised as high as the waist, perfectly secure the 
traveller from wet. The fare is but little more than 
half that of the inside. The cabriolet carries two 
passengers and the conducteur, or person who has 
charge of the passengers and luggage, 
a \i ishsba^o *k> ym busod* i>nx ] r > atu-j 
The Trekschuit. 

The cheapest, the most convenient, and, gene- 
rally, the most pleasant mode of travelling, espe- 
cially in the northern provinces, is by the trek- 
schuit or passage-boat, on the canals. The whole 
length of the barge, which is usually thirty feet, is 
divided into two apartments or cabins, each about 
six feet wide and seven high. The larger room towards 
the prow of the boat, is for common passengers, 
and for the luggage, and will contain 30 or 40 
persons. The smaller cabin towards the stern, 
called the roef, is engaged at a rather higher rate, 
and holds but eight. The traveller will do well 
to secure the roef, for in the other cabin he will 
not always meet with a very select company, 



MODE OF TRAVELLING. 



107 



and he will be surrounded with an impenetrable 
cloud of smoke. The roef indeed does not afford 
a perfect security from the stench of tobacco, for 
the passengers in the next cabin smoke on one 
side, while the door of the roef opens close to the 
rudder, at which the master and his men are sta- 
tioned, and whose pipes are never out of their 
mouths. The whole of the roef may be secured 
at half-price, or by paying the fare of four pas- 
sengers. Places in the roef should be taken some 
hours before-hand, and if a passenger pays for 
one, or even two or three places, he will lose 
them if another comes and takes the whole cabin. 
At every change of horses the driver ( hetjagertie ) 
expects a few doights, and a stiver will abundantly 
satisfy him. 

The usual fare for a single passenger is about 
6 stivers per mile; and the vessel is towed with such 
regularity, at the rate of four miles an hour, that 
the Dutch oftener compute the distance from place 
to place by hours, than by miles. Travelling by 
the trekschuit is therefore attended with this con- 
venience, that the person may compute to a 
minute the time at which he shall arrive at every 
town. 

The roef has four windows, which slide up and 
down, (the other cabin has only leathern curtains or 
shutters), a table in the middle, a mirror, pipes, 
a spitting-box, and an iron*pot containing burning 
turf to accommodate the smoakers with a light. 
Except in the hottest part of the summer, when 
most of the canals become extremely offensive, the 
trekschuit is no ineligible conveyances Many of 



108 MO BE OF TRAVELLING. 

the country-houses of the Dutch are built near 
the banks of a canal, the gardens reach to the 
edge of the water, and display all their charac- 
teristic neatness and formality, and the principal 
canals are always crowded with, boats of various 
descriptions. If the country does not naturally 
afford any romantic or beautiful prospects, yet the 
ceaseless succession of objects is pleasing, and 
causes the time to pass quickly along. The motion 
of the vessel is likewise so gentle, lhat a person 
may write, or even draw 7 in it. 

Steam-boats are now establishing on many of 
the canals of Holland, the fare of which is even 
cheaper than the trekschuit. The prejudices of 
the people, however, violently oppose them, and 
many years will probably elapse ere they will be- 
come the usual mode of conveyance. 

Many of the trekschuits furnish the passenger with 
an ordinary at a very moderate price, and sufficiently 
varied, sumptuous and clean, to satisfy the most 
fastidious palate ; but unless this is clearly under- 
stood to be the case, the traveller should carefully 
provide himself with some provisions ready-pre- 
pared, for the trekschuit does not halt for any 
meal, nor is there convenience for cooking pro- 
visions on board. At every place, however, where 
the boats are changed, or any interruption occurs, 
women offer refreshments for sale, consisting 
principally of small loaves and slices of cold baked 
eels. 

The traveller should likewise take as little lug- 
gage as possible with him on board the trek- 
vdiuit. It should be contained in one portman- 



MODE OF TRAVELLING. 1QQ 



teau or parcel, so as to be easily conveyed from 
one boat to another when the schuyts are changed, 
for no little pre-concerted bustle and confusion are 
often made at that time, in the hope that some of the 
parcels may be overlooked and forgotten. All 
heavy baggage should be sent by one of the packet- 
boats, directed to the inn at which he intends to 
lodge. My reader will permit me once more to 
remind him, that he should, if possible, previously 
determine on the inn at which he will take up his 
quarters. He will likewise remember that in 
Holland, more than in any other country, the 
best inns are the cheapest ; and that he must 
always make his bargain beforehand with the por- 
ters who carry his luggage, or he will be liable to 
great imposition. 

The Beurt-scM'ppen. 

Another mode of travelling is by the beurt- 
sthippen. These are large vessels with two masts 
which navigate the lakes, or go coastways from 
port to port. In the summer, and when the 
weather is tolerably calm, they are very pleasant 
and cheap. They present four kinds of convey- 
ance. 1st. The cajidt, or cabin, in which a per- 
son of moderate stature may stand upright. It 
has a table in the middle, beds in the recesses of 
the wainscot, and will accommodate eight per- 
sons. 2d. The rotf is a hut, or cabin, built on the 
deck, and accommodates twelve persons with 
beds. ,3d. Between the decks is another set of 
passengers, who likewise have beds provided for 
L 



HO ZEALAND. 

them ; and in the hold, persons of an inferior 
description are stowed with the cargo. 

The fare of a cabin-passenger from Amster- 
dam to Lemmer, is a ducat ; and the passage 
usually occupies eight or ten hours. Wine, cof- 
fee, tea, and refreshments of almost every kind, 
may be procured on board these vessels at a rea- 
sonable charge. 

SECT. VII. Islands of Zealand. 

Having conducted the tourist to Rotterdam, 
and furnished him with full directions as to the mode 
of travelling, I will give a brief description of the 
Islands of Zealand, which cannot be conveniently 
included in any of the routes. 

Zealand derives its name from its situation, — ■ 
a land in the sea. While it is surrounded bv 
water, every part of it is many feet below the level 
of the sea, so that vessels approaching the coast 
can only see the tops of the spires, peeping above 
the immense dykes by which every island is sur- 
rounded. 

Zealand consists of nine islands, which ori- 
ginally formed part of the continent, or were 
separated by very inconsiderable branches of the 
Scheldt. In these islands the traveller will see 
the dykes of Holland in their utmost perfection. 
The soil of the province is exceedingly rich, but 
no considerable proportion of it is converted to 
pasturage. The favourite production of Zealand 
is madder, great quantities of which are exported 
to England, and every part of Europe. The cul- « 



WALCHEREN. — MI D BELBO U1G- Hi 



tlvation of this plant appears to be extremely pro- 
fitable, for every district of Zealand contains 
abundant proof of the wealth of the inhabitants ; 
and the houses of the farmers are the chosen 
abodes of plenty. 

Although the air has apparently no injurious 
effect on the natives, it is very prejudicial to 
strangers. The British troops had too fatal ex- 
perience of this in the unfortunate expedition to 
Walcheren. If the traveller spends much time in 
Zealand, he should constantly wear an envelope 
of flannel next to his skin \ he should adopt the 
custom of the Dutch, and have a pipe as often as 
possible in his mouth, and on the first symptom 
of indisposition he should take the Peruvian bark 
in as large quantities as his stomach will bear. 

Walcheren., at the mouth of theHondt or West 
Scheldt, is the most considerable of these islands, 
thirteen miles long, and eight broad. It contains 
several towns worthy the traveller's attention. 

Middelbourg is the capital of the island, and 
of the province. It is situated in nearly the centre 
of Walcheren. Few towns can boast of greater an- 
tiquity. It was called Medioburgum by the Romans, 
whence it derives its present name. It is nearly 
circular, containing 18,000 inhabitants, and com- 
municating with the sea by a canal capable of 
bearing the largest vessels. The squares and public 
edifices are magnificent, particularly the town- 
hall, which is a fine Gothic building and was for- 
merly an abbey. The place called the Abbaye is 
very grand. The superb church named Oostkerk, 
the observatory, and the promenade called Molen- 
L 2 



112 



FLUSHING.' 



, — VLISSINGEN. 



water, are worthy of notice. The invention of 
telescopes is attributed by some writers to Jansen, 
a spectacle-maker of this city. 

The chief inns are the Court of Holland ( Hof 
van Holland), the Golden Lion (Goude Leeim), 
the hotel of Middelbourg (Logcment Middelbourg), 
the Angel [Engel), and the Pear (Peer). 

A diligence goes every hour to Veere and Vlissin- 
gen ; and a vessel three times a week to Zieriksee, 
twice a week to Sluys, and once a week to Am- 
sterdam, Bergen-op-zoom, Breda, Goes, Gouda, 
the Hague, Haarlem, Heusden, and Rotterdam. 

Five miles s.s.w. of Middelbourg is Flushing. 
It is a town of great antiquity, containing 6,000 in- 
habitants, and is the principal defence of the en- 
trance of the Scheldt, and all the islands of Zealand. 
Flushing has a fine harbour, and the canal which 
runs through the middle of the town admits the 
largest vessels to the very quays. The stadthouse 
is a noble building, on the model of that at 
Amsterdam. The palace, built by William L, 
deserves attention. Flushing was taken by the 
English in 180$, and yet exhibits too evident 
traces of the injury which it received during the 
bombardment of the place. 

Not far from Flushing is Vlissingen, containing 
6,0u0 inhabitants. The harbour is commodious. 
In time of peace it carries on a considerable com- 
merce with England. It was the birth-place of 
the celebrated admiral de Ruyter. 

The best inns are the Angel (Engel), the Golden 
Apple {Goude Appel), and the Pear (Peer). A 
diligence goes every half-hour to Middelbourg, 



YE ERE.= — SOUTH BEVELAND. &C. 115 

and vessels every week to Amsterdam, Delft, Dort, 
Ostend, Rotterdam, and Zieriksee. Towards the 
E. and at the mouth of the harbour of Middelbourg 
and of the canal which separates Walcheren from 
Joostland, is the fort of Rammekens, but it ex- 
hibits nothing to attract the traveller from his route. 

At the northern opening of the same canal is 
Arnemuiden. It was once a large and flourish- 
ing sea-port, but now contains only 850 inhabi- 
tants. The harbour is choked up, and the salt- 
works are the only support of the place. 

Pursuing our course round the island, we next 
arrive at Veere or TerveIie, five miles of 
Arnemuiden. It has 1 ,900 inhabitants, and con- 
tains the finest arsenal in Zealand. The town- house, 
and the church of Notre Dame deserve notice. 
The harbour is excellent. It is the emporium of 
the principal commerce between Scotland and 
Holland. The principal inns are the Golden Crown 
(Goude Kroon), and the Tower [Tor en). 

Numerous villages occupy the n. and w. coasts 
of the island, but they are small and exhibit nothing 
remarkable, except Domberg, containing 700 in- 
habitants, and possessing some curious relics of 
antiquity. 

The island of Joostland lies e. of Walcheren, 
and is separated from it by a narrow canal. The 
village of Niewland is the principal place in it. 

To the east of Joostland is South Beveland, 
24 miles in length, and 7 in breadth. The only 
place of consequence which it contains is Goes, 
or Ter~Goes\ It has a considerable trade in salt, 
L 3 



1 14 SCHOWEN. — ZIERIKZEE. 



corn, and'metheglin ; and reckons 3,700 inhabi- 
tants. The great church is a handsome structure. 
A vessel sails twice a week for Amsterdam, Middel- 
bourg, Rotterdam, Tholen, Veere, and Zierikzee. 
The best inns are the Swan (Zwaari), the Golden 
Lion {Goude Lienw), and the Waterman's Hotel 
{Schipper-schuis). It is memorable for the extraor- 
dinary manner in which the Spaniards raised the 
siege of it by the Independents. They marched a 
body of troops seven miles through the water, from 
Bergen-op-Zoom across a ford that was never 
deemed practicable before, and that has never 
been attempted since. 

The islands of Wolfcrsdyk, North-Be veland, 
Duyveland, and St. Philip, contain nothing worthy 
of notice. 

The island of Schowen is separated from North- 
Beveland by the East-Scheldt. Its chief town is 
Zierikzee. The town-hall and great church 
should not be overlooked. Zierikzee was the 
ancient residence of the counts of Zealand, and a 
place of considerable consequence ; but the port 
is now almost filled with sand. One part of it was 
swallowed up by the sea. It is still, however, 
a trading and jjppulous place, containing 6,000 in- 
habitants. The people of Zierikzee were the first 
who went to fish for herrings in 1165. It subsists 
by the cultivation of madder, the brewing of mead, 
the manufactory of salt, and the herring and oyster 
fisheries. 

The chief inns are Fame (Faam) % the Golden 
Lion (Goudc Licuio), and the Great SahVpit (Groote 



ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. 115 



Zoate-keel). A vessel goes three times a week 
for Veere and Middelbourg, twice a week for 
Dort and Rotterdam, and once for Amsterdam. 

Browershaven 4s a seaport on the n. side 
of the island of Schowen, twelve miles s. w. of 
Helvoetsluys. Its name signifies, in Flemish, the 
port of the brewers. It gave birth to the grand 
pensionary Jacques Cats It contains only 700 
inhabitants, and subsists by the cultivation of 
madder, the making of mead, and some excellent 
breweries. The prospect towards the island of 
Goedcrede is very beautiful. The principal inn 
is the Admiral Evertz. 

The island of Tholen contains the town of Tolen 
or Tertolen. 

The island of Goree is n. of Schowen. The 
principal town is Goedereede or Goeree, contain- 
ing 700 inhabitants. It has a fine road, for 
shipping. 

I will now conduct the tourist through the dif- 
ferent towns of the northern provinces by the most 
frequented and pleasant routes. 



SECT. VIII. Rotterdam to Amsterdam. 

Pasts. Miles. 

Rotterdam to the Hague 21 13 J 

The Hague Post Brug 2§ 13 J 

Post Brug Haarlem 2£ 12$ 

Haarlem Amsterdam ...IS........ 9 J 

9 491 



116 



DELFT. 



The traveller will probably take some trek- 
schuit and embark on the canal of Schie, which 
skirts the post-road during the greater part of the 
way to the Hague. The fare to the Hague in 
the roefoi the trekschuit is 12 stivers. He passes 
on his left the small village of Overschie ; two 
miles farther is Ketel on the left, then Keneburg, 
both at a little distance from the canal ; and after a 
pleasant voyage of two hours, the canal on each 
side presenting a continual succession of neat but 
fantastic country-seats, and the water being literally 
crowded with boats of every appearance and de- 
scription, he arrives at Delft, nine miles from 
Rotterdam. 

This is an ancient glooray town, containing 
13,000 inhabitants. Most of the streets have a neat 
but sombre appearance, and are divided by narrow, 
stagnant canals ; which are, however, frequently 
cleaned out by means of numerous sluices. In the 
centre of the town are two spacious streets with 
broad canals bordered with trees. 

Delft was once celebrated for its potteries, the 
china from which was in great request throughout 
Europe ; but from the great improvement in the 
manufacture of China in England and Germany, 
the trade of this city has been almost annihilated. 

Delft gave birth to the learned Grotius, whose 
remains are deposited in the New Church. His 
monument is simple and elegant. It consists 
of a medallion representing the head of Grotius, 
and a child leaning on an urn with an inverted 
torch. The view from the steeple of this church 
is esteemed the finest in Holland, but the beauty 



DELFT. 



117 



of the scenery is principally at a distance. The 
country immediately surrounding the town is boggy, 
and clotted with piles of white turf. 

This building likewise contains a superb monu- 
ment to the memory of William I., prince 'of Orange, 
not to be exceeded by any piece of sepulchral mag- 
nificence of that age in Europe. On a beauti- 
ful sarcophagus is the recumbent figure of the 
prince, with his favourite dog reposing at his feet.* 
At the four corners are bronze statues of Liberty, 
Fortitude, Justice, and Religion. Under an arch 
at the head of the tomb, the prince is again re- 
presented sitting, and in full armour ; while at 
the other extremity, Fame, with expanded wings, 
is preparing to proclaim the triumphs of the 
deliverer of Holland. Above is a noble canopy 
of exquisite workmanship, supported by four 
buttresses of white marble, and numerous pillars 
of black and gold. Waving over these are the 



! * In the campaign of 1572, some Spanish troopers sur- 
prised the camp of the prince, and, overcoming the 
centinels tre ihey had power to sjive the alarm, silently 
and rapidly penetrated to the very tent in which Wiiliam 
lay sleeping-. In one minute he would have been num- 
bered with the dead, when his dog, alarmed at the ap- 
proaching footsteps which he seemed to comprehend 
were those of the enemy, sprung upon the couch of his 
master, and barking violently, and even scratching his 
face, awoke him to a sense of danger, from which he 
with extreme difficulty escaped. Having saved the life 
of his master, the attachment of the animal to him 
daily increased, and when the prince expired, the 
faithful dog refused to eat, and pined away, and died of 
a broken heart. 



J18 



RYSW1CK. 



various trophies and escutcheons of the house of 
Orange-Nassau. 

Near the Old Church is the identical house in 
which William I. was assassinated. The stair- 
case on which he fell, and the holes made in the 
wall by the bullets are yet shown. The remains 
of the philosopher Leuwenhoek, and the renowned 
Van Tromp are interred in the Old Church. 

The front of the Stadthouse is extensive and 
curious, and the apartments contain some valuable 
paintings. The principal arsenal of Holland is here.. 

The Doelen is one of the best inns in Holland, 
and is interesting to the traveller, as the scene of 
many of the councils and preparations of the Dutch 
patriots in their struggle against Spanish oppression. 
The Town-hotel (Stails/ierberg), and the Golden 
Mill {Vtrgitldt Molen), are good inns. 

Boats set out for the Hague every half-hour ; 
for Rotterdam every hour ; for Leyden and 
Maasluys every two hours ; for Amsterdam, 
Delftshaven, and VTaardingen, every day ; and 
for Arnheim, Antwerp, Bergen-op-Zoom, Breda, 
the Brill, Dort, Gertruydenberg, Gorcum, Gouda, 
Haarlem, Heusden, Middelbourg, Nimeguen, 
Schoonhoven,Vlissingen,and Zierikzee once a week. 

Embarking once mote on the canal, the traveller 
passes by Ryswyk three miles from Delft. The 
Princes of Orange had a palace here in which was 
signed the treaty of la'97, between England, Ger- 
many, Holland, France, and Spain, The house 
remains, but it has for many years been let to 
private individuals. 

The scenery at Ryswick, and indeed during the 



THE HAGUE. 



H'9 



whole route from Deift to the Hague, is as beauti- 
ful as a perfectly level country can possibly present, 

Leaving Voorburg on the right, the traveller 
arrives at the Hague, nearly five miles from Delft. 

Although the Hague is denominated a village, it 
yields to tew of the noblest cities in Europe in the 
beauty of its streets, the magnificence of its palaces, 
and the pleasantness of its situation. The principal 
street is called the Voorhout, but it is rather a 
series of palaces than a street. Several rows of 
trees are in the centre, with gravel walks beneath 
them, and a carriage-way on each side. These trees 
are preserved with as much religious care as those 
of the Royal Wood. The most beautiful part of 
the Hague is the Vyverburg, a vast oblong square, 
with a noble walk and an avenue of trees on one 
side, and on the other the palace and a large basin 
of water. The only drawback on the pleasantness 
of the Hague is the green and stagnant canals, 
which too often emit an almost pestilential stench. 

The Old Palace consists of an enormous pile 
of houses of every different architecture strangely 
jumbled together, yet the effect of the whole is 
not unpleasing. Its valuable museum of natural 
history, which was removed to Paris during 
the revolution, has been restored, or rather, by 
an amicable arrangement, a far richer collec- 
tion than the original has been formed from the 
duplicates of the grand museum at Pans. The 
minerals are not so numerous, and probably not 
so valuable as they once were, but this is abun- 
dantly compensated by the lengthened, and very 
complete catalogue of zoological subjects. 



1£0 



THE HAGUE. 



The New Palace was begun by William 111, 
before the Revolution. The long residence of a 
court at the Hague has rendered the appearance 
of the inhabitants less characteristic and national 
than in most other towns of Holland. Few per- 
sons are met in the streets who might not be taken 
for natives of England. 

The Hague is the principal residence of the King 
of the Netherlands, and the sittings of the States- 
general are held here alternately with Brussels. 

At the distance of half a league from the Hague, 
is the " Palace in the Wood," formerly the summer 
residence of the Princes of Orange, and erected by 
Amelia of Solms, widow of Prince Frederick- 
Henry of Orange-Nassau. The wood is two 
miles long, and three quarters of a mile broad, and 
exhibits a line display of magnificent oaks in all 
their native luxuriance. The Dutch regard them 
with almost superstitious veneration, and, during 
time immemorial, not a stick has been touched. 
This wood is the favourite walk of the inhabitants 
of the Hague, and the country here undulates a 
little, which is an unusual circumstance in this 
part of Holland. The house has nothing princely 
about it, but resembles the residence of a country- 
gentleman. The painted saloon, and the Chinese 
rooms are however truly magnificent. The 
gardens are altogether different from the Dutch 
taste. Instead of the straight walks which displease 
and tire so much in most of the Dutch gardens, a 
contrary extreme is here adopted. Every walk 
forms a zig-zag or a curve; it then suddenly takes 
an opposite direction, and leads to a spot far distant 



SCHEVEL1NG. 



121 



from what it atfirst seemed to promise. The traveller 
finds it a perfect labyrinth, while no object of taste 
or elegance compensates for his disappointment. 

The Hague was the birth-place of William III. 
king of England, Huygens the mathematician, 
and Ruysch the anatomist. It contains 35 5 000 
inhabitants. 

The hotel de Belle-vue is pleasantly situated 
opposite the park. The other inns are the Par- 
liament of England (Parkment van Engeland), 
the Marshal Turenne (which has the character of 
being a very excellent inn), the Golden Lion 
(Goude LeeuxvJ, the Two cities (Twee StedenJ, 
the Utrecht Arms (Wapen van Utrecht J, the New 
and Old Doolen, and the Amsterdam Arms ( W apen 
van Amsterdam J , the Court of Holland, the Golden 
Angel, and the Seven Churches of Rome. Vessels 
sail every day at one o'clock for Delft ; every two 
hours for Leyden ; once a day for Amsterdam and 
Rotterdam ; and twice a week for Arnheim, Alk- 
maar, Breda, the Brill, De venter, Dort, Gorcum, 
Gouda, Haarlem, Heusden, Kampen, Leeu- 
warden, Middelbourg, Utrecht, Vlissingen, Veere, 
Zieriksee, and Zwoll. 

The traveller will not leave the Hague without 
visiting the little fishing-town of Scheveling, 
two miles distant. An avenue perfectly straight, 
thickly planted with oaks and limes, and nearly 
two miles in length leads to it. The steeple of 
Scheveling is visible on the first entrance of the 
avenue. It consists of about 300 houses chiefly 
inhabited by fishermen, but presenting an appear- 
ance of neatness no where to be seen except in 
in 



122 



SORVL1ET. 



Holland* The beach is firm, and constantly 
crowded by pedestrians. The traveller will pay 
dearly for the fish which he may eat at Scheveling, 
unless he has the precaution to make his bargain 
beforehand. The sand-hills hinder the sight of 
the ocean, until the traveller is almost upon it, but 
he is then amply repaid by the suddenness and 
boldness of the scene which opens upon his view. 

The procession of the fish-merchants of Sche- 
veling to the Hague reminds the spectator of the 
peregrinations of the Kamtschatkans. A vast 
number of little carts are seen every morning 
proceeding to the capital, each drawn by two or 
three huge mastiff dogs, as tractable and as proud 
of their office, as the best-broken steed. In the 
evening they return, but the merchant now fills the 
place which his cargo had occupied in the morning, 
and his faithful quadrupeds cheerfully and safely 
draw him along, until he arrives at his humble and 
peaceful abode. 

The dress of the Schevelingers forms a strange 
contrast with that of the inhabitants of the Hague. 
It would scarcely be believed that mountains did 
not rise, and whole oceans roll between the abodes 
of each, or that the population of regions the 
most remote from each other had not, by some con- 
vulsion of nature, been thrown together. 

At a small distance from Scheveling is Sorg- 
vliet. The gardens and orangery are very beau- 
tiful, and exhibit none of that disgusting formality 
which usually characterizes the pleasure-grounds 
of Holland. The stranger should be aware of some 
not quite harmless tricks, which will, probably 



LEYDEIST. J2S 

be attempted to be played upon him in these gar- 
dens. As he passes over a bridge, and pauses 
on its centre to admire the interesting scenery 
around him, the guide will secretly turn a key, 
and numerous little fountains will spring up from 
every interstice of the pavement, from which the 
traveller will not be able to effect his escape, until 
he is wetted to the very skin. At the end of one 
of the walks he will be invited to sit awhile on a 
chair most invitingly placed, but no sooner is he 
seated than a jet of water springs from under the 
bench, and discomposes his dress, if it does not give 
him a complete drenching. 

The road now goes along the coast to Post- 
Brug : but probably the traveller will deviate to 
the right, and pursue the canal to Leyden, for 
which boats start from the Hague every two 
hours. He again passes within a short distance 
of Voorburg, and leaving Voorscheten on his left, 
six miles farther on, he arrives at this city eleven 
miles from the Hague. 

Leyden occupies the centre of a tract of 
country known by the appellation of the Rhyn- 
land, and which is frequently and justly described 
as the garden of Holland. The inhabitants make 
the best butter, drink the best beer, and eat the 
best bread in the United Provinces. The Rhyn- 
land presents to the traveller one uninterrupted 
scene of the richest cultivation, although somewhat 
too monotonous from its level surface, and from 
the very perfection of its agriculture. 

The city is built on the ancient bed of the Rhine, 
twenty-four miles s. w. of Amsterdam, and eon- 
M 2 



124 



LEYDEN. 



tains 50,000 inhabitants. That branch of the « 
Rhine which still retains its ancient name passes 
through the middle of it ; and from this stream 
such an infinity of canals are derived, that it is 
difficult to say whether the water or the land 
occupies the greater space. It is surrounded by 
a rampart adorned with beautiful shady walks, 
and defended by a broad and deep canal. The 
streets are intersected by canals, the most beautiful 
of which is the Rapenburg. The channels or 
gutters of this street are covered with boards that 
open like a trap-door, into which any dirt is re- 
moved the moment it appears, by persons ap- 
pointed for the purpose. The Rapenburg is one 
of the finest streets in Europe. 

Leyden contains no less than 145 stone bridges, 
equally subservient to the beauty of the place, and 
the convenience of the inhabitants. 

The subterranean sewers are very curious. One 
of them, nearly a mile long, receives a boat through 
its whole extent, for the purpose of cleaning it. 

The Town-hall is a vast Gothic building in an 
uncouth style of architecture, and surmounted by a 
small steeple. Some ancient armour, and other 
curiosities are to be seen here ; and in one apart- 
ment is the celebrated painting of the Judgment, 
by Huygens, who died at Leyden in 1533. In 
another apartment is the shop-board of Bucold, 
commonly called John of Leyden, the ambitious and 
ferocious leader of the Anabaptists. His portrait 
and that of his wife are likewise shewn, and a paint- 
ing representing his triumphal entry into Munster. 
The church of St. Peter contains some interest- 



LEYDEN. 



125 



ing monuments, particularly that of the celebrated 
Boerhaave. It consists of an urn placed on a 
pedestal of black marble. Around it are six 
figures representing the four ages of man, and 
the two sciences in which Boerhaave most excelled, 
viz. Medicine and Chemistry. On the base of 
the urn are ingeniously sculptured various em- 
blems of the diseases to which the human frame is 
subject, and their remedies. On one of the faces 
of the pedestal is a medallion of boerhaave with his 
appropriate and characteristic motto 
Simplex sigillum veri. 

Below is the following inscription 

Salutifero Boerhavii genio sacrum. 

The printer Elzevir, and the well-known painter 
Gerard Douw were natives of Leyden, and in 
the neighbourhood was born the inimitable Rem- 
brandt. The old castle of Altenbourg, with its 
labyrinth, its deep well, and delightful views ; 
the custom-house ; and the house for orphans 
deserve notice. 

The staple trade of Leyden, the woollen manu- 
factory, has suffered much from the war, and 
from the superiority of the Yorkshire looms. It 
must, however, be confessed, that the Dutch black 
cloths are of a deeper and better colour than the 
English. The camlets and baise of Leyden are well 
known. Much soap and indigo are manufactured 
here, and the neighbouring country produces the 
best butter and cheese. Some large manufactories 
of tiles and bricks are in the neighbourhood. 
M 3 



126 



LEY DEN. 



In 1807, a great part of the /town was de- 
stroyed by the explosion of a vessel laden with 
gunpowder. 

Leyden is famous for a siege which it sustained 
in 1573 against the Spaniards, when the women, 
animated by the example of Kennava, performed 
all the duties of soldiers. For seven weeks there 
was not a morsel of bread within the city. The only 
food was the roots of herbs and weeds, and the 
flesh of dogs and horses. These were soon con- 
sumed ; and the people were reduced to live on 
soup made of the hides of the animals which they 
had killed. To famine, pestilence succeeded, and, 
in the course of a few weeks, carried off many thou- 
sands of the inhabitants. They who survived were 
scarcely able to perform the mournful office of 
burying the dead. At length two carrier-pigeons 
flew into the town with letters tied under their 
wings, announcing that relief was at hand. These 
joyful messengers were embalmed at their death, 
and are still preserved in the Town-house. 

The States-general, filled with admiration of 
the heroic conduct of the burghers of Leyden, yet 
unable to bring into the field a sufficient force to 
attack the Spaniards with the smallest prospect of 
success, had formed the desperate resolution of laying 
almost the whole province underwater. Although 
the damage necessarily consequent on so extensive 
an inundation would be immense, and, probably, 
irreparable, they preferred to desolate their native 
land altogether, rather than suffer the Spaniards to 
triumph. They, therefore, earnestly began the 
demolition of those mounds on which their exist- 



LEYDEN* 



127 



ence as a nation depended. The waters of the 
ocean rushed violently in, and in a few days the 
whole region from Rotterdam to Leyden was 
overflowed. 

Jn the mean time numerous flat-bottomed boats 
were prepared, in which the Hollanders might 
proceed to the succoup of their brethren, over the 
new sea which they had created. 

To their unspeakable disappointment, the water 
rose only a few feet. It somewhat incommoded, 
but did not endanger the situation of the besiegers. 
The banks of the rivers and canals remained 
too strongly fortified to render any approach to 
the city practicable, and the blockade was con- 
tinued more closely than ever. 

From the walls of Leyden the miserable inhabi- 
tants could plainly discern the vessels that were 
destined for their relief, but they had the mortifi- 
cation to perceive that their nearer approach was 
absolutely impossible. Three sad weeks passed 
on, and the courage of those whom the sword, 
the famine, and the pestilence had spared, began 
to fail. Driven to despair by the actual view 
of succour so near, but which could not reach 
them, they ran in crowds to the house of the go- 
vernor, and tumultuously exclaimed, that he ought 
either to give them food, or surrender the town to 
the enemy. 

" I have sworn," replied the hero, " that I 
will never surrender myself, or my fellow-citizens 
to the cruel and perfidious Spaniards ; and I will 
die rather than violate my oath. Food, I have 
none, or I would give it to you ; but if my death 



LEYDEN. 



can be of use to you, take me, tear me in pieces, 
and devour me ; I shall die with satisfaction if I 
know that my death will benefit 'you, and protract 
your noble defence." 

His auditors gazed on each other silently, and 
with astonishment, and retired to their respective 
posts, determined rather to die of hunger, or to 
perish with their wives and children in the 
flames of the city, kindled with their own hands, 
than submit to the tyranny of the Spaniards. 

The equinox now arrived ; and one of those 
storms arose, which they used to contemplate with 
dread and horror. The wind blew tempestuously 
on their coast, and the sea, no longer restrained 
by those stupendous mounds that had before held 
it in subjection, rushed on the land, scattering 
desolation and death. The forts of the besiegers 
were surrounded or covered with water. The 
flood continued to rise, and the Spaniards fled ter- 
ror-struck from its fury, or found a watery grave. 

In the mean time the little fleet of boats, undaunt- 
edly and triumphantly advanced amidst the storm, 
and reached the gates of the city. The pale and ema- 
ciated populace ran as fast as their small remains 
of strength would permit, and many of them so 
greedily devoured the provisions which were thus 
miraculously conveyed to them, that what was in- 
tended for their relief proved their instant de- 
struction. Indeed, their stores of every kind were 
so completely exhausted, that, had the block- 
ade continued two days longer, they must all 
have perished. 

To commemorate the courage and fidelity dis- 



LEYDEN. 129 

played by the inhabitants of Leyden in this dread- 
ful siege, the Prince of Orange gave them their 
option, to be exempted for a certain period from 
taxes, or to have a university founded in their 
town. They nobly chose the latter. Never did 
any seat of learning spring from a nobler cause, 
and by the number of celebrated men which it 
has produced it has not disgraced the lustre of its 
origin. 

This university was the favourite resort of 
ingenuous youth from every part of Europe. It 
imposes no religious tests, no repulsive oaths ; and 
the examinations for academical honours are 
exceedingly severe and strictly impartial. The 
number of students was much diminished by the 
war, but the institution is now regaining its ori- 
ginal splendour. The cleanliness of the town, the 
salubrity of the air, the beauty of the country, 
the cheapness of provisions, the decent frugal 
manners of the inhabitants, the liberality of the 
institution, and the eminence of the professors are 
strong attractions, which are again rapidly filling 
these venerable halls with pupils. The number is 
now (Jan. 1818) about 300. 

The traveller will be surprised at finding so few 
public buildings attached to the Dutch universi- 
ties. They have very trifling endowed founda* 
tions ; the professors live in private houses, and 
the students in lodgings ; and the latter are dis- 
tinguished by no academic dress, as in the English 
and most foreign universities. The students enter 
here at a much earlier age than is usual in Great 
Britain. They are generally admitted when about 



130 



LEYDEN. 



fifteen or sixteen years old, and must pursue their 
studies five years before they can becomexrandidates 
for the lowest degree. j 

The illustrious Boerhaave was medical professor 
at this university, and the present lecturers are 
men of considerable reputation and talent. The 
anatomical school of this i institution is, however, 
said to be inferior to that of Amsterdam ; and 
possibly throughout Belgium the profession does 
not possess that eminence, or real skill which dis- 
tinguish the practitioners of Great Britain, and 
some other countries. The reason of this is suf- 
ficiently evident, although it will appear almost 
incredible to the liberal-minded traveller, and is 
certainly highly disgraceful to the inhabitants of 
the Netherlands. 

The regular fee of the most eminent Belgic 
physician seldom exceeds two shillings. A surgeon 
has but half of this inadequate remuneration. A 
medical man, therefore, must labour hard, and 
soon wear out his health and his constitution in 
visiting a sufficient number of patients to enable 
him to maintain the appearance of a gentleman, 
and decently support his family. If he is com- 
pelled to be thus constantly employed in a round of 
visits, he can have no time to study the respective 
cases of his patients, and accommodate his prac- 
tice to the various, and often contradictory symp- 
toms of each ; and if he is not thus constantly em- 
ployed, he must starve. It follows from this, 
that there is not sufficient inducement for men of 
talents to devote themselves to the medical profes- 
sion, or to undergo that laborious and expensive 



LEYDEN. 



131 



course of study, which is indispensably necessary 
to lay the foundation for real and lasting eminence. 

This seat of learning had only a few public halls, 
distinguished neither by their magnificence nor 
extent, but the present government is employed in 
rebuilding the university in a style more worthy of 
its origin, reputation, and utility. 

The botanic garden attached to the university 
occupies about four acres. The museum contains 
a noble collection of anatomical preparations, and 
the library is invaluable. Beside avast collection 
of printed books, amounting to 40,000, it has 
numerous Latin, Greek, and Oriental MSS., and 
all the manuscripts of the critics Scaliger, Vossius, 
and Erpenius. 

The cabinet of pictures belonging to the late 
catholic priest Mr. de Leyde is supposed to be 
the best in Holland. Mr. Gael has a noble col- 
lection of engravings ; and Mr. Brugman, a valu- 
able museum of natural history and comparative 
anatomy. 

The principal inns in Leyden are the Golden 
Ball (Goude BalJ in Broad-street ; the Amster- 
dam Arms fWapen van Amsterdam J; the Gelder- 
land Arms (Wapen van GelderlandJ ; the Golden 
Mill fVer guide MolenJ ; the Star f Star J ; the 
Sun fZon) ; and the Golden Lion ( Goude Leeuw Jo 

Diligences or passage-boats go every two hours 
for Delft, the Hague, and Haarlem ; three times 
a day, for Alphen, Meuden, and Utrecht; four 
times for Gouda ; once for Amsterdam and Rot- 
terdam ; and once a week for Alkmaar, Deventer, 



132 



CATWYK. 



Enkhuisen, Hoorn, Kampen, Leeuwarden, Schie- 
dam, Sneek, Vlaardingen, and Zwol. 

Five miles below Ley den are the extraordinary 
works of Catwyk. It is well known that the 
Rhine, after rolling its majestic stream so many 
hundred miles, finished not its destined course to 
the sea, but was disgracefully lost in the sands a 
few miles below Leyden. The country around, 
to a very considerable extent, imbibed the water, 
and an unproductive and pestilential morass was 
produced. The great convulsion that arrested the 
progress of this mighty river is said to have hap- 
pened in the year 860, when a dreadful storm 
heaped vast mountains of sand on this ill-fated 
coast. 

The inhabitants of the neighbouring districts 
early conceived the gigantic project of draining 
this morass, and conducting the waters of the 
Rhine to the ocean by a new passage : but insu- 
perable difficulties seemed to present themselves, 
and for many centuries the scheme was deemed 
too romantic for execution. The mouth of the 
new canal would necessarily be many feet below 
the level of the sea at high water; and it was 
thought impossible to construct any works that 
could withstand the immense pressure of the ocean, 
especially when agitated by the storms of winter. 
But having succeeded in so many bold encroach- 
ments on the empire of the waters, they at length 
ventured on this stupendous undertaking. By 
the ingenuity and perseverance of the Hollanders 
every obstacle was gradually overcome, and this 



HAARLEM. 



133 



mighty and beneficial project perfectly accom- 
plished. 

A canal was dug from the last branch of the 
Old Rhine to the sea, where it presented a triple 
row of sluices, so firmly built, and so ingeniously 
contrived, as to bid defiance to every storm. 
While the ocean presses on them from without 
they remain shut, but as soon as the tide has ebbed 
to a certain point, and the external pressure is 
removed, or weakened, the pressure of the accu- 
mulated water of the canal forces them open, and 
the Rhine disgorges itself into the sea. 

One post brings the traveller back from Leyden 
to the direct road at Post-Brug, and he will only 
have deviated from his way about three miles ; or 
he may embark on the canal of Vaart, and pro- 
ceed for Haarlem. The canal proceeds along the 
coast of Haarlem-meer at the distance of two or 
three miles. It leaves Overt-Geest on the left, 
and soon after Yoorhout on the right ; Sussenheim 
is likewise passed on the right ; a few miles farther 
is Kellegom, and Keemstede a mile beyond, soon 
after which we arrive at Haarlem. 

Haarlem is situated on the Haarlem-meer or 
lake, the water of which produces a brilliant 
whiteness on the linen bleached in it, which no 
chemical process can equal. 

The Haarlem-meer lies between Leyden, Haar- 
lem, and Amsterdam. It is about fourteen miles 
in length and breadth, and navigable through its 
whole extent ; but it is so exposed, and subject to 
storms, that vessels from Leyden to Amsterdam 
if 



134 



HAARLEM. 



generally go by the canal, which is a much longer 
but safer passage. 

The inhabitants of Haarlem are about 22,000, 
and the principal trade is bleaching thread and 
cambric. Great quantities of linen are sent here 
from the neighbouring provinces to be whitened. 
There are likewise very considerable silk and 
linen-manufactories. Haarlem abounds with spa- 
cious streets and handsome houses. It was once 
fortified, but the ramparts now form an agreeable 
promenade. The church is the largest in Hol- 
land. It possesses some interesting antiquities of 
the time of the Crusades ; and the finest organ in 
Europe, consisting of 8,000 pipes, and 68 
stops/ The vox hum ana stop has never been 
excelled. The museums belonging to the Aca- 
demy of Sciences, and the Teylerian Society at 
Haarlem are valuable. The electrical machine of 
immense power is well known. 

Admittance may be obtained to the museum of 
the academy every day except Sunday, from twelve 
o'clock until one ; and to the museum of the Tey- 
lerian Society, from twelve to one, and fromthree-to 
four, by addressing a letter to Mr. Van Marum. 
the director, in the Groote-Jiouts-straat. 

Not far from tlw church is the house in which 
lived Lawrence Coster, the inventor of printing, 
in the year 1430. A statue of him is placed on 
the front of the house. The first book which he 
printed is preserved in the Town-house, and is 
justly esteemed invaluable. Wouvermans and 
Berghem, the painters, were born here. 



HAARLEM. 



135 



Haarlem is much celebrated for the beautiful 
flowers which it produces. The tulips of this city 
are known in every part of Europe, and although 
the rage for flowers, which once proved so destruc- 
tive among the respectable families of Haarlem, 
and which furnished the inimitable La Bruyere 
with one of his characters, has almost subsided, 
50, or even 100 florins are no uncommon price 
for a single bulb of some rare variety. In former 
times one root was sold for more than 10,000 
florins ; and the aggregate sum produced by the 
sale of 120 tulips was 90,000 florins, or 6 J 501. 

The wood of Haarlem affords a pleasing walk, 
and contains the superb pavilion built by Mr. 
Hope, and now the residence of the Princesses- 
Dowager of Orange-Nassau and Brunswick. 

A favourite excursion of the inhabitants of 
Haarlem is to the country-seat of Hartekamp, 
where the celebrated Linnaeus formed his system, 
and where are yet two tulip-trees planted by him. 
The villages of Bloemendaal and Velsen, are like- 
wise often visited, between which are numerous 
sand-hills that afford a magnificent view of the 
North Sea on one side, and the richly cultivated 
pastures of Haarlem on the other, bordered by the 
river Y, and the lake of Haarlem. 

In 1572 this city was besieged by the Spaniards, 
and after baffling every attempt of the enemy for 
more than seven months, the inhabitants and gar- 
rison were reduced to the utmost extremity. When 
the magazines were completely exhausted, the 
people subsisted for awhile on the coarsest roots, 
and on the very grass. This at length failing, 
n 2 



136 



HAARLEM. 



their horses, dogs, and even animals the most dis- 
gusting were slaughtered and eaten. This hor- 
rible food was soon consumed ; and a convoy, 
which was hastening to their relief, was intercepted, 
and destroyed. 

Worn out by fatigue and famine, the garrison 
proposed to surrender, on condition that their lives 
should be spared, ' and the town not subjected to 
pillage. 

The son of the duke of Alva, who inherited no 
small portion of his father's barbarity, com- 
manded the besieging army. He peremptorily 
refused to accede to these conditions, and required 
that the Haarlemese should surrender at discre- 
tion. Alas, they had already too many proofs of 
what was implied by this. In every town that had 
thus thrown itself on the mercy of the foe, pil- 
lage ami murder had been let loose, and the streets 
had flowed with blood. 

Driven to absolute despair, the governor and 
garrison formed the resolution to leave behind 
them those who were unable to bear arms, and to 
cut their way through the enemy's lines. The 
women and the aged were no sooner informed of 
this dreadful determination, than they crowded to 
the gate whence the soldiers had appointed to 
make their sally. They threw themselves on the 
necks, or clung round the knees of their hus- 
bands, fathers, sons, or brothers, and implored 
them not to abandon those whom they had loved 
to the cruelty and lust of the enraged foe, but to 
permit them to share in this forlorn attempt, and 
to escape, or perish, together. 



HAARLEM. 



131 



The soldiers possessed the feelings of men. 
They melted into tears, and were unable to refuse 
their consent. The whole garrison was mustered. 
The stoutest of the warriors occupied the front and 
rear, and in the centre were placed the old men, 
the women, and children. They knew that it 
was impossible but most of them must perish. — 
" If we open our gates to the Spaniards," said 
their commander, as they were about to march, " we 
shall certainly be murdered in cold blood : and if 
we must die, is it not better that we, who have so 
nobly contended for our religion and our liberties, 
should fall bravely fighting in the field, than, strip- 
ped of our arms, and chained like criminals, to suf- 
fer an ignominious death upon a scaffold, or in 
a dungeon J? The drum beat to arms, and the 
gates were about to be opened, when a herald 
arrived from the Spanish commander, (who had 
been acquainted with their determination, and 
who justly dreaded what might be effected by 
those who were animated by despair), promising a 
full pardon to all, excepting fifty-seven. 

Among these fifty-seven were numbered some 
of the best patriots of Haarlem, and those who 
had most distinguished themselves by their cou- 
rage in its defence. The terms were hard and 
revolting ; and even in the hopeless situation of the 
Haarlemese, would have been instantly rejected 
with indignation, had not the German part of the 
garrison begun to mutiny, and had not these heroic 
men, who were proscribed and devoted to destruc- 
tion, urged the necessity of a surrender; and 
n 3 



138 



HAARLEM. 



prayed that by their sacrifice their fellow-citizens 
might be preserved. 

The conditions were accepted; the town was 
surrendered to the Spaniards, and the glorious 
band of patriots delivered up. 

For three days no act of violence was offered. 
The inhuman Alva then arrived, under the pre- 
tence of inspecting the fortifications ; but, in truth, 
to wreak his djabolical revenge. On the very 
evening of his arrival the 57 heroes were put to 
death, and not content with this sacrifice, QOO of 
the garrison were executed with every circumstance 
of ignominy: and when the citizens, terrified at 
these horrible scenes, attempted to escape from 
the destruction which might next fall on them, an 
indiscriminate massacre commenced. It continued 
until the executioners were literally tired of their 
murderous office : they then tied the remaining 
unhappy victims, two by two, and plunged them 
into the river; and even the sick and wounded 
were dragged from the hospitals and butchered. 

This inhuman cruelty will ever disgrace the 
name of Alva. It was as impolitic as barbarous. It 
inspired the Hollanders with rage and despair ; it 
led to the protracted defence of every town that 
was afterwards besieged, and particularly to the 
glorious defence of Leyden, which I have already 
described. Through the whole of the revolted 
provinces, one simultaneous oath was taken, to die 
rather than submit to such an enemy. 

The principal inns of Haarlem are the Golden 
Lion (Goude Leeuw), and the Amsterdam Arms 
Wapen van Amsterdam), A vessel sails every 



AMSTERDAM. 



139 



Lour for Amsterdam ; every two hours for Leyden ; 
and once a week for Delft, Deventer, Dort, Enk- 
huisen, the Hague, Gouda, Bois-le-duc, Hoorn, 
Leeuwarden, Middelburg, Rotterdam, Scheidam, 
Utrecht, and Zwoll. A diligence sets out every 
day for Alkmaar. 

The sluice that separates the river Y from 
the lake of Haarlem merits the attention of the 
stranger. 

The canal now suddenly takes an easterly direc- 
tion, passes between the northern point of the 
Haarlem-meer, and a branch of the Zuider-Zee, 
and after having for many miles been enlivened 
by the gardens on its banks, and a crowd of vessels 
on its bosom, arrives at Amsterdam. 

Amsterdam is seated on the conflux of the 
Amstel and the Y. It is of a semicircular form, 
9 miles in circumference, surrounded by a ram- 
part with a foss6 80 feet wide, and containing 
26,296 houses, and 205,000 inhabitants. 

It had no existence when many of the cities of 
Belgium were the residence of princes. No men- 
tion is made of it in history earlier than the year 
1272, when it was a deep and pestilential morass 
at the mouth of the Amstel, covered with a few 
fishermen's huts. The ingenuity and perseverance 
of the Dutch alone could have raised it to its 
present splendour. 

The whole town stands on enormous piles driven 
into the mud. Under the Stadt-house alone are 
J 3,660. It was in allusion to the forest foundation 
of Amsterdam, that Erasmus observed, when he 
first visited it, that he had reached a city the in- 



140 



AMSTERDAM. 



habitants of which lived like crows upon the tops 
of trees. 

As soon as the Amstel enters the city it is 
divided into two streams, from each of which in- 
numerable canals branch off, communicating with 
each other, and with the Y, and intersecting almost 
every street. These canals form 90 little islands, 
^ hich are connected together by 290 bridges of 
•wood or stone ; but none of them are w r orthy 
of notice except the Great bridge of the Amstel. 

However convenient these canals may be in a 
commercial view, they are the nuisances of Am- 
sterdam, for most of them being entirely stagnant 
and covered with filth, diffuse a noisome and in- 
supportable stench. The effect of this would be 
most pernicious were they not occasionally cleaned 
out. Mills are likewise constructed for the ex- 
press purpose of communicating some motion to 
the water in a few of the principal canals. 

A great quantity of soil is brought down by the 
Y, which threatens to choke up the mouth of the 
river, and injure the commerce of Amsterdam. 
To prevent this, several mills are erected, called 
Mud-mills, which are incessantly employed in 
drawing up the mud. Many of the streets are 
narrow and crowded, but in Emperor's-street 
(Kcyser's Graft), Lord's-street (Heere Graft), and 
Haarlem-street, the houses present a most princely 
appearance. 

The finest views of Amsterdam are from the 
great bridge of the Amstel, the New City Hotel 
(Nieince Stadsherberg), the island of Bicker (Bicker's- 
yland), and from the Zeeburg. The most beauti- 



AMSTERDAM. 



!4i 



ful walks are on the dyke called Hogendyk, the 
Plantation (Platitage), the Diemer-meer and the 
Slatuintjes ; the suburb called Overtoom, the 
banks of the Amstel, and the quay called Buiten~ 
kant, or Ygraft, and the fortifications of the city. 

The Palace, formerly the Town-hall or Stadt- 
house, built by James Van Campen about the 
middle of the 17th century, is one of the noblest 
structures in Europe. It presents nearly a square 
of 282 feet long and 255 feet deep. Its height is 
116 feet. 

The pediment in front exhibits some well exe- 
cuted allegorical figures. The principal one is 
the city of Amsterdam, under the character of a 
female seated on a car drawn by two lions. The 
figures of Neptune, and several other emblematical 
personages represent the commerce and opulence 
of the place. 

It has seven small porticos answering to the 
Seven United Provinces. The want of a princi- 
pal entrance is a great architectural defect. 

The tribunal on the basement floor, surrounded 
with every awful attribute of justice ; the great 
hall, and the Burgomaster's apartment with its 
paintings and exquisitely sculptured chimney- 
pieces deserve notice. Among the paintings which 
this noble building contains are the 44 Night Watch" 
of Rembrandt, in his best and very peculiar style ; 
and "The meeting of the Confederates," by the same 
master. " The Repast," by Vandyke is likewise 
justly esteemed. One of the heads is inimitable, 
and immense sums of money have in vain been 
offered to permit it to be cut from the picture. 



142 



AMSTERDAM. 



Most of the ornaments throughout the Stack- 
house are peculiarly appropriate. Over the door 
of the Secretary's apartment is the representation 
of a dog nearly famished watching the body of his 
murdered master ; and by his seat is the figure of 
Silence with her finger on her lips. Over the 
hall devoted to commissions of bankruptcy is a 
group representing Daedalus and Icarus, alluding . 
to the speculations which are the ruin of thousands. 
The prospect from the dome includes the whole 
city and its environs. The apartments and paint- 
ings of the palace cannot be viewed without a 
ticket. 

On the ground-floor are the strong apartments 
which formerly enclosed the vast treasures of the 
bank. Before the war it was supposed to con- 
tain a greater quantity of bullion than any other 
bank in the world. The pile of precious metals 
was once valued at 40 millions sterling. 

When money is to be drawn from the bank, it 
is necessary to send before 8 o'clock in the morn- 
ing, that the genuineness of the order may be ex- 
amined. On failure of this, the person will have 
to pay 3 or 4 sous. The following is the form 
of the order. 

Amsterdam, February \7th, 1818. 

Folio 

Messrs., the Commissioners of the 
Bank, will pay to A. B. fifty Florins. 

Florins 50. Signed C. D. 

The folio refers to the page in the bank-ledger 



AMSTERDAM. 



143 



in which the person's account is kept. The bank 
is shut for a fortnight in January and July, and 
a week at Easter, Whitsuntide, and Christmas. 

The present Hotel-de-ville, or Town-Hall w r as 
formerly called the Prinsenhof. The municipality 
of Amsterdam occupied it when Louis, the brother 
of Napoleon, fixed his residence at the palace. 

The Post-office is in the Voorburgwal behind 
the palace. Letters are daily sent to, and received 
from most of the provinces. They are despatched 
to almost every part of the continent on Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday, at 4 in the afternoon, and 
received on Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday 
mornings. To England and Ireland they are 
sent on Tuesday and Friday, at half past 7 in 
the evening, and received on the same days ; and 
to Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Hamburgh, &c. 
on Tuesday and Saturday at half past 7? and re- 
ceived about 6 o'clock on the same evening. 

Few of the churches of Amsterdam contain 
, any thing worthy of notice. They form a strange 
and disgraceful contrast with the noble edifices 
that arrest the attention of the traveller in almost 
every town in the Low Countries. The Old 
Church will perhaps be visited on account of the 
splendid altar-pieces which it contains, and the 
interesting monuments of De Witt, Kortenaar, and 
De Liefde. The pulpit is of acacia-wood, de- 
licately carved. One of the chapels surround- 
ing this immense edifice will be regarded by the 
liberal traveller as truly sacred ground. When 
the religious assemblies of the protestants were 
every where forbidden under pain of death ; when 



144 



AMSTERDAM. 



in every surrounding country the reformists were 
persecuted, despoiled and murdered ; and when, 
in the provinces of Belgium, thousands fell every 
year beneath the hand of the public executioner, 
the magistrates of Amsterdam, although catholics, 
and zealous for the faith which they professed, grant- 
ed this spot, with most commendable liberality, for 
the worship and burial of the Hamburgh pro- 
testant merchants. This was the first fruits and 
the pledge of that complete toleration and religious 
freedom by which the states of Holland have been 
so singularly and so honourably distinguished. 

The traveller cannot fail of being somewhat 
disgusted at the mean, and worn-out, and dirty 
benches, without even the slightest covering of 
paint, with which the body of the Old Church is 
filled. 

The New Church contains the splendid mauso- 
leum of Admiral de Ruyter. 

Amsterdam contains three large theatres. The 
Dutch theatre is open on Monday, Wednesday, 
and Saturday ; and the French theatre on Monday, 
Thursday, and Saturday. The German and 
Italian theatres are under the same roof. 

The Dutch theatre is principally confined to the 
performance of tragedy. Holland can boast of 
some respectable tragic authors. Comedy seems 
to be less suited to the genius of this people, and 
the comic pieces that are occasionally performed 
are seldom from the pen of native authors, but 
translated from the German or the French. The 
French theatre is more frequented, and exhibits 
greater variety. The actors on the German stag* 



AMSTERDAM. 



145 



are chiefly Jews ; and the Italian theatre is appro- 
priated to the opera and the ballet. 

In the Dutch theatre, in the interval between 
the acts, which at onetime exceeds an hour, most 
of the audience quit the house to take some re- 
freshment, and they who remain amuse them- 
selves with smoking. None of the Amsterdam, 
theatres admit persons at half-price, but a crowd 
of boys surround the avenues, who purchase the 
re-admission tickets, and sell them again. 

None of the theatres are often crowded, and the 
people of Amsterdam are less fond X)f these exhi- 
bitions than the inhabitants of most large cities. 
This does not, however, arise altogether from want 
of taste, but simply because there are fewer idle 
persons in Amsterdam than in most other towns. 

The Rondeel, which has been said to resemble 
and rival the British Vauxhall, consists of one 
large room well lighted, and a diminutive square 
court planted with trees, from the branches of 
which lamps are suspended. The principal amuse- 
ment of the place is dancing ; and although many 
of the dancers are of no equivocal character, the 
respectable merchants of Amsterdam join them 
without scruple, and without any impeachment of 
their moral character. 

The price of admission is one shilling, and, 
strange to relate, the Rondeel is most crowded on 
Sunday evening. 

In Amsterdam, and in most of the Dutch cities, 
it is usual in the evening, and especially after the 
play, to go to the Spiel-house or licensed brothel. 
The unfortunate girls are seated on both sides, or pa- 
o 



146 



AMSTERDAM. 



rading and dancing in the middle of a long hall, at 
the bottom of which are some musicians in a gal- 
lery. When a visitor feels an inclination I 
he nods to one of the girls, who immediately joins 
him. and the poor creature is obliged to drink and 
to dance at the pleasure of every new comer, as 
long as her strength will support her, or to retire 
at the beck of any debauchee, however disgusting. 

Nothing is demanded for admission, but 
visitor is expected to call for some wine or spi- 
rituous liquors, for which double the usual amount 
is charged ; and with this he generally treats 
some of the wretched females of the place. 

These brothels pay a heavy contribution to the 
government ; and are visited twice a week by a 
surgeon, and once a month by a police-officer. 

A thousand artifices are employed to decoy the 
unfortunate girls into these detestable houses. 
Having oncq crossed the threshold, a debt real or 
fictitious is rapidly incurred for dress and food. 
The immediate payment of this debt is soon pe- 
remptorily demanded ; and either by persuasion or 
threats, the hapless female is induced to sign an 
agreement not to quit the Spiel-house until the 
sum is liquidated. The keeper of the brothel thus 
acquires a legal right over his victim, and should 
she escape from his hateful tyranny he confidently 
appeals to the officers of the law. by whom she is 
violently seized, and inhumanly dragged back to 
the haunt of infamy. 

In vain she hopes gradually to repay the debt. 
The exorbitant charge made for every article with 
which she is supplied, and the habits of impru- 



AMSTERDAM. 



147 



donee and extravagance that she acquires, daily 
add to the original sum. In this loathsome prison 
she is confined, while her youth, her health, or 
her beauty remain ; and when these are fled, and 
her admirers desert her, and she can no longer 
contribute to the infamous gains of her tyrant, she 
is stripped of all her finery, and turned upon the 
world, destitute, diseased, and unpitied. 

Inconsistent as it may appear with the sober 
character of the Dutch, it is not unusual to .see 
the merchant with his wife and children at these 
abodes of iniquity. As the Lacedaemonians made 
their slaves drunk to inspire their offspring with 
an aversion to drunkenness; so the Dutch pa- 
rents carry their sons and daughters to the public 
and privileged brothels, to expose the infamy of 
prostitution and profligacy. It is, however, much 
to be feared, that these scenes will produce in 
lively and ardent imaginations impressions the 
reverse of what is intended. Many unhappy 
females have confessed that before they followed 
their parents to the Spiel-house, they were perfect- 
ly innocent, but that from what they observed at 
that place, their minds became corrupted long before 
their persons were debauched. The Dutch are so 
much prejudiced in favour of this preservative of 
chastity, that it avails but little to attempt to dis- 
pute with them on the subject. 

The stranger can scarcely pass through any of 
the principal towns of Holland or Belgium with- 
out being made acquainted with the existence and 
situation of these or similar houses of vice. Boys 
and men will often accost him in the street, and 
o 2 



148 



AMSTERDAM. 



offer to conduct him to the temples of debauchery, 
fluently and unblushingly expatiating on the charms 
of the dangerous inmates. Numerous cards of ad- 
dress will likewise be forced upon him by the 
priestesses of pleasure themselves or their agents. 

The number of licensed brothels is absolutely 
incredible. Rotterdam is said to contain 500, 
and Amsterdam many more. 

The Rasp-house, or House of Correction should 
certainly be visited. The government of these 
penitential abodes is admirably conducted. While 
every attention is paid to the real comfort of the 
prisoners, they are not permitted to be idle or dis- 
solute. If by their crimes they had offended the 
justice of their country, they are afterwards com- 
pelled to contribute to its revenue by their in- 
dustry; and the habits of orderly behaviour which 
they acquire in the Rasp-house are often retained 
through life. 

The traveller will probably be surprised at the 
number of prisoners that crowd the Rasp-house, 
and every place of confinement in Holland. More 
than a thousand persons are often enclosed within 
the walls of this house of correction. If, how- 
ever, he attributes this' to any deterioration in the 
morals of the Dutch, or supposes that criminal 
offences are more frequent in Holland and Belgium 
than in the neighbouring countries, he will judge 
hastily and uncandidly. 

The truth is, that the government of the Nether- 
lands is wisely and humanely sparing of the lives 
of its subjects Only crimes of the greatest atro- 
city are punished with death. The robber, the 



AMSTERDAM. 



149 



housebreaker, the forger, and the coiner, are con- 
demned to 5, 10, 15, or 20 years of imprison- 
/ ment, or, in extreme cases, are deprived of their 
liberty as long as they live. The policy of this I 
am not here called upon to defend, although that 
defence would be easy and delightful : I merely 
mention the fact, to account for the very great 
number of convicts that fill every maison-cie-Jorce, 
throughout Belgium. 

In one corner of the court-yard of the Rasp- 
house is a cell once used for the punishment 
of those who were otherwise incorrigibly idle. 
A pump is on one side, and a stream of water 
descends from the opposite side. If the prisoner 
does not incessantly work at the pump, he must 
inevitably be drowned. , 

The Workhouse, which is partly correctional 
and partly charitable, has no parallel in the 
world. While it affords a comfortable refuge for 
the poor, it is an admirable school for the reforma- 
tion of offenders. 

The correctional part is confined to those who 
have been guilty of slight offences. Some things 
are included in the list of these, which are scarcely 
cognizable by the English law, and the punish- 
ment of which in a summary way, however be- 
neficial in a political view, would not be tolerated 
in Britain. Husbands, on complaint of extrava- 
gance or drunkenness, duly proved, may send 
their wives to be confined and receive the disci- 
pline of the house. On the other hand, husbands, 
if guilty of the same offences, are equally liable to 
o 3 



150 



AMSTERDAM. 



punishment ; nor does the confinement terminate 
but with the apparent reformation of the prisoner. 
In one part of the building young lad its of the 
first families are imprisoned for undutiful be- 
haviour, or any other great domestic crime. 

Few cities contain so many public buildings 
devoted to the cause of humanity as Amsterdam. 
Nine hospitals and schools are established for the 
reception of orphans. The hospital for lunatics, 
near the Leyden gate, deserves particular praise 
for the mild, yet salutary and effectual regulations 
by which it is governed, so different from the bar- 
barous coercion that in almost every civilized 
country disgraces the abodes of the unfortunate. 

One" regulation established in most of the hospi- 
tals should be particularly mentioned, and the 
charitable institutions of other lands might adopt 
it with advantage. In the most extensive establish- 
ments, not more than two or, three regular nurses 
are retained, but the offices of kindness and atten- 
tion that are due to the sick, are, according to their 
circumstances and their strength, discharged by 
those who are convalescent. A . considerable ex- 
pense is saved, and they who have reaped the 
benefit of the institution, repay the debt of grati- 
tude in the most pleasing and effectual way. 
The comfort of the sick is likewise peculiarly 
studied, since they who have just experienced the 
need and the value of the benevolent assistance of 
others, are likely to prove the tenderest and most 
assiduous nurses. 

The Foundling Hospital, on the Princegraeft, 



AMSTERDAM. 



in 



into which infants are admitted without exposing 
the unfortunate parents, is said to contain nearly 
3,000 children. 

Among the public institutions of Amsterdam 
the Naval School will not be forgotten. Its title 
sufficiently explains its intention. It enjoys con- 
siderable funds, by means of which, the children 
of common sailors, properly recommended, are 
gratuitously educated ; while the sons of naval 
officers of every rank are admitted on the payment 
of 12 florins per month- All are fed, and clothed, 
and instructed alike, and from this school has 
issued almost every officer that has done honour 
to the Dutch flag. 

The society termed Felix Meritis was insti- 
tuted in 1777, and contains nearly all the literati 
of Amsterdam and the Netherlands. It is divided 
into five classes. The first is occupied by agricul- 
ture, commerce, and manufactures ; the second 
by the mathematics and natural philosophy ; the 
third by painting, sculpture, and architecture ; 
the fourth by music ; and the fifth by general lite- 
rature. Each class has its separate museum, 
library, and hall of assembly. 

The Lees-Museum, on. the Rokin, is an excel- 
lent literary institution. It contains most of the 
native and foreign journals, and the newest and 
best publications in every living language. It is 
composed of 300 members ; and a stranger, intro- 
duced by a member, may frequent the rooms, as 
long as he pleases, without expense. 

At the library of Mr. Dufour, No. 139, on the 
Rokin, the traveller will find a good collection of 



152 



AMSTERDAM. 



French and English books. The Dutch and Ger- 
man publications may be met with at Guhks, 
No. 24, Kalverstraat. 

The Botanic Garden of Amsterdam is large and 
well stocked, but it contains few rare or curious 
plants. Four stivers are paid for admittance. 

Near the Workhouse is the Plantation, a large 
piece of ground divided into numerous little gar- 
dens with pretty cottages, and summer-houses ; 
and the whole surrounded by canals. Some of the 
principal roads, and the most frequented walks, 
iie through and near it. Many of the Dutch 
merchants smoke their afternoon-pipe, and the 
females sip their tea, or work in these open sum- 
mer-houses, apparently deriving as much plea- 
sure from seeing and being seen as any other peo- 
ple in the whole world. 

The Exchange is a handsome and commodious 
building, and even in the most disastrous period of 
the late war, presented a little less crowded ap- 
pearance than the Exchange of London. 

The port is so wide, that though both sides are 
thronged with shipping, the channel in the middle 
is at least as broad as the Thames at London- 
bridge ; but the harbour does not extend to more 
than half the length of the Pool at London. 

A carriage of a very curious and ridiculous ap- 
pearance is much used in Amsterdam. It consists 
of the body of a coach placed upon a sledge and 
drawn by one horse. It is encouraged by the 
magistrates in preference to wheel-carriages, that 
the piled foundations of their city may not be 
shaken. The fare is 8d. for any distance within 



AMSTERDAM. 



153 



the city, and Sd. per hour to the driver for his 
attendance. 

The principal inns are the Doelen in Doelen- 
street, the Rondeel at the coiner of the same 
street, the Doelen on the Garnaalen Markt, the 
.Amsterdam Arms (IVapen ran Amsterdam), the 
Swan (Zwaan), the Mint (Mvnf), the Imperial 
Crown (Reisers Kroori), the City Lion {Stadt 
Leemc), the First Bible, the Second Bible, the 
New Heerenlogcmcnt, and the New Stadsher- 
berg. In the neighbourhood of Heere and Key- 
sets Graft, comfortable ready-furnished lodgings 
may be procured at a reasonable rate. 

Coaches ,and boats daily start for almost every 
part of Holland and Belgium. The principal 
offices are the New Heerenlogmient , and on the 
Haarlemmerdyk. Places may be taken at either 
of these offices, or at that of the commissioners, 
No. 123, Regnliersdzvar.straat. The traveller will 
recollect that the coach starts precisely at the 
stroke of the nearest clock. It likewise leaves the 
commissioners' office half an hour before its de- 
parture from the inns. 

Nine hours are allowed for the journey to 
Alkmaar, 18 to Arnheim, 20 to Breda, 12 to 
Delft, 10 to Gouda, 44 to Groningen, 11 to the 
Hague, 32 to Middelburg, 14 to Rotterdam, and 
8 to L'irecht. 

The gates of Amsterdam are shut at half-past 
four in the winter, and at a later hour as the days 
lengthen and the summer advances. From the 
beginning of May io the beginning of August, they 
are open until half-past ten, but persons may be 



154 



SAAKDAM. 



admitted until half-past eleven on paying one 
stiver. After that hour, 10 stivers are exacted 
from each passenger, and six stivers for every horse. 
The gates are opened at seven o'clock in the morn- 
ing in winter, and at four in summer. 

Before the traveller quits Amsterdam he should 
visit Saardam. The houses of this village are 
principally built of wood. They are painted with 
various colours, and a little fantastic baby-sort of 
garden is attached to each. Here were formerly 
vast magazines of timber, but comparatively few 
ships are now built at Saardam. The hut in 
which Peter the Great worked as a common ship- 
wright is still shewn. 

In 1696 that singular personage presented 
himself at Saardam in the dress of a sailor, and 
hired himself as a shipwright to one of the build- 
ers. He ate, drank, slept, and worked with the 
other carpenters ; and by his jocularity, and a 
certain superiority which he could not quite con- 
ceal, acquired the name of " Master Peter/' 
Several weeks elapsed ere it was suspected that 
Master Peter was any thing more than a journey- 
man shipwright : but when it was at length disco- 
vered that the Czar of all the Russias was concealed 
under this mean appearance, his companions began 
to treat him with the respect due to his rank. 
Master Peter, however, insisted that all their 
former familiarity should be resumed, and con- 
tinued to associate with them, and to work like 
them, until he had become a good pilot, an ex- 
cellent shipwright, and had thoroughly acquainted 
himself with the construction of every part of a 



BROEK, OR BROCK. 



155 



ship of war. The reader well knows what use he 
afterwards made of the knowledge which he had 
thus acquired at Saardam, and at Woolwich, where 
he adopted a similar disguise. 

The wealth of Saardam now arises from its nu^ 
merous tobacco, paper, and sawing-mills. They 
are worked by the wind, and exceed 2,300 in 
number, each of which is neatly, though often 
grotesquely painted. Some of them will cut 40 
planks at once. 

Frequent excursions are made to Saardam from 
Amsterdam. It is generally best to hire a boat, 
for which eight or nine florins are paid. The pas- 
sengers in the common boat are not always the 
most select, nor the watermen very civil. The 
view of Amsterdam, when about half a mile from 
land, is extremely beautiful. It will be necessary 
for the traveller to agree positively with the boat- 
man at what hour he will return from Saardam, 
and that he shall be taken back again to his very 
inn, otherwise the owner of the boat will not want 
pretexts for returning much too early for the tra- 
veller's pleasure, and for leaving him at a consi- 
derable distance from his hotel. They dress ex- 
cellent fish at the Loutre, but a previous agree- 
ment should be made for the price. 

The singular and beautiful village of Broek or 
Brock, should not be forgotten. The streets are 
divided by little rivulets, paved in mosaic work 
with variegated bricks, pebbles, and shells, and 
kept in such exquisite order, that a dog or cat 
are seldom seen to trespass upon them. Carriages 
are not permitted to enter the village, and it is said 



156 



ZIEST. 



tjiat a law formerly existed, which obliged passen- 
gers to take off their shoes in summer as soon as 
they entered it. The houses are about 300 in 
number; they are painted green and white, and 
are most whimsical in their shape and appearance. 
Each stands in the centre of a small garden, 
curiously laid out. The walks are bordered with 
shells, and bits of glass of different colours gro- 
tesquely, yet prettily arranged. The shutters of 
the front windows are generally closed, and the 
principal entrance is seldom opened but on the mar- 
riage or death of one of the family. The inha- 
bitants scarcely ever admit a stranger within their 
doors, and hold but little intercourse with each 
other. One inn is at the entrance of the village, 
and it is the only house the interior of which a 
stranger has the least chance of seeing. 

Near Amsterdam is Soetsdyke, where was for- 
merly a favourite sporting chateau of the Orange 
"family, but scarcely better than an English coun- 
try mansion. The forest affords many pleasant 
scenes, and is the resort of numerous parties from 
Amsterdam. 

Near Soetsdyke is Ziest. The French troops, 
under General Marmont. erected a vast pyramid 
here in honour of Napoleon. Its height is 110 
feet, and each side of the base is 148 feet long. 
It commands a noble view over the surrounding 
country. Ziest is a handsome town, with agree- 
able plantations and pleasant walks, much fre- 
quented by summer parties from Amsterdam. 
The principal object of curiosity is a spacious 
building containing a numerous society of 



ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. 1,57 

Herenhuthers, or Moravians, whose singular man- 
ners and opinions are well known. 



SECT. IX. Route from Rotterdam to Amsterdam 
through Gouda. 

Posts. Miles. 

Rotterdam to Gouda ' 2\ . ... 12| 

Extra charge for a 3d horse. 
Gouda to Alphen 2\ . ... 12| 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Alphen to Liemuiden 1| .... 8| 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Liemuiden to Amsterdam 2| .... 13 1 

8| "17" 



If the traveller be so disposed, or for the sake 
of variety, he may pursue this route from Rotter- 
dam to Amsterdam ; but if he goes post, he will 
find the roads exceedingly heavy and bad, and will 
be obliged to pay for extra horses. There is no 
direct conveyance by the diligence, and the passage 
by water is circuitous. This road likewise will 
afford little worthy his attention, except the 
village of Alphen, the most beautiful in this part 
of the country, and supposed to have been the 
Albiniana Castra of Antoninus, or the camp of 
Alphenus Varus, the Batavian General, mentioned 
by Tacitus; and the town 1 of Gouda, with the 
p 



158 



GOUDA. — OU DEN WATER. 



delightful country round it. It is situated on the 
Yssel, at the influx of the Gouw, 12| miles n. e, 
of Rotterdam, 

The principal trade is in yarn, tow, tobacco, 
and pipes. Of the latter there were once no less 
than 300 manufactories. It contains 1 2,000 in- 
habitants. The church of St. John the Baptist 
is much admired. Its painted glass, by the bro- 
thers Crabeth, is supposed to be the first in Europe. 
One painting is inimitable, representing our Sa- 
viour in the temple at twelve years of age. Ketel 
the painter, who employed his toes as well as his 
fingers, was born here. 

The whole country for many miles round Gouda 
may be inundated in a few hours by means of 
enormous sluices, which the traveller will probably 
visit. 

Gouda is surrounded by several delightful 
villages, particularly Moordrecht, Gouderak, and 
Booskoop famous for its nursery grounds. A dili- 
gence starts every two hours for Rotterdam, and 
vessels three times a day for Utrecht ; every day for 
Amsterdam and Dordrecht; four times a week for 
Leyden ; three times for Schoonhoven and Oudcn- 
water ; and once for Delft, Goes, the Hague, 
Haarlem, Bois-le-duc, Middelbourg, Montfoort, 
Nimeguen, Schiedam, Veere, Ylissigen, and 
Woerden. The principal inns are the Salmon 
Zalm) and the Doelen. 

A passage-boat goes three times a week from 
Gouda to O u den water eight miles to the e., 
containing 1,600 inhabitants, It has many rope- 
yards, and a prodigious quantity of hemp is grown 



AMSTERDAM TO THE HELDER. 159 



in the neighbourhood. The celebrated Arminius, 
the founder of the sect of Arminians, was born at 
Oud en water. 

The Doelen is the best inn. A passage-boat 
goes three times a week to Gouda, and once a 
week to Amsterdam, Leyden, and Utrecht. 

Five miles n. of Oudenwater, on the banks of the 
Rhine, and on the road from Leyden to Utrecht, 
is Woerden, a strongly fortified town, cortaining 
2,600 inhabitants. It has some beautiful boule- 
vards and promenades. The best inn is the Town- 
Hotel (Veer-huis). 

The French committed many atrocities here in 
the revolution of 1813. 



SECT. X. Route from Amsterdam to the Helder. 

Posts. Miles. 



Amsterdam to Haarlem 1| .... 9% 

Haarlem to Beverwyk 2J .... 12§ 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Beverwyk to Alkmaar 2§ .... 13J 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Alkmaar to Zand 3| .... 18 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Zand to the Helder 2J «... 133 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 

horse. 12* 67J 



160 



BEVERWYK. 



The traveller may go from Amsterdam to • 
Haarlem by the route already described, and 
thence proceed by a daily coach to Beverwyk and 
Alkmaar ; or a boat which sails every day will 
take him direct to Beverwyk by an arm of the 
Zuyder-Zee. In the former case, he will leave 
Bloemendaal a little to his left, two miles and a 
half beyond Haarlem ; six miles farther on he 
will pass through the village of Velzen, four miles 
from Bewerwyk, or Beverwyk.' 

Beverwyk is a small town on the Y, near the 
Zuyder-Zee, containing 1,600 inhabitants. The en- 
virons are very beautiful, enriched with numerous 
country-seats of the principal merchants of Am- 
sterdam. It has some vinegar manufactories, and 
a large house for the reception of lunatics. The 
principal inn is the Heerenlogement. A stage 
passes through it every day for Haarlem and Alk- 
maar, and a boat starts every day for Amsterdam. 

Five miles beyond Beverwyk, the road lies 
through Aitgeest. It then leaves Kastrikum, and 
afterwards Bakkum on the left. Opposite Bakkum 
is Limmon on the right, and six miles and a half 
beyond Aitgeest the road passes through Koilo. - 
To the left are the three villages of Egmont-binnen, 
Egmont-aan-Zee, and Egmont-op-dcn-Hoef. The 
latter was once a considerable town, but was de- 
stroyed by the Spaniards in 15/3. It now exhibits 
extensive and picturesque ruins. The noble family 
of Egmont, celebrated in the struggle for Dutch 
independence, derived its origin from this village. 

The road has hitherto skirted the sea at the 
distance of three or four miles, and will continue 



ALKMAAR. 



161 



to do so as far as the Helder. Some pleasing, 
but not grand views of the ocean, now and then 
occur, but in general the sand-hills which line the 
shore conceal it from the view. 

Two miles beyond Koilo is Alkmaar, a neat 
and pleasant town, containing 8,300 inhabitants. 
A little wood in the neighbourhood, called Alk- 
maarden-hout affords a charming promenade, and 
the boulevards likewise form a delightful walk. 
Alkmaar is celebrated for the noble resistance 
which it made against the Spaniards in 1573. In 
1799 the disastrous expedition to Holland ter- 
minated here by the surrender of the British army 
to the French. It is much visited in summer, on 
account of its flowers, particularly its tulips. The 
principal trade is in corn, butter, cheese, and 
nets, the making of which employs most of the 
inhabitants. Alkmaar possesses a very decent 
theatre, a concert-room, and other places of 
amusement. 

The pleasing round visage, fresh complexion, 
sparkling eyes, and simple but tasteful and be- 
coming dress of the peasant girls in the neighbour- 
hood of Alkmaar, will not be overlooked by the 
traveller. The chief inns are the Doelen, the 
Castle (Burg), and the Heerenlogement. A boat 
leaves Alkmaar for Amsterdam every day, and 
coaches for Haarlem, Opmeer, and Spanbroek : 
for Zyp, ISiiedorper, and Verlaat, twice every day; 
for Oudskarspel four times a week; Medenbiik twice 
a week, and Schagen, three times a week. 

The road now leaves Outderp on the right, 
Bergen on the left, and three miles and a half 
p 3 



162 



THE HELDER 



■ — THE TEXEL. 



from Alkmaar lies through Koedyk. Schoorl, 
Groet, and Camperdown, are now successively 
passed on the right. The last village is celebrated 
for the victory obtained off this coast by Admiral' 
Duncan over the Dutch in 1797- Krabbendam 
now occurs on the left, and Engerburg on the 
right, after which the traveller arrives at Zand, 
which contains nothing remarkable. Some miles 
beyond Zand he leaves Kalansoog on the left. 
The road is soon afterwards enclosed between the 
ocean and the Zuyder-Zee, and the traveller pro- 
ceeds for many miles along an isthmus not two 
miles broad, affording continual and sometimes in- 
teresting views of both seas. 

The Helder at which he now arrives, is a 
strong fort defending the entrance of the Texel. 
It was taken by the English in •1799? but soon 
afterwards abandoned. 

Opposite to the Helder is the Texel, at the 
mouth of the Zuyder-Zee. The passage between 
them is called Mars-Diep. The entrance to it is 
very dangerous, particularly in rough weather, on 
account of two sand- banks called the Noorder 
and Zuyder Haaks, between which it is necessary^ 
to pass. An e. or n. e. wind is most favourable 
for the attempt. 

When the passage has been effected, the eastern 
side of the Texel affords a safe and commodious, 
harbour, called the road of Moscow. 

The island of the Texel possesses a fertile soil. 
The sheep are numerous and celebrated ; and 
with the milk of these animals they make a cheese, 
which forms their principal luxury, although to the 



THE ZUYDER-ZEE, 



165 



stranger it has a very disagreeable taste. The prin- 
cipal villages on the Texel are Burgh, Ooster- 
einde, YVcster-einde, Hoorn, and Schilt, but they 
exhibit nothing remarkable. 

To the n.e. of the Texel are the islands of 
Vlieland, Schelling, and Ameland. shutting up 
the mouth of the Zuyder-Zee, and only leaving 
very narrow and dangerous passages. These were 
evidently once united to the continent. The pe- 
riod at \yhich they were dismembered is unknown. 



SECT. XI. Voyage from the Helder to 
Amsterdam. 

If the traveller does not proceed from the Hel- 
der to Leeuwarden and Groningen, he may return 
to Amsterdam by one of the vessels which daily 
traverse the Zuyder-Zee, between the Texel and 
that city. He will then have an opportunity of 
visiting, or seeing at a distance some pleasant 
towns on the western coast of the Zuyder-Zee. 

The Zuyder-Zee, or as its name signifies, 
the South-Sea, fills a large space between the 
provinces of Friesland, Overyssel, Guelderland, 
and North-Holland. In the time of the Romans 
it did not occupy one-fourth of its present extent, 
but it has been increased by successive inunda- 
tions, the periods of which are unknown. The 
industry of the Dutch has, however, opposed an 
effectual barrier to its further encroachments. 

After passing the island of Wieringen, and se- 
veral little ports, the first place that occurs 



164 



ENKHUYSEN. 



deserving notice is Medenblik, containing 2,000 
inhabitants. It has three ports capable- of holding 
300 vessels. The chief trade is in timber brought 
from Norway and Sweden. The remains of an 
ancient castle are Seen here, said to be built by 
Redbond, King of the Frisii, and the town was 
once the capital of North Holland. The inns are 
the Red Lion f Roocle LeeuwJ and the Town of 
Hoorn ( Stadt-HoomJ . A diligence goes every 
day to Hoorn ; and a vessel twice a week to 
Alkmaar and Amsterdam. The land is here con- 
siderably lower than the sea. 

Sailing by Opperdoes, the next place which 
occurs is Enkhuysen. A century ago it was a 
flourishing sea-port, but the harbour is now 
choked with sand. It is beautifully situated,- and 
by means of a canal yet commands considerable 
trade, particularly in salt-fish. It has likewise a 
large cannon-foundry. The town-hall scarcely 
yields to any in Holland. It contains 6,800 inha- 
bitants. 

Boats go to Hoorn twice a day ; and a vessel 
sails once a week for Alkmaar, Amsterdam, 
Deventer, Franeker, Harlingen, Hasselt, Kampen. 
Leeuwarden, Leyden, Rotterdam, Sneek, Sta- 
veren, Steenwyk, the Texel, Vlieland, and ZwolL 
The principal inn is the Court of Holland. 

Next appear the little villages of Beek-karpsel, 
Verhuizen, Leek, and Schelanckkout, after which 
is the town of Hoorn. 

The villages between Enkhuysen and Hoorn 
succeed each other so rapidly, as to form an almost 
uninterrupted succession. 



HOOKN. — EDAM PURMERENDE. \65 

^ Hoorn is a considerable sea port, with a good 
harbour. The principal trade is in cattle, which 
they import from Denmark, butter, cheese, and 
beer ; and its herring fishery is valuable. Many 
ships are built here. The first net for catching 
herrings was used at Hoorn. 

The celebrated navigator, Shoutens, who in 
l6l6 discovered Cape Horn, and gave it the name 
of his native town, was born here. 

It contains 9,600 inhabitants. The neighbour- 
ing country is very pleasant. The chief inn is the 
Ship on the Stocks f Onvolmaakti-Schip J x Dili- 
gences and vessels set out every day for Amster- 
dam, Alkmaar, and Enkhuysen. 

Not far from Hoorn are the villages of Tchar- 
woude and Schardam, seven miles to the s. of 
which is Edam, on the Ee, 12 miles n. n. e. of 
Amsterdam, containing 2,700 inhabitants, and fa- 
mous for its red-rind cheeses. Much salt is like- 
wise made here, and a considerable trade is carried 
on in fish oil. The surrounding country was for- 
merly a lake. It is absurdly said that a mermaid 
was kept several years at Edam, which was taught 
to spin, and perform several domestic offices. 
Boats go every day to Amsterdam; four times a 
day to Hoorn, and six times a day to Monniken- 
dam. The Heerenlogement is the principal inn. 

Ten miles w, of Edam is Purmerende, con- 
taining 2,400 inhabitants, and situated at the ex- 
tremity of the marsh formerly called Purmer. 

The tract of land now denominated the Bcemster, 
and which produces the finest mutton in Holland, 
* was once a great lake, and was drained by the indus- 



166 



MON NIKENDAM. 



try of the inhabitants of Purmerende. The vast un- 
dertaking was commenced in 1608, and com- 
pleted in four years. Some idea may be formed 
of the difficulties that were surmounted, when it 
is recollected that this part of the country is per- 
fectly flat, and many feet below the level of the sea 
at high water. 

The principal commerce is in timber, hides, 
cheese, horses, and cattle. The Heerenlogement is 
a good inn. Passage-boats go every day to Am- 
sterdam, Edam, and Hoorn. 

Sailing from Edam, the traveller passes by Vol- 
lendam, and soon perceives Monnikendam, a 
beautiful village, containing about 2,000 inhabi- 
tants, whose principal trade is herrings, soap, and 
silk. It derives its name from a neighbouring lake, 
called Monnikenmeer. Monnikendam has twice 
been burned to the ground. 

The chief inn is the Doelen : and a passage- 
boat goes every day to Amsterdam and Edam. 

Opposite to Monnikendam is the island of 
Marken. Passing the little port of Witdam, we 
arrive at the entrance of the harbour of Amster- 
dam. A bank of sand, called the Pampus, chokes 
its entrance, but the industry of the Dutch can 
overcome every difficulty, and almost accomplish 
impossibilities. 5 A machine somewhat resembling 
an enormous chest, l60 feet in length, is filled 
with water, and attached to each side of the vessel. 
The water is then driven out, the machine rises 
and bears the vessel with it, which is thus ele- 
vated four, five, or six feet, and passes safely over 
the sand. 



MtYDEN.— NAARDEN. 



167 



To follow the western coast of the Zuyder-Zee 
by land, forms as pleasant an excursion as any 
that Holland affords. The villages are so close to 
each other, that they seem to form one conti- 
nued garden. 



SECT. XII. Visit to Naarden, 

During his stay at Amsterdam, the traveller 
will probably visit Naarden, which, on account 
of its importance, if not its beauty, should not 
be overlooked. He should embark on the canal, 
and not on the Zuyder-Zee. After passing near 
the mouth of the harbour, he arrives at Muyden, 
containing about 1,000 inhabitants. It is sur- 
rounded by lofty dykes, and pleasant walks, and 
possesses some antiquities. The principal inns 
are the Porpoise (BruinvisJ and the Prince of 
Orange. 

Two miles farther is the village of Muiderberg, 
celebrated for a curious echo which seems to pro- 
ceed from the ground. 

Four miles s. of Muyden, is Wesep, containing 
about 3,000 inhabitants. The country is very fer- 
tile and pleasant. The Currycomb is an excel- 
lent inn. 

Four miles beyond Muiderberg is the small, 
but strong town of Naarden, containing 1,800 
inhabitants. In the 12th century it was destroyed 
by a sudden inundation. The foundations of the 
ancient town are yet to be seen at low water. In 
1572 it was taken by the Spaniards, and all the 



168 AMSTERDAM TO UTRECHT. 



inhabitants, without the distinction of age or sex, 
were put to the sword. 

It is at the iiead of the principal canals of 
South Holland, and is reckoned the key of the 
country. The principal manufactures are velvets 
and cloths. The chief inns are the Court of Hol- 
land fHofvan Holland J, the Spread Eagle, fDub- 
bkden A rend J 9 and the Imperial Crown (Keizers 
KroonJ. A passage-boat goes six times a day 
to Amsterdam, and three times a week to Amers- 
foort. 



SECT. XIII. Route from Amsterdam to 
Utrecht. 

Posts. Miles. 

Amsterdam to Loenem 2f .... 13 a 

Loenem to Utrecht 2§ .... 133 

— J5 

The traveller will find it more pleasant and less 
expensive to proceed to Utrecht by water. A boat 
sets out from Amsterdam three times every day. 
He passes through the villages of Ouwerkerk. 
Abcou, Baambrugge, Loenersloet, Loenem, Nieu- 
mershiis, ^a small fortified town) Breuketen, 
Maarson, and Zullen, the banks of the canal 
being covered with gardens and country seats ; but 
nothing occurs of sufficient consequence to delay 
him on his journey. 

Near to Utrecht the houses encroach so much 
on the canal, that it is impossible for a horse to 



UTRECHT. 



169 



pass along the narrow-paved footway. He is, 
therefore, unyoked from the treksehuit, and his 
place is generally supplied by, what the traveller 
would deem a very unsuitable substitute, an old 
woman. She, however, tows the boat along with- 
mueh cheerfulness, without any great apparent 
effort, and at a tolerably brisk rate. 

Utrecht, built on a rising ground on the 
banks of the lUune, is one of the most beautiful 
cities in Holland, next to the Hague. It boasts of 
very great antiquity, and was known to the Ro- 
mans by the name of Irajectum Ulpii, so called 
from Ulpius Trajan. It was one of the principal 
fords of the Rhine. 

The banks ol the canals are steep and high, and 
the water is twenty feet below the street. The 
access to them tor the servants of the adjoining 
houses rs by a subterranean passage. These 
canals are much ne^ecteri, and covered with every 
kind of offal, which is left to putrefy on their 
surface. The mall is a pleasing walk, more than 
a mile in length, and bordered with several rows 
of noble trees, with a carriage road on each side. 
The ruins of the cathedral afford a fine specimen 
of Gothic architecture. One aisle remains, 
scarcely injured by time. In this divine service is 
regularly performed. The tower is 464 feet high, 
and from its top fifty-one walled cities and towns 
may be seen. The view is said to be the most 
extensive in Europe. 

Utrecht was once a rich and powerful see, the 
bishops of which were sovereign princes. Too 
often they laid the crosier aside, and assuming the 
Q 



4 



170 



UTRECHT. 



sword, waged bloody warfare with their rivals, the 
prince-bishops of Liege. 

The university of Utrecht was formerly highly 
celebrated, but the number of students is now 
much diminished. There is as little appearance 
of a university here, as at Ley den. The students 
have no academical dress, and their halls, which 
are used only for lectures and examinations, are 
formed of the cloisters of the ancient cathedral. 
The famous peace of Utrecht in 1713 was signed 
in one of the halls of the university. 

The town-house is a noble structure. The num- 
ber of inhabitants is 32,000. The principal ma- 
nufactures are woollen-cloths, bleaching, bricks, 
silk, and fire-arms. The environs are full of 
gardens and pleasant walks, which, added to the 
purity of the air, make Utrecht a very agreeable 
place of residence. 

Pope Adrian VI., the tutor of Charles V., was 
born here. Gronovius the critic, and Graevius, 
his pupil, resided at Utrecht. 

The best inns are the Old and New Castle of 
Antwerp ( Kasteelvan AntwerpenJ, and the Gilded 
Chariot ( Vergulde Wagen). 

Diligences go every day to Arnheim, Amers- 
foort, Bois-le-Duc, Breda, Deventer, Gorcum, 
Leerdam, Nimeguen, Rhenen, Thiel, and Zut- 
phen. Vessels sail three times a day for Amster- 
dam, Leyden, and Gouda, and twice a week for 
Bois-le-duc, Dort, the Hague, Haarlem, Mid- 
delbourg, Rotterdam, Schiedam, and Schoonhoven. 
Travellers should be careful to enter Utrecht before 
nine o'clock in the evening. The gates are then 



UTRECHT TO GRONINGEN. 171 

shut, and even a silver key will not always succeed 
in opening them again. 

SECT. XIV. Route from Utrecht to 
G roningen. 

Posts. Miles. 



Utrecht to Amersfoort 2} .... 12§ 

Amersfoort to Leuveium 4 .... 22 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Leuvenum to Zwoll 4 .... 22 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse 

Zwoll to Meppel 4 .... 22 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Meppel to Steenwik 2 J .... 13 J 

Steenwik to Heerenveen 3 J .... 18 

Heerenveen to Leeuwarden 3| .... 19} 

Leeuwarden to Dorkcum. 3£ .... 19} 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Dookcum to Stroobos 2} .... 12§ 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Stroobos to Groningen .... 3 .... l6| 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 

horse. 



32} 177f 

Utrecht being in the centre of Holland is a 
convenient place from which to conduct the tra- 
veller to those parts of the northern districts, 
Q 2 



172 



AMERSFOORT. 



which he has not yet seen. This route will con- 
tain every thing interesting in the provinces of 
Utrecht, West Friesland, and Groningen. 

Three miles from Utrecht is the village of De 
Bilt, after which the road lies through a country 
not well peopled as far as Amersfoort. The 
most remarkable places in Amersibort are the 
port, the town-hall, and the principal market. 
Goods of German manufacture are usually shipped 
here for Amsterdam. It contains some woollen 
manufactories, bleaching grounds, and plantations 
of tobacco. Its manufactories of dimity and boni- 
bazeen are well known. The walks in the neigh- 
bourhood are exceedingly pleasant. The number 
of inhabitants is 8,600. 

Amersfoort is built at the foot of a little eminence 
watered by the Ems. It was the binh-place of 
the celebrated pensionary Barneveldt ; who, after 
having been chiefly instrumental in rescuing his 
country from the Spanish yoke, and havms faith- 
fully and zealously served her 40 years, was be- 
headed at the age of 70, for this worthy cause, 
that he was an Arminian. An interesting anec- 
dote is related of his widow. His sons, Hene and 
William, consoired to revenue his death. The 
conspiracy bein<^ di^covere^, William Med, hut 
Rene was taken and condemned to die. His 
mother solicited his pardon of Prince Maurice. 
u It appears strange," said he, " that you do that 
" tor your son, which you lefused to do for your 
" husband.'' To this she i obly replied, " I did 
" not ask pardon for my husband, because he was 
u innocent. I ask it for my son because he is guilty/' 



XOO. HATTEM ZWOLL. ]?3 



The chief inns are the White Swdn(JVitte Zwaari), 
the Golden Swan (Goude Zwaan), and the Red 
Lion (Roode Leeuw). A boat leaves Amersfoort 
everyday for Amsterdam. A coach goes to Utrecht 
four times a week, and once a week to Zwoll. 

Hence to Leuvenumthe road is sandy, and Heel 
and Kemmenaare the only villages that lie near it. 

Leuvenum, or as it is better known by the 
name of Loo, is celebrated for its magnificent 
palace. The gardens and fountains are much 
admired, particularly one called the bath of Venus. 

Half-way between Loo and Zwoll is the village 
of Heerden ; and a few miles from Zwoll, on the 
left bank of the Yssel, is the town of Hattem. 
It contains 2,000 inhabitants. The church has 
been much admired. r l he neighbouring country 
produces abundance of fine cattle, and affords some 
beautiful prospects. Much tobacco is cultivated 
near Hattem. The chief inn is the Angel (Engel). 
A diligence starts every day for Elbourg and Arn- 
heim ; and a vessel once a week for Amsterdam. 

On the other side of the Yssel is Zwoll, on an 
eminence on the river Aa, with a population of 
12,000 souls. It is a strong and well-built town. In 
a convent in the neighbourhood Thomas k Kempis 
lived 71 years, and died here. The church of 
St. Michael deserves the attention of the traveller. 
The carving of the pulpit is much admired. The 
principal inn is the Court of Holland (Hof van 
Holland). A diligence goes daily to Deventer and 
Groningen; and twice a day to Amelo and Amers- 
foort. A boat goes every day to Amsterdam ; and 
once a week to Enkhuysen, Haarlem, and Sneek. 
Q3 



V 

174 OMMEN, — HARDERWYK. — ELBURG. 

Fourteen miles e. of Zwoll isOmmen, contain- 
ing 700 inhabitants, and supported by its mills 
and linen manufactories. 

Half-way between Amersfoprt and Loo, a road 
branches off to the left, which, skirting the eastern 
coast of the Zuyder-Zee, passes through Harder- 
wyk, and again joins the direct road atHattem. The 
country is here more pleasant, and the neighbour- 
hood of the sea, with frequent interesting views of it, 
often induces the traveller to prefer this route. It is 
a mile or two farther, and the road, though afford- 
ing many fine prospects, is not very good. 

Leaving the little port of Bernkamp to the left, 
and the village of Telg on the right, and passing 
through Horst, the traveller arrives at Harder- 
wyk. It contains 3,6*00 inhabitants, and a univer- 
sity. It carries on considerable trade in corn, wood, 
and fish. The church of Notre Dame is a magnifi- 
cent structure. Its lofty tower serves'as a sea-mark. 
The ocean is rapidly encroaching on the neighbour- 
ing country, and appears to threaten Harderwyk 
with no very distant destruction. Some beautiful 
walks and fine prospects are in the neighbour- 
hood, and the town is said to abound with an 
unusual number of ladies of pleasure. 

A diligence goes every day to Loo, Deventer, and 
Zutphen ; and twice a week to Arnheim. A vessel 
sails every evening for Amsterdam. The principal 
inns are the Arms of Zutphen [Wapen van Zutphen) 
and the Amsterdam Arms {Wapen van Amsterdam). 

Twelve miles north of Harderwyk is Elburg, 
containing 1,800 inhabitants. It carries on a con- 
siderable fishery, and has some large decoys for 



HASSELT.— CAMPEN GENEMUiDEN. 175 



wild fowl. A vessel sails three times a week for 
Amsterdam ; and a diligence goes twice a week to 
Haarlem. The Hare (Haatf) is the principal inn. 

The country now becomes very interesting, and 
the villages of Hierde, Russel, Boomspyk, and 
Elbing rapidly follow each other, after which 
the road branches to the e. and proceeds to Hattem. 

Six miles beyond Zwoll,the roadcrosses the river 
Vecht, on the banks of which is Hasselt, con- 
taining 1,100 inhabitants. The church is a beauti- 
ful structure. The best inn is the Shepherdess 
(Herderin). A passage-boat goes every day to 
Zwoll; toEnkhuysen and Kampen every Monday ; 
and a vessel three times a week to Amsterdam. 

Eight miles west of Hasselt is Campen, formerly 
a place of considerable consequence, and belonging 
to the Hanseatic league ; but the port is now almost 
filled with sand. The principal inn is the Court of 
Holland. A passage-boat go^s twice a day to Zwoll, 
and a vessel three times a week to Amsterdam. 

From Hasselt the traveller proceeds ekher in a 
boat on the Vecht, or by the road which runs 
close along the bank, to Zwartsluis, three miles to 
the s. w. of which, and on the other side of the 
river, is Genemuiden, a small town on the 
Zuyder-Zee, with 1,000 inhabitants, and support- 
ed by the manufacture of nets. The principal 
inn is the Peacock (Pauw). 

From Swartsluis there are two routes to Leeu- 
warden, one through Meppel and Steenwyk, on 
which alone post-horses are to be procured, and a 
more circuitous, but more interesting way through 
Vollenhoven, and round the coast. I will describe 
them both. 



176 MEPPEL,— STEENWYK . — LEEU WARDEN. 

The post road, and likewise a canal branches off 
to the right to Meppel. This town contains 3,650 
inhabitants. It is chiefly supported by a manufac- 
tory of canvass, and by a great number of wind- 
mills. 1 he principal inn is the Savage (Wildeman). 

Between Meppel and Steenwyk nothing occurs 
deserving of notice. Steenwyk contains 1,800 
inhabitants. The church of St. Clement is a 
handsome building. 1 he place subsists by agri- 
culture and breweries. A passage-boat goes every 
week to Amsterdam, Blockzyl, and Enkhuysen. 

Soon after leaving Steenwyk the province of 
East Fricsland begins. The soil of Friesland is in 
general very fertile, and much wheat is grown on 
the high grounds. The cows and sheep are said to 
be unusually fruitful ; the latter are shorn twice in 
the year, and the wool is much esteemed. The 
Frisians are strongly attached to all their ancient 
usages and customs. The traveller will immedi- 
ately perceive a difference in their dress and ap- 
pearance, from those of the inhabitants of the pro- 
vinces which he has already visited. 

From Steenwyk to Lee u warden the route lies 
through a fruitful and not unpleasant country, but 
no place of consequence occurs. The two nearest 
villages to Leeuwarden are Warseg and Goutum. 

Leeuwarden on the Ee, eighteen miles e. of 
Harlingen, has 1 6,000 inhabitants. It carries 
on an extensive trade owing to the canals which 
communicate with the sea. The Town-hall is a 
noble modern edifice. The streets are spacidus, 
well-built and intersected by canals. The prin- 
cipal ^church is a venerable structure ; the ramparts 
afford a delightful promenade ; and the situation of 



VOLLEN HO VEN.-BLOCKZYL.-STAVEREN. 1 77 



the town is extremely pleasant. The principal inns 
are, the Heerenlogement, the Vineyard (Wynberg) 
and the Falcon. Passage-boats set out four times 
a week for Bolswaert, Dokkum, Franeker, Har- 
lingen, and Sneek ; and once a week for Amsterdam, 
Enkhuysen, Groningen, Haarlem, and Lemmer. 

I will now return to Zwartsluis. The traveller 
may embark here, and pursue the eastern coast of 
the Zuyder-Zee as far as Harlingen, where a canal 
will conduct him to Leeuwarden : or he may take 
the road which beautifully follows the windings of 
the coast. 

Seven miles from Zwartsluis is VollenhovjTnt, 
containing 1,000 inhabitants. The castle, which 
was frequently used as a prison, formerly stood 
alone, but some houses were afterwards built near 
it; these by degrees increased to a little town, 
with a tolerable trade in grain, cattle, and fish. 
Many ruins are seen in the neighbourhood. The 
best inn is the School (School). Vessels go every 
week to Amsterdam, Campen and Zwoll. 

Four miles to theN. is Blockzyl at the mouth 
of the Aa. The port is capable of containing 200 
vessels. The principal inn is the Tower of Gro- 
ningen. 

Passing Kuynder and Lemmer, at a distance of 
20 miles is Slooten,- near a lake called Slooten- 
meer. The number of inhabitants is only 560. The 
environs are fertile,- and the lake abounds with 
fish. 

Ten miles to the e. is Staveren. It was once 
a rich and populous city, and the residence of the 
ancient kings of Friesland, but frequent inunda- 



i 



178 MGLQUERN. — HINLOPEN. WORCUM. 

tions have destroyed- the greater part of it, and 
choked up the harbour. It is yet however a con- 
siderable town. Passage-boats go once or twice 
a week to Amsterdam, Enkhuysen, Harlingen, 
Lee u warden, Sneek, and Worcum. The City- 
Hotel (Stadsherherg) is a good hotel. 

Three miles from Staveren is Molquern. 
This little town, containing only 400 inhabitants, 
is very curiously built. The houses are all de- 
tached, and so irregularly placed, that a stranger 
finds himself in a pertect labyrinth. The inhabit- 
ants trace their descent from the Saxons, and have 
a language peculiar to themselves. 

Six miles from Staveren is Hinlopen orHinde- 
lopen, with 1,500 inhabitants, and a beautiful 
tower. It is principally supported by fishing. The 
best inns are the Swan (Zwaan), and the Gilt- 
Anchor {Ver guide Anker). A diligence sets out 
every day for Worcum and Staveren, and a vessel 
for Amsterdam. 

Still following the ccast of the Zuyder-Zee, the 
traveller arrives at W orcum or Woldercum* con- 
taining 3/200 inhabitants. The neighbouring 
country is very fertile, and watered by numerous 
canals. I he principal occupations arc lime-burn- 
ing and eel-fishing. A great quantity of eels are 
sent as far as England. The best inns are the 
Paradise (Paradys), and the Prosperity of the 
Country (Lands IVchoren). A boat goes to 
Bolswaert four times a day, and to Amsterdam 
and Enkhuysen every day. 

Fifteen miles N. e. of Workum is Sneek or 
Snitz, near a lake of the same name. It is very 



SNEEK — BOLSWAERT. — HARLINGEN. 179 



ancient, and has considerable trade principally in 
beer. The surrounding country is very marshy, 
The best inns are the Three Frisians (Dn'e Fries tri) 
and the Town Weights (Stads Waag). Vessels 
sail every day for Yslt, Bolswaert, and Franeker ; 
and every week for Amsterdam, Groningen, Haar- 
lem, and Hoorn. 

Three miles from Sneek is Ylst or list, con- 
sisting of one street forming a semicircle. 

Twelve miles n.w. of Sneek is Bolswaert, 
with 2,700 inhabitants. It has some woollen 
manufactories and breweries. On the road to 
Harlingen are many large tile-kilns. A boat sails 
every day for Leeu warden, Sneek, and Worcum. 
The inns are the Doelen, the Three Crowns [Drie 
Kroonen), the Hart {Hart), and Fortune (Fortuin). 

Proceeding N.w. by the villages of Scheltens, 
Arum, and Kimswera, we again arrive at the 
Zuyder-Zee, on which, and fifteen miles from 
Bolswaert, is Harlingen, containing 7,500 inha- 
bitants, and several flourishing manufactories of 
canvass, paper, salt, and bricks. The harbour is 
sufficiently deep to contain vessels of the greatest 
burden, but the approach to it is difficult. The 
streets are neat, and intersected with canals. Its 
principal ornament is the college of the admiralty. 
Near the town is a monument erected to the Stadt- 
holder Robles. The principal inns are, the Golden 
Lion (Goucle Leeuw) and the Heerenlogement. A 
passage-boat goes to Franeker and Leeu warden 
four times a day, and once a day to Amsterdam, 
Dokkurri, and Sneek. A vessel sails once a week 
for Enkhuysen, Heerenveen, and West Friesland. 



180 FRANEKER. — DOKKUM. 



A large canal proceeds from Harlingen. through 
Franeker to Leeuwarden. 

Franeker has a castle, and formerly possessed 
a university. The public buildings are magnificent. 
Two large canals add to the importance of the 
place. It contains 3,900 inhabitants, and is sur- 
rounded by pleasant villages, in one of which, 
called Larkum, is the cabinet of natural history of 
the celebrated Peter Camper. Excellent mathe- 
matical and philosophical instruments are made 
here: but the principal employment of the inha- 
bitants is the manufactory of bricks. The inns 
are, the Sun (Zon), the Dutch Garden {Hoi- 
landsche Tuyn), the Falcon (Valk), and the Stork. 
Boats go four times a day to Leeuwarden, once a 
day to Sneek, four times a week to Harlingen^ 
ai«d once a week to Amsterdam. 

We will now pursue our former route. A road 
goes across the country from Leeuwarden to 
Stroobos; but a more frequented road and the 
canal go wve. to Dokkum, leaving Oudkerk 
on the right, and Steens and Gennaard on the 
left. 

Dokkum contains 2,700 inhabitants. The 
principal commerce is in beer, cheese, and but- 
ter, which are much esteemed for their superior 
flavour. Great quantities of salt are manufactured 
here. The Stadt-house and the bridge over the 
canal will not escape the traveller's notice. Dok- 
kum is a league and a half from the sea, with 
which it communicates by a canal. 

A passage-boat goes four times a day to Leeu- 
warden and Groningen ; three times to Stroobos ; 



GRONINGEN. 



181 



twice to Collum ; and once to Harlingen. The 
best inn is the Post Boy's Horn (Post-hoom). 

From Dokkum a canal goes along the edge 
of Groningen Deep, to a strong fort called Zolt- 
camp ; but the canal or road which our traveller 
will probably pursue winds to the s.e., and leav- 
ing the villages of Kobner-Zwaag and Lutkeport 
on the right, goes to Stroobos, and thence to Gro- 
ningen, leaving the village of Leegkerk on the left 
a few miles w. of Groningen. 

Groningen, formerly one of the Hanseatic 
towns, is seated on the rivers Hunse and Aa, and 
contains 24,000 inhabitants. One of the universi- 
ties of Holland is established here, but the num- 
ber of students seldom exceeds 100. It has an 
interesting seminary for the instruction of deaf and 
dumb persons. Groningen has many noble build- 
ings, of which the strong citadel, the town-hall, and 
the great church are most worthy of attention. 

The largest vessels ascend the river close to the 
town. The orientalist Schultens was a native of 
Groningen. A diligence goes every day to Leeu- 
warden, and a passage-boat four times a day to 
Delfzyl, Dokkum, Stroobos, and Winchoten. A 
vessel goes four times a week, and a diligence 
three times to Lemmer ; and every Monday to 
Zwoll. A vessel sails twice a week for Amsterdam, 
Embden, Nieuwkerk, and Sneek. The inns are the 
Seven Provinces (J Provincieri), the Golden Crown 
(Goude-Kroori), the Amsterdam Arms (Wapen van 
Amsterdam), the Blue Angel (Blauwe Engel), and 
the Parliament of England {Parkment van Enge* 
land); but the best inn is the Doelen. 

R 



182 



APFINGED AM, &C. 



From Groningen the road to Embden at the 
mouth of the Ems, and which now belongs to 
Hanover, passes by Appingedam and Delfzyl. A 
wide and deep canal, by which ships of consider- 
able burden may ascend as high as Groningen, and 
which is called Damster Diep, skirts the road. 

Appingedam contains 1,600 inhabitants, has 
a good cattle market, and beautiful environs 
abounding with handsome country-seats. 

Delfzyl is a town with a strong fortress and 
good harbour, at the mouth of the Damster Diep. 
It contains only 800 inhabitants. The best inn is 
the Count of Holland (Graaf van Holland). A 
boat goes twice a day to Groningen; a packet 
every day to Embden; and a vessel once a week 
to Amsterdam 

Another large canal proceeds by Winchoten to 
Nieweschans. Half-way between Groningen and 
Winchoten is the village of Zuidbrock. 

Winchoten, a small but well-fortified town, 
contains 2,000 inhabitants. The first battle be- 
tween the revolted Dutch and the Spaniards took 
place here in 1568, in which the latter were 
defeated. It has very numerous mills, A boat 
goes to Groningen every day. 

Nieweschans is a small port at the southern 
extremity of Dollart-bay. 

Hence for 30 miles, in a southern direction, 
extends the marshy heath of Bourtang, whose bar- 
ren nature seems to have foiled even the perse- 
vering industry of the Dutch. I shall therefore 
return to Groningen, and thence pursue a more 
pleasing route through Overyssel and Gelderland. 



GRONINGEN TO ARNHEIM. 183 



Overyssel is the poorest of the Seven United Pro- 
vinces* Out of every hundred ducats contributed 
by the States, its proportion was only five, nor is 
it well-peopled in proportion to its extent. Gel- 
derland contains much waste land, especially on 
the borders of Germany ; but in other parts, and 
particularly in the neighbourhood of Nimeguen, 
the soil is very fertile. 



SECT. XIV. Route from Groningen to Arnheim. 

Posts. Miles. 

Groningen to Assem . . 4 .... 22 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Assem to Dievenbrug 3 .... l6j 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Dievenbrug to Meppel. 3 .... 1()J 

Extra charge lor 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Meppel to Zwoll 4 .... 22 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Zwoll to Deventer 4 22 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Deventer to Zutphen ....... 2 . ... 11 

Zutphen to Arnheim ........ 4 .... 22 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 

horse. , , 

24 132 



184 



ASSEN. — COEVORDEN. 



On leaving Groningen, the canal and the road 
run at a small distance from the river Hunse.- 
About seven miles from Groningen is Eelde, and 
eight miles beyond is Uries. Assen is seven miles 
from Uries. 

Assen contains only 600 inhabitant*. Some 
stones of extraordinary magnitude, called Hun- 
nebedden, and several tumuli of the ancient Ger- 
mans, are to be seen near this town. From 
Assen through Dievenbrug and Ruinen to Weppel, 
nothing remarkable occurs. One route fromMeppel 
to Zwoll has been already described (page 174, &c). 
Another road, though not. so pleasant, lies through 
Staphorst, Roveen, and Kranenberg. 

Twenty miles e. of Meppel is Coeyorden, a 
fortified town in a morass. It is supposed to be 
the strongest place in Holland, and is called the 
key of the country, as it commands the pass out 
of Munster. 

From Zwoll a road branches off to the left 
towards Lingen. The country is pleasant as far as 
Hardenberg. The traveller may sail up the Vecht, 
or pursue the post-road which often touches the 
banks of the river in its numerous windings. 

Passing through Delsen, containing 700 inha- 
bitants, and supported by its mills and linen ma- 
nufactories, the traveller arrives at Hardenberg, 
24 miles from Zwoll. This place has only 650 
inhabitants, and is full of windmills. 

From Zwoll to Arnheim, following the course 
of the Yssel, the traveller will find it exceedingly 
pleasant whether he goes by land or water. Passing 
through Winsheim and Olst, the first place of conse- 



DEVENTER. 



185 



quenceis Deventer. It was formerly a free imperial 
city, belonging to the Hanseatic league, and con- 
tains 8,300 inhabitants. The cathedral church is 
a venerable and noble structure. De venter pos- 
sesses a college, but not to be compared with 
either Utrecht or Leyden. The learned Gronovius 
was a native of this place. The town is celebrated 
for its gingerbread and beer. The environs offered 
some pleasant walks, but they materially suffered 
in the campaigns of 1813 and 1814- The best 
inns are the Full Moon {Voile Maan) and the 
Overyssel Arms (Wapen van Overyssel). A coach 
goes to Hamburgh every Tuesday and Saturday ; 
and twice a week to Amersfoort, Arnheim, Enschede, 
Harderwyk, Naarden, Nimeguen, Utrecht, Zut- 
phen, and Zwoll. A boat goes once a week to 
Delft, Haarlem, the Hague, Leyden, and Rotter- 
dam ; three times a week to Amsterdam, and 
everyday to Campen. 

From Deventer, a road goes through Lingen to 
Oldenbourg. The first relay is at Hotten. The 
road then branches to the north, and passes through 
Rysen to Almelo, which is the next relay. It 
contains 4,500 inhabitants, and subsists princi- 
pally by the manufacture of linen. Abundance of 
flax is cultivated in the neighbourhood. 

The next stage is Ootmarsum, having 1,100 
inhabitants, and supported likewise by linen ma- 
nufactories. A little beyond Nordhorn the road 
passes the frontiers. 

From Hotten another road branches off more to 
the south to Osnabruck. The first stage is Del- 
den, containing 1,100 inhabitants. Twickeloo is 
R 3 



186 OLDENZAAL ZUTPHEN. 



on the left. The road, four miles farther on, passes 
through Hengelo, three miles beyond which, on 
the left, is Oldenzaal, the Salia Vetus of the 
Romans, whence the modern name is derived. It 
contains 2,100 inhabitants, and is supported by its 
linen manufactories. Ten miles s.e. of Delden is 
Enschede, containing 1,800 inhabitants, and 
celebrated for its quarries. A diligence goes twice 
a week to Deventer. 

Eight miles s. w. of Delden is Goor, containing 
1,000 inhabitants, and subsisting; chiefly by the 
carriage of goods. 

Twenty-four miles from Delden is Bentheim, 
and ten miles farther on is Max haven near the 
frontiers. 

Returning to Deventer we again pursue the 
course of the Yssel, passing by Gorssel and Wans- 
feldo, close to which is Zutphen or Zuphek, 
at the conflux of the BerkeJ with the Yssel, and 
formerly a free imperial town belonging to the 
Hanseatic league. It is situated in the midst of 
drained fens, yet the air is supposed to be whole- 
some, and the town contains 7,000 inhabitants. 
Here the gallant Sir Philip Sidney was mortally 
wounded in 1586. The principal church is very 
ancient and magnificent. The other buildings 
worthy of notice are the Town-hall, the College of 
Deputies, the palace called Graven-hof, and the 
Bridge. 

In 1572, Zutphen was attacked by Toledo, the 
son of the Duke of Alva. After a short resist- 
ance, the garrison, and all the inhabitants who had 
favoured the patriotic party retired from the town, 



LOCHEM. — BEHKELOT. 



187 



leaving those only who were attached to the cause 
of Spain. Although Toledo was fully informed 
of this, he delivered the place to all the horrors 
of a storm. His troops spread themselves through 
the town, and put to the sword all who fell in 
their way, without distinction of age or sex : and 
when they were tired of this kind of slaughter, 
they threw hundreds into the Yssel, indulging 
themselves in the savage joy of seeing their unhappy 
victims perish in the stream. 

The principal inns are the Imperial Crown 
(Keyser's Kroori), the Overyssel Arms (Wapen 
van Overyssel), the Boar's Head, and the Savage 
(Wildeman). A diligence goes every day to De- 
venter and Harderwyk ; four times a week to 
Arnheim ; twice to Deutichem and Doesburg : and 
once to Emmerik and Grol. 

From Zutphen a road branches off to the e, 
towards Munster. Passing through Velde we 
arrive at Lochem on the Berkel, twelve miles 
from Zutphen. It has 1,350 inhabitants, and 
subsists by agriculture. M ear Lochem is a moun- 
tain called Lochemshe-berg, which is said to con- 
tain a vein of silver. 

Ten miles beyond Lochem, and likewise on the 
Berkel, is Borkelo or Beukelot, containing 
900 inhabitants. It has no commerce, but is re- 
markable for some beautiful ruins. 

Leaving Bloishuis, Old Eibergen, and Eibergen, 
on the left, we pass Hupzel two miles on the right, 
and Grol three or four miles more on the right, and 
not far from the frontiers. Grol or Groenlo is a 
strong town, contain ng 1,500 inhabitants. 



188 



DOESBURG. — ARNHEIM. 



Returning to Zutphen, the road passes through 
Brummen, Spankerken, Dieren, and Velp, to Arn- 
heim ; but if we pursue the course of the Yssel, we 
find Bronkhorst, Kelbergen, and Luer ; after which 
is Doesburg, a small, but strong, rich, and well- 
peopled town, at the confluence of the Old and New 
Yssel. The environs of Doesburg produce much 
tobacco. The best inns are the Heerenlogement 
and the Pelican (Pelikaari). 

Still following the river, we pass Bingaarden, 
Gysbeck, and Baar, and then arrive at the point 
where the Yssel separates from the Rhine. Op- 
posite to this is Huessan. 

Two miles lower down the Rhine is Amheim. 
It is beautifully situated at the foot of the hills of 
Veluwe, and contains 10,000 inhabitants. The 
entrances, called St. Jan's Poort and SabeVs Poort, 
are very picturesque, and the ramparts form a 
delightful promenade. ~ 

The church of St. Eusebius contains numerous 
tombs of the Counts of Guelderland, some of which 
are interesting from their antiquity and their pleas- 
ing execution. The constant passage of travellers 
to Germany renders this town agreeable and lively; 
and the neighbourhood abounds with gentlemen's 
country-seats. The most elegant of these are Beck- 
huizen, Billion, Middagten, Klarenbeck, and 
Roozendaal. 

This town gave birth to the celebrated painter 
David Beck. The following singular event is re- 
corded of him. He was taken violently ill, and in 
a few minutes apparently expired. As his valets 
watched his corpse during the night, lamenting the 



ARNHEIM. 



189 



loss of so good a master, they sought consolation in 
the bottle ; and having succeeded in drowning their 
grief and their senses, one of them exclaimed " Our 
poor master used to be fond of his glass when alive, 
suppose we give him a bumper now he is dead.'* 
No sooner said than done. The head of the corpse 
was raised, and some of the wine poured down the 
dead man's throat. Beck slowly opened his eyes ; 
but the intoxication of the servants was so complete 
that this did not surprise them. They persisted in 
compelling him to swallow the whole bumper ac- 
cording to the rules of good drinking: but ere they 
had accomplished it, he burst from their hold, and 
was restored to perfect health. The unfortunate 
painter, however, escaped death in this horrible 
shape, to meet it in another more dreadful. He was 
soon afterwards poisoned at the instigation of Queen 
Christina, whose court he had determined to quit. 

The principal inns are the Sun (Zon), the Pea- 
cock (Pauto), the White Eagle, the Herring, the 
Boars Head, and the Golden Plough. Stages set 
out for Amsterdam every day, price five francs: 
Deutichem twice a week, fare eighteen sous; De- 
venter, Doesburg, and Harderwyk, twice a week; 
Cleves, Cologne, and Frankfort, three times a week, 
price thirty-two francs ten sous ; Nimeguen twice a 
■day, price eighteen sous; Utrecht every day, price 
two francs sixteen sous ; Zevener, Elten, Emmerik, 
and We-zel, twice a week, price three francs ; and 
Zutphcn, four times a week, price one franc ten sous. 

Lichtenvoord with its castle, Brevoort a strong 
town with a castle in a morass, Deutekom, and 
Heerenberg, are towns in the s.e. of Guelderland, 



190 WAGE NIK GEN RHENEN. 

which contain nothing sufficiently remarkable to be 
recorded. 

SECT. XV. Voyage down the Rhine and Lech 
from Arnheim to Rotterdam, 

Before it enters the Netherlands, the Rhine 
loses much of its characteristic grandeur and beauty, 
and in some places degenerates into a mere Dutch 
river ; yet it retains sufficient interest to render this 
excursion pleasing, and even where the beauties 
of nature cease to attract, the traveller will admire 
the stupendous efforts of human skill and industry. 

The first town which he will pass is Wagenin- 
gen, about fourteen miles from Arnheim, on the 
right bank of the river. Its chief trade is in beer, 
cattle, and tobacco, and it has 2,600 inhabi- 
tants. The garden of Roozendaal is one of the 
finest in the province. The Prosperity of Gelder- 
land (Geldersch Weharen) and the White Swan 
are good inns. Diligences go every day to Arn- 
heim and Utrecht. 

Five miles lower on the same bank is Rhenen, 
a small but ancient town mentioned by Tacitus 
under the name of Grinnes, and containing 1,600 
inhabitants. It is surrounded by beautiful walks, 
and from the hill of Hememberg is a noble prospect. 
The best inn is the King of Bohemia (Koning van 
Boheme). A diligence goes every Tuesday and 
Friday to Utrecht ; and a vessel every week to 
Amsterdam. 

We soon pass Linden, and afterwards Wiel on 
the left bank, opposite to which last village and five 



CULENBOURG. — NIANEN. 19 1 



miles from Rhenen is Amerongen, containing a 
post-house. Five miles lower than this, after pass- 
ing Eck on the left bank, and at the point where 
the Leek branches off from the Rhine, is Wyk de 
Duerstede, on the right bank, containing 1,500 in- 
habitants. It is supposed to be the ancient Bata- 
vodurum. 

Sailing by Ravensway and Beusekom, both on the 
left bank of the river, we arrive at Culenbourg or 
Kuilenbourg on the same bank, and ten miles 
from Wyk. This is a pretty and well-built 
town, with 3,000 inhabitants. It used to be a 
sanctuary for debtors. No debtor after having 
sought refuge in Culenbourg could be proceeded 
against without the consent of the magistrate of 
the place, and his protection was easily purchased ; 
unless he happened to be more highly bribed by 
the other party. It has a large manufactory of 
arms. The best inns are the Golden Head (Fer- 
gulde Hooft) and the Lion (Leeuw). Vessels sail 
once a week for Amsterdam, Delft, the Hague, 
Rotterdam, Thiel, Utrecht, and Wyk. 

No place of consequence now occurs until we 
arrive at Nianen, on the same bank, ten miles 
from Culenbourg, and containing 1,800 inhabitants. 
The ancient and ruined castle deserves notice for 
the beauty of the scenery. Vianen principally 
subsists by the cultivation of flax and apples. The 
Rose (Roos) is an excellent hotel. Diligences and 
boats go every day to Gorcum and Utrecht; and 
once a week to Amsterdam, Dort, the Hague, 
Leerdam, and Rotterdam. 

Ten miles s. of Vianen is Leer da m, or Lier 



192 YSSELSTEIN, — MON TFOORT, &C. 

dam. Cornelius Jansenius, the founder of the 
sect of the Jansenists, was born in the neighbour- 
hood. Near the town are some ancient and pic- 
turesque ruins. It contains 2,000 inhabitants. 
Diligences and vessels go every day to Utrecht ; 
and every week to Delft, Dort, the Hague, and 
Rotterdam. 

A little beyond Vianen another large stream 
called the Yssel diverges to the north, and forming 
a circuit by Ysselstein, Moritfoort, Oudenwater, 
and Gouda, unites itself again to the Leek, a few 
miles to the east of Rotterdam. 

Ysselstein contains 2,500 inhabitants. It 
has a castle and a beautiful mall. It is memorable 
for the siege which it sustained in 1297? and for 
the honourable terms which the wife of Gysbrecht, 
the governor of the city, obtained, who defended 
it with only sixteen men. The best inns are the 
Chevalier St. George (Ridder St. Joris) and the 
Salmon {Salm\ 

Moktfoort contains 1,300 inhabitants, and 
has an old castle. Its chief manufactory is rope. 
The Golden Head (V er guide Hooft) is the best inn. 
A boat goes every week to Amsterdam, Gouda, 
and Utrecht. 

Oudenwater and Gouda have already been 
described (page 158). 

Passing by Lexmont on the left bank, where is 
the first post-house between Utrecht and Brussels, 
and soon afterwards Jaarsveld on the right, we 
reach Niewport, sixteen miles from Vianen on 
the left bank of the river. It has 4,000 inhabitants, 
and subsists by fishing and agriculture. 



SCHOONHOVEN. — DORT. 193 



One mile lower, and on the opposite bank, is 
Schookhoven, containing 2,500 inhabitants. 
Its name, which signifies the beautiful port, is 
derived from the delightful gardens and meadows 
that surround it. Its principal traffic is in salmon, 
hemp, and plated goods. A vessel sails three 
times a w T eek for Gouda; once a week for Am- 
sterdam, Delft, Dort, Gorcum, the Hague, Leyden, 
and Utrecht; and almost every hour for Rotterdam. 
The best inns are the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuiv), 
and the Salmon (Salm). 

Passing Koer-Aatsberg on the right, Stroefkirk, 
and Nieuw-Lokkerland on the left, and then Krims- 
sen on the right, the city of Rotterdam, crowded 
with shipping, once more appears twenty miles 
from Schoonhoven. 

SECT. XVI. Voyage up the Waal from 
Rotterdam to Nimeguen. 

Having witnessed the pleasing scenery of the 
northern branches of the Rhine, the traveller will 
not perhaps object to re-imb ark, and sail up the 
Waal, which is the southern branch of the same 
river united to the Meuse. He will find much 
to interest and delight him, and this voyage will 
complete our Itinerary of the Northern Provinces. 
The tourist will retrace his former route to the 
junction of one branch of the Mi use with the 
Leek, and sailing up the Meuse will pass Al- 
blasserdam and Papendrecht, opposite to which is 

Dort or Dordrecht, on an island formed 
by the Meuse, twelve miles s. e. of Rotterdam, 
s 



194 DORT OR DORDRECHT. 



This island was torn from the opposite shore in 
1421 by an irruption of the rivers, which broke 
down the dykes, and destroyed seventy-two vil- 
lages, and 100,000 persons. Dort is one of the 
most ancient cities in Holland, and was formerly 
the capital of the province. It is said to have 
been founded by Merovius. The famous Pro- 
testant synod was held here in l6l8 and l6l9> 
which condemned the tenets of Arminius. The 
town-hall and great church are magnificent struc- 
tures. The latter is 300 feet in length, and 125 
feet wide. The mint of South Holland is esta- 
blished here, and a Military School, supported 
by Government, for the education of officers of 
the army. 

The natural situation of Dort is so strong, that 
although frequently besieged, it has never been 
taken. The harbour is excellent. The principal 
trade is in corn, wine, particularly Rhenish wine, 
and wood. 

Vast floats of timber arrive here from Ander- 
nach and other places on the Rhine. The length 
of the rafts are from 700 to 1,000 feet, and the 
breadth from 50 to 90 : 500 labourers direct the 
floating island, which is covered with a village of 
timber huts for their habitation. The sale of one 
raft frequently produces more than 30,000/. 

Dort contains about 18,000 inhabitants. The 
learned Vossius, and the celebrated De Witt, 
were natives of this town, The Bellevue, on the 
bank of the river, is an excellent inn, and well 
deserves its name, for the view is both extensive 
and beautiful. The American Arms (Wapen van S 



GORCUM.— WORCUSt. 



195 



America), and the Falcon (Valk), are com- 
fortable inns. A vessel sails every day for 
Rotterdam. 

On another island to the w., formed likewise by 
the branches of the Meuse, are the small hamlets 
and post-houses of Prinsenpoldar and Stryensaas, 

Proceeding up the Maes or Waal, by Sleydrecht 
and Hardinveld, we arrive at Gornichem or 
Gorcum, at the junction of the Linghe with the 
Waal, eighteen miles e. of Dort. It has consider- 
able trade in butter, cheese, corn, and fish, and 
contains 5,000 inhabitants. The horses bred in this 
neighbourhood are much esteemed. From the 
top of the principal church no less than twenty- 
two walled towns may be seen, besides numerous 
villages. Erpenius the celebrated orientalist, was 
born at Gorcum. The Doelen, formerly a house 
of some consequence, is now converted into a 
comfortable inn ; the other inns are the Sun (Zon) 
and the Load of Hay (Hoog-zvagen). A diligence- 
goes every day to Breda and Vianen ; and a boat 
four times a week to Vianen ; and four times a 
day to Rotterdam. A ship sails three times a 
week for Dort and Rotterdam ; and once a week 
for Delft, Gouda, the Hague, Bois-le-duc, Ley den, 
Middelbourg, Nimeguen, Schoonhoven, and Thiel. 

Opposite to Gorcum is Woudrichem or 
Worcum, containing only 670 inhabitants. The 
neighbouring country was laid waste by an inun- 
dation in 1740. A boat goes four times a day to 
Gorcum and Rotterdam. 

A little above Gorcum the Waal separates into 
two branches, which enclose the island of Bommel 
s 2 



196 LOEVESTEIN. — BOMMEL — -TH1EL. 

or Bommelwaert, fifteen miles long, and varying 
from one to four miles in breadth. At the west 
end of the island is Loevestein. The patriotic 
chiefs were imprisoned in this castle by Prince 
Maurice, whence that party has since been called 
the Loevestein faction. Grotius, after three years' 
imprisonment here, was conveyed away by a 
stratagem of his wife, in a box used for carrying 
books. 

Bommel is the principal town of the island. 
It is nearly impregnable, and contains 2,900 
inhabitants. The chief support of the place is 
agriculture, but the neighbouring country is much 
exposed to inundations. Its commerce has rapidly 
declined since a large bank of sand has gradually 
accumulated here, and almost reaches the walls 
of the town* The best inn is the Court of Gel- 
derland (Hof-van-Gelderland). A coach goes every 
day to Utrecht and Bois-le-duc ; and a boat to 
Gornicum, Loevestein, Dort, and Rotterdam. 

The traveller ascends the northern stream, pass- 
ing Loevestein, and Brakel on his right, then Kel- 
luw, Hoasten, and Thuel (where is the post-house ;) 
Waardenburg and Op-ynen on his left ; Bommel 
and Herwynen then follow on the right, then Varik 
on his left, Dreumel on the right, and Zenewynen 
on the left; when he arrives at Thiel, likewise on 
the left bank. 

Thiel is a pleasant town, with 3,000 inha- 
bitants, and is surrounded by a most beautiful and 
luxuriant country. It was unsuccessfully besieged 
by the Emperor Charles V. in the beginning of 
the l6th century. The navigation of the Meuse 



BUREN. — NIMEGUEN. 



197 



Is the principal employment of its inhabitants. 
The best inn is the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuw). 
A diligence goes four times a week to Utrecht, 
and vessels every day to Bommel, Dort, Gorcum, 
Nimeguen, and Utrecht. 

Ten miles w. w. of Thiel is Buren, a pleasant 
town with a fortified castle. It contains 3,500 
inhabitants. The beautiful marble fountain should 
not be overlooked. The best inn is the Three Kings 
(Drie Koningen). 

Proceeding from Thiel, Wamel, Leeuwen, and 
Druten, occur on the right; then Hein, Loenen, 
and Oosterhout, on the left, and Hees on the right ; 
when the traveller arrives at Nimeguen, which he 
enters over a bridge of a curious construction, 
consisting of two flying or swing-bridges, and a 
fixed one in the centre. On this bridge are some 
small cannon, that are fired when any illustrious 
visitor crosses it, or, indeed, any person who has 
vanity or whim sufficient to induce him to pay the 
guard the stipulated compliment. 

Nimeguen, Nieumege, or Nimwegen, is 
an ancient, rich, strong, and well-peopled 
town, with 13,000 inhabitants. It was called 
by the Romans, Noviomagum, and is the capital 
of Gelderland. It has an abrupt but short 
elevation from the river. The streets are nar- 
row and the windows of one range of houses 
overlook the chimneys of another. The churches 
are well worth the traveller's attention, and the 
Town-hall, possessing some beautiful specimens of 
antiquity, is equal to any in the Low Countries. 
The castle called Valkenhof is said to have been 
S3 



198 



NiMEGUEN SCHENK. 



built by the Emperor Charlemagne. The view 
from the Belvidere or Prospectrhouse is wonder- 
fully fine, extending from Arnheim and Duisburg 
in the north, to Cleves and Geldres in the south, 
and towards the east over half the forests of Gel- 
derland to those of Westphalia. 

The celebrated treaty of peace in 1678 was con- 
cluded here, and the portraits of the respective 
ambassadors are shewn in the Town-hall. The 
swords with which counts Egmont and Hoorn 
were beheaded are likewise preserved here. 

The ale of Nimeguen is in request through 
all Holland. 

The greater part of the diligences for Brabant, 
France, Cologne, Franckfort, and Maestricht 
pass through Nimeguen. A diligence starts for 
Amsterdam every day; for Utrecht four times in 
the week ; for Cleves three times a week ; Cologne 
twice a week; and Breda, Bois-le-duc, and 
Venlo, once a week. Vessels sail every week for 
Amsterdam, Dort, Gorcum, Gouda, the Hague, 
Leyden, and Rotterdam, 

The best inns are the Royal Hotel, the White 
Swan, and the Red Hart. 

Thirteen miles higher up the river where the 
Rhine divides into two branches is Schenk. It 
perfectly commands the passage of both branches ; 
and is of great importance as the centre of com- 
munication between Holland and Germany. 



199 



SECT. XVII. Route from Nimeguen to 
Brussels. 

I will now turn southward, and after visiting 
the few places which remain on the south of the 
Waal, will conduct the traveller by the most 
pleasing routes through the beautiful and highly- 
cultivated provinces of Belgium. The country, 
except in Luxemburg, and on the banks of the 
Meuse, is too level to afford those grand and ro- 
mantic prospects which the tourist delights to con- 
template and describe, but the inimitable cultiva- 
tion of the land, and the garden-like appearance of 
the country, cannot fail to delight. 

Posts. Miles. 



Nimeguen to Grave 2 . . . . 11 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Grave to Heesel 2 .... 11 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Heesel to Bois-le-duc 2 .... 11 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Bois-le-duc to Tilburg 4 . ... 22 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Tilburg to Breda 4 22 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Breda to Grotzundert 2 .... 1 } 



200 



GRAVE. 



Posts. Miles. 



Brought over 16 .... 8& 

Extra charge for 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Grotzundert to Gooring 1 i .... 9 _j 

Gooring to Antwerp 2 J , ... 12x 

Antwerp to Mechlin 2\ . ... 15 J 

Mechlin to Vilvorde 1 .... SJ 

Vilvorde to Brussels 1 J .... 7 



254 140| 

The road from Nimeguen passes through Ha- 
lert and Neer-Asselt to the Meuse, which it 
crosses a little to the north of Gr ave. This small 
town contains about 1,600 inhabitants. One of 
the gates (Ham-poorte) is unusually grand. The 
best inn is the Golden Lion ( Goude LeeurvJ. 

Eight miles w.s.w. of Nimeguen is Ravestein, 
with an ancient castle. 

The road now proceeds through Heesel and 
Op-Zeland to Bois-le-duc; but little occurs worthy 
of notice. 

A great part of Dutch Brabant consists of bar- 
ren heaths, and deep and sterile sands. A very 
small portion of it is capable of bearing wheat, but 
it produces abundance of good rye and buck- 
wheat. The sheep are small, yet much esteemed, 
and the game is plentiful. 

The sterility of the soil seems to have affected 
the character of the inhabitants. In no part of 
Holland, except in the great cities, do we find 
much polish, though much more civility than 



BOIS-LE-DUC, &C. 



201 



many tourists are willing to acknowledge : but the 
lower orders in Brabant are peculiarly uncultivated, 
and this district is said to furnish more thieves and 
recruits for the army than any other. 

Bois-le-Duc on the Dommel, at its confluence 
with the Aa, contains 12,000 inhabitants. It de- 
rives its name from being situated in a wood in 
which the Dukes of Brabant used to hunt. It is 
so surrounded by water, that in winter the whole 
of the neighbouring country is inundated, and the 
place can only be approached in a boat. The 
town is intersected by canals, over which are no 
less than eighty bridges. The church of St. 
John, the Governor's house, and the v Town-hall, are 
handsome buildings. It is considered to be nearly 
impregnable. The chief manufactories are of 
knives, pins, linen, and hardware. The best inn 
is the Savage fWildemanj. 

Coaches go every day to Antwerp, Breda, 
Grave, Nimeguen, Tilbourg, and Turnhout ; and 
boats to Amsterdam, Delft, Gouda, Haarlem, the 
Hague, Leyden, Middelbourg, Nimeguen, Schie- 
dam, and Thiel, once a week ; and to Dort, Gor- 
cum, and Rotterdam, three times a week. 

Before we proceed in our route we must turn 
to the s. and mention Eyndhoven, twenty-two 
miles from Bois-le-duc, containing 2,000 inha- 
bitants, and which was once the capital of the pro- 
vince. Its principal manufactory is linen. Hel- 
mont at the same distance s.e. with 2,500 
inhabitants, and a castle well worthy of notice : 
Liempd, twelve miles s. of Bois-le-duc; Oir- 
schet, sixteen miles s.w. ; Hilvarenbeck, 



£02 CREVECCEUR. — TILBURG. — BREDA* 



twenty-four miles s.w. ; and Eersels, thirty- 
miles s. 

Ten miles sr. of Bois-le-duc is Crevecceur, 
a strong fortress at the conflux of the Dommel 
with the Meuse. It is said to have derived its 
name from an exclamation of Louis XIV, when a 
chosen company of French grenadiers refused to 
advance to the attack of the place. 

Returning to Bois-le-duc, the road proceeds by 
Isabella, Vugt, Zwynsbergen, Udenhout, and 
Berk el, to Thuilberg, or Tilburg, containing 
8,600 inhabitants. It subsists by agriculture and 
excellent linen manufactories. The best inns are 
the Castle of Antwerp (Kasteel van Antiverpen) 
and the Court of Holland (Hof van Holland). 
Diligences go every week to Antwerp, Breda, 
Bois-le-duc, Maestricht, and Waalwyk. 

From Tilburg the road passes through Ryen to 
Breda. 

Breda is a well-built fortified city on the 
Merk, having about 8,000 inhabitants. The great 
church is a noble structure with a lofty spire 360 
feet high, and contains the splendid tomb of 
Engelbert, Count of Nassau. The new palace, 
surrounded by the waters of the Merk, deserves 
notice. Breda has four squares, and a beautiful 
quay bordered with trees. The town and sur- 
rounding country are very pleasant and much fre- 
quented by strangers. The walks towards Haagje 
and Ginniken are particularly admired. The 
salmon taken here is excellent, and the poultry 
much esteemed. The breweries supply the neigh- 
bouring country. 



BREDA. 



203 



Prince Maurice of Nassau took it in 1590 by 
the following stratagem. A vessel was loaded 
apparently with turf, but the turf was supported 
by planks at the distance of several feet from the 
bottom, and under the planks seventy chosen sol- 
diers were concealed. Although they had not 
many miles to sail, several days passed before 
they could reach Breda; and the vessel striking 
upon a rock sprung a leak, through which the 
waves poured in so fast, that the soldiers were 
above their knees in water. Their provisions were 
likewise almost spent, and they would have mu- 
tinied and abandoned the enterprise in despair, had 
they not been animated by the heroic conduct of 
their commander, who swore that if they all for- 
sook him, he would alone proceed to Breda, and 
complete the affair with which he was intrusted, 
or perish. Heaven seemed to interpose to second 
and to reward his courage, for the soldiers had 
scarcely expressed their determination to conquer, 
or to die with him, than the leak, by some un- 
known cause, suddenly stopped. 

As the vessel passed the gates of Breda, one of 
the soldiers was seized with a violent fit of cough- 
ing. The danger was imminent. The least noise 
would betray them, and consign them to inevitable 
destruction. The noble fellow, as he struggled 
against the irresistible impulse to cough, bared 
his bosom, and by signs, implored his comrades 
to despatch him. They turned with horror from 
the proposal, resolving, if they must be disco- 
vered, to sell their lives dearly, rather than imbrue 
their hands in the blood of their companion. The 



204 



BREDA. 



soldier soon succeeded in repressing his cough, 
and the vessel proceeded towards the citadel un- 
suspected. 

The master of the vessel then expressed a wish 
to sell his turf. The garrison being destitute of 
fuel immediately purchased it, and so many hands 
were set to work in unloading the boat, that it 
would have been accomplished long before night, 
and the stratagem discovered. The master, with 
great presence of mind, now pretended that he 
was so fatigued with labour and watching, that he 
could no longer superintend their work. He then 
began to amuse them with various discourse, in- 
vited them to drink, and the evening found them 
all intoxicated or asleep. 

At midnight the soldiers of the States issued 
from their concealment, overwhelmed the unsus- 
pecting guard, and opened the gates of the town 
to Prince Maurice, who had advanced with the 
greater part of his army. 

Charles II. resided at Breda, when he was. in- 
vited to return to England, after the death of 
Cromwell. 

The best inns are the Golden Lion (Goude 
■Leeuw), the Prince Cardinal, the Flanders Hotel, 
the Stag, and the Crown. 

Coaches go every day to Antwerp, Utrecht, 
Amsterdam, and Rotterdam. The distance to 
Amsterdam is more than sixty miles, which the 
diligence performs in a day. Rotterdam is but 
thirty miles, yet the roads are so execrable that 
the journey occupies the whole of the day. The 
diligence arrives at Antwerp early in the after- 



TURNHOUT, &C. 



203 



noon, whence travellers may proceed to Ghent or 
Brussels on the same evening. 

Coaches go four times a day to Bois-le-Duc and 
Tilbourg ; and twice a week to Bergen-op-Zoom 
and Roosendaal. A boat goes once a week to 
Amsterdam, Delft, Dort, Gouda, and Rotterdam. 

Eighteen miles s.E. of Breda is Turnhout, 
where Prince Maurice, in 1596, with only 800 
cavalry, defeated the Spaniards, consisting of 
6,000 horse. 

We must, for the last time, diverge to the n. 
and the e. and mention two or three towns which 
will complete our tour through Holland. 

Fourteen miles u.e. of Breda is Oosterhout, 
with 5,400 inhabitants, and subsisting principally 
by agriculture. 

Ten miles n.w. of Bois-le-Duc is Heusdejc. 
It is considered to be almost impregnable ; but is 
much subject to inundations. In 1680 the maga- 
zine, containing 70,000 lbs. of gunpowder, blew 
up, and destroyed the greater part of the town. 
It contains 1,600 inhabitants. The principal inns 
are the Court of Holland (H of van Holland) and 
the Amsterdam Arms (Wapen van Amsterdam) 

Eleven miles m of Breda is Gertruyden- 
berg on the lake Biebosch. It is a strong place, 
built in the form of a half-moon. Several sluices 
are here by which the neighbouring country can 
be inundated. The principal employment is fish- 
ing, and the lake affords good salmon and 
sturgeon. 

Coasting along the lake Lage-Zwaluw, we 
arrive at Moerdyk, and that part of the Meuse 

T 



206 



WILLIAMSTADT, &C. 



called the Butterfliet. Here is the town and for- 
tress of Williamstadt, eighteen miles w.n.w. of 
Breda, and containing 1,300 inhabitants. It is a 
fortified sea-port, defended by a single wall and 
fosse, with a good harbour, and considered to be 
one of the keys of Holland. Its form is almost 
circular, and the streets are close and narrow. 
The surrounding country is marshy and un- 
healthy. It derives its name from William I., 
Prince of Orange, who built it. The inns are the 
Prince, and the Town ofDort. 

It was unsuccessfully besieged by the French 
under General Dumourier, and on many of the 
houses are seen the marks of the cannon-balls. 
The inhabitants consider every indentation as a 
memorial of their courage and loyalty, and care- 
fully preserve them from being obliterated. 

Coasting along the Kramer, we next find 
Steenbergen, seven miles n. of Bergen-op- 
Zoom, containing 3,700 inhabitants. It was for- 
merly a strong place with a good harbour, and 
much valued as securing the command of the 
neighbouring country; but the sea has retired from 
it nearly three miles, which, with the calamities 
it has suffered from war, has reduced it to an 
inconsiderable town. The fortifications, however, 
are maintained with some care, and a small garri- 
son is constantly placed here. 

Opposite to the sands of Beveland is Bergen- 
op-zoom, 24 miles n. of Antwerp. It is situated on 
the river Zoom, communicating w 7 ith the Scheldt 
by a canal, and almost surrounded by marshes. 
It has often been besieged, and was taken by the 



ANTWERP. 



207 



French in 1747 and 1794. Its fortifications are 
the chef-d'oeuvre of the celebrated engineer Coehorn. 
It contains five large squares, and 4,700 inha- 
bitants ; but the streets are narrow and dark, and 
the houses are meanly and uncouth ly built. 

The church of St. Gertrude deserves notice, and 
likewise the tower which rocks with the least 
breath of wind. The inns are the Helmet (Helm), 
the Three Horse-shoes (Drie Hoof-Yzer), and the 
Swan (Zwaari). A coach goes to Breda every second 
day, and a boat to Dort every day ; to Middelbourg 
every second day; and to Rotterdam twice a week. 

We now return to Breda, and passing through 
Hage, Grotzundert, Westwezel, and Gooring, the 
road offering nothing particular, we arrive at 
An vers, or Antwerp. 

This ancient city is esteemed the capital of 
Dutch Brabant. It stands on the Scheldt, and 
was once the chief mart of Flemish and Euro- 
pean commerce. In 1568, it contained 200,000 
inhabitants, but when the northern provinces 
threw off the Spanish yoke, they obtained posses- 
sion of the mouth of the Scheldt, blocked up the 
entrance to the harbour, fatally crippled the com - 
merce of Antwerp, and transferred the greater part 
of it to Amsterdam. The city now contains 
56,000 inhabitants. 

The arms of Antwerp consist of a castle with 
two hands, and in several parts of the city are 
rude sculptures of a man grasping the hand of a 
giant. Some antiquaries explain this by a very 
curious legend. They tell us, that on the spot 



£08 



ANTWERP. 



on which Antwerp is built, once stood the castle 
of a giant, who held the neighbouring country in 
thraldom, and cutting off the right hand of all who 
fell into his power, threw it into the sea. At 
length, a Roman, named Salvius Brabon, (from 
whom it is said that Brabant derived its name,) 
conquered this monster, inflicted on him the lex 
talionis, and threw his immense hand into the 
ocean. The castle of the giant was destroyed, 
and a town built on its scite called Handwerpen, 
or Hand-thrown. This in process of time was 
abbreviated to Antwerp. 

As the traveller approaches Antwerp, he will 
be surprised at the numberless hotels, gardens, 
and pleasure-houses which present themselves in 
endless succession. These establishments, far 
too numerous for the present wants of the city, 
owe their origin to that brilliant period when 
Antwerp was the depot of the commerce of the 
world. The merchants of Antwerp were every 
where known, when the Batavians were scarcely 
heard of, even as fishermen ; and while the Hol- 
landers lived in wooden huts, they erected the 
most splendid palaces. 

The numerous stately buildings in the old 
Gothic style which the city yet contains, testify 
its former grandeur. The fortunes that were ac- 
cumulated by many of the merchants of Antwerp 
exceed all credibility. Charles V. condescended 
to dine with one of the principal magistrates. 
After the repast, the citizen threw into the fire a 
bill of 2,000,000 ducats, which he had lent the 



ANTWERP. 



209 



monarch, exclaiming, that he was more than re- 
paid by the honour that Charles had then done 
him. 

Regnard, in his voyage to Flanders in 1681, 
&ays of Antwerp, " It surpasses every city which 
I have seen, with the exception of Naples, Rome, 
and Venice, in the magnificence of its houses, the 
grandeur of its churches, and the spaciousness of 
its noble streets." The street called Place de Mer 
is truly unrivalled in its extraordinary breadth, 
its great length, the sumptuousness of its houses, 
and the splendour of every thing in its neighbour- 
hood. 

The general appearance of the city is, however, 
much injured by the strange intermixture of 
magnificent palaces with the dwellings of the low- 
est classes of society. The nobleman and the, 
mechanic not only inhabit the same street, but 
even the very adjoining houses. However this 
might accord with the levelling system of revo- 
lutionary times, it is offensive to the eye, and de- 
stroys the beauty of the place. The traveller will 
likewise complain that even the noblest edifices 
are destitute of that sunken area, which, hindering 
the too near approach of the passenger, adds so 
much to the grandeur of the building; and that 
the want of a foot-pavement not only exposes the 
pedestrian to continual inconvenience and danger, 
but encases the lower story of the most sumptuous 
palace, with an unsightly covering of mud. 

The city is in the form of a semicircle, and 
about seven miles in circumference. The Scheldt 
T 3 



210 



ANTWERP. 



is here 20 feet deep at low water, and vessels 
anchor close to the quays. 

The tide rises to the unusual height of ten or 
twelve feet, and at new and full moon to nearly 
eighteen feet. At high water the river is navi-* 
gable for ships of war many miles above the 
town. 

The docks were the largest and most complete 
in Europe. One of the basins would contain forty 
sail of the line. They were nearly destroyed by 
a late expedition of the English, but are rapidly 
re-constructing in all their original magnificence. 
The arsenal and all the public works are on the 
grandest scale. 

The harbour is sufficiently spacious to accom- 
modate 2,000 ships, and is divided into four 
canals, lined with extensive quays, warehouses, and 
magazines. The commerce of Antwerp is said to 
have considerably increased within a few years ; 
indeed, the harbour will at all times be found to 
contain numerous foreign vessels, and the canals 
that run from it, are filled with smaller craft from 
the towns in the interior. 

Near the principal basin is an immense ware- 
house called the Oosterling. It forms a square, 
each side of which is 230 feet. The middle story 
was designed for the residence of merchants, but 
it is now little used for that purpose. 

The citadel, constructed according to the old 
style of fortification, is extremely formidable. 
The veteran Carnot was appointed Governor of 
Antwerp by Napoleon, and all the resources of 



ANTWERP/ 



211 



art were exhausted by him in c ntributing to the 
strength of the place. 

Numerous subterranean canals formerly passed 
under the streets. They were mostly excavated 
at the expense of individuals, and destined to con- 
vey to the magazines of the merchants in small 
boats, the goods which had been brought into the 
city through the open canals in larger vessels. 
They are now used for the purpose of sewers. 

The cathedral is one of the noblest Gothic 
structures on the continent. It is 500 feet long, 
230 wide, and 360 high. It was begun in 1422, 
under the superintendence of Amelius, one of the 
most celebrated architects of his time, and was 
completed in 1518, occupying a period of 96 
years. 

The large and magnificent nave is unequalled in 
the Low Countries. It is destitute of many of 
those glittering and false ornaments that crowd 
most other buildings, and exhibits a specimen of 
simple and awful grandeur. 

The beautiful spire is 466 feet in height. It 
was intended that a similar one should have been 
built by its side; but this was soon discontinued, 
and leaves the first a much finer object than it 
would have appeared, had the project been com- 
pleted. 

The gallery of the tower presents a pleasing and 
uninterrupted view of the town, its fortifications, 
the course of the Scheldt as far as the islands at 
its mouth, the surrounding country, and the sea. 

Most of the paintings that formerly enriched 
the cathedral have again appeared, and the travel- 



212 



ANTWERP. 



ler once more gazes with delight on the noblest \ 
■works of the best Flemish masters. 

He will particularly notice " The Elevation of the 
Cross/' and " The Descent" from it, by Rubens, in 
his very happiest style ; and he will study with 
exquisite pleasure the Altar-Piece by the same 
master. Its interesting subject is " The Ascension 
of our Saviour." The figures are admirably 
grouped, and the expression of each cannot be 
too much admired. 

The dome in the centre of the cathedral was 
painted by Schultz, and represents the heavenly 
choir chanting the praises of the Holy Virgin. 

Several of the smaller chapels surrounding the 
cathedral contain some admirable paintings. The 
altar-piece of the Chapel of the Circumcision is 
accounted the best performance of Matsys. 

Over one of the altars of the nave is a strangely 
conceived, but well-executed painting by Flors, 
the father-in-law of Matsys. A curious anecdote 
is connected with it. Matsys exercised the labori- 
ous occupation of a smith. Chance presented to 
him the daughter of Flors. He became deeply 
enamoured of her ; he dared to tell her his love, 
and succeeded in gaining her affections. In vain 
he entreated the father's consent to their union. 
The artist peremptorily refused ; and added, that 
his daughter should marry no one but a painter 
at least equal to himself. 

Inspired by love, Matsys secretly and diligently , 
applied himself to the study of painting. Day and 
night he laboured at his new profession, and the 
only hours of recreation in which he indulged * 



ANTWERP* 



213 



were those that were spent in the society of his 
beloved. 

After many months' intense application, he saw 
in the study of Flors, this painting of " The Fallen 
Angels/' in the execution of which that great 
master had exerted his utmost skill, and which he 
esteemed his chef-d'oeuvre. After much hesitation, 
he resolved to make one daring effort to surprise 
and win the old man. He seized the pallet of 
Flors, and painted a large bee on the thigh of one 
of the angels. This was executed with so much 
spirit and delicacy, that Flors, on his return, 
frankly declared that so promising an artist was 
truly worthy of his daughter, and gave his imme- 
diate and cordial assent to their marriage. 

The tomb of Matsys is near the west door, and 
not far from it are some curious ornaments belong- 
ing to a pump, which are said to have been exe- 
cuted by the hammer of that excellent artist 
before love had raised him from his original hum- 
ble occupation. 

The church of St. Ja#ies contains the sepulchre 
of Rubens, the prince of Flemish painters. It is 
of black marble. The design is extremely sim- 
ple ; and it is appropriately accompanied by one 
of his own paintings, representing himself, his 
three wives, his children, and his parents. The 
windows of this church are much admired, parti- 
cularly a copy of the Eucharist of Leonardo-da- 
Vinci. 

In the church of the Dominicans are some va- 
luable works of Rubens and Vandyke, particu- 
larly " The Scourging of Christ/' his " Bearing the , 



214 



ANTWERP. 



Cross/' and " The Crucifixion/' That, however, 
which the inhabitants of Antwerp prize as highly 
as they do these paintings, will be found in the 
yard of this church, near the entrance. It is a 
representation of Mount Calvary, exhibiting, in 
a rude, but spirited style, the wild and rocky 
grandeur of the place, and thronged with innu- 
merable figures of patriarchs, prophets, and apos- 
tles. On descending some steps under the rock 
the traveller enters the tomb of Christ. The 
Saviour, shrouded in beautiful and costly silk, 
tranquilly sleeps in death ; while around him are 
represented all the horrors of purgatory. The red 
flames strongly glare on the walls* and amidst 
them are delineated the pale and agonized features 
of those who are suffering the ordeal of that dread- 
ful fire. The catholic devoutly crosses himself 
as he gazes on the frightful scene, and the pro- 
testant is not always unaffected ; for, rude as is 
the representation, and almost bordering on the 
burlesque, the tout-en-semble of the place is cal- 
culated to inspire serious and salutary reflection. 

In the church of St. Augustin are other works 
of Rubens and Vandyke, which have been lately 
restored from the Louvre. Two paintings by 
Van Bree, a living artist, possess considerable 
merit. The carved work of the pulpit is much 
admired. The church of St. Walburgh will be 
visited on account of the justly celebrated altar- 
piece by Rubens, entitled, " The Elevation of the 
Cross/' 

From the Exchange of Antwerp, Sir Thomas 
Gresham took the model of that of London. 



ANTWERP. 



215 



The Town-house in the great Market-plaee is a 
noble edifice, constructed entirely of marble. It 
is a singular coincidence, that the very period 
which witnessed the erection of this splendid 
building, marked the rapid decay of the commerce 
and prosperity of Antwerp. 

The public library contains 15,000 volumes, 
but it cannot boast any rare editions or valuable 
MSS. 

Antwerp has no extensive squares, but the 
Market-place, thronged every Friday with the in- 
habitants of the neighbouring villages, presents a 
busy and pleasing scene. 

In the principal street is a crucifix, 33 feet 
high, made from a demolished statue of the Duke 
of Alva. 

This city had the honour of producing two un- 
rivalled painters, Rubens and Vandyke. Teniers, 
Snyders, and Jordans, were likewise natives of 
Antwerp. 

Antwerp boasts of its Academy of the Fine Arts, 
supported at the public expense, and on which 
numerous pupils attend. The sittings are held in 
some of the halls of the Exchange. It contains a 
splendid gallery of paintings by the best Flemish 
masters. The restored plunder of the French con- 
stitutes the most valuable part of the collection. 

A public annual exhibition of the productions of 
the students takes place alternately at Antwerp, 
Brussels, and Ghent ; and the paintings or 
sculptures which gain the prizes, then distributed 
with much solemnity, are purchased by the city 
to which the successful candidate belongs, an^ 



216 



ANTWERP. 



added to the public collection, with his name em- 
blazoned on the frame. 

It must however be acknowledged, that, not- 
withstanding the laudable pains which are taken 
to regain the ancient pre-eminence of the Flemish 
school, there are few artists of modem times whose 
works will bear to be compared with those pro- 
ductions of the great masters, on which every re- 
volving age stamps increasing value. 

Antwerp is gradually becoming the depot of 
the antient and modern Flemish paintings. The 
sale of these interesting works may be said to be 
one of the staple articles of the commerce of the 
place. The true connoisseur may often pick up 
some valuable morceaus, but in no place is the 
tyro more in danger of paying dearly for the in- 
dulgence of his taste. 

The Place de Mer contains several collections 
of paintings for sale. Those of Messrs. Beckman 
and Snyers are the best, and are well worth visiting. 
They usually contain many excellent pieces. 

A fine private collection in the same street is 
likewise open to travellers who can procure a 
recommendation from any respectable inhabitant. 
It belongs to Mr. Van Lanchet, and few noble- 
men possess a gallery more splendid, or intrin- 
sically valuable. Some of the noblest works of 
Teniers, Vandyke, Rubens, Berghem, Cuyp, and 
Wouvermans enrich this museum. 

The chief manufactures of Antwerp are lace, 
which is sold under the name of Mechlin lace ; 
a strong black silk of which the failles, or cover- 
ing for the head, worn by the inferior Flemish 



ANTWERP. 



£17 



women, are made ; a fine black dye ; and the 
bleaching of cotton and thread. 

In 1576 ? Antwerp was sacked by the Spaniards. 
For three days and nights the ferocious soldiery 
were employed in plundering and butchering the 
defenceless inhabitants ; 7,000 burghers of Ant- 
werp perished. The spoil of the conquerors 
amounted to more than 40,000,000 of guilders ; 
and the most beautiful part of the city was burned 
to the ground. 

Antwerp was taken by the Prince of Parma in 
1585, after a memorable siege of more than a 
year, with an army of 120,000 men. 

The principal inns are Le Grand Labourer, the 
St. Anthony's Hotel, the Crown, the Bear, the 
Golden Lion, the English Hotel, and the Little 
Paris. The Swiss, the Emperor's, and the Grand 
Coffee-houses are the most frequented. Fairs of 
thirty days each, for every kind of merchandise, 
commence May 17th and August l6th. 

Opposite to Antwerp, on the east of the Scheldt, 
are some of the excavations for the foundation of 
a new city, which Napoleon intended to erect 
there, and which was to bear his name. 

The, road from Antwerp to Amsterdam is paved, 
and renders travelling sale and expeditious, even 
in winter. 

If the traveller is not pressed for time, I would 
advise him to proceed from Antwerp to Brussels 
by the canal. The fare for the whole distance is 
but three francs, and the beauty of the country on 
each side of the canal abundantly compensates for 



£18 



LIER. 



the delay of the journey. The only inconveni- 
ence attending the voyage is, that at each of the 
principal locks > the passenger and his baggage are 
transferred to a new boat. This occurs four or 
five times between Antwerp and Brussels, but, as 
the bargemen remove every package carefully, 
honestly, and without expense, the tourist has 
little to complain of beside the loss of time. 

The traveller may avoid the circuitous route of 
the first part of the canal by taking the diligence 
as far as Bouin. He must there be ferried over the 
river Rupell, and may proceed to Brussels by the 
trekschuit. If, however, a little delay is no great' 
inconvenience to him, he should perform the whole 
of the journey by the canal. 

For three or four miles after he leaves the walls of 
Antwerp, the country-houses and gardens of the 
merchants present themselves in almost uninter- 
rupted succession. Perhaps there is no city in 
Europe which has so n|any in proportion to its 
population. Some of them, converted into farm- 
houses, or falling to ruin, are sad mementos of the 
former greatness of the place. The road, like 
most of the old roads, is remarkable for its nume- 
rous bendings and sinuosities, but the different 
views which it presents of the country, and the 
villages and chateaux by which it passes, com- 
pensate for its unnecessary length. 

The route lies through Berghem, Rhode, Thore- 
ton, Luytanegem, and before the chateau of Mussen- 
burg. A little before Morsel, a road branches off 
on the left to Lier, the environs of which are 



MECHLIN. 



219 



extremely beautiful. Lier has a large market for 
cattle every week, and supplies the neighbouring 
country with beer. 

Pursuing the route to Mechlin, we pass through 
Conticht, Waerloos, and Heylig-Bloed. Then 
comes the river Nethe, which is crossed by a 
handsome bridge. On the left is Roosendael. 
Then passing through Waelhem, and crossing the 
little river Boemar, we arrive at Quennepoel, and 
soon afterward at Mechlin. 

Mechlin, or M alines is situated on a plain 
intersected by the river Dyle. The streets are 
wide, and many of the houses are unusually 
spacious ; they are often curiously and grotesquely 
constructed, and are as neat as plaster and paint 
can make them. 

The cathedral of St. Rombauld is a tine Gothic 
structure. It was commenced in the 12th century, 
and not completely finished until the fifteenth. The 
grand front is ornamented by statues of the apostles, 
and the figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity, not 
inelegantly executed. The altar-piece, represent- 
ing the Crucifixion, is by Vandyke. The tower, 
which, although unfinished, is of the unusual 
height of 348 feet, commands an extensive view 
of the city and surrounding country. The 
moon shining with great brightness on this 
tower once gave it the appearance of being on 
fire, and the inhabitants ran in crowds to extin- 
guish the flames. Hence it is a common jest with 
the Flemish to say, that the wise men of Mechlin 
wished to put out the moon. This little pleasantry 
fyas been productive of some very serious disputes ; 
u 2 



200 



MECHLIN. 



it has even been the cause of considerable blood- 
shed, and the traveller will do well not to glance 
at it while he remains in the city. 

The church of the Jesuits, and that of our Lady 
of Hanswyk should not be overlooked. The 
portal of the former is a fine specimen of Gothic 
architecture, and the church contains many 
paintings describing the life of St. Xavier, the 
Indian missionary. The pulpit of the latter, re- 
presenting the fall of our first parents, and carved 
out of one tree, is a curious production. The 
figures display great boldness, yet are executed 
with considerable delicacy. 

This church once contained an image of the 
Virgin, held in the profoundest veneration by all 
the neighbouring country. It was brought here 
in a boat, which, impelled by celestial energy, 
pursued its course against the stream, watched by 
a thousand admiring spectators, until it suddenly 
approached the bank and stopped, maintaining 
its position by some invisible power although ex- 
posed to the rapid currenl. The inference was plain. 
The Holy Mother had selected this spot, as the 
future residence and sanctuary of her image. Ac- 
cordingly the Church of Notre Dame was imme- 
diately erected, and innumerable and wonderful 
miracles were performed here. Alas ! this invalu- 
able and heaven-born image perished by impious 
and sacrilegious hands. 

The church of St. John is enriched by one of 
the chef-d'eeuvres of Rubens. It is the grand 
altar-piece, representing the Adoration of the 
Magi. The three paintings above it, depicting the 



MECHLIN. 



221 



Birth of Christ, his Descent from the Cross, and 
his Resurrection, are by the same great master. 

The collegiate church of Notre-Dame contains 
another of the master-pieces of Rubens, viz. " The 
Miraculous Draught of Fishes." The excellence 
of this performance is sufficiently known. 

Near the Antwerp-gate is a convent of Beguins. 
It once contained more then 1,400 sisters, and 
although now exceedingly diminished, is the 
largest institution of the order in the Nether- 
lands. The little chapel annexed to it merits 
some notice. Its architecture is pleasing ; and it 
possesses some valuable paintings. 

Mechlin was formerly a more considerable 
place. Its population and its manufactures have 
much decreased ; it yet however contains 20,000 
inhabitants. It has long been famous for the 
strongest, though not the finest Brabant lace ; but 
the greater part of what is called the Mechlin lace 
is manufactured elsewhere. Mechlin has some 
large breweries, bleaching-grounds, and tan-yards ; 
and is celebrated for its manufactory of excellent 
hats. The brown beer of Mechlin is inferior to 
none that the Netherlands produce, especially 
after it has been some months bottled. 

The Mechlin bacon and hams are in great re- 
quest; and a dish composed of the feet and ears 
of the pig is well known through the whole of 
Belgium, by the name of Dejeuner de Malines. 
Provisions and house-rent are unusually cheap in 
this city. 

The ramparts of Mechlin are much frequented, 
v 3 



MECHLIN. 



and afford many pleasing views of the city and 
neighbouring country. 

The principal inns are the Crane, the Cup, the 
Court of France, the Imperial Court, the Golden 
Lion, and the St. James. The coffee-house of 
Friendship is the most frequented. 

In 1572, Mechlin, like too many of the Dutch 
and Flemish towns, experienced the tender-mercies 
of the Spaniards. On the approach of the army 
of the Duke of Alva, the garrison was disposed to 
defend the place ; but, not being seconded by the 
inhabitants, who were principally catholics, and 
who favoured the cause of Spain, they withdrew, 
rather than offer a fruitless and destructive resist- 
ance. Deputies were immediately sent to the 
Spanish camp, to state this fact, and to declare the 
loyalty of the Mechliners ; but ere they could be 
heard, the Spaniards rushed forward to the city, 
and, some of them scaling the walls, while others 
entered at the gates, spread themselves over the 
place, and plundered and butchered the inhabit- 
ants without mercy. The virgins and matrons 
w r ere violated in the presence of their parents and 
husbands ; and even the churches and convents 
were pillaged equally with the houses of the pri- 
vate citizens. It will scarcely be credited that 
not only no attempt was made by Alva to restrain 
these enormities, but that he afterwards justified 
them by a public manifesto. 

Quitting Mechlin we cross the canal of Louvain, 
and pass by a great many little hotels and plea- 
sure-grounds, much frequented by the inhabitants 



V1LVORDE. 



223 



of Mechlin ; then going through Hombeck, Vor- 
schcnborch, and Halve-Galge, we cross the Senne 
just before we arrive at Semps. A little to the 
left is Weerde. We then pass through Campen- 
hoff, leaving Steenblock and Plenthy on the left, 
and having visited Eppeghen we once more cross 
the Senne, whence the road lies through some luxu- 
riant meadows as far as Vilvorde. 

Tindal, who first translated the New Testament 
into English, suffered martyrdom here in 1536. 

If the traveller has a little time to spare, he will 
derive much pleasure from visiting the church at 
Vilvorde, which has more the appearance of a 
little cathedral than a mere village temple. The 
carving of the stalls of the choir is not inferior to 
that of any cathedral in Belgium. 

The society of Beguins was first established at 
Vilvorde, and a small convent of this order yet 
remains. 

The tourist will find it most convenient and 
pleasant to go from Vilvorde to Brussels by the 
canal. After passing the bridge he sees the house 
of correction, built on so enormous a scale as to 
give no favourable idea of the morals or police of 
the country. It was originally a castle erected by 
Duke Wenceslaus, as early as 1375. 

The traveller then passes through Meuden, op- 
posite the sluice of St. Gertrude, leaving soon 
afterwards Evere on the left. The banks of the 
canal are now almost completely covered by the 
gardens and pleasure-grounds of innumerable 
chateaux. Agreeably interspersed with these are 
hotels, manufactories, and mills. The most beau- 



SCHOENBERG. 



tiful of the country-houses is one built by Mr. 
Waickiers, near the Three Fountains. This 
pretty little hamlet derives its name from a 
column whence three jets of water proceed. It 
is situated near the last lock on the canal, not 
far from Brussels. 

The Senne and the canal here flow through a 
valley, the sides of which are neither abrupt nor 
high, but the chateaux that occupy them have a 
very pleasing appearance. The magnificent 
palace of Schoenberg, of which the canal 
affords a complete view, will principally attract 
the traveller's attention, nor should he fail to visit 
it during his stay at Brussels. The subterranean 
grotto, and the temples of Friendship and the Sun, 
will not be overlooked. 

About a quarter of a league from Schoenberg 
an arm of the Senne passes under the canal, to 
rejoin the other branch from which it had been 
separated. 

Approaching the city we enter the celebrated 
walk " UAllee V zrte" It is composed of a 
triple row of trees on the banks of the canal, the 
prospect of which, with the numerous villas 
around, and the busy varied scene that conti- 
nually presents itself, renders the promenade truly 
delightful. 

The Allee Verte is properly on the right bank 
of the canal, but the other bank is equally planted 
with trees, and as much resorted to. The pro- 
menade extends a mile and a half from the 
walls of the city. The view from the bridge is 
peculiarly beautiful, 



BRUSSELS. 



225 



To give a complete history of Brussels, its 
edifices, and amusements, would occupy a vo- 
lume. 1 shall endeavour to present my reader 
with a brief description of all that is peculiarly 
worthy his attention, earnestly referring him to an 
ingenious publication by Mr. Romberg, entitled 
" Brussels and its Environs," in which he will 
find an accurate and more detailed account of the 
objects which I shall mention, and of many others 
which the limits of my work compel me to pass 
over in silence. 

Bbussels, twenty-four miles s. of Antwerp, is 
the capital of the kingdom of the Netherlands. 
In the salubrity of its air, the beauty of its situa- 
tion, the fineness ot its roads, and the abundance 
and cheapness of provisions, it is inferior to no 
city in Europe. It is partly built on a delightful 
eminence, and partly stretches along the banks of 
the river Senne. The streets, near the park, are 
spacious and airy. The houses are lofty and well 
built. In the neighbourhood of the principal 
market a uniform and pleasing architecture is ob- 
served ; while the fronts of the houses painted of 
a white yellow, or green colour, present an agree- 
able variety. 

The town-hall, situated in the principal square, 
is one of the most beautiful Gothic edifices in the 
Low Countries. Even the strange irregularity 
which prevails in the distribution of the ornaments, 
and the unusual position of the tower at a consi- 
derable distance from the centre, scarcely detract 
from the interest with which the whole is regarded. 
The tower is 364 feet in height, and is sur- 



BRUSSELS. 



mounted by a gigantic gilt statue of St. Michael, 
which serves as a weathercock. 

The great market-place is one of the most re- 
markable in Europe. It is a regular parallelogram 
of great dimensions ; and although the four sides 
are composed of buildings extremely dissimilar in 
style and architecture, they unite to form a plea- 
sing whole. Some inimitable pieces of sculpture 
that once adorned it were destroyed during the 
Revolution. The town-hall, and the halls of 
several of the trading companies of the city, who 
appear to have rivalled each other in the embel- 
lishment of their respective buildings, occupy one 
side of the square* Other halls occupy a second 
side. A third is likewise composed of the halls of 
the corporations, with an ancient Gothic building 
called the King's House, but now become private 
property ; and one uniform edifice completes the 
parallelogram. 

Twenty-one fountains adorn the different streets 
and squares. The most beautiful are that in the 
square du Sablon, built by Lord Bruce, as a 
public expression of gratitude for an agreeable re- 
sidence of forty years in Brussels ; and a much 
celebrated piece of sculpture by Quesnoy, known 
by the name of the Marine ke- Piss. It is an ex- 
quisite statue of a child discharging a stream of 
water in a natural, but not altogether decent 
manner. Louis XIV, as a slight hint of the inde- 
licacy of so public an exposure, presented the 
infant with a rich wardrobe, with which it is some- 
times clothed on days of ceremony. 

The church of St. Gudule and the chapel truly 



BRUSSELS. 



22? 



merit the traveller's attention. They are distin- 
guished for the variety and magnificence of their 
sepulchral ornament*. The pulpit of St. Gudule 
displays unrivalled beauty. In the choir is a 
tomb of black marble, containing the ashes of 
John II. Duke of Brabant. A lion of copper, 
weighing 6,000 pounds, couches on it. A tablet 
of white marble conceals, the entrance to a vault in 
which are deposited the remains of many of the 
archdukes and duchesses of Austria. In the nave 
are fourteen superb statues representing our 
Saviour, his mother, and the twelve apostles. 
Four of them by 'Quesnoy are easily distin- 
guished. The altar of the miraculous host was 
the pride of the catholics, and the admiration of 
strangers. 

The church of Sablon contains the magnificent 
tomb of the princes of Latour-Taxis, which has 
always been esteemed one of the chief ornaments of 
Brussels. The church of the convent of the Au- 
gustines should not be overlooked. 

The principal theatre is situated near the Mint. 
It is ill built, and during the long war of the Re- 
volution, a theatrical taste had much declined in 
Brussels. The stranger will be surprised and 
angry at the incessant noise of a Flemish au- 
dience, during the representation of the most inte- 
resting pieces. Another theatre is situated in the 
park, and has lately been engaged by a company 
of English actors. 

During the first return of Louis XVIII. to 
France, this city was becoming the favourite resort 
Of numerous English families, on account of the 



££8 



BRUSSELS. 



beauty of the situation, and the cheapness of pro- 
visions. 

St. MichaelVsquare, near the new street De la 
Loi, should be visited. It is a parallelogram 
formed by noble buildings of the same architec- 
ture, adorned by columns of the Doric order. 
Since the pavement in the middle has been taken 
up, and numerous lime-trees have been planted, 
this square has become a favourite promenade. 
The Park however affords a much superior walk. 
It is a large garden laid out with the greatest taste, 
intersected in every direction by wide and beauti- 
ful walks bordered by lofty trees, and inter- 
spersed with numerous pleasing lawns ornamented 
with fountains and statues. Some of the statues are 
exquisitely sculptured. In the centre is a magni- 
ficent basin well stocked with gold and silver fish. 
On either side of the principal walk a deep valley, 
shaded by some noble trees, affords a delicious 
retreat from the heat of the sun. The Park con- 
tains a theatre, a ball-room, a coffee-house, and an 
excellent traiteur. 

The buildings that surround the Park are 
very magnificent. The Imperial Court is oppo- 
site to the principal entrance, and in the centre of 
the noble street De la Loi, the whole of which 
forms one noble facade. On the right (as the 
traveller faces the Park) is the street Royale, 
leading to the Imperial and Royal square, remark- 
able for the sumptuousness of its buildings, and 
the uniformity of its architecture, and particularly 
for the incomparable portico of the new church of 
Coudenbejg. Six Corinthian columns, sustaining 



BRUSSELS. 



229 



a simple but majestic pediment, produce a strik- 
ing effect. Continuing our progress, the street 
Belle-Vue conducts to Louvain Square ; and 
proceeding thence, Due ale street completes the 
circumference of the Park. 

In the halls of " The Old Court," is a valuable, 
but not very numerous collection of Flemish 
paintings. Many of the choicest performances 
were stolen by the French during their occupation 
of the Netherlands. The public library in the 
same building contains 12,000 volumes. A botanic 
garden, a cabinet of natural history, and a splen- 
did collection of philosophical instruments are 
likewise found here. 

Charles V. resigned his dominions to his son 
Philip at this place in 1555, and the chair on 
which he sat. is religiously preserved. 

Brussels now contains about 100,000 inhabi- 
tants. Its principal manufactures are fine lace, 
tapestry, and camblets. The chief inns are the 
Flemish, the Swedish, the English, and the New- 
York hotels, the Prince of Wales, and the Belle- 
Vue near the Park. The Hot eh garnis, those 
miserable substitutes for inns at Paris, are un- 
known at Brussels ; but furnished lodgings, pos- 
sessed of every convenience, and at a moderate 
rate, are readily found. The Mint by Gehot ; the 
Coffee-house of Friendship, by Dufry ; the Grand 
Coffee-house, by Letellier ; and the Turk, by 
Touchard, are the best coffee-houses. There are 
two meat-markets abundantly supplied, and more 
than twenty Others for corn, fruit, butter, cheese, 
eggs, fish, poultry, &c. A fair of twelve days 
x 



£30 



WATERLOO. 



begins on May the 22d; and another of fourteen 
days, on the 18th of October, for every kind of 
merchandise. 

No true Englishman will pursue his route from 
Brussels until he has visited the field of Waterloo. 
The village of Waterloo is nine miles from Brus- 
sels, and the road to it is through the forest of 
Soignies. The view of Brussels, a little before the 
entrance of the forest, is deservedly admired ; but 
after this nothing but a tangled impervious wood 
presents itself for eight miles, occasionally relieved 
by a few scattered hamlets. The traveller 
emerges from the forest at the village of Waterloo, 
where perhaps he will pause a moment, to read 
the simple tablets in the little church, the affec- 
tionate tribute of their surviving companions to the 
memory of a few of those " who gloriously fell in 
the battles of Quatre-Bras and Waterloo." 

More than a mile from Waterloo is the hamlet 
of Mont-St.-Jean, containing nothing remarkable 
to attract the attention of the stranger. At this 
place the road is divided. The branch on the 
left conducts to Genappe, and that on the right to 
Nivelies. Half a mile in advance of the village is 
the farm-house of Mont-St.-Jean, on the road to 
the farm of La-Haye-Sainte, and in the immediate 
rear of the British position. 

The traveller pursues the road to Genappe, and 
passes by the farm of Mont-St.-Jean. The forest 
has quite dissappeared. The road suddenly rises, 
and an easy ascent leads to a kind of ridge. This 
ridge and the ground behind it were occupied by 
the British army. 



WATERLOO. 



231 



The corn again waves over the fields that 
were so lately dyed with blood, and almost all the 
dreadful traces of slaughter have ceased to appear. 
Sufficient objects, however, remain to enable the 
tourist to form a correct idea of the positions of 
the contending armies, and the very places on 
which most of those heroic deeds were performed, 
that will ever be emblazoned in the records of 
fame. I will point out these land-marks, which 
will enable him easily to follow the historian in 
his description of this glorious and decisive battle. 
A detailed account of the transactions of this 
well-fought day would suit neither the plan nor 
the limits of the present work. For this I must 
refer the reader to my history of " The Second 
Usurpation of Buonaparte/* to the accuracy of 
which I am enabled to say, that that extra- 
ordinary personage has yielded his voluntary tes- 
timony. In " Paul's Letters to his Kinsfolk/'' a 
spirited and faithful account of this sanguinary- 
contest is given. The generality of the historians 
of that day have given very erroneous estimates 
of the respective forces of Napoleon and the Duke 
of Wellington, and very uncandid and untrue ac- 
counts of the progress and termination of the 
battle. They forgot that the unrivalled skill of 
the British commander, and the unconquerable 
bravery of his troops, needed no false and ex- 
aggerated statements to gain the applause and 
gratitude of the present age, and the admiration of 
posterity. 

Mr. Romberg has, with my consent, embodied 
much of my description of the battle of Waterloo 
x 2 



232 



WATERLOO. 



in his valuable work entitled " Brussels and its Envi- 
rons/ 5 and candour compels me to acknowledge that 
he has added some important and interesting facts. 

When the traveller ascends the ridge, he will 
observe a solitary tree raising its straggling branches, 
and yet bearing evident marks of the bullets that 
had shattered its trunk. This was the centre of the 
British position, and as the Duke of Wellington 
was posted on this spot during the greater part of 
the day, it is immortalized by the name of the 
Wellington tree. 

The British lines extended along this ridge to 
the right and left, defended on the left by a hedge 
which stretches from Mont-St.- Jean towards Ohain. 
On the extreme right, following the natural' di- 
rection of the ridge, they turned back towards 
Brussels, and were protected by a ravine. In front 
is a little valley, not regularly formed, but with 
numerous gentle windings and hollows, It varies 
in breadth from a quarter to half a mile. This 
was the scene of the murderous conflict. The 
opposite ridges, and running parallel to Mont-St.- 
Jean, were occupied by the French. 

A little in front of the tree, and close by the 
road, is La-Haye-Sainte, the object of the second 
desperate attack in the middle of the battle. The 
back part of the building was much shattered by 
the cannon and musket balls, and the interior 
witnessed the most dreadful carnage. Near this 
farm likewise took place the conflict between the 
Imperial guards and the British, which decided the 
fate of the day. 

To the right, and in the centre of the valley, is 



WATERLOO. 



£33 



the Chateau-de-Goumont, (called Hougoumont in 
the despatches). It continues to bear sad marks 
of the injury it suffered. 

On the left is the farm of Ter-la-Haye, where 
the ground, becoming woody and irregular, pre- 
sented a strong position for the termination of the 
British lines. 

Pursuing the road to Charleroi, and on the 
ridge exactly opposite to the British centre, is La 
Belle Alliance. It is not only a small farm-house, 
but an inn of the humbler kind, and is kept by M. 
Dedave. It was the position of Buonaparte during 
the greater part of the engagement, until he ad- 
vanced to a kind of sand-bank when he headed the 
last charge ; and near this spot, Wellington and 
Blucher met after the battle was decided. 

With these hints the traveller will immediately 
recognize the most interesting situations of the field. 

Relics of the battle, consisting of helmets, 
cuirasses, sabres, &c. , will be offered to the 
stranger. A most exorbitant price will some- 
times be demanded ; and occasionally no little 
abuse will be lavished on him if he refuse to be- 
come a purchaser. 

SECT. XVIII. Route from Brussels to Maestricht. 

Posts. Milts. 

Brussels to Cortenberg. , ...... if 9% 

Cortenberg to Louvain . , f 1 \ 8 \ 

Louvain to Tirlemont ♦ . . ♦ 2\ . . 12| 

Tirlemont to Saint Trond , 2 J ........ 1 2| 



48 



234 



CORTENBERCr. 



Saint Trond to Tongres 
Extra Charge for 3d Horse. 



Brought over 



Posts. 



7i 

2J 



Mile?. 

.43 
,12§ 



Tongres to Maestricht , 

Extra Charge for 3d Horse. 



121 



68 



Quitting Brussels by the gate of Louvain the 
traveller passes through the suburb of St. Jooster- 
ten-Noode. When he has ascended the hill, he 
should turn and once more contemplate the de- 
lightful vale in which the city is placed. The 
river Senne and the canal are seen at intervals 
through the -whole valley, and as they wind to 
issue from each extremity, they seem to be shut in 
by an insuperable barrier. Numerous small 
streams branch off from the main river, and divide 
the little hills that surround the plain. Brussels 
occupies the centre of the valley, and appears to 
be placed there to add the noblest ornaments of art 
to the unrivalled beauties of nature. 

Bidding farewell to this delightful spot, he leaves 
Schaerebeck and Evere on the left. Then pass- 
ing through Saint-Stevens-Woluwe, he leaves 
Cranheim on the right, and Saventhem and 
Nosseghem on the left, and arrives at the village 
and post-house of Cortenberg. Here the as- 
sembly of the states of Brabant used to be held. 

Leaving Cortenberg, he passes Erps a?.d Qua- 
rebbe'on the left. The road then lies through the 
hamlet of Schomar, after which Beyssem and 



LOUVAIN. £35 

Wethem are on the left. He then passes along a 
wood, and leaving Winxel on the left* arrives at 
Laesten-Stuyver. Here is a hill known by the 
name of the " Iron Mountain," because its whole 
substance is impregnated with iron ochre. A 
great part of the road from Brussels to Louvain is 
bordered with trees, and the most pleasant pro- 
spects are continually offered to the view. 
- Louvain is a large but ill-built town of a cir- 
cular form on the Dyle. The walls, surmounted 
by ten bulky turrets fast hastening to -decay, are 
nearly seven miles in circumference;' but the prin- 
cipal space is occupied by gardens and vineyards. 
Its foundation has been attributed to Julius Caesar. 
Its chief traffic is in beer, of which there are three 
kinds, the strongest, called Petennan, the exporta- 
tion of which was formerly forbidden ; the Caniak, 
which is the common table-beer of the superior 
classes in Louvain ; and the beer of Louvain, 
which is exported to every part of the Netherlands. 

Louvain contains about 40,000 inhabitants. In 
the 14th century it is said to have contained 
150,000, and to have been celebrated for its cloth 
manufactories; but the emigration of the clothiers 
in the time of Wenceslaus, Duke of Brabant, was a 
blow which it never recovered. 

The Catholic University at Louvain, formerly 
the most eminent in Europe, was suppressed, and 
converted by the French into an hospital for in- 
valids. By an edict, however, dated February 19, 
1817> it is ordered that this institution shall be re- 
established. The Town-hall is much admired. 
The numerous carved figures that enrich the front 



236 MONTAIGNE.— ARSCHOT, &C. 

exhibit, even amidst the decays of time, evident 
traces of the most exquisite workmanship. It is 
the most perfect and beautiful specimen of this 
kind of Gothic architecture in Belgium, or per- 
haps in the world. 

The Collegiate Church yields to few in the 
Netherlands. It was formerly ornamented by a 
spire of the extraordinary height of nearly 500 
feet, which, without any apparent cause, suddenly 
fell to the ground in the beginning of the 17th 
century. 

A parochial church, formerly belonging to the 
Jesuits, is remarkable for its noble simplicity. 

A fair of ten days begins on the first Sunday in 
September for every kind of merchandise. 

The best inn is the Hotel de Cologne. 

Sixteen miles n.e. of Louvain is Montaigne, 
famous for a supposed miraculous image of the 
Virgin Mary. 

Four miles west of Montaigne is Arschot* 
This town was in the 12th century the capital of 
a barony, and gave title to a noble family of the 
name of Arschot. 

When the traveller comes from Louvain the 
Park is on his right ; he then passes through Cor- 
beek-Overloo, and the end of Lovenjoul, and 
after skirting a wood, arrives at a steep hill. Bau- 
tersem next presents itself. The road then passes 
through some meadows to the river Velp ; crossing, 
which, Wertrycht is on the right, and Nerbutzelon 
on the left; then leaving Roosbeeck at a little distance, 
we arrive at the valley and barrier of Tirlemont. 

Tirlemont was formerly a considerable city* 



TIRLEMONT. 



237 



but suffered much by a fire in 1704, and was 
almost entirely ruined by the wars of the revolu- 
tion. Near the gate going to Saint Trond are 
three enormous artificial mounds, supposed to have 
been erected by some of the barbarous tribes in 
commemoration of victory. 

The church of Notre Dame in the great square 
was served by married priests. This deviation 
from the Romish ritual, renders the building an 
object of some curiosity to the traveller, and the 
clergymen were distinguished by the epithet of 
" Pretres a Poule" or Pullet-Priests. 

Near Tirlemont the Austrians were defeated by 
the French in 1792, but beat them on the same 
ground in the following year. It has a consider- 
able trade in grain and geneva ; but its manufac- 
tories of woollen stuffs have much declined. The 
inhabitants are 8,000. 

The square in the centre of the town is un- 
usually large, and the town-hall situated in it is a 
building of great antiquity. 

The road from Tirlemont, although it cannot 
claim the title of romantic, is exceedingly pleasing, 
from the evident proofs which it gives of the wealth 
and fertility of the country. Comfortable farm- 
houses, populous villages, and neat cottages pre- 
sent themselves in almost uninterrupted succession. 

The soil is extremely fertile, consisting of a 
happy mixture of sand with light clay. 

As we quit Tirlemont, Rost is on the right and 
Grunde on the left. Crossing the river we soon 
come to Haed, and passing near Haeckdenovcr, 
arrive at the valley and meadows of Boschelle, 



258 LAN DEN, — SAINT TROND. 



opposite to Overhespen and Neerhespen. A road 
is here continued straight to Landen, famous for 
the bloody victory gained in the neighbouring plain 
of Neerwinden by the French over the Allies in 
1693, and by the Austrians over the French in 
1793. It is a town of much antiquity, and was 
the residence of the Dukes of Brabant. It now, 
however, is merely a confused mass of cottages 
surrounded by dilapidated walls. Pepin, first 
Duke of Brabant, and founder of the Carlovingian 
dynasty, died, and was buried here in 647. The 
ruins of his palace are yet to be traced. The 
names of many villages in the neighbourhood 
testify that this was formerly a royal residence, 
as Pepins-Hoff or the court of Pepin ; Raths- 
Hoven, or the Court of the Council ; Alten- 
Hoven, or the Old Court; Arent-Garden, or the 
Falconry. 

The road of Saint-Trond bends to the left, and 
leaves Landen three miles on the south. Pursuing 
this road, and passing through Gutsenhoven, we 
arrive at the river Gette ; then traversing the 
meadows for one mile and a half, crossing a 
rivulet, and passing near Orsmael, we soon arrive 
at Halle, Leau is now on the left, and the hill 
and plain where was fought the battle of 1568. 
Then come the valley and marsh of Asbrock, 
beyond which, leaving Halmael on the right, and 
passing the bridge, mill, and rivulet of Stayen, 
and a little hill, we reach Saint-Trond. 

Saint-Trond is a very ancient town pleasantly 
situated, with a venerable Benedictine Abbey. It 
was formerly a place of great note, when thousands 



TONGRES. 



£39 



of pilgrims repaired to the shrine of Saint-Trond 
every year at Easter. 

Quitting St. Trond, St. Pierre is on the right, 
and Brustem on the left ; we then pass a hill, a 
river and a bridge, leaving Nerin on the right. 
A little afterwards we quit the road to Liege, and 
turn to the left; Rickel is soon on our left, and 
Groot-Gelmet on our right. Then passing a hill, 
we arrive at Melshoven. Crossing the river Herck, 
and a considerable hill, we have Metteehoven on 
our right, and Voordt on our left. We now as- 
cend a steep hill, pass the road which conducts 
to Looz, rapidly descend, cross the valley, and soon 
afterward leave G root- Loon on our left. We then 
go close by Bovershoven, and leaving Hiren en 
our left, cross a hill, on the other side of which is 
a river and bridge with Pirange on the left. We 
then ascend another hill, with a steep descent on 
the other side, cross the valley, and leaving Belau 
and Mulcken on the left, and Coningsheim on the 
right, arrive at Tongres. 

Tongues or Tongere"N" on the Jecker, is said 
to have been built by Tongrus its first king, one 
hundred years before the foundation of Rome. It 
was the capital of Gallia Belgica, and numerous 
Roman coins are often discovered in the neighbour- 
hood. It was sacked by Attila, king of the Huns, 
in 455, and has often suffered by war. The 
cathedral is supposed to be the most ancient on 
the north of the Alps. Tongres possesses several 
mineral springs, which are mentioned by Pliny, 
and said to rival in virtue the celebrated waters of 
the Spa. It contains about 3,000 inhabitants. 



240 



MAASTRICHT. 



After quitting Tongres we travel over some most 
miserable road, and leaving Berg and Henis on the 
left, and Malle and Sluse on the right, and then 
crossing a valley, G roes-He] deren is on the left. 
We now pass near Melin, and soon afterwards 
leave Falle on our right, and Herderen on our left. 
Then going through Rymps, leaving Vletighem 
on the left, and Montenaken and Wilre on the 
right, and crossing a valley, we arrive at Maestricht. 

Maestricht is a beautiful town on the Meuse, 
very strongly fortified, and lately the capital of 
the department of the lower Meuse. It communi- 
cates with Wyk by a stone bridge, of eight stone 
arches, with a wooden arch in the centre, which 
may be expeditiously taken to pieces on the ap- 
proach of an enemy. The bridge is much admired 
'and is 500 feet in length. 

Maestricht was called by the Romans Trajectum 
Superius, the name of Trajectum Inferius being 
given to Utrecht. 

There are two principal squares. The Town-hall 
is in the centre of one of them, in which the market 
is held. It is constructed in imitation of that of 
Amsterdam. The interior of the building is com- 
modious and elegant ; and on the third floor is the 
city library, consisting of a good selection of modern 
books. 

The other square contains more handsome 
buildings, and is agreeably planted with trees. 

The church of St. Servatius is built in the most 
simple style of architecture, yet pleases the spec- 
tator by the propriety and grandeur of its general 
appearance. 



MAESTRICHT. 



241 



The churches of St. Matthew and St. John are, 
with great liberality, resigned to the Dutch pro- 
testants. The Lutherans likewise have a neat 
and well-frequented chapel. 

The chief manufactories are of leather, pins, 
soap, brandy, and fire-arms. The boots and 
shoes of Maestricht are unrivalled for strength and 
durability. If so trivial a circumstance may be 
recorded in a work like the present, the traveller 
will not forget that the gingerbread of this town is 
most excellent, and is in great request in every 
part of Flanders. The breweries are likewise much 
celebrated. The number of inhabitants are 18,000, 
They are principally Catholic, but the magistrates 
are chosen equally from the professors of the 
catholic and reformed religion, or rather there is 
a magistrate for each profession. 

A royal college is about to be established in 
Maestricht. 

Maestricht is remarkable for the great proportion 
of inhabitants who possess a moderate competence : 
the society is consequently peculiarly desirable. 
The ramparts afford some pleasant walks, as does 
the neighbourhood of the arsenal, and the banks 
of the Meuse, overhung by steep and romantic 
rocks, particularly near the church of the Virgin. 
The chief inns are the Hare, the Helmet, the 
Half-Moon (Hake Maan), the Post-Horse (Fost- 
Paard), the Three Kings, the Greyhound, and 
the Windmill. 

A boat goes every day from Maestricht to Liege 
in six hours, Two fairs of fifteen days each com- 

Y 



242 



MAESTRICHT. 



mence on May 13th, and the second Sunday in 
September. 

In 1579 Maestricht was besieged by the Prince 
of Parma. The patriots offered a brave resistance, 
and baffled many furious assaults made by the 
best troops of Spain ; but the garrison being 
fatigued after a hard day's contest, neglected some 
necessary precaution. The eagle eye of the 
Spanish commander discovered the neglect. He 
led his troops to a sudden attack, and made himself 
master of the ramparts ere the patriots were 
aware of his approach. The whole of the garrison 
was put to the sword. An indiscriminate mas- 
sacre of the inhabitants then commenced ; and out 
of 8,000, who had borne arms against the besiegers , 
only 300 escaped. 

Near Maestricht in the hill of St. Peter is a 
stone quarry, the subterranean passages of which 
extend four leagues in length, and branch oif to 
the distance of a league on each side. There are 
said to be 160,000 different avenues, each twelve 
feet wide, and varying from six to twenty-four 
feet in height. Of all the persons employed in 
the quarries, not more than a dozen are acquainted 
with the intricacies of the passages. The workmen 
usually hang a lantern on the necks of the horses, 
and then commit themselves to the instinct of these 
animals, who never fail to extricate them safely 
from the mazes of the labyrinth. Many avenues 
have fallen in, owing to the negligence or avarice 
of the proprietors, for every holder of land has a 
right to explore under his own fields. 



HASSELT.— DJEST.— S1CHEM, &C. 243 



Several of the inhabitants of Maestricht possess 
extensive collections of the fossil remains that have 
been discovered in this immense quarry. 

From the summit of the hill is an extensive and 
beautiful view of the town, the river, and the 
surrounding country. 

I must here mention the little town of Hassel£ 
on the left of the road which we have been de- 
scribing. It is allowed to be the prettiest town in 
Liege, though its fortificationa are all demolished. 
At the distance of a league is the noble abbey of 
Hesenkenrode 

Di est is on the Demer, twenty miles N. e. of 
Louvain. It carries on a considerable manu- 
facture of cloth and stockings, and is said to pro- 
duce very fine beer. 

Sichem, four miles w. of Diest, has a large 
monastery. 

Judqigne is fifteen miles s. s. e. of Louvain. 
The ruins of an ancient castle are seen here, in 
which the Dukes of Brabant used to educate their 
children. 

SECT. XIX. — Route from Maestricht to 
Ruremonde. 

I will here delineate the course of the Meuse 
until it touches the territories of Prussia, that our 
work may not be left incomplete ; but the tra- 
veller will find the more beautiful scenery of this 
river between Maestricht and Namur which I shall 
presently describe. I shall enumerate the places 
Y .2 



244 ROUT*E FROM MAESTRICHT 



which occur on the post-road. This skirts the 
river during the whole distance, and commands 
its most interesting views. 

Posts. Miles. 

Maestricht to Reckem . 1| .... 8£ 

Extra charge for 3d horse. 
Reckem to Susteren ... , lj .... 8 J 

Extra charge for 3d horse. 
Susteren to Ruremonde ...... 2 \ .... 12 J 

Extra charge for 3d horse. 

H 29 



Soon after quitting Maestricht we ascend a steep 
hill, leaving Opharen on the right, on the other 
side of the river ; Lonaken is now on the left. 
Then succeeds a hill, on the other side of which 
is a river ; beyond this is Iteern on the left, and 
passing near Neerharen, and crossing another 
river, we reach Reckem. 

Beyond Reckem is another rivulet. Gremi is 
then on the left, and Borsem on the right. Cross- 
ing another river the road goes through Mechelen 
and Wacht, beyond which is Esden on the left. 
The traveller now comes to Locdt, and leaving 
the wood of Stockem on his left, crosses a river ; 
and having Maeswick on his right, and Lanlaert 
on his left, arrives at Stockem. Quitting Stockem, 
Oblichc is on his right on the other side of the 
Meuse. He then crosses another river, passes 
through Dilscn, leaves Papenhoven on his right, 
visits Roth em, follows the course of a river for a 



HUKEMONDE VENLOO. 245 



little distance, traverses Eclen, crosses another _ 
river, and leaving Heppener on the right, arrives 
at Maseyck, where he crosses the Meuse, and 
soon reaches Susteren. Quitting Susteren he 
leaves Hacken on his right, and passing through 
Linne arrives at Ruremonde. 

Ru re monde is situated at the conflux of the 
Roer with the Meuse. Mercator the geographer 
was born here. Its manufactories are ribandt and 
velvets, and the number of inhabitants is 4,000. A 
fair of eight days begins on June the 13th. 

Twelve miles n. of Ruremonde is Venloo 
belonging to Prussia, but on the very borders of 
the Netherlands. It contains 4,000 inhabitants, 
and is a depot for merchandise from all the 
countries bordering on the Meuse and the Rhine. 
The invention of bombs is attributed to an inha- 
bitant of Venloo. Fairs of fifteen days each begin 
May 1st, and June 24th. 



SECT. XX. Route from Maestricht through 
Aix-la-Chapelle to Liege. 

Posts. Miles. 

Maestricht to Aix-la-Chapelle .. 4 .... 22 

Extra charge for 3d horse. 

Aix-la-Chapelle to Battice .... 3 . . . . -l6j 
Extra charge for 3d horse. 

Battice to Liege , . . . Sg .... 13 J 

_ . - 

y 3 



246 



ROUTE FROM M A ESTRICHT, 



As in the next route the traveller will be con- 
ducted through the beautiful scenery of the Meuse, 
I shall here take him a little circuit to visit Aix-la- 
Chapelle, which, though now attached to Prussia, 
is too near the boundaries of the Netherlands, and 
too interesting to be overlooked. 

Crossing the Meuse, and leaving Opharen on 
his left, the traveller goes through Wyk, which 
is the suburb of Maestricht, then passing Lumel 
on his left, he crosses the river, and leaving 
Heughem, Heer, and Keer, on his right, arrives 
at Ambi. Then climbing a rapid ascent and 
leaving Bemelem on his right, and Saint-Ghierlach, 
Holtem, and Berg on his left, he comes to 
Terbleyt. He now descends a hill, and leaves 
Fauquemont on his left. 

Fauquemont or Valkenburg enjoys all the privi- 
leges of the largest city. It is the ancient Corio- 
vallum. Two venerable monasteries in the neigh- 
bourhood will repay the stranger's curiosity. 

Huntem and Mariengrat are now on the right, 
and after a rapid ascent leaving Strucht on the left, 
and as rapid a descent, and skirting a small w T ood 
with Cartrels on the left, the road lies through 
Gulpen. Then crossing the river Gulp, and a 
small hill with Pesken on the right, and soon 
afterwards Simpelvelt on the left, and Cassel on 
the right, the traveller arrives at Wittem. He 
next crosses another river, goes through Partney, 
climbs and immediately descends a hill, passes 
near Mechelen, leaves Nieswiler on the left, and 
Epen on the right, and reaches Holset or Helsart. 
Traversing a little wood, and leaving Lemiers on 



VAELS. — AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 247 



the left, he passes through Vaels at the distance 
of a league from Aix-la-Chapelle. 

This village contains many cloth-manufactories 
on an extensive and magnificent scale. They are 
principally confined to the use of Spanish wool, 
and some numerous flocks of Merino sheep are 
kept in the neighbourhood. 

Vaels will afford considerable pleasure to the 
enlightened traveller on account of the liberal 
spirit that prevails in it. It is almost equally in- 
habited by Catholics, Lutherans, Anabaptists, and 
Jews ; yet in a country usually too intolerant, these 
different sects live together in perfect harmony and 
sociality. 

The traveller now crosses a little river, and 
ascending, and again speedily descending a hill, he 
at length arrives at Aix-la-Chapelle, embosomed in 
a beautiful. vale. 

Aix-la-Chapelle was. formerly an imperial 
city, and sent deputies to the diet of the empire. 
It was built by the Romans, was pillaged by the 
Huns in 451, and rebuilt by Charlemagne, who 
fixed his residence here. Its name is derived from 
its warm baths, and the chapel built by Charle- 
magne. The emperors of Germany used to be 
crowned here with great pomp. Ferdinand, the 
brother of Charles V, was the last monarch who 
received the crown in this place.. It then contained 
more than 100,000 inhabitants, but the impolitic 
illiberality of the trading guilds or corporations 
drove most of the industrious mechanics to other 
places. 

The Town-hall is a Gothic edifice possessing 



248 AlX-LA-CH r APK LI/E, 



little remarkable except its ancient towers, one of 
which is called the Tower of Granus, and was 
built by the Romans, and the spacious hall in 
which the Emperors dined in public on the day of 
their coronation. Opposite is a fountain interest- 
ing on account of its antiquity, and the exquisite 
statue of gilt copper of Charlemagne with which 
it has been adorned. The statue is placed on a 
pedestal in the centre of a basin 30 feet in circum- 
ference. The Great Church was built by the 
Emperor Otho, w ho was crowned here in 9$3. 
Part of his tomb of black marble yet remains, but 
it has been sadly mutilated and contracted, be- 
cause it was supposed to obstruct the view of the 
principal altar. 

The emperors were' usually crowned in the 
Cathedral, until the middle of the 14th century, 
when the place of coronation was removed to 
Frankfort on the Maine. 

The choir of this church is an exquisite spe- 
cimen of Gothic architecture. The noble columns 
that once adorned the edifice, w r ere taken away 
by the French during the Revolution. They are 
now to be seen in the Royal Museum at Paris. 

Among other relics of antiquity, the Great 
Church contains the tomb of Charlemagne, of 
singular beauty, but the demand for shewing it is 
very exorbitant. Under the dome is a massy- 
chair of white marble in which his body was 
placed in the tomb, and on which the emperors- 
used afterwards to sit at their coronation* 

A plain stone is likewise shewn with this simple 
inscription " Carolo Magno,"- Underneath were 



A1X-LA-CH APELLE. 



249 



deposited the remains of this illustrious monarch* 
His body was afterwards removed from its peaceful 
abode, and some golden vessels richly ornamented 
are exhibited which are said to contain many of his 
bones. Charlemagne was born at Aix, it was his 
favourite place of residence and here he closed 
his eventful life. 

This church contains a variety of curious relics, 
Some of them are of inestimable value. They are 
enclosed in a shrine of solid gold and were for- 
merly exhibited to the sacred eyes of majesty alone. 
They are now, however, publicly displayed on 
the altar every seventh year ; and devotees crowd 
from the most distant parts to gaze upon them, and 
to experience the miraculous powers which they 
yet retain. They consist of the swaddling-cloths, 
and the winding-sheet of the blessed Saviour, the 
robe of the Virgin Mary, and the shroud of John 
the Baptist. 

Other relics are daily exhibited to those who 
are willing to pay for the privilege of beholding 
such sacred things. The catalogue of these is 
long and interesting. The traveller will particu- 
larly notice some of the manna by which the 
Israelites were miraculously fed in the wilderness ; 
the leathern girdle of the Saviour, and the linen 
one of his holy mother ; some of the hair of the 
Virgin ; a fragment of the cross, and the head 
and arm of the Emperor Charlemagne. 

Previous to the Revolution, this sacred cata- 
logue was swelled by numerous other mysterious 
articles. On the approach of the French, these 



250 AIX-LA-CH APELLE. 



treasures were hastily conveyed into the interior 
of Germany, and placed under the safe custody 
of the Emperor; but when the danger was passed, 
and the holy relics were reclaimed, that monarch 
retained some of them as the price of the protection 
which he afforded the rest. Among the articles thus 
withheld were the sword of Charlemagne, some of 
the earth that was dyed with the blood- of the 
martyr Stephen , and a copy of the Gospel written 
in letters of gold. 

The streets of this city are spacious, and pos- 
sess some handsome buildings, particularly in the 
quarter called Compthausbad. 

The hill of Louisberg affords a noble view of. 
the city and neighbouring country. An obelisk was 
erected upon it in honour of Napoleon. After his dis- 
graceful retreat from Saxony, the Cossacks hurled 
it from its situation, and completely destroyed even 
the foundations, to obtain the coins that were de- 
posited there. The King of Prussia, much to his 
honour, has caused the obelisk to be again erected, 
but it bears evident marks of the injury it sus- 
tained. The inscriptions in praise of Napoleon, 
have been erased, and others substituted descrip- 
tive of his rapid and total overthrow. 

On the side of the hill is a chapel crowded with 
images, concerning each of which some pious, 
but incredible legend is told. A long procession 
of devout worshippers issues from Aix every 
Lent to prostrate themselves before these sacred 
shrines. 

The scenery on the north of Aix is exceedingly 



AIX-L A-CH APEL3LE. 



diversified and picturesque, especially on and 
around the hills of Salvator berg and Wein- 
gartsberg. 

Aix-la-Chapelle is principally celebrated for its 
warm baths, which are much frequented. They 
contain a considerable portion of super-sulphurated- 
hydrogen gas, and are at the extraordinary tempe- 
rature of 143° Fahrenheit. The taste is at first 
exceedingly nauseous to the stranger, but he gra- 
dually becomes habituated to it, and derives con- 
siderable benefit, if afflicted with any cutaneous 
or scrofulous disease. The external use of the 
baths is likewise remarkably efficacious in the cure 
of many cutaneous eruptions. 

The waters of Aix contain likewise much saline 
matter, principally carbonate and muriate of soda, 
and carbonate of lime; they are, consequently, 
useful in cases of visceral obstruction, and in all 
diseases of the digestive organs. 

One spring, called the Campas, is cold. This 
is less strongly impregnated with sulphurous and 
saline matter, and less efficacious in the removal 
of disease, but it is much used on account of its 
temperature, and because it is less nauseous to the 
taste.'. 1 yiii vfl tr >bmnA 8jsv/ rbidw im\t hV*i5on 

The principal seasons for frequenting the baths 
are before and after that of Spa, from the begin- 
ning of May to the middle of June, and from the 
middle of August to the end of September. 

The expense of bathing and drinking the waters, 
depends on the pocket and pride of the visitor. 
The prices of the baths are various, regulated 
more by the rank which each occupies in . the 



A1X-LA-CHAPELLE. 

scale of fashion, than by any material difference 
in their medicinal properties. At the Queen of 
Hungary, the price is only a franc each time, if 
used for more than a week ; or a franc and a half 
for a single bathing. The vapour-bath is two 
francs and a half. If the invalid chooses to lodge 
at this bath, he is charged the small sum of four 
francs and a half for his bed-room, breakfast, and 
daily bathing. At the other baths, the expense is 
considerably more ; and, indeed, the usual charge 
at the hotels at Aix may be truly said to be shame- 
fnlly exorbitant. 

Aix contains 27,000 inhabitants, and has a 
theatre, and a garden resembling the Vauxhall of 
the British metropolis. 

The principal manufactures are woollen-cloths, 
Prussian blue, ammonia, and white soap. The 
needle manufactory is not inferior to any in Eu- 
rope, and will be viewed with considerable interest 
by the traveller. Messrs. Jecker's manufactory 
of pins should likewise be visited : 150 or 180 
pounds of pins are often made in a week, each 
pound containing about 1,000 pins. 

Among the benevolent institutions of Aix should 
be noticed that which was founded by the Empress 
Josephine in the former convent of St. Theresa. 
It is a school for the education of the children of 
the poor, and a place of refuge for the indigent of 
every description. The good effects of this insti- 
tution are universally acknowledged. The streets 
of Aix once swarmed with beggars, who were the 
very nuisance of the place ; and now a mendicant 
is rarely seen. 



LIMBURG. 



353 



The chief inns are the Grand Monarque, the 
Holland Hotel, the Golden Dragon, the Great 
St. Martin, the Imperial Court, the Strangers 
Hotel, the Palatine Court, and the Grand Hotel 
opposite to the bath. The best coffee-houses are 
the Italian in Cologne-street, and the Old and 
New Redoubte on the Compthausbad. 

The most frequented walks are the garden of 
Getschembourg, the park of Drimsbors, the pro- 
menade of Mount-Louis, and near the gate of 
St. Adalbert. 

Aix-la-Chapelle lays claim to some peculiar 
immunities and privileges. The extent of its 
jurisdiction is therefore very carefully marked ; 
and a little circle not extending a mile from the 
walls, and bounded by a simple quickset hedge, 
is ludicrously called the kingdom of Aix-la- 
Chapelle. 

Diligences set out for Cologne every day at five 
o'clock in the morning, and for Liege at seven 
o'clock. Coaches go to Maestricht three times 
every week. 

On the traveller's return to the Meuse he 
passes through the most fruitful part of the Duchy 
of Limburg, well known for the fertility of its soil, 
the excellence of its manufactures, and its immense 
population. The rich pasturage maintains a multi- 
tude of cattle, which afford a butter peculiarly 
delicate ; and a cheese, that to vulgar senses 
would be said to have a rank taste, and an insuf- 
ferably stinking smell, but which is in great re- 
quest among the epicures of the neighbouring 
countries, and called the Herve cheese, 
z 



£54 



BORCETTE. 



Limburg contains some rich and almost inex- 
haustible mines of calamine and zinc. It is like- 
wise celebrated for verv large manufactories of 
the finest cloth, although the wool of the country 
is by no means excellent. The principal part of 
what is consumed in the cloth manufactories is 
imported from Spain. 

When the traveller leaves Aix-la-Chapelle, 
Borcette is on the left. This town is romantically 
situated amidst numerous little eminences, beauti- 
fully clothed with wood and pasture. The vapours, 
which burst from the ground in many places, an- 
nounce the proximity of sulphureous springs ; and 
a rivulet of hot water runs close to the town. 
All the baths of Aix, except the Campus-bath, 
are supplied from Borcette. 

The Abbey of Borcette is a stately and venerable 
structure ; and the inn in the old castle will afford 
no despicable accommodation to the traveller. 

The spirit of gaming once prevailed at Aix to a 
lamentable extent. It was become almost uni- 
versal. The morals of the people were rapidly 
deteriorating, and crimes and wretchedness daily 
multiplied. The magistrates were seriously alarm- 
ed, and forbad all games of hazard within the 
city, under very severe penalties. 

Many of the visitors of Aix, incurably attached 
to this destructive vice, were offended at the inter- 
ference of the civil power, and retired to Borcette. 
The comparative cheapness of provisions at this 
little town induced others to follow their example, 
and Borcette now contains at all times a considera- 
ble number of strangers. 



EU PEN. 



£55 



The magistrates of Aix soon deemed it expe- 
dient to permit the different games of hazard to be 
again played in their city under certain restrictions ; 
and during the watering season, several gambling- 
houses are open, which pay a heavy sum to the 
Government for their license. The most frequented 
of these are the New Redoubte on the Compt- 
hausbacl, and a house called Kelschenbourg near 
the gate of St. Adalbert. Here, as at other places 
of the same dangerous description in other coun- 
tries, the banker is compelled to cover the stake of 
every player ; but that stake must not be less than 
a crown until ten o'clock at night, when so little 
as a half-crown may be staked until midnight. At 
that hour the tables are ordered to be broken up. 

In its cloth and needle manufactories Borcette 
rivals Aix, and these articles may be purchased 
here at a cheaper rate than at Aix. The cloths 
exported to the Levant are uncommonly fine and 
beautiful. 

The traveller now passes a wood when Moresnet 
is on his right, and Hergenraet on the left. Then 
crossing a river and a hill, and leaving Montzon 
on his right, and Lontzen on his left, he arrives 
at Henri-Chapelle. Soon afterwards he passes 
Clermont on the right, and Limburg and Bilstain 
on the left ; then Thimister on the right, and 
Cleneux on the left, and crossing a hill arrives at 
Herve. 

On the left of the road from Aix to Limburg is 
Eupen, containing 10,000 inhabitants, supported 
by the manufacture and dyeing of woollen-cloths. 
Great quantities of blue cloth and kerseymere are 
z 2 



256 LIMBURG. HERVE, &C. 



exported to the Levant, and to every part of 
Europe. 

Li m burg is on a mountain near the liter Wese, 
twenty miles from Liege. Although once the 
capital of the duchy it is now little more than a 
heap of ruins. It has a manufactory of woollen 
cloths, and is famous for its excellent cheese. 
Near it are extensive quarries of marble, of which 
the castle of Limburg is built; and good mines of 
calamine and coal. The church dedicated to 
St. George is much admired. 

The church of St. John the Baptist at Herve 
is very beatitiful. Its manufactories of cloth and 
cheese have already been mentioned. 

Neau is six miles from Limburg, and celebrated 
for its manufactories of scarlet and blue cloth. 
The mountains in the neighbourhood peculiarly 
abound with game ; but they are frequently covered 
with snow even in the summer, and are absolutely 
impassable in winter. 

Four miles s. w. of Limburg is Verviers. 
Although it claims no higher appellation than a 
village, it contains, with some neighbouring ham- 
lets, no less than 1 6,000 inhabitants. The finest 
cloth which the Netherlands produce is manu- 
factured here. Some of the factories, particularly 
that of Mr. Hod son, are worthy the inspection of 
the traveller. 

The water of the Vesder is said to be most ex- 
cellent for dyeing the finer woollen cloths and ker- 
sey meres. Verviers is rapidly increasing in po 
pulation and wealth, and promises to rival even 
the capital of Limburg. 



LIEGE* 



257 



On leaving Herve, Vaux is soon passed on the 
left, then a river, beyond which is Josse on the 
right. The road now lies through Semagne, and 
leaving St. Adelin on the left, and crossing a hill, 
and afterwards a river, we arrive at Aigneaux. 
Then leaving Magnee on the left, and Fleron on 
the right, and passing near Romze, we reach 
Beyne. Hence ascending a hill, leaving Chence 
and Grivegne on the left, and Jupille on the right, 
we pass through Robermont, and crossing the 
Meuse arrive at Liege. 

Liege was formerly the capital of the Bishopric 
of Liege, and lately of the department of Ourthe, 
and is situated at the junction of the Meuse with 
the Ourte. It contains about 45,000 inhabitants. 

Liege was built by Embiorix, a leader of one of 
the tribes of the Gauls, and derives its name from 
the Roman legion, commanded by Sabinus and 
Cotta, which was here surprised and totally de- 
stroyed. 

The river passes through the town in numerous 
branches, forming many islands bordered by 
beautiful quays, particularly on the southern bank, 
and communicating by bridges of various construc- 
tion, the most considerable of which is the " Bridge 
X>{ Arches," so called from the loftiness of its 
centre arches. The mountains are so close to the 
river, that the town is extremely narrow. The 
houses are very lofty, and give a gloomy appear- 
ance to the contracted and ill-paved streets. The 
suburbs at each extremity are of considerable ex- 
tent, and, seeming to be a continuation of the city, 
give it the appearance of greater magnitude than i 
z 3 



258 



LIEGE. 



really possesses. The unusual number of churches 
adds likewise to the illusion. 

The Palace of the Prince-Bishop is of the Ionic 
order, and built in the form of a square ; but the 
columns of the inner court displease the eye on 
account of their great diameter, compared with 
their height. 

The Town-house is a respectable edifice, and 
the citadel, erected on an eminence, commands a 
noble view of the town, and the river meandering 
in various directions, now bursting full on the 
sight, and again concealed by the towering and 
romantic cliffs through which it urges its way. 

The church of St. Paul is deservedly celebrated 
for the grandeur of its exterior, and for the taste 
with which the rich ornaments_of the interior are 
arranged. The majestic cathedral of St. Lambert, 
once the ornament and pride of the city, was com- 
pletely destroyed during the reign of revolutionary 
frenzy. Scarcely a vestige of it remains. The 
fountains, particularly two in the great square, 
one ornamented with statues of the Graces, and 
the other with that of the Virgin, deserve attention. 

In St. William's convent, without the city, is the 
tomb of the famous traveller Sir John Mandeville. 

By an edict, dated Feb. 19, 1817, a university 
Is to be established at Liege, under royal auspices. 

The manufactures are nails, screws, serge, and 
woollen-cloths. The cloths of Liege are said by 
the natives to be superior to any even of British 
manufacture. It should be added that they are 
likewise dearer than the English cloths. The 
quantity of fire-arms made here is very great, and 



LIEGE. — DAELHEM. — HERISTAL. 259 

the cotton, paper, and glue manufactories are much 
celebrated. The neighbouring country abounds 
with coal-mines, and much marble, granite, slate, 
and lime are dug from the quarries. Liege is 
surrounded by vineyards, yet the wine is far from 
excellent, and the juice of the grape is principally 
employed in the preparation of verjuice. A con- 
siderable quantity of alum, sulphate of magnesia, 
and muriate of lime are likewise made here. A 
fair which lasts eight days, commences Novem- 
ber the 2d. 

The Blaek Eagle, the Canal of Louvain, the 
French and English Hotels, the Golden Lion, and 
the Imperial Crown are the best inns. 

The lower classes of the inhabitants of Liege 
speak a provincial dialect, which neither the 
Fleming, Hollander, nor Frenchman can under- 
stand. It is the Walloon, or, as the natives call it, 
Koeter-Walsch. 

A coach goes to Brussels and Cologne every 
day. 

The town of Daeliiem is beautifully situated, 
midway between Maestricht and Liege. 

Three miles n. of Liege is Heristal, on the 
Meuse, with a strong castle. Abundance of straw 
hats, and toys of various descriptions are manu- 
factured here. 



260 



SECT. XXI. Route from Liege to Mons. 

Posts. Miles. 



Liege to Choquier 2 .... 11 

Extra charge for :3d horse. 

Choquier to Huy 2| .... 12| 

Extra charge for 3d horse. 

Huy to Selaycn 2 .... 1 1 

Selayen to Namur .... pi 

Namur to Sombref 2| .... 13 J 

Sombref to Courcelles 2J .... 15£ 

Extra charge for 3d horse. 

Courcelles to Haine St. Pierre ... . 2 .... 11 

Extra charge for 3d horse. 

Haine St. Pierre to Mons 2\ .... 13 J 




A majestic avenue of large trees conducts from 
Liege on the road to Huy. The most beautiful 
scenery occurs on the river, and if the traveller 
can spare time to row against a rapid stream, I 
certainly would recommend him to take a boat 
from Liege to Namur. I shall however describe 
the scenery which occurs by land, as carriages 
can always proceed on the post road, and here, 
more than in the route from Maestricht to Rure- 
monde, the road closely skirts the river, and 
commands the greater part of its interesting 
scenery. 

The vineyards, which in the neighbourhood of 



FROM LIEGE TO MONS. 26l 

Liege clothe the summit of every hill, and the 
hop-gardens that occupy the lower grounds, 
have a pleasing effect. The river is closely shut 
in by rocks, not so elevated as those on the Rhine, 
or on the river Avon at Clifton, but sufficiently 
lofty often to give the scenery a wild and romantic 
appearance. In many parts where the hills 
gently slope down to the brink of the river, and 
are covered with wood or pleasure-grounds, the 
tourist is reminded of the pleasing views on the 
Wye. Near Liege every practicable spot is occu- 
pied by a country-seat with extensive gardens, in 
which the owner has generally had the good 
sense to leave the natural beauties of the situation 
untouched. One lofty isolated rock, 150 feet 
high, is whimsically selected for the site of a 
pretty chateau, and the only accessible path to 
it is dug with much labour out of the face of the 
cliff. 

As the traveller proceeds from Liege, Grace is 
on his left, he then passes near Tileur, and after 
leaving Hologne on his right, and Serning on his 
left, and crossing a small river, he reaches Fla- 
malle ; after which, leaving Val-Saint-Lambert 
on the left, he arrives at the Post-house at Cho- 
quier. 

Proceeding from Choquier, and leaving Namel 
on his left, he reaches Engis, and afterwards pass- 
ing St. Severin and Hermal on his left, visits 
Flaune and Aunay. On the other side of the 
river are Neuville and Tuhange, passing them and 
leaving Val on the right, he crosses the Meuse to 
Huy. 



£62 



HUY. 



Huy is romantically situated and enclosed by 
lofty mountains. It is a very ancient town and 
mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus. It con- 
tains two springs of mineral water much resorted 
to. It has many paper-mills and iron foundries. 

Toys of all kinds, straw-hats, tin and iron uten- 
sils, excellent and cheap, are manufactured here. 
Considerable quantities of flag-stones, whetstones, 
and limestones, are dug near Huy. 

The population scarcely amounts to 5,000 souls, 
yet Huy contains no less than sixteen churches 
and eighteen convents. In no other town of the 
Netherlands are the clergy so numerous. 

The ancient castle, so celebrated in former 
times, now presents a mere heap of ruins. 

The principal inn is the hotel of Heaume. 

From this place to Namur the scenery assumes a 
grander and more romantic character ; but the 
road does not lie so close to the river, and the tra- 
veller should sail up the stream to enjoy the pros- 
pect in full perfection. In my description of the 
Meuse (page 79)> I have already described this 
interesting route. In one or two places the post- road 
skirts the feet of some immense rocks on the very 
brink of the river, and an abrupt acclivity rises 
200 feet from the water ; in other places the road 
is even cut through the base of the rock, which 
forms a vast and tremendous arch over the head of 
the traveller. 

Immediately after leaving Huy by the post road, 
is a steep hill, on the other side of which is the 
village of Ahin. Here the traveller crosses a 
river, and leaving Basse-Oha on his right, arrives 



NAMUH, 



263 



at Rein. Then he skirts a wood on his left, leaves 
Reppe on his right, crosses a river, ascends a hill, 
and passing Seilles on his right, Ardenne on his 
left, and afterwards Wesin on his right, arrives 
at the post-house of Selayen. Proceeding thence, 
he passes by Flion, and soon afterwards a little 
hill, crosses a river, leaves Naumeche on the 
other side of the Meuse, and arrives at Maizeret. 
Then passing Loyers on his left, skirting a wood, 
going through Leves, passing Erpent on his left, 
and crossing a hill, he enters Namur, after tra- 
versing a superb avenue of trees, and going over a 
beautiful bridge of nine arches, and built of blue 
stone in the same style of architecture with the old 
bridges of Paris. 

Namur is situated in a valley between two 
lofty mountains, at' the conflux of the Sambre and 
the Meuse. These mountains afford some romantic 
and delightful views of both rivers and the sur- 
rounding country. 

The castle was on the summit of one of these 
craggy rocks, and nearly impregnable. Many of 
the fortifications were hewn out of the solid rock. 
The emperor Joseph, suspicious of the loyalty of 
the Flemings, destroyed many of the bastions, and 
the others were demolished by the French. 

The cathedral is a beautiful specimen of modern 
architecture, of the Corinthian order. The portico 
is supported by wenty-five columns, with richly 
ornamented chapiters. 

The Jesuits church is a yet finer specimen of 
ancient architecture. The nave is sustained by 
twelve red marble columns of the Ionic order, and 



264 



NAMUH. 



every part of the edifice presents a profusion of 
well-executed and becoming ornament. 

The inhabitants are estimated at 20,000, whose 
principal commerce is in fire-arms, cutlery, iron, 
and lead. Many iron mines in the neighbourhood 
employ a great part of the population. The rivers 
abound with carp, trout, salmon, and a species of 
craw-fish, so delicious that they are sent to the 
most distant provinces. The streets of Namur are 
wide and clean. The houses are built of a blue 
stone with red and black veins, and present a 
whimsical but not unpleasing appearance. The 
quarries in the neighbourhood are inexhaustible, 
and rival the finest marble. The black marble dug 
here is used by the Italian sculptors for their noblest 
productions. 

A singular custom used to exist at Namur, and 
is not yet quite discontinued. The young men of 
the old and new towns assembled, mounted 
on stilts, and forming themselves into battalions, 
each under the command of its captain, drew up 
in battle array, in the square of the town-house. 
At the sound of martial music, the partisans of the 
respective towns rushed on each other, and using 
their elbows and feet with incredible agility and 
violence, endeavoured to drive their opponents 
from the field of battle. The wives and mis- 
tresses of the contending parties were arranged on 
each side of the square, and entering fully into the 
spirit of the combat, animated the warriors to 
exert their utmost strength and skill. The battle 
sometimes raged during several hours, before either 
party wpuld yield the palm of victory. 



NAMUR. 



265 



Peter the Great was a delighted spectator of this 
strange conflict of giants. Marshal Saxe was fre- 
quently present at an exhibition which almost 
realized the furious and obstinate contest of dis- 
ciplined armies ; and it afforded so much pleasure 
to Duke Albert, that, on this account, he exempted 
the breweries of Nam ur from the paymentof excise. 

Namur is a town of the highest antiquity. 
Some historians, deeply read in the legends of 
ancient times, and giving full credence to all their 
wild and romantic tales, have traced it to Aganip- 
pus, the cotemporary of Solomon. Others, on 
better authority, have ascribed its origin to Sam- 
bron, prince of a tribe of the Germ ani, and from 
whom the river Sambre derived its name. 

Namur is celebrated for the long and bloody 
siege which it endured against King William in 
1690. It has often changed masters. On the 
death of Charles II. of Spain, it was seized by the 
French, and in 1713 was ceded to Austria. In 
1715 it was garrisoned by Dutch troops. In 1746 
it was taken by the French, but restored to the 
Dutch in 1748. In 1781 the Emperor Joseph 
expelled the Dutch garrison. In 1792 it was 
taken by the French; in 1793 retaken by the 
Austrians ; and in 1794 again captured by the 
French. 

The Flemish, the Holland, and the Arscamp 
are the chief hotels. 

A diligence goes from Namur to Luxemburg 
every Tuesday, and although the distance is 
scarcely 100 miles, the roads are so execrable, 

2 A 



266 



GEMBLOU-X. — DIN ANT. 



that the journey sometimes occupies three days. 
The beauty of the country, however, makes ample 
amends for the badness of the roads. 

Twelve miles n.w. of Namur is Gembloux. 
It contains a venerable abbey dedicated to St. Be- 
"nedict. Four miles from Gembloux towards 
Nivelle is the beautiful abbey of St. Villers, most 
romantically situated. 

If the traveller continues to ascend the Meuse 
he will arrive at Dinant, eighteen miles s. of 
Namur. The route either by land or water pre- 
sents a variety of pleasing scenes. Descending 
the hill, and entering the forest, the traveller visits 
Wepion and Folz, after which the road, passing 
between the Meuse and the forest of Basse-Mar- 
lange, conducts him to Profondeville. Then leav- 
ing on his right the wood of Hul, separated from 
that of Marliere by the river Burnot, he arrives at 
Ruillon. Leaving Annevoye on his right, passing 
a hill, and skirting another wood, he reaches 
Hun. Afterwards leaving Henenmont on his 
right he comes to Anhee ; then passing on his 
right the wood of the Abbey of Moulin, and the 
hamlet of Senenne, the traveller finds himself be- 
tween the Meuse and a considerable hill : after- 
wards leaving Rostenne and Crevecoeur on his 
right, he passes through Bouorgnen, and soon 
arrives at Dinant, containing 3,000 inhabitants, 
and close to the new frontiers. The chief trade is 
leather and tin ware ; and in the neighbourhood 
are quarries of marble, and rich mines of tin. 
The town-hall was formerly the palace of the 



HERBEMONT. 



Prince of Liege. Between Dinant and Ciney is 
Herbemont, a town with a strong castle on a 
mountain. 

We now leave' the banks of the Meuse, and take 
an easterly direction towards Mons. As the tra- 
veller departs from Namur, he should halt on 
the hill which overhangs the city. Although 
neither the Sambre nor the Meuse are visible 
from this spot, yet the bird's-eye view of the town 
cannot fail to please. The immense rock on 
which the castle is built, with the little gardens 
planted on its declivity, and the houses that are 
placed on its very summit, is an object truly pic- 
turesque. The prospect from the castle is, if pos- 
sible, finer than this, for it embraces the Sambre 
and the Meuse, until the mountains at the extremi- 
ties of the valley conceal them from the view. 

On quitting Namur, with Saint Servais on the 
right, we cross a river, and pursuing the course 
of the Sambre, leave Flawinne on the left. We 
then cross a valley, pass near Temploux, and 
leaving Spy on the left, and Sauvages and Gel- 
zinneonthe right, arrive at Mazy. We now pass 
another river, and leave St. Martin-Balatre, on the 
left, and Botey on the right ; a hill succeeds, and 
passing by Tongrincs on the left, another hill 
and a river bring us to the post-house at Sombref. 

Leaving Sombref, the road follows for some 
distance the course of a river, after which we reach 
the village of Ligny. The road now consists of a 
continued succession of hills, valleys, and rivu- 
lets to Courcelles. About midway between Som~ 
2 A 2 



268 



FLEURDS. 



bref and Courcelles lie the plains of Fleit rus on 
the left, celebrated for the numerous battles which 
have been fought on them. At Ligny the Prus- 
sians suffered severely in the engagement of June 
l6th, which preceded the signal victory of Wa- 
terloo. 

The battle of Ligny was marked by the peculiar 
fury and deadly hatred with which the Prussians 
and French contended. No quarter was given or 
asked on either side. The loss of the Prussians # ex- 
ceeded 1 6,000 men, and they found it necessary 
to retreat to Wavre in the night. 

Bliicher had personally led on several charges 
of cavalry, in one of which he was exposed to 
the greatest danger. One charge had failed, and 
while the enemy was vigorously pursuing, a mus- 
ket-shot struck the Prince's horse. The animal, 
far from being stopped in his career, began to gal- 
lop more furiously till it dropped down dead. 
Bliicher, stunned by the violent fall, lay entangled 
under the horse. The enemy's cuirassiers ad^ 
vanced. The last Prussian horseman had already 
passed by, and an adjutant alone remained with 
him, who had just alighted to share his fate. For- 
tunately the French cavalry rushed on without per- 
ceiving him ; and the next moment a second charge 
of the Prussians having repelled them, they again 
passed hjm with the same precipitation, and 
without observing him. The Field-Marshal was 
then, with great difficulty, disengaged from under 
the dead animal, and mounted on a dragoon 
torse. 



CHARLEROY FONTAINE l'eVEQUE. 269 

Numerous beautiful crystals of white quartz are 
found near Fleurus, and the agriculture of these 
plains is deservingly celebrated. 

The country has here completely changed its 
character. We see no more the abrupt rocks, and 
the short but steep hills of Maestricht and Liege. 
The hills are diminished to gentle undulations. 
The ascent is easy and prolonged, and from the 
summit an immense expanse of highly-cultivated 
land presents itself td the view. The prospect is 
no longer terminated by some lofty hill, but by 
tufts of trees, and little woods interspersed with 
cottages and farm-houses. The country-seats 
which are observed on every side have usually a 
Gothic architecture, but their appearance is pleas- 
ing, and betokens the competence of the pro- 
prietors. 

Eight miles s.w. of Fleurus is Charleroy, so 
called by the Marquis Castel-Rodrigo, in compli- 
ment to Charles II. of Spain. It is celebrated for 
its fortifications, and the many sieges which it has 
endured. It supplies the whole of Belgium with 
nails, and has some valuable coal-mines. The 
number of inhabitants is 4,000. A fair of ten 
days begins on the 5th of August for cattle and 
every kind of merchandise. 

Ten miles w. of Charleroy is Fontaine 
i/Eveque. It is surrounded by woods, and the 
most execrable roads render the approach to it dif- 
ficult and painful ; but the beauty of the prospect 
abundantly compensates for the toil of the jour- 
ney. The wild and mountainous scenery of this 
neighbourhood forms a striking contrast with the 
2 A 3 



270 FONTAINE L'EVEQUE. 

usual features of a Belgian landscape. Near this 
place are the ruins of the celebrated abbey of 
Alne, well worthy the traveller's attention. By the 
extent of ground which these ruins occupy, the 
tourist will be enabled to form some idea of the 
ancient magnificence of the edifice. Its yearly 
revenue was more than 1,300,000 crowns, and the 
very cloisters contained 300 columns of the finest 
marble. The only remaining habitable part of 
the structure is converted into a farm-house. 

There is a common proverb in this country : 
" Faute d'un point, Martin perdit son dne"— 
" Owing to a point, Martin lost his ass speaking 
of the necessity of an attention to little things or 
the important consequences which often flow from 
trifling causes. 

It is thus explained. A priest called Martin was 
Abbot of Alne. He wrote over the outer gate, 

Porta patens esto nulli 9 claudatur honest o ; i. e. 
Let this gate be opened to no one, and especially 
let it be shut against every honest man. 

This gave offence to the Seigneur to whom the 
abbey belonged, and he immediately deprived him 
of his benefice. Had he shifted the comma one 
word forwarder, the meaning would have been 
honourable to the abbey. 

Porta patens esto, nulli claudatur honesto. Let 
this hospitable gate be always open, let it be shut 
against no deserving object. 

The village of Alne is considerable and contains 
more than 1,500 inhabitants. 

We return to Courcelles. The traveller crosses 
a valley, and passes near Trazegnies, after which 



25INCH. — MONS. 



crossing a river and a hill, leaving Chapelle-Her- 
laymont on his right, traversing the extremity of a 
wood, and crossing another river, he arrives at 
the post-house of Haine St. Pierre. 

Proceeding from this place we pass near Haine- 
Saint-Paul, and leaving Mont-Sainte-Aldergonde 
and Leval on the left, and Saint-Waast and Trie- 
viere on the right, and afterwards Ressay on the left, 
we reach Peronne ; crossing a river and a hill, 
with Binch and Wandre on the left. 

Binch is a pleasant little town in which Mary 
Queen of Hungary and sister to Charles V. erected 
a magnificent castle while she was regent of the 
Netherlands. It was destroyed by Henry II. 
about the middle of the 15th century, but rebuilt 
by Albert and Isabella. 

Crossing another river and leaving Bray on the 
right, and Estines-au-Val on the left, we arrive 
at Villers-Saint-Ghislain, Then ascending a hill, 
and leaving Spiennes on the left, and Bonsoit-sur- 
Haine on the right, touching on Saint-Symphorien, 
crossing a valley, and passing Meswin and Hyon 
on the left, we come to the foot of the hill on 
which Mons is situated. 

Mons is built on a hill, the foot of which is 
watered by the river Trouille. Its ancient name was 
Hannonia, given to it by Csesar its illustrious founder, 
and probably derived from the junction of the 
rivers Trouille and Haine at this spoti It was 
formerly the capital of Austrian Hainault, and 
lately of the department of Gemappe, and is at 
present the seat of the provincial government. 
The principal buildings are the castle, the Town- 



272 GEMAPPE. 

hall, and the great church, which is said to occupy 
the site of a castle built by Julius Caesar. The 
altar is a pleasing piece of sculpture, and is usually 
surrounded with laurels arranged with much taste. 
Some beautiful Madonas will attract the attention 
of the traveller. Mons contains a foundling hos- 
pital, on the plan on which policy and humanity 
dictate that such an institution should ever be esta- 
blished. The infant is readily received without 
the parent being exposed. The chief manufactures 
are woollen stuffs, linen, lace, and earthenware ; 
and it contains 25,000 inhabitants. It communi- 
cates with Paris by the canal of St. Quentin. The 
surrounding country abounds with coal-mines ; and 
the smoke from the steam-engines often covers the 
city with an impenetrable cloud. 

A fair of three days begins May l6th, and 
another of 17 days November 1 7th, for books and 
ever}' kind of merchandise. 

Three miles from Mons is Gemappe, celebrated 
for the victory which the French obtained over 
the Austrians in 1792. Three coal-pits were 
filled with the dead bodies of men and horses. 



SECT. XXII. Route from Liege to Luxemburg. 

The Duchy of Luxemburg has yet been un- 
visited, and must be described before we direct our 
course to the western provinces of Belgium. The 
general appearance of the country through the 



LUXEMBURG. 



273 



greater part of Luxemburg is different from 
any which the Netherlands haye yet exhibited. 
Between Maestricht and Namur we were presented 
with some wild and romantic river scenery, but every 
thing that was interesting was confined to the 
immediate neighbourhood of the Meuse. Nearly 
the whole of Luxemburg offers a picture of 
savage grandeur ; not indeed on the immense scale 
of the mountains of Switzerland, but sufficiently 
majestic generally to please and sometimes asto- 
nish. The naturalist, the geologist, and the painter, 
will find an ample fund of amusement and im- 
provement. 

The population is thin, and agriculture much 
neglected. The industry of the inhabitants is chiefly 
directed to exploring their inexhaustible mines, 
and converting to charcoal the impenetrable 
forests which give to their country a character so 
wild. One peculiarity of the country is the almost 
total want of navigable rivers and canals. This 
will appear most extraordinary to him who in his 
progress through the other provinces has met with 
them at almost every mile, and, added to the na- 
tural barrenness of the soil, will sufficiently ac- 
count for the comparative poverty which here 
prevails. The distance of Luxemburg from the 
sea, and the badness of the roads likewise con- 
tribute to retard its improvement. Instead of the 
noble paved roads which are found in the greater 
part of Belgium, those of Luxemburg are ge- 
nerally formed of loose stones, which the inha- 
bitants will not take the trouble to break when 



£74 



LUXEMBURG. 



they are first laid on, and which the traffic is too 
small ever to grind down. 

The country that borders on the Moselle pro- 
daces excellent grapes. The sheep, which are fed 
on the wild aromatic herbs that abound in every 
mountainous region, are small, but celebrated 
for the sweetness of their flesh. The horned cattle 
are likewise small, but afford delicious food. The 
horses are of diminutive size, but beautifully 
formed, hardy and gentle. The woods and moun- 
tains abound with game, and the rivers with trout 
and eels. The muscles of the Semoy are said to yield 
abundance of pearls, which, though slightly tinged 
with yellow, are much esteemed. 

There are no established posts [between Liege 
and Luxemburg, but the traveller will easily find 
different conveyances, if he has time and inclina- 
tion to visit this romantic region. 

Miles. 



Liege to Theux ....... v IS 

Theux to Spa 10 

Spa to Stavelot 14 

Sta\elot to Deifielt . . . . 20 

Deiffelt to Diekirch 24 

Diekirch to Luxemburg ........ 20 



106 

In this excursion I shall only mention a few of 
the places through which the road passes : the 
return by the southern and better cultivated dis- 
tricts will require a more particular description. 



THEUX SPA. 



£75 



The villages are so thinly scattered in Luxem- 
burg, that the traveller, if he be not careful, will 
often stay some hours longer for his dinner than he 
likes, and will have some difficulty in finding a 
place at which he may sleep. The towns of Lux- 
emburg are much inferior to most of the Belgic 
villages : indeed the capital is almost the only 
place which deserves the name of a town. 

The road from Liege to Theux passes through 
Louveigne. Theux was the theatre of a bloody en- 
gagement between the French and Austrians in 
1794, in which the latter were beaten. 

Theux produces some of the most beautiful 
black marble in Europe. It is much used for 
chimney-pieces, monuments, tables, and a variety 
of ornaments. 

A great part of the road from Theux to Spa 
lies through a pleasing valley and by the side of a 
little river. The prospects, sometimes beautifully 
luxuriant, at other times picturesque and romantic, 
and occasionally assuming a wild and even sublime 
character, cannot fail to please by their endless 
variety. 

Spa is situated in a valley surrounded by moun- 
tains. It contains about 300 houses built in the 
form of a crescent, and is celebrated for its mineral 
waters, to which great numbers resort from every 
part of Europe. Amidst the bloodiest wars this 
place has been respected, and the subjects of every 
belligerent state live here in perfect union. Spa 
has lost much of its original splendour. A dread- 
ful fire in 1808 consumed nearly 200 houses. 
Half of the principal street, and the whole of the 



276 



SPA. 



street near the river were destroyed. The com- 
pany, although not so numerous as formerly, is yet 
fashionable, and usually frequent the Spa, in the 
months of June, July, and August. They gene- 
rally assemble in the morning near the Pouhon 
spring in the middle of the town. This is supposed 
to be more strongly impregnated with carbonic 
acid gas, than any of the other waters. Some 
bathe here. Others, after drinking at this spring, 
proceed on horseback or in carriages to the Sau- 
veniere, the Geronstere, or the Tonnelet springs. 

The Sauveniere is rather more than a mile on 
the east of Spa, on the side of a lofty hill. This 
water is supposed to be slightly diuretic, as is that of 
a fountain called Grossbeck at a little distance 
from the Sauveniere. 

The Geronstere is two miles on the south of Spa, 
on a hill in the midst of a wild and uncultivated 
forest. 

. The Tonnelet is on an eminence called Fres- 
neuse. The water bursts from the spring with 
great force, resembling a caldron violently boiling. 
It is peculiarly brisk and sparkling, and warm and 
cold baths are built here for the accommodation of 
the visitors. 

After returning from the springs, they breakfast 
at their lodgings, or at the Vauxhall, a pleasant 
garden, and much frequented. At eleven the fashion- 
able and ruinous games of Pharo and Loo begin, 
and continue with unabated activity until 
dinner. Too many visitors have had mournful 
experience, that the unfair arts of gambling are 
as much practised amidst the mountains of Spa ? 



SPA. 



277 



as in the metropolis of any of the European 
kingdoms. 

A few, who have a prudent regard for their 
morals and their health, employ the morning in 
visiting the noble cascade of Stabloo, the mineral 
spring and romantic prospect of Chaufontaine, the 
marble quarries of Theux, or the sublime scenery 
of Montjou, or StefFen. 

After dinner, the visitors of the Spa amuse 
thfemselves with exploring the wildly beautiful 
scenery of the neighbouring mountains, or again 
throng around the fatal gaming-table, or assist at 
the concert, or amuse themselves at the theatre, 
or the ball. In July, balls are given twice every 
week at the assembly-room or Redoubte, and 
once every week at the Vauxhall ; but in the suc- 
ceeding month they are given twice in the week at 
each place. 

The waters of Spa are highly impregnated with 
carbonic acid gas, and contain much carbonate of 
irqn. In the quantity of the latter, they are equal- 
led by the Pyrmont waters, and in the former the}^ 
are excelled both by the Pyrmont and the Seltzer; 
they are, however, deservedly esteemed. The 
grateful and moderate stimulus of the carbonic acid 
gas is useful in innumerable chronic diseases, con- 
nected with an impaired state of the digestive 
organs. They are particularly beneficial in sim- 
ple indigestion, in hypochondriasis, and in gout. 

One of the most beautiful walks in Spa is the 
garden of the Capuchins. The number of inha- 
bitants is about 2,000, whose principal employ- 
ment is the manufactory of wooden toys, particu- 
2 b 



£78 STAVELOT. SALM. LUXEMBURG. 



larly ladies' work-boxes from the beech-wood, 
which grows so abundantly in the neighbouring 
mountains. These are eagerly purchased by the 
visitors, and known in every part of Europe. 

A cabinet of natural history has been formed 
by Mr. Wolff, by whom the scientific traveller may 
be supplied with specimens of all the numerous 
and beautiful minerals and fossils which the neigh- 
bourhood produces. 

The principal inns are the Flanders and York 
Hotels. 

Stavelot, containing 3,000 inhabitants is 
pleasantly situated on the Warge. The parochial 
church and the abbey are magnificent structures. 
The principal trade is in stuffs and leather. The 
water of the Warge is commonly supposed to de- 
rive some chemical property from the neighbouring 
fens and marshes, which renders the leather imper- 
vious to wet. 

The town contains a mineral spring, which is 
said to be not inferior to those at Spa. 

Between Stavelot and Deiffelt the road passes 
through Comanster, and beyond Deiffelt we find 
Walferdange, Fischback, Marnach, Hosingen, 
Hoscher, Michelau, and Tateler-Birden. Between 
Diekirch and Luxemburg are Schyren, Rollinghen, 
Lintgen, Helmdingen, Dumeldange, and Eich. 

Midway between Stavelot and Deiffelt, and three 
miles to the west of the road, is Salm, with an 
ancient castle on a mountain. 

Luxemburg, twenty-two miles w.s.w. of 
Treves, was formerly the capital of the Duchy of 
Luxemburg, and lately of the department of Forets* 



GREVENM ACHERENj &C. 279 

It was called by the Romans Augusta Romanorum ; 
but one of the chiefs of the native tribes, having 
wrested it from the power of the invaders, called 
it Lucis-burgum, or the City of the Sun, to whom 
he dedicated it. 

Luxemburg is singularly and romantically situ- 
ated between and on two abrupt rocks that over- 
hang the little river Else, one of them is abso- 
lutely perpendicular towards the river, and the 
traveller can scarcely look down it without dizzi- 
ness. These rocks form the glacis of the place, 
and render it one of the strongest fortifications in 
Europe* It contains 10,000 inhabitants. Near 
Luxemburg are the ruins of the magnificent palace 
of Ernest, Count of Mansfeld. 

The principal commerce is in cloth, linen, to- 
bacco, china ? paper, and hides. Fairs are held 
on the first Wednesday in January, Ash- Wednes- 
day, the Wednesday in the fourth, week of April, 
the Wednesday after St. John the Baptist, August 
24th, and the Wednesday in the fourth week in 
October, for horses, cattle, and every kind of 
merchandise. 

Fifteen miles n.e. of Luxemburg is Greven- 
m ache ren, celebrated for making the best Mo- 
selle wine. 

Ten miles E. of Diekirch is Echternach, a 
town most romantically surrounded with moun- 
tains. 

Twelve miles n. of Diekirch is Vianen, situ- 
ated among rocks and mountains. It has a strong 
castle upon an almost inaccessible rock. The 
2 b 2 



280 ROUTE FROM LUXEMBURG 



traffic is in cloth and leather. The wine of Vianen 
is equal to that of the Moselle. 



SECT. XXIII. Route from Luxemburg to Namur. 

Posts. Miles. 



Luxemburg to Steinfort 2 ....11 

Steinfort to Attert 2 .... 11 

Attert to Malmaison 2| .... 12| 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse 

Malmaison to Flamisoul 2| .... 12| 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Flamisoul to Marche ,\ 3f .... 20 1 

Extra charge for the 3d and 4th 
horse. 

Marche to Emptine 2| .... 13 J 

Extra charge for the 3d horse. 

Emptine to Namur \ 3 .... l6J 

Extra charge for the 3d horse 

during the winter. - 



171 98 



On quitting Luxemburg, the traveller crosses a 
hill and valley, then leaving Merl on his left, and 
the wood of Strassen on his right, passing close by 
Strassen, then leaving Bertrange on the left, 
crossing a river, and having Mamer on the left, 
Olm on the right, and Holtzem on the left, and, 



TO NE UF CHATEAU. 



281 



on the other side a hill, Goetzengen and Koerich 
on the right, and Hagen on the left, he arrives at 
Steinfort. < 

Proceeding from Steinfort, he passes by the edge 
of a wood, leaves Clairfontaine on his right, and 
Barnich, Nid, Etter, and Weyler, on his left, then 
crossing a valley, and having Waltzingen on his 
right, he reaches Arlon, a neat little town. Then 
having Altenhofen on his left, and Frassem and 
Bonnert on his right, and soon after Lischer and 
Melzert on his left, and Tontlingen on his right ; 
then crossing a wood with Schodeck on his left, 
and Nat am on his right, he arrives at Attert, on 
the other side a river. 

Now leaving Parret on his right, crossing a wood, 
leaving Holt and Perl on his right, skirting another 
wood, and leaving Wolfmgen on the right, he 
comes to Martelange. Then leaving Redel, Wi- 
sembach, and Bodange on the left, Wanach on 
the right, traversing a wood, crossing a river, and 
passing Burnon on the left, he comes to Hollange 
and Malmaison. 

Fourteen miles s.w. is Neufchateau, de- 
serving notice only on account of the large mar- 
kets which are held there. 

Quitting Malmaison, Chaumont is on the left, 
and the road passes close by Grandru. Remi- 
champagne is on the left, Homprez, Salvacourt, 
and Assensis, on the right, and Sibert on tha left. 
Then crossing a river, the traveller skirts Ville- 
roux ; he leaves Chenegue on the left, and Senon- 
champs on the right, and crossing a hill and val- 
2 b 3 



282 BASTONGE. — HOUFFALIZE. 



ley with Mande-Saint-Etienne on the right, he 
reaches Flamisoul. 

Ten miles s.e. of Flamisoul is Bastoxgf, 
which being well built, and the most populous 
town in the neighbourhood, is frequently called 
Paris in the Ardennes. 

Houffalize, fifteen miles n.e., has a very 
ancient and magnificent chateau. 

The town of St. Hubert, twelve miles w., is 
pleasantly situated on an extensive lawn in the 
midst of a thick forest. The Abbey is an object 
of much veneration in the neighbouring country. 
The legend of it is yet related with much solemnity. 

Prince Hubert, like too many of the great ones 
of the earth, was more eager to enjoy those plea- 
sures which his elevated situation placed in his 
power, than to study and practise the ceremonies 
of the church. He carried his profaneness to so 
incredible a height as to take the diversion of 
hunting on that holy- day Good-Friday. Such 
impiety was -not suffered to pass without some 
visible token of the divine displeasure, and a stag 
with a crucifix between his horns suddenly ap- 
peared to him in the midst of the forest. 

The guilty conscience of the prince was imme- 
diately alarmed ; he retired in haste to his palace, 
and, unable to banish the awful vision from his 
mind, and justly regarding it as a warning from 
heaven, he abjured the pomps and vanities of the 
world, assumed the habit of a priest, founded the 
magnificent Abbey of St. Hubert, and passed the 
remainder of his days in striving to expiate the sins 



ROCHEFORT. 



283 



of his youth by a rigorous course of abstinence and 
penance. 

The power which so strangely interfered to 
check his impiety, likewise manifested its approba- 
tion of his devotion, by enabling him to perform 
the most surprising miracles ; and it is yet firmly 
believed, that if an incision be made in the fore- 
head, and the wound be covered with a shred of 
the mantle of this saint, the most confirmed 
lunatic will be immediately restored to his right 
mind. 

Crossing a river and leaving Flamierge on the 
left, passing through Fronte, leaving Salle on the 
right, traversing the wood of Herbeumont, passing 
through Roumont, then crossing the Ourte, leaving 
Fenneville on the left, and Ortenville farther off, 
Erneuville on the right, and afterwards Champion 
on the left, the traveller arrives at Journal. Then 
traversing a forest for three miles, crossing a valley, 
ascending a steep hill, leaving Bande on the left ; 
crossing a wood, leaving Roy on the right, and 
Charneux on the left; crossing a wood through 
which runs a river, leaving Petit-Champion on 
the right, and Holson and Waha on the left, he 
reaches Marche. 

The church of St. Remaele in March e-en- 
Famene is well built. It has several iron-forges 
and wire-manufactories, and contains 1,300 inha- 
bitants. 

Twelve miles s.w. of Marche is Rochefort, 
.called by the Romans Rupefortium. It derives 
its name from its situation among rocks. The 
castle is said to have been built by Julius Ca?sai\ 



284 



CINEY. 



It was suddenly attacked by the Austrians in 1792, 
and General La Fayette was taken prisoner. 

Proceeding onward, the traveller passes a hill 
and river, he then leaves Aye on the left, tra- 
verses a wood for two miles, and leaving Waillet 
on his right, arrives at Hogne. Then leaving 
Petit-Sensin on his left, he comes to Grand- 
Sensin; and crossing a river, skirting a wood, 
and passing a valley, he reaches Pessoulx. Then 
leaving Ciney on his left, and crossing a hill and 
valley, with Mohuville on his right, he arrives at 
Emptine. 

Five miles s. of Emptine is Ciney, which has 
been three times besieged and completely de- 
stroyed. 

Quitting Emptine, Emptinalle is on the left, and 
crossing a valley and a river we visit Nattoie ; 
then leaving Floree on the right, and crossing a 
hill and another river, the road passes through 
Assese. The traveller next has Corriere and 
Maillen on his left, he crosses a river and a wood, 
skirts Sart-Bernard, crosses another river and a 
hill, and has Wierde on his right, Dave on his 
left, and Andoy on his right. Then crossing a hill 
and valley, he has Erpent on his right, and Ge- 
ronsart and Velaines on his left, and after a rapid 
declivity and skirting the hamlet of Sambes, 
and passing the Meuse, he arrives at Namur, 
(page 263). 



$85 



SECT. XXIV. Route from Mons to Brussels, 

Posts. Miles. 

Mons to Soignies 2 11 

Soignies to La Genette. . 1| 8 J 

La Genette to Hal . , v. . 1 | 8 J 

Hal to Brussels 2 11 

I will now suppose the traveller continuing his- 
route, and returning to Brussels, in order to pro- 
ceed to Ostend. Another pleasing journey from 
Mons to Ostend shall be given afterwards. 

We leave Mons by the gate of Nimy, and passing 
along the fosse and through many delightful mea- 
dows, we have a curious vie w of the numerous 
and extensive bleaching- grounds. Then crossing 
the Hesne we arrive at Nimy. Passing on the left 
the roads to Ath and Enghein we turn to the right, 
and traverse Mesieres. Next occur the woods 
of Chapitre, Chene-Saint-Hubert, and Mons ; the 
road then passes by a sandy heath, a pond, a 
valley, a rivulet, and the watering-place of Ro~ 
quette, and reaches Cateau. Leaving Thiensies, 
Saint-Foeillien, and Roeulx to the right, skirting 
the wood of Haye-du-Comte, and having Masmy- 
Saint-Pierre, and Masmy-Saint-Jean on the left, 
crossing a valley, leaving Naast to the right, and 
going by the pond of Gedonsark, we arrive at 
Coulbray and Rottentoul, and after passing by 
several inns reach Soignies. 

Soignies is a very ancient place, and was* 
built by the Senones. 



£86 



BRAINE-LE-COMTE, &C. 



Leaving Soignies we traverse the -wood of 
Braine, skirt Leudon, cross a valley, and arrive at 
Bourbecq, and soon afterwards at Braine-le-Comte. 

Braine-le-Comte derives its name from the 
celebrated Brennus, in the time of Julius Cassar, 
who built a strong town here which remained until 
the year 1 677- 

Ten miles e. of Braine-le-Comte is Nivelle on 
the Thione. It was formerly a place of consider- 
able consequence. It has good manufactories of 
cambrick, lace, and stuffs. The " John of Ni- 
velle/' so much admired by the common people, 
is the colossal iron figure of a man, standing on 
the top of a tower near the clock, and who strikes 
the hours with a hammer. A fair of ten days 
begins September 29, for cattle and goods. Jourdan 
defeated the Allies here in 179^ 

Proceeding from Braine-le-Comte we pass the 
hamlet of Crocremont, and near Hennuieres, and 
having on the left the wood of Rebecque, we arrive 
at the post-house of La Genette. 

Ten miles w. n.w. of La Genette is Engheih'. 
The palace has been much admired. The prin- 
cipal manufactory is of linen. Three fairs of ten 
days each commence June 20th, August 20th, and 
October 3d, for cattle and merchandise. It con- 
tains 3,000 inhabitants. 

Skirting a little wood, we arrive at Bruyere, 
and Tubize at a short distance from La Genette; 
then passing through some meadows we cross the 
Senne. and skirting Herbach, follow for a little way 
the course of the river, and having passed through 
Beregal and Lembreeck wc reach Hal. 



HAL. 



287 



Hal was formerly much resorted to on account 
of a supposed miraculous image of the Virgin 
Mary. The chapel of Notre-Dame was filled with 
the offerings of the devotees. 

Quitting Hal, passing the barrier, and leaving 
Buyssinghem and Essingham-sur-Senne on the 
right, we arrive at Brucuin ; and leaving St. Peter's- 
Leeuw on the left, and Loth on the right, reach 
Vigeron. Then passing opposite to Begards, cross- 
ing some meadows and the river Zuene, we visit 
Vlest, and afterwards leaving Foret to the right, 
we traverse Elesmont, Vecywreyd, and Anderlech, 
the last of which is a village prettily situated by 
several rivulets and meadows. It produces much 
excellent butter, which is in great request in the 
neighbourhood of Brussels. Then going through the 
beautiful meadows of Brussels, passing along the 
bank of the Senne, and leaving Saint Gillis on the 
right, we enter Brussels by the gate of Anderlech. 
See page 225.) 



SECT. XXV. Route from Brussels to Ostend. 

Posts. Miles. 

Brussels to Assche 1£ 8| 

Assche to Alost 1J 8* 

Alost to Ghent Si 18 

Ghent to Ecloo 2| 13 J 

Ecloo to Bruges . 3 l6| 

Bruges to Ostend . .... 3j iflf 



15| 



84 



288 ALOST. — DEN DERM ON DE. 



From Brussels to Ghent the traveller will most 
conveniently proceed by the diligence, which goes 
three times every day. The way by the canal is 
extremely circuitous, and destitute of any very 
pleasing or important objects. The fare of the 
diligence does not exceed nine francs. 

On departing from Brussels the traveller passes 
a river and a hill, and leaving Meulebeeck on the 
right, and Berckem on the left, then Jette and 
Dilighem on the right, crossing a river, leaving 
Grand Beygardem on the left, and skirting the side 
of a hill, he arrives at Zellick. Then leaving 
Releghem on the right, Beckerzele on the left, and 
Cobbeghem and Bollebeke on the right, and wind- 
ins: between two hills, he reaches Assche. 

Proceeding from Assche he leaves Mollen on 
the right, with the ruins of its former magnificent 
abbey, and after passing a steep hill, Afflinghem 
is also on the right ; he then skirts a wood, crosses a 
river, leaves Erembetleghem and Nieuwekercken 
on the left, and passing the river Dender, arrives 
at Alost, midway between Brussels and Ghent. 

Alost derives its name from being in the eastern 
part of the ancient county of Flanders. Its prin- 
cipal commerce is in flax, linen, and hops. The 
church contains a valuable painting by Rubens, 
which was restored with the other plunder of the 
Netherlands after the capture of Paris. 

Ten miles n. of Alost is Dendermonde, a 
fortified town at the conflux of the Dender with, 
the Scheldt. It has sustained several sieges, one of 
which the inimitable Sterne has most wittily com- 
memorated. 



GHENT. 



£89 



Dendermonde contains 8,000 inhabitants ; it has 
a good flax and corn-market, and an excellent 
establishment for printing calico. 

Proceeding from Alost the traveller crosses a 
plain, then a hill, and afterwards a river; and 
leaving Erpe and Meire on his left, Lede on his 
right, and then Erondeghem and Otterem on hi* 
left, crossing another river, leaving Vlecken on the 
left, and Impe and Smetlende on the right, and 
traversing a steep hill, arrives at Oordeghem. 
Then leaving Bacveghen on his left, passing a 
river and a hill, leaving Westrem on the left, Mas- 
semein on the right, and Gysenzeele on the left, 
skirting a wood, passing near the Scheldt, leaving 
Gentrode on the left, crossing a river, then leaving 
Melle on the left, and Laerne and Heusden on 
the right, passing near Peters-Ledeberg, crossing 
a river, and leaving Gentbrugge on the right, he 
arrives at Ghent. 

Ghent is situated on the Scheldt at the influx 
of the Lys, Lieve, and Maese. Its foundation is 
attributed by many to Julius Caesar, who gave the 
inhabitants the name of Gorduini. The Vandals 
who succeeded the Nervii called it Vanda, whence 
arose the name of Gand. So early as the time of 
the English Alfred it was probably a place of 
importance, for ancient historians relate that the 
Danes, repulsed from the shores of Britain, landed 
in Flanders, attacked Ghent, and obtained con- 
siderable plunder. 

It formerly surpassed Paris in extent and popu- 
lation ; whence the bon-mot of Charles V., " That he 
could put all Paris in his Gand" i. e. his glove* At 
2 C 



290 



GHENT. 



present a great proportion of the ground enclosed 
within the walls is not built upon. It contains 
however 58,000 inhabitants, and is a bishop's see. 
Although the streets of Ghent are in general wide 
and well built, a few of the most frequented are so 
narrow that two carriages cannot pass each other. 
It stands on 27 islands, most of which are bor- 
dered by magnificent quays. Three hundred 
bridges connect these islands. Along the bank of 
the canal called Coupiere is a very beautiful 
walk. 

Ghent was formerly the capital of Austrian 
Flanders, and lately of the department of the 
Scheldt. It has many silk, linen, lace, and wool- 
len manufactories, and carries on a considerable 
traffic in corn. The staple commerce of Ghent 
for many years previous to the Revolution con- 
sisted in lace, and particularly the kind called 
sorted lace. Great quantities were sent to Hol- 
land, England, France, Spain, and the Colonies. 
Since the interruption of commerce some very 
large cotton manufactories have been established, 
which" still give employment to the children and 
young girls, but to the very great injury of their 
health and morals. 

The surrounding country produces much 
tobacco, madder, corn, and rlax. One of the 
most flourishing manufactories of Ghent is that of 
masks. They are exported in great quantities to 
every part of Europe. The city and neigh bour- 
. hood contain numerous bleaching grounds, and 
linens are sent from every part of the Netherlands 
to be whitened here. 



GHENT. 



€91 



The cathedral of St. Bouvon well merits the 
attention of the traveller, not on account of its 
exterior magnificence, but the wonderful richness 
and splendour of its interior. The principal altar 
and the sanctuary are unrivalled. The pillars of 
pure white Italian marble form a striking contrast 
with the beautiful plates of black marble with 
which the whole of the cathedral is lined. 

The pulpit is exquisitely carved. It is supported 
by the figure of an old man, before whom an angel 
opens the Scriptures at this passage, " Awake thou 
that sleepest, and arise from the dead, and Christ 
shall give thee life." 

The statue of Bishop Triest by Quesnoy is 
much and deservedly esteemed. It is one of the 
most admirable specimens of modern sculpture. 

The paintings recovered from the grasp of the 
French are valuable. The traveller will admire 
a the Death of Christ'' by Vanhonthurn, " the 
Resurrection of Lazarus" by Van Veen, and par- 
ticularly " the Paschal Lamb" by Van Eyck. 

Under this church are the ruins of another, 
exhibiting some curious specimens of ancient 
sculpture. 

The steeple of the Cathedral presents the same 
unfinished appearance that is observed in many of 
the religious edifices of this country. It abruptly 
terminates with a platform that cannot be pleasing 
to the eye of taste. 

If the tourist will endure the fatigue of toiling to 
the summit of this tower, the whole of Ghent will 
be seen at his feet, with its numerous canals, the 
2 c 2 



292 



GHENT. 



windings of the Scheldt, and an immeasurable 
extent of level, but highly cultivaied country. 

The architecture of the church of St. Michael 
is grand and imposing, but it is principally to be 
visited for a painting of " the Crucifixion" by Van- 
dyke in his noblest style. The spectator will gaze 
on it with admiration and awe. The modern 
painter Lens has one of his happiest performances 
here, entitled " the Annunciation/' Two other 
modern paintings are executed in a style suffi- 
ciently pleasing. 

Ghent contains the only large nunnery that 
remains in Belgium. Prior to the Revolution, the 
Emperor Joseph II., had commenced the reform- 
ation and reduction of the monasteries and convents ; 
and during the anarchy of revolutionary times, they 
were almost all dissolved, and their estates confis- 
cated and sold. The principal convent of Ghent 
survived the general wreck. Access to part of it is 
easily obtained, and the traveller will not omit to 
visit the chapel, and as much of the interior of the 
convent as he can gain permission to see. The 
Protestant worship is publicly performed in the 
church of the Capuchins. 

The Town-hall is an immense and magnificent 
building, but it presents an incongruous mixture of 
ancient and modern architecture. 

The present Academy was formerly a religious 
edifice. It contains a noble collection of the 
works of the best Flemish artists ancient and 
modern. Access to it is easily obtained by the 
traveller. Lectures are delivered in the winter by 



GHENT. 



293 



able professors on every branch of literature and 
the arts, and more than 200 pupils usually attend 
on the regular instructions of the College. 

The public Library should not be omitted. 
This building also was formerly devoted to religious 
purposes. The architecture is not unpleasing, and 
the library contains a magnificent collection of 
ancient and modern books, with many valuable 
MSS. The treasures of which it had been plun- 
dered by the French are all restored, and the 
imperial stamp on many of them will not fail of 
being observed. 

The Botanic garden is laid out with much taste, 
and contains many scarce and valuable specimens. 
It is open to the inspection of the public every 
day. 

The College of Ghent is a noble and useful 
establishment. It consists of a master and six pro- 
fessors, who lecture on the classics, poetry, rhe- 
toric, logic, ethics, the modern languages, and the 
mathematics. Public prizes are distributed every 
year, and the examination is conducted with the 
utmost impartiality and solemnity in the presence 
of the magistrates and principal inhabitants of the 
city. 

The College is principally supported by consi- 
derable funds destined for that purpose ; and the 
whole expense of education does not exceed 20/. 
per annum. The usual number of students is 
about 200, and many English children are edu- 
cated here. Protestants as well as Catholics are 
admitted, but every pupil is compelled to attend 
mass, with this distinction, that the English Pro 
2 c 3 



294 



GHEST. 



testants are permitted to use the book of s com- 
mon prayer of the church of England, while 
the Catholic has the ritual of the church of 
Rome. 

The prison, like almost every house of cor- 
rection in the Netherlands, is admirably managed. 
The traveller will derive much satisfaction from 
inspecting the different wards and apartments. 

John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, was born 
in the Castle of Ghent, the ruins of which yet 
remain. Ghent was likewise the birth-place of 
the Fmperor Charles V. 

The inhabitants of Ghent made a distinguished 
figure in the wars that for so many ages deso- 
lated Flanders. The physiognomical traveller will 
perceive something peculiar, and characteristic of 
courage in their countenances. The numerous 
armies which they sent into the field exceed all belief. 
In 1382, while a part of their troops besieged 
Oudenarde, an army of 40,000 men attacked the 
combined forces of Charles VI. and Louis de Male. 
In that engagement they lost 20,000 men, and yet 
remained sufficiently strong to undertake the siege 
of Bruges. The history of Ghent was little more 
than a history of sedition and revolts. After an 
unsuccesslul rebellion against Charles V., they 
were pardoned on this singular condition, that 
their magistrates should appear before him with 
halters round their necks, and should always wear 
them when they exercised any judicial tunction, 
They soon transformed this humiliating badge into 
an ornament by twisting it into a True Loxers 
Knot. An ancient poet alludes to this in some 



Ghent. 



Latin verses, in which he characterizes the six 
principal cities of the Netherlands: 

Nobilibus Bruxella viris, Antverpia nummis, 
Gandavum laqueis, formosis Bruga puellis, 
Lovanium doctis, gaudet Mecklima slultis I 

At a later period Ghent again suffered for 
refusing to obey a tyrant's mandate. The Prince 
of Broglio, Bishop of Ghent, gave much offence 
to Napoleon, and was imprisoned, and another 
dignitary appointed by the imperial autocrat. The 
clergy of Ghent refused to assist him in the per- 
formance of religious worship, or in any form to 
acknowledge or receive the new bishop. Napo- 
leon, who could ill brook any opposition to his 
will, immediately ordered no less than 270 eccle- 
siastics to be arrested, marched to Antwerp, and 
employed on the fortifications of that place. 

Broglio has been reinstated in the episcopal 
chair, and the priests, released from manual labour, 
are again engaged in the service of the sanctuary. It 
is said that many of them have not learned much 
Christian charity in the school of adversity, but 
view with an evil eye, and oppose to the utmost of 
their power, that universal toleration which forms 
the most pleasing feature of the Belgic consti- 
tution. 

Ghent is the chosen abode of a considerable 
proportion of the Belgic nobility. Few of the 
nobility and land-proprietors reside in their coun- 
try-houses as they do in England. Flanders has 
unfortunately been the seat of most of the wars 
that have convulsed Europe, and the inhabitants 
of the open country have been too frequently 



296 



GHENT. 



exposed to violence and pillage. The noble and 
opulent families have therefore fixed their perma- 
nent residence in the fortified towns, and Ghent 
has always been a favourite spot. 

Numerous English families reside at Ghent. 
Too many have emigrated to Flanders from mo- 
tives of economy. In Brussels they have pro- 
bably found that house-rent and provisions of 
every kind are almost as dear as in most districts 
of England. At Ghent and at Bruges, and par- 
ticularly at the latter, the expenses of a family are 
considerably less. The houses of Ghent, however, 
are ancient and gloomy; and are usually much too 
large to suit with those ideas of comfort which the 
Englishman in the middle ranks of society forms. 

House-rent is reasonable at Ghent ; vegetables 
are abundant ; meat is rather cheaper than in Lon- 
don; and fish and bread are at nearly the same 
price. The grand secret of living cheap in Flan- 
ders is, that the emigrant will there submit to 
many privations, and will adopt a moderate and 
economic style, to which his pride would not per- 
mit him to stoop in his native country and sur- 
rounded by those to whom he was known. 

A fair of fifteen days commences March the 
15th; another of seventeen days, July the 10th ; 
a third of one day, August the 9th ; and a fourth 
of two days, October the 3d. The principal inns 
are, the Paradise, the English Hotel, the Stag, the 
Golden Lion, and the Flemish Hotel. The best 
coffee-houses are, the Grand Coffee-house, the 
Imperial Arms, the Themis, the Exchange, Vi- 
lani's, and the Ghent. 



SAS-VAN-GHENT. AXEL. — HULST, &C. 297 



Fourteen miles m of Ghent is Sas-van-Ghent 
on the canal from Ghent to the Scheldt, with sluices, 
by which the country can be laid under water. 

Axel is four miles n. of Sas-van-Ghent. 
Though it contains but l60 houses it is divided 
into twenty streets, and has an excellent Town- 
hall and Exchange. 

Hulst is six miles E. of Axel. It is a small 
but very ancient and strongly-fortified town. The 
Gothic church of St. Willibrod deserves atten- 
tion. The Town-hall is a noble building. The 
air of Hulst is supposed to be unhealthy. 

Eighteen miles w.n.w. of Axel, in an island of 
the same name, is Biervleit. On November 
the 12th, 1377? the sea suddenly inundated nine- 
teen villages in this neighbourhood and scarcely a 
soul escaped. Although this inundation was fol- 
lowed by three others not less destructive, the 
industry and perseverance of the Dutch have re- 
covered every acre. This was the birth-place of 
Berkelen, to whom the Dutch are indebted for 
the method of curing herrings. He died in 1397* 
His memory was held in such veneration that 
Charles V". and the Queen of Hungary made a 
journey to visit his tomb. 

From Ghent to Bruges the traveller passes 
through a small part of that district of Flanders, 
which, reaching from Antwerp to the south of 
Ghent, is known by the name of Pays de Waes. 
I shall avail myself of this opportunity to give an 
account of it. 

This district forms a beautiful model of industry 
and fertility. The natural soil is a barren and 



29S 



PAYS DE WAES. 



shifting sand, but the perseverance of the inhabi- 
tants has covered it with a rich black mould to an 
astonishing depth. As the traveller passes along 
the high road a very striking contrast presents 
itself between the natural and artificial soil. Where 
the road is not paved, his wheels or his horses' 
feet sink into a sterile sand, and he finds it, in dry 
weather, almost impossible to proceed ; but on the 
other side of a little quickset hedge, a rich luxu- 
uriant mould presents itself which few parts of 
Europe can equal. 

The fields are usually very small and surround- 
ed with a neat quickset hedge and a deep ditch. 
Each field is formed into a little hill in a very 
curious manner and with wonderful labour. The 
centre is more or less elevated, and the ground 
gradually slopes to the ditch. The nature of the 
soil suggested this peculiar and ingenious method 
of husbandry. Consisting of a thirsty porous sand, 
if the rain fell perpendicularly and with violence 
upon it, the manure would be washed through and 
lost, but when each field presents a gentle de- 
clivity the water glides over the surface without 
injury. 

The whole of the Pays de Waes appears like 
one continued village interspersed with gardens. 
The hamlets are so extensive and touch so closely 
on one another, that it is impossible to perceive 
where one terminates and the next begins. The 
roads are every where bordered with farm and 
country houses. These are generally small, but 
have a pleasing character of neatness and com- 
fort. To see this unique country in its full per- 



ST. NICHOLAS AND LOKEREM. 299 

fection the traveller should go from Antwerp to 
Ghent. For the agricultural tourist it will afford 
a complete study. 

Between Antwerp and Ghent are the two villages 
of St. Nicholas and Lokerem, each containing more 
than 11,000 inhabitants. They possess some 
flourishing manufactories of cotton, sail-cloth, and 
lace, and have well-frequented markets for corn, 
hemp, linseed and flax. The general appearance 
of the inhabitants bespeaks the prosperous state of 
the agriculture and commerce of the Paysde Waes. 

Three routes offer themselves to the traveller 
between Ghent and Bruges. A barge sets out 
every morning at 9 o'clock, and possesses every 
possible convenience. The cabins are furnished 
as neatly as little parlours, and contain tables, 
chairs, glasses, china, &c. The roef is a truly 
elegant apartment. A dinner is provided at a 
moderate expense, as good and as clean as could 
be procured at the best inn ; and liquors of every 
kind may be purchased at the cheapest rate. The 
time of departure and the time occupied in the 
journey are determined to a minute, and the 
bank on either side, except at low water, offers an 
uninterrupted succession of pleasing objects. 

The journey occupies 7 hours, and for the 
passage and ordinary no more than 5 francs are 
paid. There is a second table to which the dishes 
are removed when the guests at the first table are 
satisfied* If the ceconomic traveller should not 
object to dine there, the whole charge for ordinary 
and passage will not exceed 3 francs. 

After dinner the waiter carries round a little 



300 



MARIAKERCKE. 



iron box from guest to guest, who present what 
douceur they please ; a small copper coin is all 
that is usually expected. The waiter has one 
third of the sum collected, and the rest is devoted 
to the maintenance of the poor, for whose support 
and relief there are no poor-rates in Holland or 
Belgium. 

Should the traveller decline all refreshment, or 
carry his own provision with him, the expense of 
his passage from Ghent to Bruges is but one franc. 

The only inconvenience of the barge is that 
the traveller must walk, and get his luggage car- 
ried three quarters of a mile to the head of the 
basin, unless he hires a little caravan or cabriolet 
which for a franc and a half will convey him and 
his chattels from almost every part of the city. 

The barge that is at present employed between 
Ghent and Ostend was built for Napoleon, and 
had the honour of conveying him from one town 
to another. 

The pedestrian or the horseman will probably 
follow the towing-path by the side of the canal, 
but carriages must proceed by the post-road. To 
preserve the uniformity of my work I shall give a 
topographical account of the post-road. 

Quitting Ghent the traveller crosses the canal of 
Bruges, and leaving Dronghem on his left, arrives 
at Mariakercke, abounding with the villas of the 
principal merchants of Ghent. Then crossing the 
canal a second time, leaving Wondelghem on the 
right, crossing a river, and passing Meerendre and 
Vinderhaute on the left, he crosses the canal of 
Damme. Then having Lovendeghem on the left, 



BRUGES. 



301 



Everghelm on the right, Semerghern and Ronsele 
on the left, and Meydengen on the right, and cross- 
ing the canal of Damme, he reaches Waerschoot. 
Afterwards crossing a river and a wood, leaving Oost- 
winckel on the left, traversing a wood for more than 
two miles, and crossing another river, he arrives at 
Ecloo. He then skirts a little wood, crosses the 
canal of Damme and a river, and passing near 
Adeghem, visits Maldeghem. Then crossing a 
river, a little wood, another river, and leaving 
Moerkercke on the right, and Oedelem on the left, 
he visits Sysseele ; and after skirting a wood and 
leaving Assebrouck on his left, and Saint-Cruys 
on his right, arrives at Bruges through a noble 
avenufc of trees extending to a considerable distance. 

Bruges was formerly the residence of the Counts 
of Flanders, and attained its highest prosperity in 
the time of Philip the Good, who displayed a mag- 
nificence which no monarch could rival, and whose 
power was dreaded by all his neighbours. It was 
then the emporium of the commerce of the world, 
and could boast that consuls from every kingdom in 
Europe resided w r ithin its walk. It was one of the 
leading cities of the Hanseatic league, which was a 
confederacy of 60 of the principal towns of Europe 
for the protection and improvement of commerce. 
Bruges was selected as the grand depot of naval stores . 

In 1301 Philippe-le-Bel visited Bruges. As- 
tonished at the opulence and magnificence of the 
place, he exclaimed " I thought that I was the only 
king in Flanders, but here are a hundred kings/' 

Many of the public buildings of Bruges yet 
testify the ancient splendour of the place. The 
2 D 



302 



BRUGES. 



present British poet-laureate thus describes them 
in his " Pilgrimage to Waterloo 

The season of her splendour is gone by t 
Yet every where its monuments remain, 
Temples which rear their stately heads on high, 
Canals that intersect the fertile plain. 

Wide streets and squares, with many a court and hall, 

Spacious and undefaced, but ancient all. 

The civil wars in the l6th century drove the 
trade of Bruges first to Antwerp and afterwards to 
Amsterdam. Its canals, which communicate with 
every part of Holland and Flanders, still secure it 
some traffic, and it is the chosen residence of many 
of the principal Flemish families, and merchants 
retired from trade. 

Its chief manufactories are lace, china, 
earthen-ware, woollen cloths, tickings, and dimi- 
ties. The making of lace employs 4,000 hands. 
A blue dye peculiar to Bruges is much esteemed. 
It contains 33,000 inhabitants. 

The streets of Bruges, although narrow, are 
neat and clean, and the houses wear an appear- 
ance of grandeur, combined with comfort. 

The Town-hall is a noble specimen of Gothic 
architecture, and its tower affords an extensive and 
not unpleasing view of the city and surrounding 
country. It possesses an exceedingly musical 
set of carillons or chimes, and the cylinder that 
sets them in motion is curious on account of its 
immense size and height. 

In the church of Notre Dame is one of those 
curiously-carved pulpits which are almost peculiar 



BRUGES. 



SOS 



to the Netherlands, and which certainly are not 
excelled in any country. 

An exquisite statue of the Virgin with the 
infant Jesus, will not escape the attention of the 
connoisseur. It was stolen by the French during 
their occupation of Belgium, but restored after 
the second capture of Paris by the Allies. 

This church contains the magnificent tombs of 
Charles the Bold, and his daughter Marv of Bur- 
gundy. During the period of revolutionary 
anarchy the ornaments of these tombs were care- 
fully secreted by one of the officers of the church. 
For this he was proscribed, and a price set on his 
head. His pious care was afterwards rewarded 
by Napoleon, who has repaired these ancient 
sepulchres, and likewise that of the grandmother 
of his empress. 

The church of St. Salvador contains some ex- 
cellent paintings, particularly the " Baptism of 
John" and the " Resurrection of Christ" by Van Os. 

The church of Jerusalem will be visited by 
every pious catholic. It possesses what is said to 
be an exact resemblance of the tomb of the 
Saviour. How the accuracy of the resemblance 
can possibly be known, is a question which per- 
haps it will not be prudent to ask. This church 
likewise contains some interesting specimens of 
antique coloured glass. 

A convent of English nuns is established in 
Bruges, but neither the convent nor chapel possess 
any thing worthy of notice. 

This city was the birth-place of John of Bruges, 
the inventor of painting in oil ; and although the 
2 d 2 



304 



ARDENBERG. 



town presents merely a shadow of its former mag- 
nificence, it has lost little of that taste for the Fine 
Arts for which it was once pre-eminently distin- 
guished. It yet boasts an academy of painting, 
sculpture, and architecture. The professors are 
well appointed, and the lectures are attended by 
numerous pupils. 

Decimal arithmetic is said to have been invent- 
ed at Bruges by Simon Stephen in 1602. 

The principal inns are the Wheat-blossom, the 
Commercial Hotel, the English Hotel, the Golden 
Lion, the Golden Monkey, and the Bear. 

There is a fair the first Thursday after Easter 
and July the 25th for horses, and two of fifteen 
days each, commencing May 4th and October 1st, 
for every kind of merchandise. The walks of 
Stenbragge and Schipsdaele are very pleasant. 

Ten miles N.E.of Bruges is Ardenberg. Be- 
fore the twelfth century it was a place of very con- 
siderable consequence, but it is now dwindled into 
insignificance. 

There are three modes of travelling between 
Bruges and Ostend, as between Ghent and Bruges, 
with this difference, that the boat which goes daily 
is not so neat or convenient, and the provisions 
much inferior. The general appearance of the 
country is likewise less agreeable. The vegeta- 
tion is not so abundant, the trees are not so luxu- 
riant, and the blighting quality of the sea-wind 
becomes more and more visible. The canal be- 
tween Bruges and Ostend is very large and deep. 

Coaches daily pass between Bruges and Ostend ; 
and the price of a cabriolet for that distance 



OSTEND. 



305 



is about 20 francs, including every expense ex- 
cept a gratuity to the postilion. 

Leaving Bruges, passing through Saint-Andries, 
and skirting a wood, the traveller arrives at Vars- 
senare ; then leaving Snellegem on the right, and 
crossing a river, he reaches Jabeke. Proceeding 
hence, having Zerkegem on the left, crossing a 
river, leaving Ettelgem on the right, passing by 
Westkercke, leaving Oudenburg on the right, and 
crossing another river, he arrives at the post house 
of Ghistel. Proceeding forward, crossing a river, 
leaving Snaeskercke on the right, then crossing 
the canal of Nieuport, leaving Lessinghem on the 
left, Steene on the right, Mariakercke on the left, 
and passing a river, he at length arrives at Ostend. 

The traveller by the trekschuit is landed at the 
sluices at the end of the Bruges canal, nearly a 
mile from the town. Several little boats are, how- 
ever, waiting on the other side of the sluice, which 
for a trifling gratuity will convey him and his 
luggage into the very heart of Ostend ; or he may 
intrust his portmanteau to one of the numerous 
boys and porters whom he will find there, and 
who will safely conduct him to the inn at which 
he proposes to take up his temporary abode. 

Ostend is a fortified sea-port situated among 
numerous canals. The harbour is considered to 
be the second in Europe, but the entrance to it is 
only practicable at nearly high water. Ships of 
the greatest burden then enter the town with the 
tide. The sluices, particularly the Slykens, are 
'worth attention. 

Ostend boasts of considerable antiquity, A 
2d3 



S05 



OSTEND. 



charter by which it claims many immunities is 
dated so early as 1072, and it was known to exist 
as a fishing town in 810. It endured a remark- 
able siege of three years and three months against 
the Spaniards from 1601 to 1604. 50,000 of 
the garrison and inhabitants perished by disease 
or the sword, and 80,000 of he besiegers. It at 
length capitulated on honourable terms. In 1798 
the English landed and destroyed the sluices of 
the Bruges canal, but the wind shifting before they 
could re-embark, they w r ere compelled to sur- 
render to the French, 

While Ostend remained in the power of the 
French, much care was bestowed in extending 
and strengthening its fortifications. British en- 
gineers have completed what the enemy com- 
menced, and Ostend may now rank among the 
most strongly fortified towns in Europe. 

The Town-hall, though low, is very handsome. 
The churches present nothing to arrest the tra- 
vellers attention, unless he pauses to view with 
wonder and disgust the grotesque yet horrible re- 
presentation of the tortures of purgatory in one of 
them. 

The town affords no fresh water, and the in- 
habitants are obliged to procure it from Bruges. 
It is preserved in enormous reservoirs, which in 
summer too often diffuse a noisome and pesti- 
lential smell. 

The chief commerce is in linen of every kind. 
The houses being built very low, on account of the 
high winds that often blow from the sea, would 
give Ostend a mean appearance, did not the width 



OSTEND, 307 

of the streets, the beauty of the market-place, and 
the immense size of many of the edifices excite 
recollections of former grandeur. The town now 
contains only 10,000 inhabitants ; among these are 
numerous English families, who experience one 
sad deprivation in possessing no religious edifice 
devoted to the Protestant worship. 

Ostend witnesses so great an influx of French 
and English travellers, that French, English, and 
Flemish are spoken with almost equal facility by 
the merchants, and by those who are more im- 
mediately connected with the shipping. Even the 
signs of the inns, the inscriptions on the houses 
of the tradesmen, and the common posting-bills, 
have usually a French, and sometimes an English 
translation annexed to them. The corners of the 
streets are inscribed in French. 

The principal inns are, the Great St. Michael, 
the Old St. Michael, the Bellevue, the English 
Hotel, the Crown, the Town-House, the Imperial 
Court, and the Rose, kept by Mr. Nicholson, an 
Englishman. The Great and the Little are the 
most frequented coffee-houses. Two fairs of eight 
days each commence June 27th and November 
23d. Packet boats sail almost daily from Ostend 
to London, or to some of the ports on the eastern 
coast of England. 

During the summer a boat leaves Ostend every 
morning at five o'clock, and the traveller arrives at 
Bruges in sufficient time to proceed by a second 
vessel to Ghent on the same evening. The walk 
round the fortifications of the town afford some 
pleasing views of the sea. 



308 MONS TO OSTEND. 



SECT. XXVI. Route from Moris to Ostend. 

As the traveller may probably have landed at 
Ostend, and proceeded to Brussels by the route 
which I have just described, he may continue his 
progress from Mons (Route 21) through the south- 
western part of Flanders, without retracing the 
steps which he has already trodden. 

Posts. Miles. 



MonstoAth 3 , . . . l6| 

Ath to Leuze 3 § .... %i 

Leuze to Tournay 2 .... 11 

Tournay to Courtray 3§ .... 191 

Courtray to Menin 1J . . . . 7 

Menin to Ypres 2J .... 12| 

Ypres to Rousbrugge 2 J .... 151 

Rousbrugge to Furnes ........ 2f .... 151 

Extra charge for the 3d horse 
in the winter. 

Furnes to Ghistel Si . ... 191 

Ghistel to Ostend ............ 1 .... 5\ 



23| 1291 

On leaving Mons the traveller passes through 
Nimy, crosses the river Haine, ascends a hill, 
and leaving Maisieres to the right, and passing 
another hill, passing Erbisceul on the left, and 
Masnuy-Saint-Jean on the right, arrives at Jurbise. 
Then passing Erbault on the left, and crossing a 
river, he reaches Lens. Then he passes Baufle on 



ATH.— GRAM MO NT. 



509 



his left, Cambron-Saint- Vincent on his right, 
Chievres on his left, Brugeleuc and Attre on his 
right, and Tongres on his left ; afterwards crossing 
a river and leaving Arbre on his right, he visits 
Maffle. Then passing Ormegnies, Moulbaix, 
Villers-Notre-Dame, and Irchonwels, on his left, 
he arrives at Ath. 

Ath is a small, but strongly fortified, well- 
peopled and flourishing town, on the river Dender. 
The Town-hall, arsenal, and church of Saint 
Julien, merit the traveller's attention. Near Ath 
is the Chateau de Bellceuil, celebrated for its 
magnificent gardens. Its environs furnish abun- 
dance of flax and hemp, which employ some exten- 
sive manufactories. A fair of nine days for cattle, 
wool, flax, &c. commences August 27th. The 
population is 7>600. 

Fifteen miles N. of Ath is Grammont, on the 
Dender. In 1381 this town was taken by storm, 
and every soul put to the sword. 

On quitting Ath, the traveller crosses the river 
Dender, and soon arrives at B ran tignies ; then 
having Irchonwels on the left, he comes to Villers- 
Saint-Amand; afterwards passing a hill, again cross- 
ing the Dender, leaving Ligne to the right, going 
between Endricourt and Croix de Bourgogne, and 
leaving Catoire on his left, he reaches Wattines, 
and soon after, leaving la Chapelle on his right, 
arrives at the post-house at Leuse. 

Proceeding from Leuse, and having Pipaix on 
the left, he reaches Trimont ; then passing near 
Bariseul crossing a hill, traversing the wood of 



310 



TOURNAY. 



Barry for two miles, seeing Gauzain on the left, 
going near Romecroix, passing on the left Fonte- 
noy, the scene of the celebrated battle of 1745, 
in which Marshal Saxe defeated the Duke of 
Cumberland, he comes to Bourquembrays ; then 
leaving Warchin on the right, he arrives at 
Tournay. 

Tournay is situated on the Scheldt, and is 
supposed to derive its name from the five towers of 
the Cathedral. It is a bishop's see, with a strong 
castle. It was built 500 years before the Chris- 
tian era, and was called by the Romans Civitas 
Nerviorum. The cathedral, the abbey Saint 
Martin, and some of the squares and public build- 
ings are very magnificent. It is particularly noted 
for good stockings, and for a manufactory of car- 
pets and coverings of tables, employing nearly 5,000 
persons. This manufactory is conducted on the 
most liberal and benevolent plan, and a regular 
and decent provision is made for those who have 
grown old in the employment. Even the widows 
of the superannuated workmen receive a small 
annuity. 

A considerable quantity of linen, woollen, and 
cotton stuffs of an inferior kind is made here. 
Two china manufactories are celebrated for the 
brilliancy of their blue colour, and many orna- 
mental gilt and bronze articles are not inferior to 
the best productions of Paris. 

In the neighbourhood are some stone-quarries, 
and others which produce abundance of tolerable 
marble. 



COURTRAY, 311 

j A royal college is about to be established here. 

; Tournay contains 21,000 inhabitants^ and has been 

| very often taken and retaken. 

The principal hotels are the Little Neve, the 

jj Golden Ape, the Imperial and the Empress's 

|| Hotel. Fairs of ten days begin May 22, and Sep- 

j tember 23. 

Proceeding from Tournay, passing through 
Sept-Fontaines, and viewing Froyennes on the left, 
the traveller arrives at Noel-Nis. Then leaving 
Thain on the right, Ramegnies on the left, passing 
near Esquelmes, and having Bailleul on the left, 
he visits C alettes, and passing Etaimbourg on the 
left, soon reaches Pecq-sur-l'Escant. Going 
close by Warcoign, having Saint Leger on the 
left, passing by an hospital, crossing the river 
Tourcoign, leaving Espierre on the right and Dot- 
tignies on the left, he comes to Cocyghem ; then 
crossing a hill, the wood of Sainte-Trinite, a valley, 
a hill, another valley, and a river, he arrives at 
Courtray. 

Courtray is celebrated for its manufactories 
of lace, table-linen, and woollen-cloth. It has 
sustained many memorable sieges, and now has 
14,000 inhabitants. The finest flax is grown in 
the neighbourhood, and supplies many of the 
markets of Europe. Courtray is the general 
market for raw and spun flax. A fair of fifteen 
days begins on Easter Tuesday, and another 
of the same continuance on August 24th, for 
every kind of merchandise. These fairs are much 
frequented. 

Eighteen miles n. w. of Courtray is Oude- 



312 OUDENARDE NINOVE, &C, 

narde, having a manufactory of very fine linen $ 
and curious tapestry. Oudenarde claims the ho* 
no ur ofhaving invented the beautiful tapestry of 
the 15th century. In 1708 it was besieged by 
the French, but they were attacked by the Duke 
of Marlborough, and routed with the loss of 7,000 
prisoners. Europe had not for many years pro- 
duced two such noble armies. Above 100 general 
officers appeared in the field ; and 250 colonels 
fought at the head of their respective regiments. 
Oudenarde has many handsome buildings, the 
principal of which is the town-house. Its manu- 
factories are nankeens and tapestry. The number 
of inhabitants is estimated at 4,000. 

Midway between Oudenarde and Brussels is- 
Ninove, on the Dender. The abbey of Saint 
Cyprian is very magnificent. 

Continuing his route from Courtray, the travel- 
ler passes the hamlet of Niderbecke, then a river, 
and soon afterwards the village of Bisseghem. The 
road now lies between the rivers Niderbecke and 
Lys. Then having Marcke on the left, passing 
through Wevelghem, and leaving Lauwe and 
Reckem on the left, he arrives at Menin. 

Men in is erected on the Lys. It contains about 
6,000 inhabitants, and is famous for its beer, cloth, 
and table-linen. Near Menin is the beautiful vil- 
lage of Isenghien. Fairs of nine days each begin 
on June 24th, and October 17th. 

Between Menin and Lannoy is the large village 
of Tourcoing, containing 12,000 inhabitants. 
It has been three times destroyed by fire. 

On quitting Menin the road follows, for a little 



YPRES. 



SIS 



way, the course of a river, then ascending a hill, 
the traveller arrives at Gheluwe; after which, 
passing Zantvoord on the left, and Becelacre on 
the right, then traversing a forest for three miles, 
afterwards leaving Zonnebeke on the right, and 
Zillebeke on the left, and crossing a river and a 
hill, he reaches Ypres. 

Ypres on the Yperlee, is a pleasant well-built 
town, containing 15,000 inhabitants. It is a for- 
tified city, and a bishop's see. The Town-hall and 
the cathedral are noble buildings. The former 
occupies a very considerable part of the great 
square, and bespeaks the ancient population and 
prosperity of the town. « Ypres is surrounded by 
extensive marshes, the pestilential effluvia of which 
give a sallow hue to the complexions of- the inha- 
bitants, and are too often fatal to strangers. It is a 
common proverb in Holland that a pale and sickly 
person looks like the death's head of Ypres. 

This town has considerable manufactories of 
cloth, serges, ribands, and thread. The canal of 
Bosingen, and the New Cut, greatly expedite the 
conveyance of goods to Nieuport, Ostend, and 
Bruges. Diaper was so called, as being princi- 
pally made in this town (D'Yper). In the 14th 
century Ypres contained more than treble its 
present population, and its manufactories alone 
employed 20,000 persons. 

Fairs of ten days each begin March 2d, and 
July 30th. 

The first place on the road to Rousbrugge is 
Briclen ; then going by Vlaemertinghe on the left, 
crossing a river, and passing a little wood on the 
2 E 



314 POPERINGHE— FURNES, &C, 

right, the traveller arrives at Elverdinghe. pro- 
ceeding thence, crossing another river, passing 
near Gestene, and between two woods, he comes 
to Oostvleteren. Crossing another river, leaving 
Westvleteren on the right, then crossing a fourth 
river, and passing the wood of Keyselaeres on the 
left, he reaches Crombeecke; and afterwards leaving 
Stavele on the right, crossing a fifth river, passing 
Proven on the left, and Beveren on the right, 
he arrives at Rousbrugge. 

Midway on the road between Ypres and Rous- 
brugge, and two miles to the left, is Poperingiie, 
on the river of the same name, with a considera- 
ble traffic in serge. The hops of Poperinghe are 
much celebrated. 

From Rousbrugge to Furnes is a cross-road 
and a canal, by Breveren and Leyzel. 

Furnes is on the canal between Bruges and 
Dunkirk. It is small, but pleasant and well built. 
The air is supposed to be unhealthy for strangers. 
Its commerce is in grain, hops, cheese, and beer. 
It has the largest market for linen in Belgium, and 
contains 3,000 inhabitants. Fairs of eight days 
each commence on March 26th, May 5th, and 
October 3d, for every kind of merchandise. 

Eight miles e. of Furnes is Dixmude, on the 
Yper. The great church is a noble building. The 
town has often been besieged and burnt. It is 
celebrated for its excellent cheese, butter, and beer. 

At Furnes the traveller will find it most pleasant, 
much shorter, and less expensive, to embark on 
the canal from Dunkirk to Ostend. He will not 
meet with the conveniences to which he has been 



NIEUPOHT. 



315 



accustomed on some other canals, but he will have 
no great reason to complain. The canal passes 
through Oostdunkerckt and Nieuport. 

At Nieuport are sluices by which the neigh- 
bouring country can be laid under water. The 
principal traffic is in herrings, nets, and ropes. 
The air is unhealthy, and the garrison is frequently 
changed. 

Beyond Nieuport the canal passes through 
Wilskerck and Plassendocle, to Ostend. At the lat- 
ter village it joins the canal from Bruges to Ostend. 

If the traveller is encumbered with a carriage, 
or determined to go post, or by the coach, he must 
proceed to GhisteL 

Leaving Steenkercke on his right, crossing a 
river, and passing Eggewaerts and Zoutenay ori 
his right, he goes through Aven-Capelle. Then 
crossing a river, passing Saint-Heerwillems-Capelle 
on the left, and crossing another river, he reaches 
Saint-Catherine-Capelle. Then leaving Stuvekins- 
kercke on the right, he passes through Perwyse, 
crosses several rivers, goes near Schoore, crosses 
another river, passes Mannekensvere on his left, 
and Leke on his right, goes through Saint-Peters- 
Capelle, passes Slype on the left, and Zande on 
the right, and visiting Sevecote, arrives at Ghistel, 
where he changes horses. 

This little place affording nothing particular, he 
crosses a river, leaves Snaeskcrcke on the right, 
crosses the Nieuport canal, passes Wilskercke and 
Lessinghe on the left, Steene on the right, Maria- 
kercke on the left, and crossing a river, arrives at 
Ostend (page 305.) 

2 e2 



316 



ROUTE FROM PARIS 



SECT. XXVII. Route from Paris to Brussels. 

As the metropolis of France is yet the principal 
object of attraction, notwithstanding she has been 
compelled to restore all the treasures of art with 
which she had enriched herself at the expense of 
every neighbouring country, and the traveller may 
probably have been induced to pay her his first 
visit, I shall conclude my work with a description 
of the route from Paris to Brussels. 

Previous to his leaving Paris, his passport must 
be sent to the British ambassador to be counter- 
signed. It should be sent one or two days before 
the traveller intends to commence his journey, lest 
any accidental delay should disarrange his plans. 
The ambassador will sign no passport before 12 
o'clock, and the business of every public office 
closes at 4. 

After the passport is returned from the French 
ambassador, it must be transmitted to the office 
for passports, Rue de Bac, where it is likewise 
countersigned, and for this a fee of 10 francs is 
demanded. It must then be again countersigned 
by the ambassador from the Netherlands. 

The same formalities are necessary should the 
traveller wish to proceed from Brussels to Paris. 

He will probably journey from Paris to Brussels, 
or vice-versa, by the diligence, which is neither 
uncomfortable nor unsafe. 



TO BRUSSELS. 317 

Posts. Miles- 
Paris to Bourget 1 § 8J 

Bourget to Louvres . 1 J . ...... .8 

Louvres to La-Chapelle-en-Serval 1J 8{ 

La Chapelle-en-Serval to Senlis. . 1 5| 

Senlis to Pont-Sainte-Maxence . . 1| 8|- 

Pont-Sainte-Maxence to Bois-de- 

Lihus 1J 8{ 

Bois-de-Lihus to Gournay-sur- 

Aronde . , lj. ...... .7 

Gournay-sur-Aronde to Cuvilly. , 1 5§ 

Cuvilly to Conchy-les-Pots 1 5§ 

Conchy-les-Pots to Roye \\ 8i 

Roye to Fonches 1 5 J 

Fonches to Marche-le-Pot 1 5% 

Marche-le-Pot to Peronne 1 1 , . . 8i 

P&ronne to Fins 2 . ......11 

Fins to Bonavy 1 J ,8i 

Bonavy to Cambray 1 J , 8£ 

Cambray to Bouchain 2 .11 

Bouchain to Valenciennes 2\ 12| 

„. Valenciennes to Quievrain ...... 1 8 J 

-Quievrain to Boussu ....... 1 . . \\ 7 

Boussu to Mons . . . . \\ ........ %\ 

Mons to Soignies 2 11 

Soignies to LaGenette 1| . %\ 

La Genette to Hal \\ „8J 

Hal to Brussels 2 11 

371 205 



The traveller leaves Paris by the gate and 
suburb of St. Martin. On his left is the rising 
2 S3 



318 



BELLEVILLE, &C. 



ground and the quarries of Belleville. The de- 
lightful situation of this village has deservedly 
conferred on it the name which it bears. Not 
only the whole of Paris is presented to the view, 
but the eye wanders over a far distant tract 
of country beautifully studded with trees and villas. 
Montfaucon is likewise on the left. On the right 
is Pre-Saint-Gervais, with its little hills prettily 
covered w r ith vineyards and orchards. Farther 
on are La Chapelle, and the numerous windmills 
of Montmartre on the left. 

We now go through La Villette, ancl passing the 
second stone* have Pantin on the right, and after- 
wards Romainville and Noisy at the foot of a hill. 

After the third stone Vertus and Saint Denis 
are oh the left. This last village is celebrated 
for its venerable and majestic abbey. Baubigny 
then occurs on the right, and Bondy, of whose 
forest the most tragical tales are yet told, and 
Livry. The road afterwards passes near the chateau 
of Raincy which belonged to the late Duke of 
Orleans, and the park and gardens of which are 
extremely picturesque. 

The fourth mile- stone brings us to a charming 
view. We then cross the river Montford, and 
some beautiful meadows ; Crevecceur is now on 
our left, and soon afterwards La Cour Neuve, 
and Petit-Drancy on the right. 

Passing the fifth stone, and leaving a battery 
and the avenue to the chateau and village of 
Grand-Drancy on the right, we cross the little 



* The space included between these stones is equal to 
nearly a mile and a half English. 



ARNOUVILLE. — LOUVRES. 319 



river Groslay and arrive at the village of Bourget, 
full of coffee-houses and taverns. 

Having changed horses, we leave Blancmenil 
and Coudray on the right, and Stains on the left, 
and passing through Pont-Yblon, and crossing the 
little river Tremblay, arrive at the seventh stone. 

Leaving Garges, Bonneuil, and Arnouville on 
the left, we pass the eighth stone. Arnouville 
is situated on the bank of the little river Cran. 
The park which contains about 300 acres, al- 
though it is laid out in the old French taste, is 
beautifully diversified with groves, lawns, cas- 
cades, and sheets of water. The appearance of 
the village is much admired. All the streets centre 
in a spacious lawn ornamented by a noble fountain. 

Proceeding on our journey we enjoy a beauti- 
ful view of the surrounding country, and leaving 
Gonnesse and Thillay on the left, pass the ninth 
and tenth stones. Gonnesse carries on a consider- 
able trade in grain and flour, and has some large 
manufactories of soap. The bread which is made 
here is most excellent, and supplies a great part of 
Paris. Gonnesse was the birth-place of Philip 
Augustus, of the third dynasty of the kings of France. 

Going through Vandelant, crossing a hill, pass- 
ing a battery, leaving Goussainville on the left, 
and then being presented with a beautiful prospect, 
we arrive at the eleventh stone. Then leaving 
Bonqueval and Plessis-Gassot on the left, passing 
the 1 2th stone, and a rapid declivity, we arrive at 
Louvres which is the second relay. Louvres is 
principally supported by the manufactory of lace. 
The steeple of oneofthe churches is much admired. 



320 



SENLIS. 



On quitting Louvres, we pass by the side of 
the park and chateau, soon after which the 
road lies between two chains of mountains ; then 
leaving Epiais, Mauregard, Le Mesnel, and Chene- 
vieres, on the right, and Fontenay-les-Louvres on 
the left, we pass the thirteenth stone. 

Leaving Villeron on the right, and Coudray 
wood, and the villages of Puiseux, Chatenay, and 
Barcy, on the left ; and then passing by the beau- 
tiful avenue which leads to Marly-la- Ville, we reach 
the fourteenth stone. Leaving Vemars on the 
right, and passing a steep declivity, and afterwards 
the hill of Guespelle, with Saint- Vy, and Survil- 
liers on the right ; passing the sixteenth stone, 
then crossing the hill and avenue of Beaumont, 
having the woods of Nibert and Herivaux on the 
left, going through an avenue of trees, and then leav- 
ing Plailly, and Mortfontaine, and Ory, on the 
left, and passing the seventeenth stone, we arrive at 
the third relay in La Chapelle-en-Serval. 

Traversing a wood, then leaving Neufmoulin on 
the right, and a little farther on, the wood of 
Moriere, crossing a small river, leaving Mon- 
gressin and the forest of Chantilly on the left, and 
Thiers on the right, we reach Pontarme a little 
beyond the nineteenth stone. After cn ssing the 
river Theve, we traverse the forest of Pontaime 
for three miles, and issuing from it at the twenty- 
first stone have a i>rand view of Senlis. Then 
leaving Saint-Leonard, Courteuil, and Saint-Nico- 
las on the left, and passing through the suburb, 
and crossing the river Nonnette, we ariive at Senlis. 

Sen us is nearly surrounded by forests, and 



*ONT-SAINT-MAXENCE. S21 

contains 4,400 inhabitants. It is a bishop's see. 
The cathedral is a magnificent structure, and the 
steeple is one of the highest in France. Senlii 
traces its origin to the Romans, by whom the walls 
of the tow r n were built. 

This town suffered much in the late cam- 
paigns. A sanguinary battle took place in the 
neighbourhood between Marshal Blucher and 
Generals Grouchy and Vandame, who were has- 
tening to cover the French capital. Senlis has 
considerable trade in grain, wine, wood, and 
beautiful porcelain, and has manufactories of cot- 
ton, coarse cloth, paper, lace, and buttons. Its 
bleaching-grounds are extensive, and its quarries 
afford excellent stone. A fair of nine days begins 
April 25, and of eight days October 21, for toys, 
mercery, &c. 

On quitting Senlis, we pass along the Boule- 
vard, then through an avenue of trees, and down 
a rapid declivity ; we next ascend a hill, have 
Vilvert on the left, pass some quarries, leave 
Chamant, Balagny, and Barbery, on the right, and 
crossing a valley and an avenue through which 
we may perceive Champlatreux below the forest 
of Chantilly, we arrive at the twenty-fourth stone. 
We now traverse the forest of Hallette for nearly 
two miles, and passing the sands of Aumont on 
the left, reach Fleurines beyond the twenty-fifth 
stone ; then leaving Saint Christophe on the right, 
the road again lying through the forest for two 
miles, descending a hill, and passing by a fountain, 
we arrive at Pont-Saint Maxence. 

Pont-Saint Maxence contains 3,000 inhabit- 



S22 BLINCOURT, BOIS-DE-LIHUS, &C. 

ants, whose principal trade is in grain, combs (of 
which there is a large manufactory), and leather. 
Many parts of the town bear evident traces of its 
Having' been the scene of military conflict, and 
much of it was destroyed in the hasty retreat of 
the French before the allies in 1815. 

As we depart from this town we cross a bridge 
over the river Oise, from which we may see 
Beaurepaire, Brenouille, and Rieux, on the left ; 
t hen going through the suburb of Flanders, fol- 
owing the course of a little river, and passing by 
a small wood and some meadows, we arrive at the 
thirtieth stone. Next passing Plessis-Lougueau on 
the left, passing by a large piece of 'water with 
an island in the centre, and soon afterwards several 
inns; leaving the wood of Bazicourt on the left, 
going near Saint Martin Longueau, having Dran- 
court and Sacy-le-Grand on the left, and Sacy-le- 
Petit on the right, then enjoying a beautiful pro- 
spect, and afterwards leaving Choisy and Avrigny 
on the left, we reach Blincourt. Then passing 
La-Motte-d'Ancourt on the left, going through an 
avenue of trees, leaving Arcy to the right, and 
skirting the wood of Lihus, we arrive at the ham- 
let and post-house of Bois-de-Lihus. 

On quitting Lihus we have another fine view, 
and leaving Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre and Bailleul-le- 
Sec on the left, and Moy villers on the right we 
reach Estree-Saint-Denis. The wood of Remy is 
now on the right, after which skirting the wood of 
Jresnel, leaving on the right the wood and village 
of Francieres, and a little farther off Remy and 
Lachelle, skirting the village of Henneviller, and 



GOURNAY-SUR-ARONDE, &C. 323 

soon after having a noble view towards Gournay ; 
then leaving Arsonval, and the wood of Monchy on 
the right, and, a little farther off, the mountain of 
Ganelon, and the forest of Compiegne ; next pass- 
ing a rapid descent, a canal, some meadows, the 
river Aronde, and having on the left Moyenneville, 
La-Neuville, Promleroy, and Angiviller, we arrive 
at the village and post-house of Gournay-sur- 
Aronde. 

Proceeding on our journey, we pass Neufoy on 
the left, descend a hill, cross a small stream, and 
have the river Somme d'Or on the right, and 
crossing a little hill, about a mile from the end of 
a wood we enter Saint-Maur. Then passing a 
long and steep hill, and the wood of Taulle, and 
leaving Ressons on the right, we arrive opposite the 
chateau of Sechelles ; and leaving Bellicourt on 
the right, and Taulle on the left, we reach 
Cuvilly. 

Having changed horses, and passing Mortemer 
on the left, and Great and Little Blermont on the 
right, we enter Orville ; and proceeding thence, 
crossing a bridge, having Hainviller on the left, 
then passing a valley and a bridge, and skirting 
the wood of Blermont on the right, we arrive at 
Conchy-les-Pots. 

Leaving this place we soon reach Plessier-Sairjt- 
Nicaise ; then having Boulogne on the left, we 
enter some woods opposite Vaussoir, and passing 
Meziere-le-Bus on the left, and Cessier and Cra- 
peau-Mesnil on the right, we enter Tilloloy. 
Next skirting the park of Tilloloy, going by Beu- 
vraines on the left, passing some warrens, having 



324 ROYE. £1 AN COURT, &C, 



Amy on the right, the woods and villages of 
Popincourt and Dancourt on the left, and Ver- 
pillieres on the right • then passing near Lancourt, 
■with Royeglise, and a little farther off, Champien 
on the right, and St. Mard on the left, and after- 
wards St. Georges on the right, and then traversing 
the suburb of St. Gilles, and crossing the river 
Avre, we arrive at Roye. 

Roye contains 3,000 inhabitants. Some mineral 
waters have been discovered here which are much 
extolled. The principal employment is knitting, 
and weaving w r orsted stockings, and spinning cotton 
thread. 

The biscuits of Roye are much admired, and 
the ramparts afford a delightful promenade. 

On quitting Roye we pass through the suburb of 
St. Pierre, and crossing a valley and a bridge, 
leaving Carrepuis on the right, Goyencourt and 
Damery on the left, Marche-la-Louarde on the 
right, Fresnoy-les-Roye on the left, Tilloy, Reton- 
viller, and Cremery, on the right, and La Cha- 
vette on the left, w : e reach Liancourt. Then passing 
along the edge of the wood of Liancourt, leaving 
Herely on the right, Hattencourt, Fransart, Chateau 
Bleu, and Fouquecourt, on the left, and Estalon 
on the right, we arrive at Fonches. 

Crossing the bridge, "sve next visit Fonchette ; 
then leaving Punchy, Hallus, Chilly, and Maure- 
court, successively on the left, and Curchy on the 
right, passing nearNesle and Puzeau, and leaving 
Petit-Liancourt and Bersaucourt on the right, we 
reach Omiecourt-le-Mont-Royard. Proceeding 
thence, and leaving Pertain on the right, and 



PERONNE. 



825 



Saint-Leger on the left, crossing a wood and val- 
ley, and leaving Licourt on the right at the entrance 
of a wood, and Pressoir on the left, we come to 
Marche-le-Pot. 

Quitting Marche-le-Pot, passing through an 
avenue of trees, passing Gomiecourt and Ablin- 
court on the left, and the wood and village of 
Misery on the right, and crossing a bridge and a 
valley, we enter Mazancourt. Then leaving Fres- 
nes, Berny, Deniecourt, and Soyecourt, on the 
left, crossing a wood and a bridge, passing Horgny 
on the left, and Briot, Saint-Christ, Athis, and 
Ennemain, on the right, we reach Villers-Car- 
bonnel. Proceeding hence, and having Belloy on 
the left, and Brie-sur-Somme on the right, we 
discover Peronne at a distance. Then passing a 
valley and a bridge, going near Etrepigny, leaving 
Berleux on the left, crossing a rivulet, passing 
Lamire and Mesnil-Bruntel on the right, crossing 
the canal, leaving La Pellette and Bayencourt on 
the right, and crossing the Somme, we enter Pe- 
ronne by the gate of Paris. 

Peronne is strongly fortified, and nearly sur- 
rounded by marshes. Charles the Simple was 
imprisoned in the castle, and ended his days there 
in a wretched manner. Louis XI. was detained in 
the fortress by the Duke of Burgundy, until he 
consented to ratify a disadvantageous treaty. It 
has some manufactories of linen, cotton, cambric, 
and paper, and contains 3,800 inhabitants. It 
is said to possess a peculiar and excellent breed of 
mastiff dogs. 

Peronne was denominated La Pucellc, or the 
2f 



PERONNE, &C, 



virgin fortress, in consequence of its never having 
been taken, although very frequently besieged. In 
the short campaign of 1815, it forfeited its claim 
to this honourable title. After the fatal battle of 
Waterloo it was garrisoned by some battalions of 
the national guard. When the English army ad- 
vanced towards Paris, an officer of the engineers 
was despatched to summon the fortress of Peronne. 
By strange and most culpable neglect he was ad- 
mitted into the fortifications without being previ- 
ously blind-folded. Making the best use of the 
unexpected advantage that was afforded him, he 
discovered that one of the outworks presented some 
weak points, and, on his return, proposed to 
attempt it by escalade. The proposal was adopted. 
He headed the scaling party, and the virgin-for- 
tress was soon carried. 

We quit Peronne by the gate of Arras, and pass- 
ing through the suburb of Bretaine, leave Doight 
on the right, and cross a valley and a bridge ; 
then traversing a long hill, leaving Bussu on the 
right, and Mont-Saint Quentin and Aleines on the 
left, and skirting the wood of Bussu, we enjoy 
a beautiful prospect. Afterwards leaving Drien- 
court, Templeux-la-Fosse, Longavenne, and Vil- 
lers-Faucon, on the right, passing by the wood of 
Seve, and having Moislains to the left, passing 
between the woods of De-la-Ville and Pinelle, and 
leaving Hescourt-le-Bas and Lieramont on the 
right, we approach Murlu, ; ,and can perceive Saint 
Quentin at a distance to the s.E. A noble prospect 
is here presented to us. Now leaving Murlu at a 
little distance, and Manancourt and Etricourt on 



FINS.— BONAVY. — §UESNEL, &C. 327 



the left, and, after a steep hill, Sorel and Heudi- 
court on the right, we arrive at Fins. 

Having changed horses at Fins, we cross a val- 
ley, ascend a steep hill, skirt thew r ood of Metz-en- 
Couture, then traverse a considerable chain of 
mountains, and after several hills and valleys, 
pass Ribecourt and Flesquiers to the left. We 
then cross several other little hills and valleys, and 
through an avenue of trees, and leaving Honne- 
court, Vendhuille, where the subterranean canal 
of St, Quentin begins, and Banteux-sur-FEscaut 
on the right, we arrive at Bonavy. 

The traveller should pause at Vendhuille, and 
visit the tunnel of the canal. It extends to the in- 
credible length of nearly four miles and a half un 
der ground. The history of inland navigation 
scarcely affords a more extraordinary or interest- 
ing undertaking. The diligence passes near one 
end of the tunnel, and will readily wait a short 
time while the stranger enters the stupendous ex- 
cavation. The canal unites the river Somme to 
the Scheldt, and was completed by Napoleon. 

Near Bonavy is the ancient abbey of Vaucelles* 
The wood that surrounds it, and the canal which 
flows under its walls, render its situation exceed* 
ingly pleasant. 

Leaving Bonavy, and passing near the wood of 
Laleau, we come to Quesnel. Then ascending a 
long hill, and leaving the avenue that leads to 
Crevecoeur on the right, we cross the Scheldt, and 
arrive at Manieres. Afterwards climbing a steep 
ascent, passing Marcoing and Flesquieres on the 
left, and Rumilly on the right, crossing the wood 
2 f 2 



328 



CAMBRAY. 



of St. Sepulchre, and then a hill and valley, 
going by the hotel of Rumilly, passing Noyelle on 
the left, and Florenville and bercnville on the right, 
then Praille on the left, and Avoin on the right, 
and traversing the suburb of St. Sepulchre, we 
enter Cambray by the bridge and gate of St. Sepul- 
chre. 

Cambray was a Roman colony, and is of such 
antiquity that many historians attribute its founda- 
tion to Camber, king of the Sicambri, who lived 
in the time of Servius Tullius, the sixth king of 
Rome. The metropolitan church was a noble 
specimen of ancient architecture, but it was de- 
stroyed during the Revolution; and the beautiful 
tower which was then spared was overthrown by a 
hurricane in ISO*). The streets of Cambray are 
well built, and the great square is much admired. 
The town-hall is of modern architecture, and very 
magnificent. The citadel, placed on an eminence, 
has a grand appearance. The pyramidical steeple 
of the great church is a curious object. Cambray 
has long been the head-quarters of the Duke of 
Wellington, as commander-in-chief of the allied 
army which occupies the French frontiers. 

Cambray is an archbishop s see, and was ho- 
noured by the residence of the immortal Fenelon. 
The remains of this great man were dug out of the 
ruins of the metropolitan church, and are pre- 
served in the oratory of the hospital for the edu- 
cation of poor girls. The tomb of Archbishop 
Vanderburch, in the same oratory, is sumptuous 
and elegant. 

Before the Revolution, Cambray contained 



CAMBRAY. 



329 



less than twelve churches. Only two of these 
remain, and they are robbed of their principal 
ornaments. The others are either entirely demo- 
lished, or perverted to some profane use. 

The commerce of Cambray and its environs 
must always be prosperous, because it is princi- 
pally founded on the produce of the soil. Abun- 
dance of corn, flax, hemp, tobacco, hops, and 
chamomile, are grown in the neighbourhood. 
There are likewise manufactories of cloth, linen, 
cambric (which takes its name from this town), 
lace, gauze, tapestry, leather, nails, thread, oil, 
beer, geneva, and rope. The number of inha- 
bitants is 14,800. Fairs of nine days each begin 
April 25th and October 27th. 

The face of the country now begins to change, 
and to the straight roads, the clipped elms, and to 
the boundless plains, over which the traveller has 
journeyed almost the whole way from Paris, and 
on which for many a mile a human habitation 
did not present itself, succeed a thickly-wooded 
soil, most highly cultivated, with innumerable 
village-spires peeping above the trees in every 
direction. 

As he approaches the Belgic frontier, the tourist 
will begin to be annoyed by the douaniers, or cus- 
tom-house officers, who at almost every post, and 
every toll-gate will stop and examine his baggage. 
These gentlemen are usually sufficiently obliging, 
unless the stranger provoke a strict investigation, 
or unnecessary delay by his petulance and ill- 
humour. For a very trifling sum he may escape 
much of this inconvenience. The officer at the 
2*3 



S30 



BOUCHAIN. 



first custom-house near the frontiers, will, for a 
franc or two, plumb, or affix the official seal on 
the portmanteau. A cord is drawn tightly round 
it, the end of which is passed through a piece of 
lead, and this is stamped with the arms of the 
custom-house. A certificate is likewise given, 
that this w as affixed by an officer duly authorized. 
The traveller must shew this whenever a douanier 
appears, and he will be permitted to pass on 
without trouble or delay. 

We quit Cambray by the gate of Notre Dame, 
and going through an avenue of trees, and passing 
by some quarries of white stone, arrive at Escau- 
d'CEuvres. Then leaving Moranchies, Ramillies, 
and Cuvilliers, on the left, Cagnoncle on the right, 
Esward, Thun-l'Eveque, and Thun Saint Martin 
on the right, we pass an hotel, and leaving Naves, 
Riew de Cambresis, and Avesnes on the right, 
and crossing a valley, we reach Jouy. We next 
cross the river Herclain, pass the church of Riew, 
leave Estrun, and a wood containing an encamp- 
ment of Caesar, on the left, cross a little hill and 
avenue, leave Avesnes-le-Sec' on the right, and 
Hordaing and Wavrechin on the left, then pro- 
ceeding between the valley and the river Cense, 
we pass the barrier, and along the glacis of Bou- 
chain. 

Bouchain is a pretty, well-fortified town, 
built by Pepin the Short, in commemoration of a 
victory which he gained in the neighbourhood, 
over Thierry, king of the Goths. 

Departing from Bouchain, and crossing a val- 
ley, we leave Saulchoir, Mastaing, Agincourt, 



VALENCIENNES. 



331 



(a name never to be forgotten in the annals 1 of Bri- 
tish warfare,) and Mont-de-Cantin, on the left, 
Noyelle and Ourche on the right, then Roeult, 
Abscon, Neuville, Escaudin, and Hellesmes, on 
the left, and crossing a valley, arrive at Douchy. 
Then crossing the river Selles, and the avenue of 
the wood of Denain, a beautiful prospect presents 
itself, and passing Wavrechin on the left, and 
crossing the canal of Cambray, and afterwards 
another bridge, and some marshy ground, we 
reach Rouvegny. Afterwards leaving on the right 
Rouvy, Thijant, and Monchaux in the valley 
through which runs the Escaillon, we enjoy ano- 
ther delightful prospect, and passing Oisy and 
Aubry on the left, enter Herin. Quitting this 
place we have another fine view, and leaving 
Maing, Trith-Saint-Leger, and Famars, on the 
right, and passing by Saint Leger, and through 
the suburb of Notre Dame, we enter Valencien- 
nes over a bridge across the Scheldt. 

The situation of Valenciennes is uncom- 
monly pleasant. The foundation of this city is 
attributed to the Emperor Valentin i an I., in the 
year 867. To people it he resorted to the mea- 
sures which Romulus had employed, and offered 
an asylum to all who fled from their creditors, or 
from the vengeance of the law. 

At a little distance, the spires are seen rising 
above the houses, and not one appearance of forti- 
fication can be discerned; but, on a nearer ap- 
proach, the high walls, the deep ditches, and the 
massive gates, convey an idea of almost impregna- 
ble strength. Nature and Art have indeed con- 



332 



VALENCIENNES, &C. 



spired to render it one of the strongest places on 
the frontiers. The siege which it underwent at 
the commencement of the revolutionary war will 
not soon be forgotten. The place at which the 
English forced their entrance is shewn to the tra- 
veller, and the impressions of the balls are not yet 
effaced. The citadel was constructed by the cele- 
brated Vauban. 

The field of battle of Famars is seen from the 
ramparts, and the monument erected to the me- 
mory of General Dampierre. Valenciennes was 
the birth-place of the historian Froissard, and the 
painter Wateau. 

The streets are narrow, crooked, and ill built, 
and altogether different from those of Cambray. 
The grand square is very handsome. The women 
are said to be remarkably pretty ; indeed this is the 
general character of the females of the frontier 
towns. 

Valenciennes has some celebrated manufactories 
of cambric and lace. Much linen, gauze, and 
porcelain, are likewise made here. It contains 
1 8,000 inhabitants: A fair of ten days begins on 
September 8th. 

The theatre, and the promenade of Napoleon 
Square, are worth visiting. 

The Christian is an excellent inn, and Madame 
G onion's is the best coffee-house. 

Leaving Valenciennes by the gate of Mons, we 
pass through Lambert, Saint Sauve, Onnaing, 
and Quarouble ; then having Wich on the left, 
skirting the wood of Anbelize, leaving Quevrechin 
on the right, and crossing the bridge of Corbeau, 



QUIEVRAIN. — BOUSSXJ. 



335 



and afterwards the river Hougneaux, we arrive at 
Quievrain. This neighbourhood contains many 
coal-mines of excellent quality. 

After climbing and soon afterwards descending 
a hill, crossing a river, and presently a second 
bridge, having Haynin on the left, going near 
Dour, passing some coal-mines, and through the 
wood of Beaugis, we reach Boussu. 

Having changed horses, and passed through 
Hornu, leaving some coal-mines on the right, 
crossing a river, and having Framerie on the right, 
we visit Queregnon ; then leaving Paturages on the 
right, and crossing a bridge, we enter Jemappes, 
celebrated for the victory of General Dumourier 
over the Austrians in 1792. Leaving Cuesmes 
on the right, we next arrive at La Motte. A large 
sluice is now opposite to us. Crossing theTreulle, 
leaving Saint Ghislain on the left, passing many 
country-houses and beautiful walks, we enter Mons 
by the gate of France. 

The city of Mons, and the route to Brussels, 
have already been described in page 285. 



THE END. 



INDEX 



A A (river of), 173 

Abcou, 168 

Ablincourt, 325 

Abscon, 331 

Adeghem, 301 

Affinghem, 288 

Agincourt, 331 

Ahin, 262 

Aigneaux, 257 

Aix-la-Chapelle, formerly an 
imperial city, town-hall, 
&c.,247- 
The great church, tomb of 

Charlemagne, 248 ' 
Relics of superstition ex- 
hibited to strangers, 249 
Streets, view of the city, 
surrounding sceuery,250 
Warm baths, seasons for 
frequenting the baths, 
expense of bathing, &c, 
251 

Population, manufactures, 
benevolent institutions, 
252 

Alblasserdam, 193 
Aleines, 326 
Alkmaar, 161 
Almelo, 185 

Alne (ruins of the abbey of) 
270 

Alost (commerce, church 
with paintings by Ru- 
bens), 288 



Alphen (village of), 157 
Altenhofen, 281 
Ambi, 246 

Ameland (island of), 163 
Amerongen, 191 
Amersfoort, 172 
Amsterdam (route to) from 
Helvoetsluys, 95 

Vessels to, 191 

Canals, 139 

Views of Amsterdam, 140* 

Extent & population, stadt- 
house, public walks, &c, 
the palace, paintings and 
sculpture, 141 

Mode of drawing money 
from the bank, 142 

Town-hall, post-office, re- 
marks on the churches, 
143 

Theatres,German, Italian ? 
and Dutch, 144 

The rondeel, or vauxhall fl 
spiel-houses, 145 

Artifices to decoy unfor- 
tunate girls, 146 

Spiel-house, frequented by 
merchants, their wives 
and daughters, 147 

Rasp-house, or house of 
correction, the govern- 
ment of the Netherlands 
sparing of the lives of its 
subjects, 148 



336 



INDEX, 



Manner in which prisoners 
who are idle are obliged 
to work at the pumps — 
laws for husbands and 
wives, 149 

Public buildings, 150 

Naval school, Lees-mu- 
seum, library, 151 

Botanic garden, the ex- 
change, carriages, &c, 
152 

Principal inns, coaches, 
and boats, gates of Am- 
sterdam closed at half- 
past four in winter, &c, 
153 

Amy, 324 

Anb£lize, 332 

Anderlech, 287 

Andernach, 194 

Andoy, 284 

Angiviller, 323 

Anhee, 266 

Annevoye, 266 

Antwerp, conveyance to, 
from Rotterdam, 101 

Anvers or Antwerp (general 
description of), popula- 
tion, arms of Antwerp, 
207 

Buildings, 208 

Appearance of the city, 209 

The harbour, docks, cita- 
del, &c. 210 

Cathedral, 211 

Churches, 213 

Exchange at Antwerp, 214 

Town-house, public li- 
brary, academy of the 
Fine Arts, 215 

Private collections of pic- 



tures, manufactories of 

Antwerp, 216 
Principal inns, road to 

Amsterdam, canal from 

Antwerp to Brussels,217 
Appingedam, 182 
Arbre, 309 
Arcy, 322 
Ardenberg, 304 
Ardenne, 263 
Arlon, 281 
Arnheim, 184—187 
Arnheim, description of the 

place, &c. 188 
Arnemuiden, 113 
Arnouville, 319 
Arschot, 236 
Arsonval, 323 
Arum, 179 

Asbrock (valley and marsh 

of), 238 
Assche, 288 
Assebrouck, 301 
Assen, 184 
Assensis, 281 
Assese, 284 
Ath, 285, 309 

Town-hall, arsenal, cha- 
teau de Bellceuil, 309 
Athis, 325 
Attert, 281 
Attre, 309 
Aubry, 331 
Aunay, 261 
Aven Capelle, 315 
Avesnes, 330 
Avesnes-le-Sec, 330 
Avoin, 328 
Avrigny, 322 
Axel, 297 
^ Aye, 284 



INDEX. 



337 



Baar, 138 
Bacveghen, 289 
Bailleul, 311 
Bailleul-le-Sec, 322 
Balagny, 321 
Banteux-sur l'Escaut, 327 
Barbery, 321 
Barcy, 320 
Bariseul, 309 
Barnich, 281 
Basse-Oha, 262 
Basse-Marlange (forest of), 
266 

Bastonge, 282 
Baubigny, 3J8 
Bauffe, 308 
Bautersem, 236 
Bay en court, 3-25 
Beaugis, 333 
Beaurepaire, 322 
Becclaire,313 

Beck David (native of Arn- 
heim, singular anecdote), 
188 

Beckerzele, 288 
Beek-karpsel, 164 
Beemster, 165 
Begards, 287 
Belau, 239 
Belleville, 318 
Bellincourt, 322 
Belloy, 325 
Bemelem, 246 
Bentheim, 186 
Berckem, 288 
Beregal, 286 
Berg, 240—246 
Bergen-op-Zoom (fortifica- 
tions of, population, streets 
i and squares, church of St. 



Gertrude, inns, convey- 
ances), 206. 

Berghem, 218 

Berkel (conflux with the 
Yssel), 186, 187 

Berkel, 202 

Berleux, 325 

Bersaucourt, 324 

Bertrange, 280 

Beurt-schippen (mode of tra- 
velling by the), 109 

Beusekom, 191 

Beveland (sand banks of), 
206 

Beveren, 314 

Beverwyke, 160 

Beuvraines, 323 

Beyne, 257 

Beyssem, 234 

Biebosch, 205 

Biervleit,inundation,&c.,297 

Bilstam, 255 

Binch, 271 

Bingaarden, 188 

Bioseghem, 312 

Blancmenil, 319 

Blermont, Great &Little,323 

Blincourt, 322 

Blockzyl, 177 

Blocshms, 187 

Bodange, 281 

Boemar (river of), 219 

Bonqueval, 319 

Rois-de-lihus, 322 

Bois-le 7 duc (population, in- 
undated in winter, church 
of St. John, town-hall, ma- 
nufactures), 201 

Bollebeke, 288 

Bolswaert, 179 
2o 



538 



INDEX. 



Bommel, or Bommelwaert, 
195, 196 

Bonavy, 327 

Bondy, 318 

Bonnert, 281 

Bonneuil, 319 

Bonsoit-sur-Haine, 271 

Boomspyk, 175 

Booskoop, 158 

Borkelo, or Berkeiot, 187 

Borsem, 244 

Borutte, 254 

Boschelie, 237 

Botey, 267 

Bouchain, 330 

Bouin, 218 

Boulogne, 323 

Boundaries of the Nether- 
lands, J 

Bourget, 319 

Bouorgnen, 266 

Bourquembrays, 310 

Bourtang (heath of), 182 

Bourbecq, 286 

Boussu, 333 

Bovershoven, 239 

Braambrugge, 168 

Braine, 286 

Braine-le-Comte, 286 

Brakel, 196 

Brande, 283 

Brantignies, 309 

Bray, 271 

Breuketen, 168 

Breda, 202—207 

Brenouille, 322 

Bretaine, 326 

Breveren, 314 

Brevoort, 189 

Brielen, 313 

Brie-sur Somme, 325 

Brill (capital oft e island of 



Voorn, the harbour, po- 
pulation, &c, 94 
Coaches and boats to Rot- 
terdam, 95 
Brill to Rotterdam by Water, 
96 

Brioi, 325 

Broek, or Brock, 155 

Bronkhorst, 188 

Browershaven, 115 

Brucum, 287 

Brugeleuc, 309 

Bruges (canal of), 300 

Bruges, formerly the resi- 
dence of the counts of 
Flanders, public build- 
ings, 301 
Canals and manufactures, 
town-hall, church of No- 
tre Dame, 302 
Church of St. Salvador, 
church of Jerusalem, con- 
vent of English nuns, 
&c. 303 
Decimal Arithmetic, said 
to have been invented at 
Bruges, hotels, fairs, &c, 
304 

Bruges and Ostend, mode 
of travelling between, 
304 

Brummen, 188 

Brussels, (description of town- 
hall), situation, cheap- 
ness of provisions, 225 
Great market-place, foun- 
tains, halls of trading 
companies, &c, church 
of St. Gudule, 226 
Curious pulpit, paintings & 
sculpture, church of Sab- 
Ion, principal theatre, 227 



INDEX. 



339 



St. Michael's square, the 
park, imperial court, 228 

Population, manufactures, 
inns, hotels, &c, furnish- 
ed lodgings,markets, &c 
229 

Visit to Waterloo, 230 
Situation of the British 
troops, 232, 233 
Brussels to Ostend, route 
from, 287 



Brustem, 23.9 
Bruyere, 286 
Buren, 197 

Burgh, on the Texel, 163 
Burnon, 281 
Burnot river, 266 
Bussu, 326 

Butterfliet, on the Meuse^ 
206 

Buyssinghem, 287 



C. 



Cagnoncle, 330 
Calettes,311 

Cambray, antiquity, town- 
hall, citadel, head quar- 
ters of the duke of Wel- 
lington, Fenelon (Arch- 
bishop), 323 
Commerce, manufactures, 
population, face of the 
country, douaniers, 329 

Cambron-Saint-Vincent, 309 

Campen, 175 

Campenhoffe, 223 

Camperdown, 162 

Carrepuis, 324 

Cassel, 246 

Cateau, 285 

Catoire, 309 

Cense, 330 

Cerny, 325 

Cessier, 323 

Chamant, 321 

Champien, 324 

Champlatreux, 321 

Champion, 283 

Chantilly (forest of), 320 

Chapelle-Herlaymont 271 



Charleroi, 233 

Charleroy, population, ma- 
nufactures, &c. 269 
Charneux, 283 
Chateau Bleu, 324 
Chatenay, 320 
Chaumont, 281 
Chenc£, 257 
Cheneque, 281 
Chenevieres, 320 
Chievres, 309 
Chilly, 324 
Choisy, 322 
Choquier, 261 
Ciney, 267, 284 
Clairfontaine, 281 
Cleneux, 255 
Clermont, 255 
Cleves, 189 

Clocks in Belgium, 104 
Cobbeghem, 288 
Cocyghem,3ll 
Coevorden, 184 
Coins, 81 
Collrim, 181 
Cologne, 189 
Comaustcr, 278 
2 G 2 



340 



INDEX. 



Commerce of the Nether- 
lands, 67 

Compiegne (forest of) , 323 

Conchy-les-Pots, 323 

Coningsheim, 239 

Constitution & Government 
of the Netherlands, 30 

Conticht, 219 

Corbeek-Overloo, 236 

Coriovallum, 246 

Corriere, 284 

Cortenberg, 234 

Coudray, 319 

Coudray Wood, 320 

Coulbray, 285 

Coupiere, 2^0 

Courcelles, 267 



Courteuil, 320 

C mrtrav, manufactures, &c« 
311 

Cran (river), 319 
Cranheim, 234 
Crapeau-Mesnil, 32 
Cremery, 324 
Crevecceur, 202, 266, 318 
Crocremont, 286 
Croix de Bourgoyne, 309 
Crombeecke, 314 
Cuesmes, 333 

Culenbourg, orKuilenbourg, 
191 

Curcby, 324 
Cuvilliers, 330 
Cuvilly, 323 



D. 



Damery, 324 

Damme (canal of), 300 

Damster Deep (canal of), 182 

Dave, 284 

De-Bilt, 172 

Deiffelt, 278 

Delden, 185, 186 

Delft, conveyance to, from 
Rotterdam, 101 

Delft (town of), 1161, 95 

Delft, conveyance from, to 
Leyden, Maaysluys, Am- 
sterdam, &c. 118 

Delftshaven, near Rotter- 
dam, 97 

Oelfzil, 181, 182 

Delsen, 184 

Dender (river), 309 

Dendermonde, sustained se- 
veral sieges, population, 
&c , 288 



Deniecourt, 325 
Deutekom, 189 
Deutichem, 187, 189 
Deventer, 185, 186, 187, 
189 

Diekirch, 278 
Dieren, 188 

Diest, or the Demer, 243 
Dievenbrug, 184 
Diligence, 103 
Dilighem, 288 
Dilsen, 244 

Dinant, population, trade, 

town-hall, 266 
Directions to Travellers, 84 
Dixmude, 314 
Doesburg, 187, 188, 189 
Doight, 326 
Dokkum, 180, 181 
Dollart Bay, 182 
Domber^, 113 



INDEX. 



341 



Dort, or Dordrecht, (descrip- 
tion of), 191, 193, 195 
Conveyance to, from Rot- 
terdam, 101 

Dottignies, 311 

Douchy, 331 

Dour, 333 

Drancourt, 322, 324 

Dremuel, 196 



Driencourt, 326 
Dronghem, 300 
Druten, 197 
Dumeldange, 278 
Dunkirk to Ostend, by 

Fumes, 314 
Dutch Inns, 92 
Duyveland (island of), 114 
Dykes, canals aud rivers, 72 



East Friesland (provu 
176 

Echternach, 279 
Eck, 191 
Eclen, 245 
Ecloo, 301 

Edam, on the Ee, 165 
Eelde, 184 
Eersels, 202 
Eggewaerts, 315 
Eibergeri", 187 
Eich, 278 
gibing, 175 
Elburg, 174 
Elesmont, 287 
Elten, 189 
Elverdinghe, 314 
Embden, 181, 182 
Emmerick, 187, 189 
Emptine, 284 
Emptinalle, 284 
Ems, 172 

Ems (mouth of), 182 

Endricourt, 309 

Enghein, 285 

Palace, manufactures, 
pulation, &c. 286 

Engis, 261 



* Enkhuysen, 164 
Eunematu, 325 
Enschede, 186 
Epen, 246 
Epiais, 320 
Eppeghen, 223 
Erbault, 308 
Erbisaul, 308 
Erembetleghem, 288 
Erneuville, 283 
Erondeghem, 289 
Erpe, 289 
Erpent, 263, 284 
Erps, 234 
Escaillon, 331 
Escau d'CEuvres, 330 
Escaudin, 331 
Esden, 244 
Espierre, 311 
Esquelmes, 311 
Essingham-sur -Serine, 287 
Estalon, 324 
Estines-au-Val, 271 
Estr^e-saint-Dennis, 322 
Estrun, 330 
U Esward, 330 
Etaimbourg, 311 
Etrepigny, 325 
2o3 



342 



INDEX- 



Etricourt, 326 
Ettelgem, 305 
Etter, 281 
Eupen, 255 



Evere, 223, 234 
Evergheim, 301 
Exchange at Rotterdam, ! 
Eyndhoven, 201 



Falle, 240 
Famars,33l 
Fauquemont, 246 
Fenneville, 283 
Fins, 327 
Fischback, 278 
Flaarding, 96 
Flamalle, 261 
Fiainisoul, 282 
Fiamierge, 283 
Fl mne, 261 
Flawinne, 267 
Fleron, 257 
Flesquiers, 327 
Fleurines, 321 

Fleurus (plains of), battle, 
anecdote of Blucher, 268 

Flion, 263 

Florae, 284 

Florenville, 328 

Flushing (population, har- 
bour and canal, Stadt- 
house, palace built by 
William I., taken by the 
English in 1809), 112 



Folz, 266 

Fon ches, 324 

Fonchette, 324 

Fontainel' Eveque, bad roads 

but beautiful prospects, 

269 

Foutenay-les-Louvres, 320 

Fontenoy, 310 

For£t, 287 

Fouquecourt, 324 

Framerie, 333 

Fraucieres (wood of), 322 

Franeker, 180 

Frankfort, 189 

Fransart, 324 

Frassem, 281 

Fresnel (wood of), 322 

Fresnes, 325 

Fresnoy-les-Royc, 324 

Fronte, 283 

Froyennes, 311 

Furnes, 314 

Situation, population, com- 
merce, 6c c. 314 



G. 



Ganelon (mountain of), 322 
Garges, 319 
Gauzain, 310 
Gedonsark, 285 
Gelderland, 182 
Gelzinne, 267 

Gemappe, or Genappe, 230, 

272 



Gembloux, '266 
Genemuiden, 175 
Genette, or la Genette, S86 
Gentbrugge, 289 
Gentrode, 289 
Geronsart, 284 
Gertruydenberg, 205 
Gestene, 314 



INDEX. 



343 



€ette (river of), 238 
Gheluwe, 313 

Ghent, or Gand, its foun- 
dation, attack by the 
Danes, 289 

Population, commerce, 
produce, &c. 290 

Cathedral of St. Bouvon, 
Paintings, &c. 291 

Church of St. Michael, 
nunnery, town-hall, aca- 
demy, works of Flemish 
artists, 292 

Public library, botanic gar- 
den, college, 293 

John of Gaunt, wars in 
Flanders, 294 

Bishop of Ghent impri- 
soned by Napoleon, re- 
sidence of the nobility, 
295 

Expense of living at Ghent, 
fairs, &c. 296 
Ghent to Bruges, convey* 
ances, &c. by water, ac- 
commodation on board, 
299 

Conveyance by land, 300 
Ghistel (post-house of), 305, 
315 

Goes, or Ter-Goes, in South 

Beveland, 113 
Goetzengen* 231 
Gonnesse, 319 
Goor, 186 
Gooring, 207 
Gorcum, 191 



Goree (island of), 115 
Gorniecourt, 325 
Goraichem, or Gorcum, 195 
Gorssel, 186 
Gouda, 158, 192, 198 
Gouda, conveyance to, from 

Rotterdam, 101, 195 
Gouderak, 158 
Gournay-sur-Aronde, 323 
Goussainville, 319 
Goyencourt, 324 
Grace, 261 
Grammont, 309 
Grand Beygardem, 288 
Grand Drancy, 318 
Grand Lensin, 284 
Grandru, 281 
Grave, 200 
Gremi, 244 
G re ven m a ch c ren , 279 
Grivegne, 257 
Groes-Helderen, 240 
Groet, 162 

Grol, or Groenlo, 187 
Groningen, 180 (description 

of), 181,182 
Groningen Deep, 181 
Groot-Loon, 239 
Grootzelmet, 239 
Grosloy, 319 
Grotzundert, 207 
Grunde, 237 
Gulpen,246 
Gutsenhovcn, 238 
Gysbeck, 188 
Gysenzeele, 289 



H. 

Haarlem, 133 | population, fine church, 

Extent, situation, &c. 133 | museums, house of 



344 



INDEX. 



Costor the inventor of 
printing, statue of Cos- 
tor, 134 

Haarlem celebrated for 
flowers, wood of Haar- 
lem, Hartekamp, where 
Linnaeus formed his 
system, 135 

Besieged by the Spaniards, 
136 

Principal inns, 133 
Conveyance to Amster- 
dam, 139 

Haarlem meer, 133 

Hacken, 245 

Haeckdenover, 237 

Haed, 237 

Hage, 207 

Hagen, 281 

Hague (route to), 95 

Hague (the), 119, 191 

Magnificent palaces, situ- 
ation, the Vyverburg 
canals, old palace, mu- 
seum of natural history, 
minerals, 119 
% New palace, principal resi 
dence of the king, 120 

Hame, St. Paul, 271 

Hainviller, 323 

Hal, 287 

Halert. 200 

Halle, 238 

Hallette (forest of), 321 
Hallus, 324 
Halmael, 238 
Halven-Galge, 223 
Harderwyk, 174, 187, 189 
Hardenberg, 184 
Hardinveld, 195 
Harlingen, 179 
Hasselt, 175, 243 



Hattem, 173 

Hattencourt, 324 

Haye-du-Comte, 285 

Hayum, 333 

Heer, 246 

Heerden, 173 

Heerenberg, 189 

Hees, 197 

Heesel, 200 

Hein, 197 

Helder (the), 162 

Helder, voyage from, to 

Amsterdam, 163 
Hellesmes, 331 
Helmdingen, 278 
Helmont, 201 

Helvoetsluys, arrival at, 89 
Helvoetsiuys to the Brill, 95 
Hememberg (hill of), 190 
Hendicourt, 327 
Henenmont, 266 
Heneviller, 322 
Hengelo, 186 
Henis, 240 
Hennuieres, 286 
Henri-Chapelle, 255 
Heppener, 245 
Herbach, 286 
Herbemont, 267 
Herbeumont, 283 
Herck (river), 239 
Herclain, 330 
Herderen, 240 
Herely, 324 
Hergenriet, 255 
Herin, 331 

Heristal, on the Meuse, 25$ 
Hermal, 261 
Herv£, 255 
Herwynem, 196 
Hescourt-la-Bas, 326 
Heughem, 246 



INDEX. 



345 



Heusden, 205, 289 
Heylig-Bloed, 219 
Hierde, 175 
Hilvarenbeck, 201 
Hinlopen, or Hinderlopen, 

176 
Hiren, 239 

History of the Netherlands, 2 
Hoasten, 196 
Hogne, 284 
Hologne, 261 
Hollange, 281 
Holset, or Helsart, 246 
Holson, 283 
Holt, 281 
Holtem, 246 
Holtzem, 280 
Hombeck, 223 
Homprez, 281 
Honnecourt, 327 
Hoorn, 163, 164, 165 



Hordaing, 330 
Horgny, 325 
Horim, 333 
Hoscher, 278 
Hosingen, 278 
Hotten, 185 
Houffalize, 282 
Hougoumont, 233 
Huessan, 188 
Hul (wood of), 266 
Hulst, 297 
Gothic church of St. Willi- 
brod, 297 
Hud, 266 

Hunse (river of), 184 
Huntem, 246 
Hupzel, 187 

Huy, romantic situation, 
manufactures, population, 
churches^ castle, 260, 261 

Hyon, 271 



I & J. 



Impe, 289 
Irchonwels, 309 
Iron Mountain, near Lou- 
vain, 235 
Isabella, 202 
Issenghien, 312 
Itern, 244 » 
Jaarsveld, 192 
Jabeke, 305 



Keer, 246 
Kelbergen, 188 
Kelluw, 196 
Keneburg, 116 



Jemappes, 333 
Jette, 288 

Joostland (island of), 113 

Josse, 257 

Journal, 283 

Jouy, 330 

Judoigne, 243 

Jupille, 257 

Jurbise, 308 



K. 



Ketel, 116 
Kimswerd, 179 
Kobner-Zwaag, 1 B 1 
Koedyk, 162 



346 



INDEX. 



Koer-Aatsberg, 193 
Koerich, 281 
•Kramer, 206 



Kranenberg, 184 
Krimssen, 193 
Kuynder, 177 



L. 



La Belle Alliance, 233 

La Chapelle, 309 

La Chapelle, near Paris, 318 

La Chapelle-en-Serval, 320 

La Chavette. 324 

Lachelle, 322 

La CourNeuve, 318 

Laerne, 289 

Lage-Zwaluw, 205 

La-Haye-Sainte, 230 

Lambert, 332 

Lamir6, 325 

La Motte, 333 

La Motte-d'Aacourt, 322 

La Neuville, 323 

Lancourt, 323 

Landen, 238 

Lanlaert, 244 

Lauwe, 312 

La Pellette, 325 

La Villette, 318 

Leau, 238 

Leek, 192 

Lede, 289 

Leegkerk, 181 

Leek, 164 

Leeuwarden to Stroobos, 180 
Leerdam, 191 
Leeuwen, 197 

Leeuwarden, routes to, thro' 
Meppel, Steenwyk, or Val- 
lenhoven, 176 , 

Leke, 315 

Lembreeck, 286 

Lenders, 246 

Lemmer, 177 



Leminer, 181 
Le Meusel, 320 
Lens, 308 
Lessinghe, 315 
Lessinghem, 305 
Leudon, 286 

Leuse (post-house of), 309 
Leuvenum, or Loo, 173 
Leves, 263 
Leval, 271 
Lexmont, 192 

Ley den, situation, city built 
on the ancient bed of the 
Rhine, 123 

Streets intersected by ca- 
nals, stone bridges, sew- 
ers, town -hall, 124 

Church of St. Peter,monu- 
ment of Boerhaave ; El- 
zevir the printer, and 
Gerard Dow the painter, 
natives of Ley den ; ma- 
nufacture's, 125 

Siege, 126, 127 

University, 129 

Fee of a Belgic physician 
and srirgeon, 130 

Botanic garden, cabinet of 
pictures, principal inns, 
passage boats, &c. 131 
Leyzel, 314 
Liancourt, 324 
Lichtenvoord and castle, 1 89 
Liege, situation, population, 
bridge of arches, 257 

Palace of the prince-bishop., 



TNDEX. 



34/ 



town-house, church of 
St. Paul, St. William's 
convent, manufactures, 

258 

Environs, best inns, con- 
veyances, 259 — 272 
Liege to Mons (route from), 
260 

Liege to Luxembourg (route 

from), 272 
Liempd, 201 
Lier, 218 
Lieramont, 326 
Ligne, 309 
Ligny, 267, 268 
Lihus (hamlet, post-house, 

and wood of), 322 
Limburg, 255, 256 
Linden, 190 
Lingen, 184 
Linne, 245 
Lintgen, 278 
Lischer, 281 
Livry, 318 
Locdt, 244 

Lochemsh-berg (mountain 

of), 187 
Lochem, 187 
Loenem, 168 



Loenen, 197 
Loenersloet, 168 
Loevestein, 196 
Lokerem, 299 
Lonaken, 244 
Longavenne, 326 
Lontzen, 255 
Looz, 239 
Loth, 287 

Louvain ( canal of) , 222 
Louvain (description of), 235 
Louveigne, 275 
Louvres, 319 

Manufactures, church, &c. 

319 

Lovendeghem, 300 
Lovenjoul, 236 
Loyers, 263 
Luer, 188 

Luggage for Travellers, 105 

Lumel, 246 

Lutkeport, 181 

Luxemburg, situation, popu- 
lation, commerce, &c. 278 

Luxemburg to Namur (route 
from), 280 

Luytanegem, 218 

Lys, 312 



M. 



Maarson, 168 t 

Maaslandsluys, 95 

Maaslandsluys to Rotter- 
dam, 95 

Maestri cht (description of), 
principal squares, 
churches, 240 
Manufactures, royal col- 
lege, ramparts, inns, 
conveyances to Liege, 
241 



Hill of St. Peter, 160,000 
different avenues, 242 
Maeswick, 244 
Maffle, 309 
Magdengem, 301 
Magnee, 257 
Maillen, 284 
Maing, 331 
Maisieres, 308 
Maizeret, 263 
Maldeghem, 301 



348 



Malle, 240 
Malmaison, 281 
Mamer, 280 
Manancourt, 326 
Maude-Saint- Etienne, 282 
Manieres, 327 
Mannekenswere, 315 
Manners and Customs, 93 
Marche, 283 
March£-le-Pot, 325 
Marche-en-Famene, 283 
Marche-la-Louarde, 324 
Marcke,312 
Marcoing, 327 
Mariakercke,300,305,315, 
Mariengrat, 246 
Marken (island of), 166 
Marliere (wood of), 266 
Marly -la- Ville, 320 
Marnach, 278 

Mars-Diep (passage of), 162 

Martelange, 281 

Maseyck, 245 

Mas iney-Saint- Jean, 285 

Masmy-Saint-Pierre, 285 

Massemein, 289 

Mastaing, 331 

Maurecourt, 324 

Mauregard, 320 

Maxhaven, 186 

Maydengen, 301 

Mazarcourt, 325 

Mazy, 267 

Mechelen, 244—246 

Mechlin, or Malines, situa- 
tion, cathedral, altar- 
piece by Vandyke, 219 
Churches, 200 
Convent of Beguins, po- 
pulation, manufactures, 
221 

Ramparts, principal inns, 



conduct of th* Spani- 
ards, 222 

Medenblik, 164 

Meire, 289 

Melin, 240 

Melle, 289 

Melshoven, 239 

Melzert, 281 

Menin, population, manu- 
factures, &c, 123, 312 

Mensil-Bruntel, 325 

Meppel, 176 

Merk (river of the) 202 

Merl, 286 

Mesieres, 285 

Mesvvin, 271 

Mettechoven, 239 

Metz-bouture f wood of). 327 

Meuden, 223 ' 

Meulebeeck, 288 

Meuse (river) 193 

M^ziere-le-Bus, 323 

Michelau, 278 

Middlebourg, 111— 195 

Mierendre, 300 

Misery (wood and village 
of), 325 

Mode of Travelling in Hol^ 
land, 101 

Moerkercke, 301 

Moerdyk, 205 

Mohuville, 284 

Moislans, 326 

Mollen, 288 

Molquern, 179 

Monchaux, 331 

Monchy (wood of), 323 

Mongressin, 320 

Monnikendam, 166 

Mons, ancient name Haa- 
nonia, 271 



INDEX. 



349 



Principal buildings, po- 
pulation, manufactures, 
ike. 272 
Mons to Brussels (route 

from), 235 
Mons, entrance by the gate 

of France, 333 
Mons to Ostend (route from), 
308 

Montaigne, 236 
Mont-de-Cantin,33l 
Montenaken, 240 
Montfaucon, 318 
Montfoort, 192 
Montford (river) 318 
Montmartre, 318 
Mont-Saint, 326 
Mont St. Aldergonde, 271 
Montzon, 255 



Moordrecht, 158 
Moranchies, 330 
Moresnit, 255 
Moriere (wood of) , 320 
Morsel, %l§ 
Mortemer, 323 
Mortfontaine, 320 
Moulbaix, 309 

Moulin (wood andabbev of), 
266 

Mouut St. Jean, 230 
Moyenneville, 323 
Moyvillers, 322 
Muiderberg, 167 
Mulcken, 239 
Munster, 184—187 
Murlu, 326 

Mussenburg (chateau of) ,2 Id 
Muyden, 167 



Naarden, visit to, from Am- 
sterdam, 167 
Naast, 235 
Namel, 261 

Namur, situation, castle, 
fortifications, cathedral, 
jesuits' church, 263 
Population, commerce, 

singular custom, 264 
Peter the Great, marshal 
Saxe and duke Albert, 
antiquity of Namur, 
sieges, &c, inns, con- 
veyances, 265 

Natam, 281 

Nattoie, 284 

Natural productions, and 
agriculture of the Nether- 
I lands, 60 
Naumeche, 263 



Neau, 256 
Neer-Asselt, 200 
Neerharen, 244 
Neerhespen, 238 
Neerwinden (plain of), 238 
Nerbutzelon, 236 
Nerin, 239 
Nesle, 324 
Nethe (river of), 219 
Neufchateau, 281 
Neufmoulin, 320 
Neufoy, 323 
Neuville, 261, 331 
Nianen, 191 
Nid, 281 
Niderbecke, 312 
Nieswiler, 246 
Nieumersluis, 168 
Nieuport, 305,315 

2 u 



350 



INDEX. 



Nieuport canal, 315 
Nieuvvekercken, 288 
Nieuwkerk, 181 
Nieuw-Lokkerland, 193 
Nieweschans, 182 
Niewland (village of), 113 
Niewport, 192 
Nimeguen, Nieumege, or 

Nimwegen, 183, 189, 196, 

197 

Nimeguen to Brussels (route 

from), 199 
Nimy, 285, 308 



Ninove, 312 
Nivelles, 230 

Nivelle, manufactures, John 

of Nivelle, &c. 286 
Noel-Nis, 311 
Noisy, 318 

Noorder (sand bank of), 162 
Nordhorn, 185 
North-Beveland, 114 
Nossenghem, 234 
Noves, 330 
Noyelle, 328,331 



o. 



Obliche, 244 

Oedelem, 301 

Oirschet, 201 

Oisy, 331 

Old Eibergen, 187 

Oldenbourg, 185 

Oldenzaal, the salia vetus of 

the Romans, 186 
Olm, 280 
Olst, 184 

Omiecourt-le-Mont-Royard, 

324 
Ommen, 174 
Onnaing, 332 
Oordeghem, 289 
Oostereinde, on the Texel, 

163 

Oosterhout, 197, 205 
Oostvleteren, 314 
Oostwinckel, 301 
Ootmarsum, 185 
Opharen, 244, 246 
Opperdoes, 164 
Op-ynen, 196 
Op-Zeland, 200 



Ormegnies, 309 
Orsmael, 238 
Ortenville, 283 
Orville, 323 
Ory, 320 
Osnabruck, 185 
Ostend, harbour, sluices, &c. 
305 

Sluices destroyed by the 
English, in 1798, town- 
hall, commerce, 306 

Population, principal inns, 
&c. 307 
Otterem, 289 

Oudenarde, manufactures; 

public buildings, and po- 
- pulation, 312 
Oudenburg, 305 
Oudenwater, 158, 192 
Ourche, 331 
Ourte, 283 
Ouwerkerk, 168 
Overschie (village of), 116 
Overtrespen, 238 
Overyssel, 182 



INDEX. 



351 



P. 



Pampas (the) , a sand-bank 
near Amsterdam, 166 

Pantin, 318 

Papendrecht, 193 

Papenhoven, 244 

Paris, route from, to Brus- 
sels, passports, &c. 316 

Parret, 281 

Partney, 246 

Paturages, 333 

Pays de Waes, face of the 
country, 297 

Pecq-sur-l'Escaut, 311 

Perl, 281 

Peronne, 271 

Peronne, situation, manu- 
factures, population, taken 
by the allies, 326 

Pertain, 324 

Perwyse, 315 

Pesken, 246 

Pessoulx, 284 

Peter the Great, in the dress 
of a sailor at Saardam, &c. 
154 

Peters-Ledeberg, 289 
Petit-Champion, 283 
Petit-Drancy, 318, 
Petit-Li ancourt, 324 
Petit-Sensin, 284 



Pipaix, 309 
Pirange, 239 
Plailly, 320 
Plassendocke, 315 
Plenthy, 223 
Plessis-Gassot, 319 
Plessis-Longueau, 322 
Plessier-Saint-Nicaies, 323 
Pontaim£, 320 
Pontarm£, 320 

Pont-Saint-Maxence, popu- 
lation, manufactures, &c. 
321 

Pont-Yblon, 319 
Popincourt, 324 
Poperinghe, 314 
Post-Brug, 123 
Praille, 328 
Pre-Saint-Gervais, 318 
Pressoir, 325 
Prinsenpoldar, 195 
Profondville, 266 
Promleroy, 323 
Proven, 314 
Puiseux, 320 
Punchy, 324 

Punctuality of the Diligence, 
104 

Purmerende, 165 
Puzeau, 324 



Quarebbe, 234 
Quarouble, 332 
Quennepoel, 219 
Queregnon, 333 



Q. 

Quesnel, 327 
Quevreghin, 332 
Quievrain, 333 

2 H 2 



352 



INDEX. 



Raincy (chateau of), 318 

Ramegnies, 31 1 

Ramillies, 330 

Rate of Travelling by the Di- 
ligence, 103 

Ravens way, 191 

Ravestein, 200 

Rebecque, 286 

Reckem, 244, 312 

Redel, 281 

Rein, 263 

Releghem, 288 

Religion of the Netherlands, 
26 

Remichampagne, 281 

Remy (wood of), 322 

Reppe, 263 

Ressay, 271 

Ressons, 323 

Retonviller, 324 

Roeult, 331 

Roeulx, 285 

Ehenen, 190 

Mentioned by Tacitus 
under the name of Grin- 
nes, 190, 1 

IV. me, before it enters the 
Netherlands, 190 

Rhode, £18 

Rhynland, 123 

Ribecourt, 327 

Rickel, 239 

Riero, 330 

Riero de Cambresis, 330 
Rieux, 322 

Road of Moscow, 1 62 
Robermont, 257 
Rochefort, 283 



Rokange, 95 
Rollinhen, 278 
Romainville, 318 
Romecroix, 210 
Roraze, 257 
Ronsele, 301 
Roosbeeck, 236 
Roozendael (garden of), 190 
Roozendael, 219 
Rost, 237 
Rostenne, 266 
Rothem, 244 
Rottentoul, 285 
Rotterdam (description of), 
extent, canals, the ex- 
change, 98 
Cathedral, private collec- 
tions of paintings, draw- 
bridges, 99 
Population, Erasmus, his 

statue in bronze, 105 
Port of Amsterdam, inns, 
100—191,192,193—195 
Conveyances, 101 
Rotterdam to Amsterdam, 
115 

Roumont, 283 

Rousbrugge, 314 

Route from Rotterdam to 

Amsterdam, through Gou- 

da, 157 
Route from Amsterdam to 

the Helder, 159 
Route from ' Amsterdam to 

Utrecht, 168 
Route from Utrecht to Gro- 

ningen. 171 
Route from Groningen t« 

Arnheim, 183 



INDEX. 



353 



Route from Nimeguen to 

Brussels, 199 
Route from Brussels to 

Maestricht, 233 
Route from Maestricht to 

Ruremoude, 243 
Route from Maestricht thro' 

Aix-la-Chapelle to Liege, 

245 

Route from Helvoetsluys to 

Amsterdam, 95 
Route from Nimeguen to 

Brussels, 192 
Route from Liege to Mons, 

260 

Route from Liege to Luxem- 
bourg, 272 

Route from Luxembourg to 
Namur, 280 

Route from Mons to Brus- 
sels, 285 



Route from Mons to Ostend, 
308 

Route from Paris to Brus- 
sels, 316 

Route from Helvoetsluys to 
Rotterdam, 94 

Rouvy, 331 

Rouvegny, 331 

Roveen, 184 

Royeglise, 324 

Roye, 324 

Roy, 283 

Ruillon, 266 

Ruin en , 184 

Rumilly, 327 

Rupell (river) 218 

Ruremond, 245 

Russel, 175 

Ryen, 202 

Rymps, 240 

Rysen, 185 

Ryswyk, 118 



Saardam, where Peter the 
Great worked as a ship- 
wright, and afterwards 
discovered, his behaviour 
on that occasion, he after- 
wards came to England, 
and worked in the dock- 
yard at Deptford, not 
Woolwich, as mentioned 
by mistake in the body of 
the work, 1 54 

Sacy le Grand, 322 

Sacy le Petit, 322 

Saint Christ, 325 

Saint Fceillien, 285 
* Saint Gillis, 287 



Saint Peter's Leeuw, 287 
Saint Quentin, 326, 327 
Saint Sauve, 332 
Salle, 283 
Salm, 278 
Salvacourt, 281 
Sambes, 284 
Sart-Bernard, 284 
Sas-van-Ghent, 297 
Saulchoir, 331 
Sauvages, 267 
Saventhem, 234 
Schaerbeck, 234 
Schardam, 165 
Schelanckkout, 164 
Schelling (island of), 163 



2 H3 



354 



INDEX* 



Scheltens, 179 
Schenk, 198 
Schevelingy 121 
Schie (canal of), 97 
Schie (canal of), 116 
Schiedam, conveyance to, 
95, 97 

Schiedam, to Delft, Rotter- 
dam, and Amsterdam, 97 
Bois-le-duc, Breda, Dort, 
the Hague, Haarlem, 
Leyden, Middlebourg, 
and Utrecht, 97 

Schilt, 163 

Schodeck, 281 

Schoenberg (palace of), 224 

Schomar, 234 

Schoonhoven, 193, 195 

Schoore, 315 

Schowen (island of) t 1 14 

Sechelles (chateau of), 323 

Schyren, 278 

Scilles, 262 

Selayer (post-house), 263 
Semagne, 257 
Semps, 223 
Senenne, 266 
Senlis, 320 

Cathedral, recent battles, 

porcelainmauufactories, 

320 

Senonchamps, 281 
Sept- Fontaines, 311 
Serenville, 328 
Serning, 261 
Sevecote, 315 
Sibert, 281 
Sichem, 243 
Simpelvelt, 246 
Sleydrecht, 195 
Slooten, 177 
Sluse, 240 



Slype, 315 

Smetlende, 289 

Snaeskercke, 305, 315 

Sneek, or Snitz, 178 

Snellegem, 305 

South Beveland, 113 

Sorgvliet, 122 

Soetsdyke, 156 

Soignies (forest of), 230 

Soignies (village of), 286 

Sombref, 267 

Soyecourt, 325 

Spa, situation, celebrated for 
mineral waters, fire in 
1808, 275 
Puton spring, the Sauve- 
niere, the Geronstere 
& the Tonnelet springs, 
Vauxhall, amusements, 
276 

Cascade of Stabloo, &c. 
various amusements,the 
waters of Spa impreg- 
nated with carbonic 
acid gas, garden of the 
Capuchins, population, 
manufactures, &c. 277 
Cabinet of natural history, 
principal inns, 278 

Spankerken, 188 

Spiel-House, Amsterdam,l 45 

Spiennes, 271 

Spy, 267 

St. Adelin, 257 

St. Andries, 305 

St. Catherine Capelle, 315 

St. Christophe, 321 

St. Cruys, 301 

St. Denis, 318 

St. Georges, 324 

St. Ghierlach, 246 

St. Ghislain, 333 * 



INDEX. 



355 



St. Gilles, 324 

St. Heerwillems-Capelle, 315 
St, Hubert, his conduct, &c. 

282, 283 
St. Joosterton-Noode, 234 
St. Julieu-le-pauvre, 322 
St. Leger, 311, 325, 331 
St. Leonard, 320 
St. Mard, 324 
St. Martin Balatre, 267 
St, Martin Longueau, 322 
St. Maur, 323 
St. Nicholas, 299, 320 
St. Peters Capeile, 315 
St. Philip (island of), 114 
St. Pierre, 324, 239 
St. Servais, 267 
St. Severin, 261 
St. Stevens Woluwe, 234 
St. Symphorien, 271 
St. Trond(road of), 238 
St. Villers, 266 
St Vy, 320 
St. Waast, 271 
Stadt-House, Rotterdam, 99 



Stains, 319 

Statue of Erasmus, at Rot- 
terdam, 100 
Stavele, 314 

Stavelot, church and abbey, 

mineral spring:, 278 
Staveren, 177 
Steam Boats, 108 
Steene, 305, 315 
Steenbergen, 206 
SteenblocK, 223 
Steenwyk, 176 
Steinfort, 281 
Stockem, 244 
Straphorst, 184 
Strassen, 280 
Stroefkirk, 193 
Stroobos, 180, 181 
Strucht, 246 • 
Stuvekinskercke, 315 
Surviliiers, 320 
Susteren, 245 
Swartsluis, 175 
Sysseele, 301 



T. 



Tateler-Birden. 278 
Taulle, 323 
Tcharwoude, 165 
Templeux-la- Fosse, 326 
Temploux, 267 
Terbleyt, 246 

Ter-Goes, or Goes, in South 

Beveland, 113 
Ter-la-tf aye, 233 
Tertolen, 115 
Tervere, or Vere, 113 
Texel (the) 162 



Thain, 311 
Theux, 275 
Theve (river) 320 
Thiel, 195, 196 
Thiensies, 285 
Thiers, 320 
Thijant, 331 
Thillay, 319 
Thimister, 255 
Tholen (island of), 115 
Thomas aKempis (residence 
of), 173 



356 



INDEX. 



Thoreton, 218 
Thuel, 196 

Thuilberg, or Telburg, 202 
Thun Y Eveque, 330 
Thun St. Martin, 330 
Tileur, 261 
Tilloloy, 323, 324 
Tindal, suffered martyrdom 

at Vilvorde, 223 
Tirlemont, 236 
Tolen, 115 

Tongres, or Tongeren, on 
the Jecker (description of), 
239 

Tongrines, 267 
Tontiingen, 28 L 



Tourcoing, 312 
Tournay, 310 

Cathedral, abbey, St. Mar- 
tin, manufactures, 310 
Royal college, hotels, &c. 
311 

Trazegnies, 270 
Treks chuit, the, general de- 
scription of, 106 
Trieviere, 271 
Trimont, 309 
Trith-Saint-Leger, 331 
Tubize, 286 
Tuhange, 261 
Turnhout, 205 
Twickeloo, 185 



u. 



Udentout, 202 
Uries, 134 

Utrecht, situation, canals, 
the mall, rums of the 
cathedral, 169 



University of Utrecht, 
town-house, inns and 
conveyances, 170, 189, 
191 



V. 



Vaels, 247 
Val, 261 

V r alenciennes,foundation,33 1 
Strength of the place, siege, 
grand square, manufac- 
tures, population, thea- 
tre, 332 

Valkenburg, 246 

Valkenhof (battle ofatNime- 
guen), 197 

Val -Saint-Lambert, 261 

Vandelant, 319 

Varik, 196 

Varssenare, 305 

Vaucelles (abbey of), 327 

Vawssoir, 323 



Vaux, 257 

Vecht (river of), 175—184 
Vecywreyd, 287 
Veere, or Tervere, 113 
Velaines, 284 
Velde, 187 
Velp, 188 

Velp (river of), 236 

Veluwe, 188 

Vemars, 320 

Vendhuille, 327 

Tunnel of the canal finish- 
ed by Napoleon, 327 

Venloo, 245 

Verhuizen, 164 

Verpillieres, 324 



INDEX. 



357 



Vertus, 318 
Verviers, 256 
Vianen, 191, 192, 279 
Vigeron, 287 
Villeron, 320 
Villeroux, 281 
Villers Camel, 325 
Villers-Faucon, 326 
Villers Notre Dame, 309 
Villers-Saint-Amand, 309 
Villers St. Ghislain, 271 
Vilvert, 320 

Vilvorde (Tindal suffered 
martyrdom herein 1536), 
223 

Vilvorde to Brussels by ca- 
nal, 223 
Vinderhaute, 300 
Vlaemertinghe, 313 
Vlecken, 289 
Vlest, 287 



Vletighem, 240 
Vlieland (island of), 163 
Vlissengen, near Flushing* 
112 

Voitures and Cabriolets, 10 1 
Vollendam, 166 
Vollenhoven, 177 
Voordt, 239 
Vooni (island of), 94 
Vorschenborch, 223 
Voyage down ihe Rhine and 

Leek from Arnheim to 

Rotterdam, 190 
Voyage up the Waal from 

Rotterdam to Nimeguen, 

193 

Voyage to the Netherlands,87 
Voyage from the Helder to 

Amsterdam, 163 
Vugt, 202 



W. 



Waardenburg, 196 
Wacht, 244 
Waelhem, 219 
Waerloos, 219 
Waerschoot, 301 
Wageningen, 190 
Waha, 283 
Waillet, 284 
Walcheren, 111 
Walferdange, 278 
Waltzingen, 281 
Wamel, 197 
Wanach, 281 
Wandre, 271 
Wansfeldt, 186 
Warchin, 310 
Warcoign, 311 
Warge river, 278 



Waterloo (fields of), 230 
Wattiues, 309 
Wavrechiu, 330, 331 
Weerde, 223 
Wellington's Tree, 232 
Wepion, 266 
Weppel, 184 
Wertrycht, 236 
Wesep, 167 
Wesiu, 263 
Westerend-eiude, 163 
Westkercke, 305 
Westrem, 289 
Westvleteren, 314 
Westwezel, 207 
Wethem, 235 
Wevelghem, 312 
Weyler, 2^1 



358 



INDEX. 



Wezel, 189 
Wich, 332 
Wiel, 190 
Wierde, 284 

Wieringen (island of), 163 
Williamstadt, 206 
Wilre, 240 
Wilskercke, 315 
Winchoten, 181, 182 
Winsheim, 184 
Winxel, 235 
Wisembach, 281 
Witdam (port of), 166 



Wittem, 246 
Woerden, 159 

Wolfersdyk (island of), 114 
Wolfingen, 281 
Woudelghem, 300 
Worcum, or Waldercum,l78 
Woudrichem, or Worcum, 

195 
Wyk, 246 

Wyk.de Duerstede, supposed 
to be the ancient Batavo- 
durum, 191 

Wynsbergen, 202 



Y. 



Y (river of), 139 

Ylst, or list, 179 

Ypres, population, town- 
hall, cathedral, manufac- 
tures, 313 



Yssel (banks of), 173, 184, 
192 

Ysselslein, 192 



Zand, 162 
Zande, 315 
Zantvoord, 313 
Zealand (island of), 110 
Zellick, 288 
Zenewynen, 196 
Zerkegem, 305 
Zevener, 189 
Zierikzee, 114 
Ziest, 156 
Zillebeke, 313 
Zoltcamp (fort of), 181 



Zoom (river of) , 506 
Zoonebeke, 313 
Zoutenay, 315 
Zuidbrcck, 182 
Zullen, 168 

Zutphen,-or Zuphen, 186 
Zutphen, attack of, by 

Toledo, 186, 187, 189 
Zuyder Haaks (sand-banks), 

162 

Zuyder-Zee, 163 
Zwoll, 173, 181, 184 



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